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TO 

JOHN JORDAN, Jr., Esq. 

OF 

RESPECT AND ESTEEM. 

(iii) 



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AMONG 



THE INDIANS. 



EIGHT YEAllS IN THE FAR WEST: 



1858— 18SS 



EMBRACING SKETCHES OF 



MONTANA AND SALT LAKE, 



BY 

HENRY A. BOLLER. 



PHILADELPHIA: 
T. ELLWOOD ZELL. 

1868. 



i''S'^4- 



^Lp "•>-/■ 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1867, by 
T. ELLWOOD ZELL, 

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the 
Eastern Distri^ct of Pennsylvania. 









rf. "^ > i 




PREFACE. 



rilHE following pages have been written from a jour- 
1 nal and notes kept during my residence of eight 
years in the Far West. I have endeavored to narrate 
truthfully, and without exaggeration, only such inci- 
dents as fell under my personal observation, and also 
to portray faithfully Indian life in its home aspect. 

At the present time, when the Indian is being held 
up before the world as an incarnate fiend, it is but fair 
that his redeeming qualities should likcAvise be recorded. 

I shall ever look back upon the years spent in the 
Indian country as among the pleasantest of my life, 
and if in all my dealings with white men I had found 
the same sense of honor that characterized my " savage '^ 
friends, my appreciation of human nature would be 
much higher. 

Philadelphia, July^ 1867. 

(yii) 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

PAGB 

The Great West — Fur Trade — Navigation of the Missouri — 

The First Steamboat, 17 



CHAPTER II. 

St. Louis — Scenes at Starting — Arrival among the Sioux — 
Council — More Indians — Fort Pierre — Stopped by Yanc- 
tohwahs — Village of the Riccarees, ..... 22 

CHAPTER III. 

Old Mandan Village — A Speck of War — Minnetarees or Gros 
Ventres — Scenery — A Hunting-Camp — Meet with Assin- 
niboines — Indian and Squaw on their Bridal Trip — Elk 
Shot — Tortuous Course of the Missouri — Fort William — 
Mouth of the Yellowstone — Fort Union — Return to Fort 
Atkinson, . . ' 36 

CHAPTER IV. 

Every-day Life in the Indian Country — Supper — Sleeping — 
"Voices of the Night " — Morning in the Indian Camp — 
Gros Ventres Celebrities — An Indian Politician, . . 48 

(ix) 



CONTENTS . 



CHAPTER V. 

PAGE 

Evening — Sports and Pastimes — A Practical Joke — An 
Indian Warrior — Indian Dandies — Novel Equitation — 
Horse-Race — Dogs — Bewailing the Dead — A Love-Ditty — 
Splendor of a Midsummer's Night, . . . . .60 



CHAPTER VI. 

Description of a Trading-Post — Domestic Economy — BuflFalo ! — 
Bull-Boats — Departure of the Indian Hunters — The 
" Surround " — " Making Medicine," . . . .72 



CHAPTER VII. 

Return of a War-Party — Songs of Triumph — Dances — Ad- 
ventures of the War-Party — Chivalry in Ambush — An 
Indian Medico — Doctor E-ten-ah-pen-ah — Black Mail, . 82 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Going to <<Nickaway" — A Prudent General — Affairs at the 
Village — Sioux About — Ludicrous Rage of a Fat Indian — 
The Panic — Retreat — The Dry-Pumpkin's Harangue — 
His Warlike Antecedents — Cause of the Alarm Explained, 91 

CHAPTER IX. 

The Mandans make their Great Bull-Medicine — The Invoca- 
tion—The Medicine Lodge — The Bull-Dance— The Tor- 
tures — Diversions of the Villagers — Indian Religion, . 100 

CHAPTER X. 

War's Alarums — Panic among the Squaws — The Fort In- 
vaded—A Mixed-up State of Affairs —"All's Well," . 112 



CONTENTS. XI 



CHAPTER XI. 

PAGE 

Hunting — Harvesting Corn — Drudgery of the Squaws — As- 
sinniboines Arrive — Journey to their Camp — Incidents 
by the Way — Gambling — Troubles of a Lame Assinni- 
boine — Squaw murders her Child — Buffalo Bull killed — 
Prairie Delicacies — Wild Fowl — A Fairy Dell — Camp 
Discovered — Arrival, ....... 117 

CHAPTER XII. 

Scenes in Camp — Feast — Council — Trade — On the Home- 
ward Trail — Desolate Country — Hostile "Signs" — In- 
dian Craft — The Comet — Return to the Post — Battle 
with the Sioux — The Doctor carried in a Blanket, . . 133 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Goose-Medicine — Gros Ventres return from the Rees — Ar- 
rival of Oncpapas and Blackfeet Sioux — Jealousies — 
Scarcity of Meat in Camp — Changing Face of Nature, . 147 

CHAPTER XIV. 

First Snow — Poor Living — Trading-Party of Sioux — Bil- 
liards — Death of the Four-Bear's Squaw — Preparations 
for the Sioux Trade — Building Houses — Conflicting Ru- 
mors — Final Departure of the Sioux — Rest, . . . 157 

CHAPTER XV. 

Indian Summer — Going to Winter-Quarters — Magnificent 
Scenery — The Camp Moving — Incidents on the Way — A 
Fat Equestrian — A Jovial Party, 170 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Pierre Garreau — L'eau-qui-mont — Building Winter-Houses — 
Return to the Fort, 181 



Xll CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

PAGE 

Return to Camp — A "Pouderie" — Life in the Winter Camp — 
Severe Toil of the Squaws — Firewood — Billiards — 
Dances — Cottonwood Bark for Horse-Feed, . . . 189 

* CHAPTER XVIII. 

Wolf-Trapping at the Fort — A New Invention — Ludicrous 
Incident — Sports in Winter — A "Sell" — Hunting Adven- 
ture — Starvation Among the Sioux — Origin of the Feud 
between the Gros Ventres and Sioux — Elk Medicine, . 200 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Indians make "Medicine to bring the Buffalo" — Potency of 
Dreams — Orders of the Soldiers — A Large Family — 
White-Cow Band — Strong Medicine — A Bull in Camp! — 
Triumphant Dance of the White-Cows — "Plenty of 
Buffalo ! " 212 

CHAPTER XX. 

Buffalo Hunt in the Snow — Butchering — Feasting — Delica- 
cies — Deadly Effects of the Indian Arrow — Accidents — 
Sweat-Houses — Curing Tongues, . . . . . 224 

CHAPTER XXI. 

My Abode in the Winter Camp — Making Meat — My Com- 
rade, the Bobtail-Wolf — His Lessons in the Language — 
Honesty of the Gros Ventres — Their Past History — Mat- 
rimonial — Ravages of the Small-Pox — Affecting Incident, 238 

CHAPTER XXII. 

Startling News! — The three G^rreaus killed — Bodies Re- 
covered — Dangerous Trip — Christmas in Camp — Grand 
Feast — Approach a Bull — Narrow Escape, . . . 245 



CONTENTS. Xlll 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

PAGE 

Eclipse of the Moon — Indian Ideas — Thunder, Lightning, 
and Rain — Primitive Ways — Express Arrives — Travel in 
a "Pouderie" — Tedious Trip — Lame Horse — Return to 
Post, 254 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

BufiFalo Hamstrung by Wolves — Camp begins to Break Up — 
Horses Stolen — Mandan killed in Camp by the Sioux — 
Daring Escape — An Indian Heroine — A Season of Peril, 266 



CHAPTER XXV. 

Skin Lodges— Narrow Escape from a War-Party — Final 
Breaking Up of the Winter Camp — Scenes on the Road — 
Home Again — End of the Winter Hunt, .... 274 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

Spring — ''Making Packs" — Dancing — Buffalo Everywhere — 
Medicine Pictures — Assinniboines on the War-Path — A 
Successful Partisan — Kindling the War-Spirit — Grim 
Meeting of Hostile Indians — Wild Fowl — Breaking Up 
of the Ice — Exciting Scenes, 281 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

Arrival of the Spring Express — Cold Swim — Windg^ — On the 
War-Path — Horses Stolen — Dressing Robes — Competi- 
tion — Blackfoot Chieftain — Prairies on Fire — Dense 
Smoke — Dance of the Calumet, 296 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 
• 

The Sioux Trade — Return of a Defeated War-Party — More 

Reverses — Fortitude — Indian Belief — Arrival of Crows, 309 

2 



XIV CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

PAGE 

The Fort Completed — Raise the American Flag — Warriors 

Return in Triumph — Rejoicings — Scalp Dance, . . 316 



CHAPTER XXX. 

June Rise — Indian Talk — "Medicine" — The Hermit of the 
Black Hills — Mandans leave for their Old Village — Wolf 
Hunt — Crows Arrive — Their Thieving Propensities — Our 
Horses lost — Crows depart for the Wind River Moun- 
tains, .320 

CHAPTER XXXI. 



330 



An Indian Musician — Trip to the Rees — Chased by a War- 
Party — Close Quarters — A Ride for Life — Indian Strat- 
egy, 

CHAPTER XXXII. 

False Alarms — "The Steamboat" — Annual Carnival — Quiet 

Once More — Father De Smet, 337 

CHAPTER XXXIII. 

Winter- Quarters — No Traders in Camp — A Friend in Need — 
Serious DiflBculty with the Riccarees — Almost a Mas- 
sacre — Homoeopathy vs. Strychnine — Bad Influence of 
an Unprincipled White Man, 344 

CHAPTER XXXIV. 

Off for the "Mountains" — The Border — Condition of Af- 
fairs — Indian Troubles — Murder of Friendly Indians — 
Deserted Village — Old Memories — Among the Gros Ven- 
tres — Old Friends — Horses Stolen by the Sioux, . . 354 



CONTENTS. XV 



CHAPTER XXXV. 

PAGE 

Trouble Ahead — The Steamboats Attacked by Sioux — Strange 
Proceedings — Deck-Hands Massacred — Burial — Avenged — 
Old Fort William — Fort Union, 363 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 

Fort Union as it was — Scenery — A Social Circle — Danger- 
ous Hunting-Grounds — Grizzly Bears — Indians Around — 
Horses Stolen — In a Bad Predicament — Afoot! . . 870 

CHAPTER XXXVII. 

Caught Napping — The Fort Surprised — Narrow Escape — 
Gros Ventres of the Prairie — Annuities Demanded — In- 
dian Agents — Obtain Horses — Leave the Indian Coun- 
try — Arrive at the Gold Mines of Montana, . . . 379 

CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

Mining Camps — "Road Agents"— A Convivial Gathering — 
Innocent Pastimes — The Climax — The Vigilance Com- 
mittee — The Finale — Prosperous Times — Salt Lake 
City, 388 

CHAPTER XXXIX 

The Mormons — Brigham Young — A Profitable Religion — • 
The Salt Lake House — Getting over a Difficulty — The 
Gentile Club — Evidences of Increasing Prosperity, . . 395 

CHAPTER XL. 

Appearance of Salt Lake City -^Commercial Advantages — 
Mormon Poetry — Grand Temple — Mormon Sermons — 
Brigham Young — Geo. A. Smith — Heber C. Kimball — 
A Specimen of Mormon Preaching, ..... 399 



Xvi CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XLI. 

PAGE 

The "Presidency" on their Travels — The Prophet's Barber — 
An Evening with Presidents Young and Kimball — Future 
of Mormonism — "What the Mormons have done — They 
are entitled to Great Praise — Overland Stage — Drivers 
and Attaches — Comforts of "Home Stations"— Driving 
Mules — Chain Whips — Mustang Horses — Wonderful En- 
durance of a Colt, . .404 

CHAPTER XLII. 

Past and Present — Changes — Palmy Days of Alder-Gulch — 
Fort Benton — Fort Union — Among the Gros Ventres once 
More — Sad Changes — Farewell to the Indian Country — 
Down the River — Glimpses of Civilization — Arrival at 
Saint Louis — End of my Wanderings, . . . .411 

CHAPTER XLIII. 
The Indian Question, 418 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 



CHAPTER I. 

THE GREAT WEST — FUR TRADE — NAVIGATION OF THE MIS- 
SOURI — THE FIRST STEAMBOAT. 

AT no period in its history has the Great West at- 
tracted such universal interest as the present. 
From the discoveiy of gold on the Pacific coast to 
the magnificent enterprises which are now being 
inaugurated, the changes have succeeded each other 
with wonderful rapidity. The daring of the Pio- 
neers who first explored the fastnesses of the Rocky 
Mountains, the toilsome emigration to Oregon and 
California, the constantly increasing commerce of 
the plains, the telegraph, the daily mail stage, and 
now, last and greatest, the Pacific Railroad; — all 
these changes in an ordinary lifetime ! 

Of the various great fur companies that formerly 
thrived and flourished, with their wild array of re- 
tainers, the Hudson's P)ay alone remains, and is 
2* B (17) 



18 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

every year becoming more and more circumscribed 
in its sphere of action. It is also the oldest, having 
been chartered in 1670 by Charles the Second, and 
granted almost unlimited powers. The Northwest 
Company, established in 1783, was for a time a most 
formidable rival. !N^ext came the Mackinaw Com- 
pany, who claimed the trade of the country watered 
by the Mississippi and its tributary streams; the 
E-ocky Mountain Fur Company in 1808, with its 
headquarters at St. Louis ; and the American Fur 
Company in 1809, under the auspices of John 
Jacob Astor. 

Besides these, there were minor associations and 
numerous individual traders. 

St. Louis, formerly a frontier village, inhabited 
principally by French Creoles, and a general ren- 
dezvous for traders and trappers, whence they started 
on their long and perilous journeys, is now the lead- 
ing city in the Mississippi Valley. The Mackinaw 
boat has given place to the steamboat ; the cordelle, 
or towing-line, has been superseded by the steam- 
engine. 

There are yet voyageurs living who have been on 
the cordelle from Independence, Missouri, to Fort 
Benton, a distance of nearly three thousand miles. 
The most incessant and persevering toil was neces- 
sary to stem the turbulent current, and the hardy 



THE FIRST STEAMBOAT. 19 

voyageurs never hesitated for a moment to plunge 
into the water, reckless of heat or cold, when the 
shifting channel made it necessary to cross from 
point to point. In 1832 the American Fur Com- 
pany ascended with a steamboat as high as Fort 
Union, six miles above the mouth of the Yellow- 
stone. This was the second grand link in the chain 
of events. The cordelle was now reduced to seven 
hundred miles, that being the distance between Fort 
Union and the Blackfoot Post. For a number of 
years the Fur Company's steamboat regularly made 
its annual trip, and the subject of navigating the 
upper river was as often talked of. 

In 1850 the El Paso ascended without difficulty 
as high as the ''Round Butte," a distance of perhaps 
three hundred miles. In the summer of 1859 the 
Fur Company sent up, in addition to their annual 
steamer, a small stern-wheel boat, called the Chip- 
pewa, drawing very little water, expressly to make 
the attempt,* which was entirely successful ; and to 
Mr. Charles P. Chouteau, of the American Fur Com- 
pany, and Captain John B. La Barge, of the Chip- 
pewa, belongs the credit of proving that the Mis- 
souri Elver was navigable by steam to within a few 
miles of the Great Falls. 

The cordelle was a memory of the past ; a new 
era in the history of the Great "West had been in- 



20 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

augurated, whose effects were not apparent, how- 
ever, until several years later. 

The American Fur Company (Upper Missouri 
Outfit) held their sway for many years. During most 
of the time they had more or less opposition, prin- 
cipally from traders who had been at some time or 
other in their employ. These traders were usually 
well sustained by the Indians, who fully appreciated 
the advantages to be gained from competition. In 
1860 this competing interest was bought out by the 
American Fur Company, with the expectation of 
monopolizing the entire trade of the Missouri, as in 
the early days. 

In 1866 they retired from the field they had so 
long occupied, and in which such striking changes 
were going on. Up to 1864 the Fur Company's 
steamers were the only ones that ascended the river. 
In that year Montana became the grand centre of 
attraction, and a number of steamboats went up, 
under individual auspices, loaded with passengers 
and freight. Each succeeding year this number 
increased, until, in 1867, over forty steamboats 
ascended the Missouri. 

Military Posts have been established at various 
points on the river; the Indian tribes are in a state 
of anarchy, the quiet seclusion of the Indian country 
is forever destroyed, and the reign of the fur trader 
virtually at an end. 



CHANGES GOING ON. 21 

When the toils and sufferings of the pioneer ex- 
plorers of the Missouri River and the trackless wil- 
derness are compared with the steady progress of 
improvement, sometimes scarcely perceptible at first, 
but increasing with giant strides as the years roll 
round, who will not unhesitatingly admit that 

" Westward the star of empire takes its way " ? 



CHAPTER II. 

ST. LOUIS — SCENES AT STARTING — ARRIVAL AMONG THE 

SIOUX COUNCIL MORE INDIANS — FORT PIERRE 

STOPPED BY YANCTOHWAHS — VILLAGE OF THE RICCAREES. 

ri^HE annual departure of tlie Fur Company's 
JL steamboat from St. Louis, with supplies for the 
various trading-posts on the Upper Missouri and its 
tributaries, was an event that formerly excited great 
interest. Crowds thronged the levee, watching the 
bustle to and fro, and the last hurried preparations 
for starting. Black volumes of smoke pour from 
the tall chimneys, the waste steam escapes with a 
hoarse roar, and a few preliminary turns of the 
wheels add to the fast increasing excitement. Cu- 
riosity-seekers crowd the cabin, peering into every 
nook and corner, as if they expected to discover 
some phantom of the wilderness, and listen eagerly 
to the conversation between the members of the 
Fur Company and their friends. 

Here is the well-known Col. Ilobert Campbell, 
himself a ''mountaineer" in the early days of the 
Fur Trade; and although he has not taken an 

(22) 



SCENES AT STARTING. 23 

active part for many years, he still feels that inter- 
est in seeing the Expedition off, which is natural to 
any one who has shared in the perils and excite- 
ment of frontier life. The Colonel is talking to 
Indian Agent Vanghan and Malcolm Clark, the 
latter a veteran of over twenty years' experience, 
and thoroughly versed in all the wiles and mysteries 
of Indian trading. Clark wears a blue blanket 
capote, and displays a tobacco-sack of scarlet cloth 
beautifully garnished with beads, the handiwork of 
his Blackfoot wife. 

At length the order is given in sharp, decided 
tones, to '' clear the boat." The rush and confu- 
sion are at their height ; farewells are heartily ex- 
changed, and the deck-hands haul in the heavy 
stages. On the hurricane-deck the Captain is call- 
ing the roll of his voyageurs, who are singing, or 
rather shouting, their Canadian boat-songs with 
greater energy than music. Some few stragglers 
hurry aboard at the last moment, fearful of beino- 
left, carrying a "shooting-iron " in one hand, and a 
mysterious black bottle in the other. Much amuse- 
ment is created among the voyageurs by the frmt- 
less attempts of a couple of landlords to find delin- 
quent boarders who have been snugly hid away by 
their comrades, and intend to remain so until under 
weigh, leaving their too confiding hosts to mourn 
over hopes departed. 



24 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

The last hawser is at length cast loose, and the 
last plank drawn in, thereby compelling the luckless 
Bonifaces to leap ashore, up to their knees in water, 
to the delight and amusement of the lookers-on; 
and, after slowly swinging out into the stream, on 
the morning of May 23d, 1858, the good steamboat 
Twilight^ Captain John Shaw, commenced her long 
mountain trip. 

The voyage up the river was unmarked by any 
incident worthy of notice until we had passed be- 
yond the confines of civilization and entered the 
borders of the Sioux country, more than twelve 
hundred miles above St. Louis. Here we met the 
first large body of Indians, a band of Yanktons, who 
were encamped, awaiting the arrival of their annui- 
ties, which were on board of the Twilight, in charge 
of the Agent, Col. Redfield. 

This band of Yanktons had recently, through a 
delegation sent to Washington, sold a portion of 
their beautiful country, Dacotah, to the United 
States, reserving a tract on which Government 
bound itself to establish a farm and school for their 
benefit. > 

The white skin lodges scattered over the broad 
green prairie, the horses feeding in all directions, 
and the gay dresses of the Indians, on the river's 
bank, formed a wild and picturesque scene. As we 



ARRIVE AMONG THE SIOUX. 25 

neared the camp, firing salutes meanwhile from the 
cannon on board, men, women, and children flocked 
down to the water's edge to witness the landing of 
the "Fire Canoe." 

The squaws, however, ^nerally remained in the 
background, although the young and pretty ones, 
with their cheeks tinged with vermilion, w^ere, like 
their sisters of a lighter hue, by no means averse to 
displaying their charms, or displeased with the at- 
tention, they excited. The old ones, on the con- 
trary, their scant leathern dresses blackened and 
greasy with age and dirt, remained completely in 
the rear, scolding almost incessantly at the dogs and 
children. 

None of the squaws with this band would have 

stood for types of that female beauty which has its 

existence only in the imagination of the novelist; 

some of the old ones, worn out by age and hard 

work, were surely fit living representations of 

Egyptian mummies. The boys and dogs ran about, 

and, like boys and dogs everywhere else, contrived 

to be constantly in the way. The urchins were 

mostly naked, or at best wore a breechcloth only, 

and carried small bows with blunt arrows. As 

soon as the landing was efifected. Col. Redfield 

stepped ashore, when the chiefs and principal men 

hastened to grasp him by the handj uttering the 
3 



26 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

universal salutation, '^How!" The cabin having 
been previously arranged, by removing the tables 
and placing a semicircle of chairs, the chiefs were 
at once formally invited on board. The Council 
made slow progress, like most Indian *' talks," 
during which the pipe was industriously circulated. 
The Agent, through his interpreter, addressed them 
at length, urging them to " love their enemies " and 
obey the wishes of their Great Father, the Presi- 
dent; and this advice, though well meant, would 
doubtless be more honored in the breach than the 
observance. It was difficult to satisfy the Indians 
about their presents, and they would not consent to 
receive them until they had gone on shore and 
counted the bales and boxes. Then, -finding that 
the number agreed with what their Agent had told 
them, they returned to continue the Council. 

The cabin of the Tvrilight presented an unusual 
appearance. The group of Indians comprised the 
dignitaries of the band, dressed and painted after 
their own wild fashion. A handsome pipe of red 
stone, filled with "chash-hash-ash," or inner bark 
of the red willow, passed from one to another almost 
without interruption, and its fragrant odor pervaded 
the entire apartment. During the council, a few 
visitors were permitted 'to come on board; they 
peered into every nook and corner, and nothing 



COUNCIL. 27 

seemed to escape their prying glances. Those on 
shore indulged freely in remarks upon the deliber- 
ations of their chiefs; and among other pleasant 
suggestions, one fellow coolly proposed a general 
scalping of the whites ! Although this humane 
project seemed to meet with universal favor, it was 
deemed inexpedient for the present. At the close 
of the council the Agent presented the two prin- 
cipal chiefs with large silver medals, bearing the 
likeness of their Great Father, President Buchanan, 
saying, as he did so, " This is made of the real stufi'," 
which information was doubtless highly gratifying 
to two such profound judges of the purity of metals 
in general, and silver in particular, as "He-who- 
strikes-the-Rees " and the "Little Crow." After- 
wards he presented the head chief (Strike-the-Rees) 
with a spy-glass of inferior quality, and a box of 
India-rubber balls ; the latter '^for his boys," said 
the Agent, bouncing one. The expression on the 
Indian's countenance, when he received these muni- 
ficent gifts, was one of mingled amusement and 
contempt. 

The Council concluded with a feast, consisting of 
"black medicine" (coffee) and hard bread. The 
decks were then cleared, and the expedition once 
more proceeded on its way. 

The next excitement was caused, a few days later, 



28 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

by a party of twenty-five or thirty mounted Sioux, 
on tlie Dacotah side, who ordered us to stop and 
land. Their commands not being complied with, 
they began firing, but without effect, as the distance 
was too great. Another party now showed them- 
selves on the ITebraska side, and as the boat kept 
steadily on her way, they too fired, but with like 
result. Our Dacotah friends, finding their efforts to 
stop us unavailing, rode furiously off, with gleaming 
weapons and fluttering pennons, forming a striking 
picture as their outlines became sharply defined 
against the clear, blue sky, while cresting the hills 
in their wdld gallop. 

A few miles farther on, where the channel ran 
close in shore, a crackling of branches was heardj 
and the Indians appeared on the bank, demanding 
a talk with the Agent. Making a merit of neces- 
sity, the boat landed, and Col. Eedfield, with Zephyr 
his interpreter, went ashore. The Indians seemed 
greatly excited by their chase after the boat, and 
Medicine Cow, the chief, gave the Agent the com- 
forting assurance that he would get (as the in- 
terpreter expressed it) at Fort Pierre, where several 
thousands of the different bands of the great Sioux 
nation were encamped, impatiently awaiting their 
annuities. After a present of tobacco and pro- 
visions, the boat was permitted to move on. 



FORTPIERRE. 29 

The Indians in this party were splendid-looking 
men, well armed and equipped. 

It was at the close of a beautiful day in June 
when we laid up in sight of Fort Pierre, the first 
trading-post on the river. All that night our ears 
were greeted with the unaccustomed sound of the 
wolves howling in every direction. Fort Pierre was 
one of the largest posts in the Indian country, and 
some years ago was the centre of a flourishing trade 
with the Sioux, which has since greatly fallen oiF, 
many of them trading on the Platte and at the posts 
on the upper Missouri with the Eees and Gros Ven- 
tres, having patched up a very convenient treaty 
with their old enemies. The Indians here assem- 
bled belonged principally to the Minnecongew, Two 
Kettle, and Yanc-toh-wah bands of the Sioux. 
Hundreds of lodges were pitched in the vicinity of 
the fort, and bands of horses were feeding over the 
prairie. 

Some of the squaws, especiall}^ those belonging 
to the Two Kettle band, were quite prepossessing in 
their appearance. One in particular excited uni- 
versal admiration : she wore a dress made from the 
skin of the big-horn, tanned soft and white, and 
lavishly embroidered with beads, and managed the 
spirited American horse upon which she was 
mounted with a dashing grace worthy of a Di 
Vernon. 

3* 



30 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

The presents for each band were placed in sepa- 
rate piles ; and immediately upon the termination 
of the council, most of the Indians hurried off to 
their respective camps, whence they quickly re- 
turned, leading horses harnessed to travees, and 
upon these primitive vehicles the goods were speed- 
ily dragged away to be distributed by the chiefs at 
their leisure. These travees are of the simplest 
possible construction, being merely two poles tied 
together at one end and fastened to the pack-saddle, 
the remaining ends being left to trail on either side. 
A couple of stretchers are lashed behind the horse 
at suitable distances, to which is secured a network 
of raw hide, and it is then ready for use. A horse 
will draw from two hundred and fifty to three hun- 
dred pounds weight upon one of them, and the 
lodge, household utensils, dried meat, children, and 
puppies are usually transported in this way. Smaller 
ones are made for the benefit of the dogs, who are 
thus unwillingly compelled to make themselves 
useful. 

After leaving Fort Pierre no incident occurred 
worthy of notice until the afternoon of the fourth 
day, when several horsemen appeared on a high 
bluff, close under which the boat would have to pass. 
Warrior after warrior came dashing up at full speed, 
until fifteen or twenty dark forms stood out against 
the sky. 



STOPPED BY YANCTOHWAHS. 31 

Preparations were made to land, seeing which, the 
Indians turned their ponies loose, and remained quiet 
and impassive. This was a portion of Big Head's 
band of Yanc-toh-wahs ; the camp itself was out of 
sight beyond a distant range of hills. A long, dark 
line of warriors, riding abreast, emerged from an 
intervening roll of the prairie, and with full pomp 
and panoply advanced to meet us, headed by the 
famous chieftain Big Head in person. All were 
dressed in shirts of deerskin, profusely decorated 
with scalp-locks, stained horsehair, and devices 
worked in porcupine-quills and beads. War eagle- 
feathers were fastened in their hair, and pennons of 
scarlet cloth fluttered from the lances. They were 
armed cap-a-pie with shields, bows and arrows, and 
firearms, while the tomahawk and scalping-knife 
were indispensable accompaniments. Some wore 
necklaces formed of the claws of the grizzly bear, 
highly prized as trophies and ornaments. Onward 
they came, firing their guns into the air, with whoops 
and yells, and finally halted about fifty yards from 
where the Agent and his interpreter stood. Then 
dismounting, they seated themselves in a line, hold- 
ing their horses behind them by their lariats. Big 
Head and his principal chiefs advancing, shook 
hands haughtily with the Agent, and conducted 
themselves in an insolent and overbearing manner. 



32 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

In reply to the question, why they had fired off their 
guns as they approached, the chief said that when 
they met friends on the prairie they met them with 
empty guns. As they had carefully reloaded, the 
only inference to be drawn from this remark was, 
that they considered us in the light of possible foes. 
"We all breathed more freely when the good Twi- 
light was once more breasting the swift current of 
the Missouri, and we had left Big Head and his 
grim warriors far in our rear. 

IN^one of the old mountaineers went ashore on this 
occasion, but had their rifles ready for instant use, 
well knowing the treacherous nature of this band. 
Malcolm Clark remarked to me that we were very 
fortunate in getting off without a difficulty, as they 
were evidently ripe for mischief. 

Early in the morning of the 19th of June we 
arrived at the village of the Riccarees. Unlike the 
Sioux, who are always roaming, the Rees have a 
permanent settlement, which they occupy during the 
spring and summer, moving away in the fall to some 
well timbered point where there are good indica- 
tions of game and abundance of grass for their 
horses. Here, securely sheltered from the fierce 
wintry winds, they devote themselves to the chase, 
dressing furs, and drying meat to serve them when 
hunting becomes dangerous and difficult from the 



VILLAGE OF THE RICCAREES. 33 

breaking up of the rivers and the forays of their 
enemies. They cultivate large fields of corn, and 
also pumpkins and squashes, which agreeably vary 
their diet of bufiklo-meat. These summer lodges 
are large and covered with dirt, forming a great con- 
trast to the white conical ones of the Sioux. 

Both the trading-posts presented rather a dilapi- 
dated appearance, owing to the great scarcity of 
timber and the danger of sending their men to 
secure a supply from a distance. Fort Clark, (so 
named after the renowned explorer of the Missouri,) 
the post of the American Fur Company, was built 
on the lower side of the village ; and about three 
hundred yards from it. Fort Primeau, the post of 
the Opposition Company. This fort took its name 
from Mr. Charles Primeau, one of the oldest and 
best of the mountain traders. Both the forts, as 
well as the village itself, were completely infested 
with rats, to the discomfort and annoyance of all the 
inhabitants, both white and red. These pests had 
been an importation from one of the Company's 
steamboats years before, and had multiplied to such 
an alarming extent that the Indians, who at first 
felt themselves particularly favored above their 
n-eighbors by the acquisition, had abundant reason 
to change their opinion. 

The Piccarees were savage-looking Indians, and 



34 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

more sullen and insolent than any we had yet met. 
The men had villanous countenances, which, in 
many cases, were disfigured by the loss of an eye, 
either from accident or disease. Sore and inflamed 
eyes are very common among them, owing to their 
filthy habits and smoky lodges. 

Out on the prairie, beyond the village, were circles 
of human skulls, with two medicine poles in the 
centre of each, bearing propitiatory oflerings to the 
Great Spirit. 

The dead, dressed in their best garments, are laid 
on scafifolds in the open air, and after they decay 
and fall to pieces, the skulls are arranged in circles, 
the bones collected and buried, and the mounds sur- 
mounted with a bufifalo skull. 

While strolling about with several of the party, 
we heard shooting in the direction of the boat, and 
rapidly retraced our steps. We found, upon reach- 
ing the landing, that the Indians had attempted to 
come on board in numbers, and upon being re- 
pulsed, fired their guns into the air in token of their 
anger, and sullenly retired to the village, where they 
held an excited talk among themselves. The Agent 
having some business at Fort Clark, was proceeding 
thither, alone and unarmed, when a well-known 
rascal — the White-faced Bear — ran up to him and 
discharged his gun into the ground, close by his 



VILLAGE OF THE RICCAREES. 35 

feet. The only notice taken of this outrage was an 
involuntary jump, and the Agent continued his 
walk without further molestation. 

After a tedious delay the Council finally came off. 
The chief White Parflesh was the principal speaker, 
and for a long time refused, in the name of his tribe, 
to take the annuities. The necessities of his people, 
however, and the tempting display of presents, over- 
came his scruples. The goods were soon put ashore, 
and speedily transported by the Indians to their 
village. 

Quite an addition was here made to our party in 
the shape of some eighteen Mandans, men, women, 
and children, who were desirous of rejoining their 
people at the Gros Ventres village, some sixty miles 
higher up. 

The various delays had consumed so much time 
that it was noon before we were ready to continue 
our voyage. 

As the boat would have to pass close under the 
high promontory upon which the village was built, 
some apprehension was felt as to the probability of 
our being attacked ; for an armed band of Riccarees 
was gathered there. The pilot-house had been pro- 
tected by heavy plankings before starting, but, hap- 
pily, the precaution was unnecessary: the Tvnlight 
swept majestically through the bend, and all thoughts 
of danger passed away. 



CHAPTEE III. 

OLD MANDAN VILLAGE — A SPECK OF WAR — MINNETAREES, 

OR GROS VENTRES — SCENERY A HUNTING-CAMP MEET 

WITH ASSINNIBOINES INDIAN AND SQUAW ON THEIR 

BRIDAL TRIP — ELK SHOT TORTUOUS COURSE OF THE 

MISSOURI — FORT WILLIAM — MOUTH OF THE YELLOW- 
STONE FORT UNION — RETURN TO FORT ATKINSON. 

NINE miles above the Eiccarees, at the mouth of 
Little Knife Eiver, was a small village of Man- 
dans. Most of the survivors of this nearly extinct 
tribe live with the Eees and Gros Ventres, but a few 
families still remained here to cultivate their old corn- 
fields, which, from present appearances, promised 
an abundant yield. 

At sundown, when we stopped to cut wood as 
usual, our Indians went out to look for game, but 
hastily returned, saying that they had discovered 
Sioux on horseback. This intelligence caused con- 
siderable alarm among them, and the whole party 
ascended to the hurricane deck, and were soon in 
battle-array. I was greatly amused at watching one 
of the Indians load his fusee. After a double hand- 

(36) 



MINNETAREES. 37 

ful of powder, he put in nine half-ounce balls, one 
upon another, with a large wad of red flannel be- 
tween each. The gun was literally loaded halfway 
up to the muzzle, and it seemed to me as if the 
safest place when fired off would have been directly 
in front. While the warriors kept watch on deck, 
the squaws voluntarily assisted the voyageurs in 
carrying heavy logs of wood on board, which had 
been previously chopped down and cut into con- 
venient lengths for transportation. 

The following morning witnessed our arrival at 
the village of the Minnetarees, or, as they are com- 
monly called, but without the slightest reason, Gros 
Ventres. 

The lodges were precisely like those of the Eees, 
and the village was similarly built upon a command- 
ing bluff, surrounded by a fine expanse of prairie, 
while the windings of the river could be traced for 
many miles. One side of the village was protected 
by the swift current of the Missouri, and the re- 
mainder by pickets, which made it perfectly secure 
against attack. 

Fort Atkinson, on the lower side, and Fort 
Berthold, on the upper, were the rival trading es- 
tablishments. As it was at the former of these that 
I made my home for several years, a full description 
will be reserved for another chapter. 



38 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

We found but very few Indians here ; in fact, 
scarcely any but the old people and children, the 
rest being away hunting, under the lead of IToc-pitts- 
ee-toh-pish, or Four-Bears, their principal chief. To 
land the supplies, and give Col. Redfield an oppor- 
tunity to hold the inevitable Council with his " red 
children," detained us several hours, but by after- 
noon we were again en route, and about dusk passed 
the mouth of the Little Missouri, at this season a 
stream of considerable magnitude. The next day 
we entered upon the Grand Detour, or Big Bend of 
the Missouri. This bend is nearly seventy miles 
around, and not more than eighteen across at the 
narrowest part ; it commences at Shell Creek and 
terminates at Knife River. Buffalo are usually 
found in great numbers in this region ; but as the 
"running" season had not yet commenced, none 
of the vast herds were on the river, and up to this 
time we had only seen a few bulls. The scenery 
from this point grows bolder and more imposing; 
ranges of towering clay bluff's of the most fantastic 
shapes, often resembling gigantic ruins, meet the 
eye. All colors are here depicted, from the darkest 
blue to a bright vermilion ; and when the rays of the 
sun light up their walls and towers, the effect is pic- 
turesque in the extreme, reminding one of castles 
in the old world. Many of these bluffs are hun- 



ADUSKYBRIDE. 39 

dreds of feet high, and so steep as to be inaccessible 
save to the big-horn or Eocky Mountain goat. 

About the middle of the bend we met the hunt- 
ing-band of Gros Ventres, who had not found any 
buffalo yet, and were in a starving condition, their 
main subsistence being upon roots and berries. 

The same evening we stopped a few minutes with 
a party of Assinniboines; their village of a hun- 
dred and fifty lodges was encamped close at hand. 
They were on their way to the Yellowstone to meet 
the rest of the nation and, receive their annuities. 

These Assinniboines seemed to be very poor, 
having but few horses, and depending almost 
entirely upon their dogs, which were very numerous, 
as their beasts of burden. Of course we had to stop 
with them a short time, after which we continued 
on, and, as it was a bright clear night, kept running 
until the moon went down. We gained here an 
accession to our party in the persons of an Indian 
and his squaw, evidently on their bridal trip, and 
most devoted in their attentions to each other, to the 
great amusement of the spectators. 

The following morning a gang of elk was discov- 
ered crossing the river ahead of the boat, but before 
we neared them they had disappeared in the forest, 
with the exception of a doe, which came trotting 
along utterly regardless of our proximity. The 



40 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

cause of her apparent boldness was soon explained 
by the fact that a fawn was seen swimming rapidly 
down stream, unable to climb the steep bank with 
the rest, and its mother was keeping up with it and 
guiding it until they should come to a place low 
enough for it to scramble out. The boat's course 
was altered so as to bring her close in shore, and our 
Indian, fitting an arrow to his bow, crouched down 
on the guards watching his opportunity. The elk, 
in its anxiety for its young one, had lost its usual 
timidity, and, instead of fleeing to the forest, came 
hesitatingly within a few 3'ards of us. The Indian's 
shaft now struck it deep in the shoulder, too far 
back, however, to take immediate effect, and the 
stricken animal, giving two or three convulsive 
bounds, dashed through the underbrush and was 
lost to view. The yawl, in the meantime, had been 
sent in pursuit of the fawn, and shortly returning 
with the little captive, comfortable quarters were 
provided for it on board. After this exciting little 
incident, a band of buffalo, the first we had seen on 
the trip, was discovered, barely distinguishable in 
the dim distance. 

Our Indian, who rejoiced in the title of the Son 
of the Pipe, was unremitting in his attentions to his 
little squaw, and never was lover more devoted to 
his fair mistress than was this dusky warrior to his 



SPLBNDIDSCENE. 41 

prairie bird. Their favorite haunt was in the shade 
of the pilot's house ; here they enjoyed themselves 
to their heart's content, and derived inexhaustible 
amusement from painting their swarthy counten- 
ances with vermilion in all the variations their vivid 
imaginations could devise. After one coat of paint 
had been laid on, they would mutually admire each 
other; then, upon due deliberation, would rub it off 
and try another fashion. 

A delightfully refreshing shower at the close of 
the hot and sultry day drove the lovers from their 
trysting-place, and soon after the boat stopped to 

wood 

Could a painter have transferred that scene to 
canvas, he would have made a glorious picture. 
The storm had passed over behind the forest, the 
heavy clouds formed a background, as if a sable cur- 
tain had been drawn across, while the golden beams 
of the setting sun threw into strong relief the figures 
of the men cutting down trees, forming a magnifi- 
cent contrast of light and shade. 

We were now on the confines of the Assinniboine 
country, and our expectations of meeting some of 
that nation were soon realized. A party of five 
Indians was discovered scrambling over the bluffs, 
evidently with the intention of intercepting the 
boat. When taken on board they proved to be 
4* 



42 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

Assinniboines on the war-path against the Oncpa- 
pahs ; each one carried a bundle of dry meat slung 
on his back, so as to obviate the dangerous necessity 
of hunting in an enemy's country. All were armed 
with fusees and bows and arrows, and carried, in 
addition, lariats to bring back the horses they 
expected to steal. 

The Missouri had now become very narrow and 
remarkably crooked, curving repeatedly upon itself; 
but the channel was better and more easily navi- 
gated than in the lower river. In the afternoon we 
came in sight of Fort William, three miles below 
the mouth of the Yellowstone, where we landed. 
Many Assinniboines were encamped around the fort, 
awaiting their annuities. "While discharging the 
supplies for this post, it was determined by Major 
Clark, the principal Bourgeois of the company, to 
abandon it and establish a new one some eighty 
miles up the river. 'No sooner said than done. All 
the materiel of the fort was in an incredibly short 
time shipped aboard the Twilight, leaving the robes 
and peltries to be taken on the return voyage. 

For several years past the country around the 
Yellowstone had been completely overrun by strong 
war parties of Sioux, bound against the Crows and 
Assinniboines, who, if they fell in with white men, 
did not hesitate to rob and often kill. So daring 



FORTUNION. 43 

had they become of late that it was almost impos- 
sible for the hunters to go out after game; the 
horses were run off in broad daylight under the very 
guns of the fort, a-nd during certain seasons of the 
year the most untiring vigilance was necessary to 
avoid surprise. In consequence, the Assinniboines 
were afraid to come down to trade, and, under these 
circumstances, the removal of Fort William to the 
heart of their hunting-grounds could hardly fail to 
be advantageous in every point of view. 

Everything having been received on board, we left 
for Fort Union, the post of the American Fur Com- 
pany, distant by water nine miles, though by land 
only three. On the way we passed the mouth of the 
far-famed Yellowstone, the largest tributary of the 
Missouri River, and whose waters flow through the 
finest hunting-grounds of the "West. We remained 
at Fort Union all night to land Col. Redfield and 
the Government annuities. The fort presented a 
very imposing appearance, and being one of the 
oldest of the American Fur Company's posts, was 
admirably equipped in every respect. From here 
were annually dispatched the outfits for the Crow 
Lidians on the Yellowstone, and the Blackfeet on 
the head waters of the Missouri. Captain James 
Kipp, the Bourgeois in charge, welcomed us with 
true mountain hospitality. We remained there all 



44 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

night, and by the next evening had arrived at tlie 
proposed site for the new fort and the terminus of 
our voyage, more than twenty-three hundred miles 
from St. Louis. 

Very beautiful, in its primeval solitude, was the 
spot whose tranquillity was soon to be rudely broken 
by the echoing axe of the woodsman, the rifle of 
the mountaineer, and the varied bustle of the trading- 
post. The startled deer sped away over the hills, 
the antelope halted afar off, and the gaunt gray wolf 
sneaked from the presence of man. Timber was 
abundant and close at hand, the Missouri's waters 
rolled at our feet, and the grassy prairies were liter- 
ally stocked with game. With all these natural 
advantages, and the greatly diminished danger of 
incursions from the Sioux, the new post seemed 
established under the most favorable auspices. 

By early dawn the work of discharging freight 
was commenced ; the goods were piled into a " bag- 
gage " and covered with tarpaulins to protect them 
from the weather until suitable storehouses could be 
erected. Besides these, Mackinaw boats must also 
be built to carry the outfit intended for Fort Camp- 
bell, the Blackfoot post, a distance by water of not 
less than seven hundred miles. 

These boats have to be cordelled, or drawn by 
men the entire distance, and the toils and difficulties 



DESCEND THE RIVER. 45 

of the undertaking can only be appreciated by those 
who have experienced them. The men chiefly em- 
ployed by the Fur Companies were French Cana- 
dians — tough, hardy fellows, who assimilate readily 
to the mode of life they are compelled to adopt in 
the Indian country. Several of the mountaineers 
who had come up from Fort "William had brought 
their squaws and families along. These at once pro- 
ceeded to pitch their lodges, camp-fires were kin- 
dled, and a new home in the wilderness, with its 
few simple comforts, soon established. 

By dint of hard work, all the freight was dis- 
charged by noon, and the steamboat was ready to 
commence her homeward voyage. The voyageurs 
drank a parting health with each other, and the Twi- 
light slowly swung out into the stream amid the 
cheers of those on shore, which were answered by 
her cannon. A bend of the river soon hid from our 
view the friends we had left behind, standing on the 
green prairie's edge to take their last look at us. 
[N'early twelve moons would wax and wane before 
they would be greeted by the arrival of another 
steamboat, and in that time what changes might not 
occur, subjected as they would be to the crafty hos- 
tility of the Indian, and the numberless perils of 
mountain life. 

Swiftly down stream sped the good Twilight, 



46 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

past headland and prairie, until, as the setting sun 
was casting its lengthening rays on the whitewashed 
bastions of Fort Union, she rounded to under the 
bluff'. A short stay and we were off" again, passing 
the mouth of the Yellowstone to Fort William, 
where a huge beacon-fire was blazing on the bank, 
surrounded by a group of wild-looking mountain- 
eers, eagerly awaiting our return. Morning at 
length dawned upon the dismantled fort, where but 
a short time before all had been life and animation. 
It now had a deserted and forlorn appearance, and 
in a little while the crumbling adobe walls would be 
all that remained of what had once been a bustling 
post. We took on board the proceeds of the last 
year's trade, consisting of over a thousand packs of 
robes and peltries, and with a farewell salute, our 
prow was again turned toward the *' settlements." 

While passing through the Big Bend we ran into 
a small band of buffalo crossing the river, and Cap- 
tain Shaw, going out in his yawl, succeeded in kill- 
ing three, which were towed alongside and hoisted 
on board to be butchered. The following afternoon 
we came in sight of the dirt-covered lodges of the 
Minnetarees, and soon after the Twilight landed in 
the eddy below the village. The robes and peltries 
in Fort Atkinson were shipped aboard, and after my 
personal baggage had been carried on shore, I bade 



ARRIVEATMYPOST. 47 

farewell to my late associates and walked up to the 
fort in company with my friend McBride. Before 
entering the stockade I looked back in time to catch 
a parting glimpse of the tall chimneys of the Twi- 
light disappearing behind the forest that skirted the 
southern bend of the river, and realized for the first 
time how completely I was isolated from civilization 
and thrown upon my own resources. 



CHAPTER IV. 

EVERY-DAY LIFE IN THE INDIAN COUNTRY — SUPPER — 

SLEEPING — "VOICES OF THE NIGHT " MORNING IN THE 

INDIAN CAMP — GROS VENTRE CELEBRITIES — AN INDIAN 
POLITICIAN. 

AT length I had arrived at my destination in the 
Indian country. For years it had been a cher- 
ished project to penetrate the heart of the wilder- 
ness and see the Indians as they really were ; those 
too far beyond the pale of civilization to have felt 
the corrupting influences of its overflow. As the 
steamboat that had brought me here rapidly pursued 
her course down stream, I realized my complete 
separation from all former associations, placed as I 
now was among new and strange scenes, and depen- 
dent upon the uncertain friendship of wild and often 
treacherous savages. Still it was my own free choice 
to dwell among them, and, as my baggage was carted 
up to the fort, the novelty of the situation and spec- 
ulation as to what would come next gave me no 
time to feel lonely. A crowd of Indians, chiefly 
women, followed, darkening the doors and windows, 

(48) 



SUPPER — SLEEPING. 49 

and peering into the room, eager, with the usual 
curiosity of their sex, to behold the " itch-u-manny " 
or new arrival, and exchanging comments, highly 
amusing, doubtless, judging from the boisterous 
mirth they elicited, but, happily, totally unintelli- 
gible to the object thereof. 

As evening approached, the gates of the fort were 
closed and barred to keep out intruders, and supper 
being announced, we proceeded to the kitchen, or 
mess-room, where it w^as served. The appearance 
of the edibles, it must be confessed, was anything 
but inviting ; but stimulated by a keen appetite, I 
fell to and ate heartily. The meal consisted of 
bacon, coffee, and bread. Bourgeois McBride apol- 
ogized for the absence of fresh buffalo-meat, for the 
reason that the Indians, having been much harassed 
lately by war-parties of the Sioux, were afraid to go 
any distance to hunt. The repast was, however, 
greatly enjoyed by the long-haired, wild-looking set 
that graced the board, all of whom had been on 
short allowance for several weeks preceding the 
arrival of the steamboat. 

!N^ight coming on, arrangements were made for my 
sleeping. A rough bunk of cottonwood plank was 
hastily knocked together, and half a dozen buffalo- 
robes made a comfortable bed. Before "turning 
in," McBride's squaw cooked some dried buffalo 

6 D 



50 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

meat and pomme hlanche^ which I found, with my 
improved appetite, very palatable. I was tired 
enough to wish for a good night's rest ; the hope 
was vain. The robes composing my bedding were 
old, having been well worn by their previous owners 
the Indians, and, as a matter of course, were thickly 
populated by those minute specimens of animated 
nature with which savages are so bountifully pro- 
vided. The active little creatures kept up their 
attacks most vigorously, and in such numbers, that, 
after vainly battling with them for several hours, I 
was fain to give up the unequal contest and retreat 
to the floor, where I spread my blankets and hoped 
to snatch a little sleep. But very soon my torment- 
ors discovered my new location and renewed their 
assaults, until completely worn out and irritated, I 
began to think that the romance of Indian life was 
one thing but its reality another. However, after a 
few weeks I became in a measure invulnerable to 
these pests, and paid but little attention to them, 
regarding them in the light of an unavoidable nui- 
sance. Finding sleep impossible under these cir- 
cumstances, I went out into the area of the fort, and 
climbing to the roof of one of the houses, contem- 
plated the unaccustomed scene. The surrounding 
prairies were wrapt in uncertain darkness, and not a 
sound escaped from the Indian village close by. 



"voices of the night." 51 

The morning-star shone brightly, high in the hea- 
vens, and I felt the freshness of approaching dawn. 
Soon a faint reddish streak became visible in the 
east, brightening even as the eye gazed upon it, and 
long rays of light shot upwards. Hazy and indis- 
tinct the outlines of the village appeared, and gleams 
of rosy light illumined the prairies, bringing into 
strong relief the scaffolds supporting the bodies of 
those now sleeping their everlasting sleep. The 
mournful howl of a dog, mounted on the top of one 
of the lodges, breaks the almost deathlike stillness. 
The notes are instantly caught up by others, and 
directly every cur in the village is taking his part 
with commendable energy. Commencing soft and 
low, the noise grows louder and deeper until it 
finally dies away in a prolonged wail ; modulated by 
distance, the sound is not unmusical. 

This canine matinee rouses up the sleepers ; a stir is 
evident in the village, and soon the curling smoke 
from the lodges floats in the morning air. The 
squaws, old and young, follow^ed by the usual retinue 
of dogs, hasten down to the river to fill their kettles, 
while the warriors from the tops of the lodges anx- 
iously scan the prairies to discover " signs " of ene- 
mies. Everything appearing quiet, the horses are 
driven forth, each band guarded by a young brave, 
who takes them where the best pasture is to be found, 



52 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

and brings them back at sundown. As the horses 
in the course of the day often stray to a distance of 
-^ve or six miles from the village, the guards act also 
as scouts, and ranging over the surrounding hills, 
serve not only to discover game, [i. e. buffalo,) but 
also the approach of a war party. Timely alarm can 
thus be given, and the horses hurried in, while the 
warriors prepare for battle. As horses constitute 
the principal wealth of an Indian, and are the chief 
incentives to depredations by one tribe upon another, 
the untiring vigilance used in guarding them is an 
imperative necessity. An Indian without horses is 
reduced to a pitiful strait indeed : crippled in hunt- 
ing, and unable often to carry home the meat he may 
kill, or to move his family when the camp travels. 

When thus situated, he will usually act as hunter 
for some relative rich in horses, who by giving him 
a few robes now and then, in payment as it were for 
his services, affords him an opportunity of regaining 
his former position. Horseflesh is uncertain prop- 
erty in any part of the world, and nowhere more 
so than in the Indian country. A fine horse is an 
overpowering temptation to a redskin, and if the 
possessor of one to-day, to-morrow may find him 
many miles away, having changed owners quite 
unceremoniously. 

The idlers, the gentlemen of the village, having 



OUR INDIAN "SOLDIER." 53 

taken their morning bath in the river and made their 
toilets, which at this season seemed to consist simply 
in readjusting the breechcloth, wend their way to 
the fort, loitering around and peering into the dif- 
ferent houses, in hopes of being asked to '' eat," an 
invitation which they never consider amiss, and 
always cheerfully accept. Conspicuous in the van 
is old Mi-rantah-nour-eesh, or Raising-Heart, a tall 
war-worn veteran, bearing in the scars with which 
he is covered the traces of many a hard-fought 
battle, besides being lamed and badly crippled in his 
hands. He is our " soldier," chosen on account of 
his friendly feelings towards the traders, and his 
influence and ability to protect them from the many 
annoyances to which they are often subjected. He 
is, of course, a regular habitue, and is dressed and 
fed at the expense of the post. But although .of a 
pleasant and smiling disposition, any injury done to 
the property or persons of the whites under his care 
is instantly resented. More than once have I seen 
him punish a young buck by striking him with the 
flat side of his tomahawk, as a gentle reminder that 
he cannot play the same pranks in the " white men's 
lodge" that he can in his own village, while the 
Raising-Heart is their soldier. The old man was 
not a chief, although his many dashing exploits 
when he trod the war-path richly entitled him to 

5* 



54 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

that distinction. He preferred to keep a large band 
of fine horses, " make plenty of robes," and provide 
well for his family, instead of giving away nearly 
everything he possessed, although he would thereby 
gain the much-coveted distinction of being a " big 
man," which distinction is too often acquired at the 
sacrifice of wealth and comfort, compelling the 
family to live in a straitened way, and in a great 
measure shift for themselves. But the Eaising- 
Heart, though not a chief, was very rich, and had 
an extensive circle of influential relatives, who, 
according to Indian custom, were obliged to make 
common cause in protecting one another, and in 
taking up any quarrel which concerned one of their 
number. Without a "soldier" it would be almost 
impossible to conduct trade or to transact business 
in this country. 

All the wild Indian tribes look upon the whites 
as an inferior race, pretty much in the same 
light that we formerly regarded plantation negroes. 
They have the idea that the earth is one vast 
plain resting upon four huge turtles, and that the 
"whites" occupy a very small corner of it, while 
the rest is the exclusive and illimitable domain of 
the Indians. One might talk to them for hours on 
this subject without being able to convince them one 
iota to the contrary ; but would infallibly gain for 



IDEAS ABOUT THE WHITES. 65 

himself the reputation of being an unmitigated liar 
if he persisted in asserting that the whites were as 
numerous as the leaves in the forest, and cunning 
and skilful beyond all expression. The poorest 
vagabond of a redskin that roams over the prairies, 
with little else than a breechcloth to hide his naked- 
ness, thinks himself infinitely richer and better in 
every respect than his "Great Father" the Presi^ 
dent of the United States, supposing him to have 
some definite idea of such a personage. The Indians 
look upon all Americans, or "Long-Knives," as a 
nation of traders, who get their goods from " a cun- 
ning people beyond the big water ; " and entertain- 
ing such a coutemptuous opinion of them, it follows 
naturally that they will take every opportunity of 
showing by petty annoyances their much-vaunted 
superiority. The knowledge that an influential 
man, with a host of relatives, is " soldier '' for the 
whites, renders the young bucks disposed to conduct 
themselves usually in an orderly and quiet manner, 
being well aware that any imbroglio that might 
arise from misconduct on their part, would end in 
Indian beijg arrayed against Indian, and not the 
whole tribe against a handful of whites. Thus it 
will be seen how the prosperity and success of a 
trading-post is dependent upon the efficient and con- 
ciliatory measures of the Bourgeois or commander, 



56 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

and the friendship and support of a powerful interest 
in the tribe. 

Another of our regular visitors Avas ]N'oc-pitts-ee- 
topish, or Four-Bears, one of the shrewdest men, all 
things considered, that I have ever encountered. 
Had he been a white man, he would have made a 
consummate politician, for while keeping in good 
favor with both the rival companies, he never failed 
to enrich himself greatly by so doing. Four-Bears 
was a tall, noble-looking man, with long black hair 
trailing nearly to the ground, an ornamental append- 
age valued almost beyond price. He was usually 
accompanied in his visits by his favorite son, a hope- 
ful boy of seven summers, who had, when only four 
years old, shot his mother with a gun, killing her 
instantly. This exploit was regarded as an evidence 
of indomitable spirit in the youth, who, it was 
expected, when old enough, would greatly distin- 
guish himself on the war-path. The chief invariably 
entered the Bourgeois' house with a bland smile 
upon his countenance, and seating himself upon a 
chair, proceeded to retail the news of the day: how 
badly his people talked against their traders, and 
how disinterestedl}^ he took the part of the latter, 
and pointed out to his young men that the traders 
were not only a convenience to them, but in reality 
a necessity. They were dependent upon them for 



AN INDIAN POLITICIAN. 67 

gUDS and ammunition to hunt with, and to defend 
themselves against their many enemies; for blan- 
kets and scarlet cloth to dress their women and 
children ; and reminded them of the trouble the 
women had in the olden time to boil a piece of meat. 
Unsupplied then with camp-kettles, they were 
obliged to dig a hole in the ground, and after lining 
it with a raw skin, throw in heated stones to make 
the water boil. 

Having thus succeeded, as he says, in convincing 
his young men, he expatiates at length upon the 
great advantages derived by the tribe from having 
two trading-houses, and the necessity of dividing 
their patronage between them for the support of 
both. He takes occasion carelessly to remark, that 
from his position as head-chief, any acknowledged 
leaning to one side or the other would exert an 
undue influence over his people ; yet in his heart he 
favored the Opposition Company, because they had 
not been so long established, and their presence pre- 
vented the American Fur Company from charging 
the exorbitant prices that prevailed before there was 
competition. After talking in this strain, a cup of 
coffee is given him, to get which has been the prin- 
cipal object of his visit. Then wrapping himself in 
his handsome buffalo-robe, on which were painted 
the head-dresses of war-eagle feathers he had given 



68 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

away in the course of his life, the chief stalks over 
to Fort Berthold, there to repeat his remarks with 
modifications to suit the change of locality. He 
expresses his great attachment to the American Fur 
Company because of its long establishment in the 
country, and its ability to reciprocate substantially 
any influence which he, the Four-Bears, might exert 
in its behalf. Thus both "-whites*' are assured to 
his own satisfaction of his disinterested friendship, 
and the chief returns to his lodge to gather a circle 
of his political cronies around him. Here the social 
pipe passes from hand to hand, and the conversation 
turning on public affairs, they discuss the expediency 
of inducing the traders, if possible, without pushing 
them too hard, to pay higher prices for their robes 
and peltries. After his horses were brought up for 
the night, he would pay us another visit, incidentally 
remarking that the cup of coffee given him at Fort 
Berthold in the morning was sweeter and stronger, 
and the biscuit larger than those he received from 
us, expecting us, of course, to improve upon the 
hint. If not too late, he usually wended his way to 
Fort Berthold to try his diplomacy there again. 

The heat gradually grows more intense, and the 
bright July sun beats down from a cloudless sky 
with an almost tropical fervor. The Indian idlers 



NOONTIDE. 59 

have all disappeared, and stillness reigns supreme 
where a short time since resounded the stir and hum 
of busy life. The very -dogs are quietly sleeping in 
the shade of the lodges. On the prairie not one of 
the many hundreds of horses that were driven forth 
at the break of day can now be seen; they have 
wandered off to shady dells where the grass is always 
fresh, watered by never-failing springs. The parched 
and smoking prairie fairly radiates under the intense 
heat of the noonday sun, and the deathlike silence 
that reigns is broken only by the sound of the rush- 
ing waters of the Missouri. 



CHAPTER Y 

EVENING — SPORTS AND PASTIMES — A PRACTICAL JOKE — 
AN INDIAN WARRIOR — INDIAN DANDIES NOVEL EQUI- 
TATION HORSE-RACE DOGS BEWAILING THE DEAD 

A LOVE DITTY SPLENDOR OP A MIDSUMMER'S NIGHT. 

WHE!N" the noontide heat is over, the village 
rouses into full activity, and the idlers resume 
their seats and pass their accustomed criticisms. 
]N"othing escapes their notice^, and many and hearty 
are the laughs they enjoy at the expense of some 
""wah-see-chu " or "little Frenchman." 

Sundown approaches and the day's work is over. 
In the eddy at the base of the bluff quite a number 
of Indians of both sexes and all ages are indulging 
in an evening swim, and a variety of aquatic sports 
extremely amusing to the lookers-on, if their hilari- 
ous mirth be any evidence. Crowds gather on the 
bank to watch the gambols of these water-sprites, 
and a line of squawks is constantly passing and 
repassing to and from the river, with their kettles 
for w^ater to cook the evening meal. Droves of 
horses cover the prairie, slowly driven towards the 

(60) 



SPORTS AND PASTIMES. 61 

river; when they approach, the bathers leave the 
water, and their places are quickly filled by the rest- 
less, half-wild horses, who, urged by the yells and 
cries of their drivers, rush pell-mell in. After 
drinking and swimming about, they scramble out, 
and forcing their way through the incoming droves, 
quickly rejoin their companions. When each band 
is collected again, they are driven up to their own- 
er's lodge and secured for the night. 

Further down the bank several men are fishing. 
The one that appears to have the best luck among 
them is a blind Mandan, who goes regularly twice a 
day, following the path along the edge of the bank, 
and avoiding with wonderful skill all unsafe places. 
I have never known him to miss his favorite spot, 
and he always found with unerring accuracy the rod 
which he had hid in the bushes after using it. The 
Indians claimed that he was gifted with supernatural 
powers — that he was "Medicine." 

Warriors who have completed their evening toilet 
now make their appearance on the roofs of the 
lodges. With paint and feathers, bright blankets, 
and tinkling hawk-bells, they stand, their gaze 
apparently fixed on some far-distant object, but in 
reality fully alive to the interest they excite among 
the young squaws, who eye them with ill-concealed 
admiration. 
6 



62 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

Tall forms stalk through the area of the fort with 
proud and measured tread, or leaning carelessly 
against an open door, observe all^ that passes, with 
seeming indifference. But let them catch sight of 
any preparations for cooking, and they will quickly 
enter and seat themselves upon the floor ; a pipe is 
sure to be forthcoming and passed around, while 
they converse with one another with great anima- 
tion upon the ever-fresh topics of war and hunting. 
Thus they sit and talk and smoke, and are sure to 
remain until the cooking is done, when, after eating 
the portion given to them, they rise, uttering a satis- 
fied " how ! " and take their departure, usually turn- 
ing their steps toward the village to tell their com- 
rades, without loss of time, of the feast they have 
just eaten in the "white man's lodge." 

On one occasion, during the long and seemingly 
interminable days that always preceded the arrival 
of the annual steamboat, my house was filled with 
Indians, as usual; being, in fact, the headquarters 
of the elite of the Gros Ventres village. Meat was 
plenty in camp, so there was no immediate* necessity 
to hunt; no enemies had been seen around for 
several weeks, and besides, the mah-ti-she-sheesh 
(steamboat) was daily looked for. It was a season 
of absolute repose, of masterly inactivity, for both 
traders and Indians ; and lounging from the trading- 



A PRACTICAL JOKE. 63 

post to the village, and the village to the trading- 
post, was the only business to be thought of. I had 
become completely tired of the incessant loafing 
that never gave me a quiet hour during the day ; 
and for a little diversion to kill time, filled a large 
cofl^ee-boiler with water and set it on the hearth close 
to the embers of the fire. My friends soon began 
to drop in, and before long the house was uncom- 
fortably crowded. In the anticipation, however, of 
a cup of coffee, they did not mind it in the least, 
but cheerfull}^, and with well-timed remarks, made 
room for every one that entered. Pipe after pipe 
was smoked, and an animated conversation kept up 
all the while. An hour passed, but no one left the 
room, being afraid to lose the expected treat, and I 
was ostensibly too busy with some writing to pay 
any attention to the thirsty souls. They waited with 
unfailing good-humor, attributing the delay to my 
being occupied, and indulged in a brisk conversa- 
tion about engaging in a general war with the Sioux 
after the departure of the steamboat. Time wore 
on, my circle of guests was still there, and had not 
manifested any inclination to diminish. I now pur- 
posely left the room for a few moments, and on 
returning found them drawn as close around the 
fireplace as they could possibly crowd. One gen- 
tleman, known among us by the sobriquet of the 



64 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

" Gambler," was just setting the boiler down, having 
evidently been testing by its weight, for his own 
satisfaction and that of his comrades, whether it was 
full or empty. That it was full of coffee was the 
only inference they could draw. One, unable to 
remain any longer, and not wishing to forego the 
pleasure of tasting it, drew my attention to the 
boiler, and plainly hinted at what was expected. I 
cheerfully assented ; tin cups were quickly pro- 
duced, and the ^'Gambler" was deputed to do the 
honors, which he undertook with great alacrity. 
The peculiar clearness of the liquid drew forth a 
remark from some one of the party, and the cup 
already drawn was poured back, while the supposed 
grounds were vigorously stirred with a stick, but 
with no improvement in the result. A brief con- 
sultation ensued, and they were unwillingly forced 
to conclude that they had been '* sold ;" but without 
manifesting the slightest displeasure, quietly left the 
room. It was soon noised through the village, and 
ever afterwards the Gros Ventres were satisfied to 
see a coffee-pot standing near my fire without wait- 
ing half a day to investigate its contents. The joke 
had a lasting effect. 

Young bucks parade about on their fancy horses, 
some of which are spotted in a remarkable manner. 



AN INDIAN WARRIOR. 65 

War-eao^le feathers float from the forelock or tail of 
many of the steeds, denoting speed and the high esti- 
mation of the owner. Those who are so fortunate 
as to possess one, use the heavy Spanish bit with its 
long iron fringes, jingling with the slightest move- 
ment of the horse. Shrinking and fretting under 
its cruel pressure, he arches his neck, curvets and 
prances to the great delight of his savage rider. 
Preeminently conspicuous among the chivalry of the 
Minnetarees was the second chief Chae-shah-hor-a- 
hish, the Poor (or lean) Wolf, mounted on his mag- 
nificent charger, black as a raven and adorned with 
gay barbaric trappings ; the chief himself clothed 
with the insignia of his rank and exploits as a 
warrior. Horse and rider would stan€ motionless 
as a statue before the gates of the Fort, and it was 
next to impossible not to admire'this perfect living 
picture. 

The Poor Wolf was an Indian to the backbone ; 
he scorned the dress, food, and merchandise of the 
traders, as much as he felt himself their superior. 
At all the public dances and ceremonies of his tribe 
he was invariably present, and entered into them with 
his whole heart. Like the Four-Bears, he ranked 
high in the estimation of his people ; but unlike 
him, though poor, he neither courted the traders 

nor feared their power. 

6* E 



66 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

The crowd gathering on the prairie close to the 
pickets of the village, shows that something unusual 
is going on. A horse-race must be the cause of the 
excitement, since five or six young men are gallop- 
ing away in the direction of the creek, fully half a 
mile distant. They are naked, with the scanty ex- 
ception of a breechcloth, and control their spirited 
ponies with a lariat tied around the lower jaw. 
From the tops of the lodges eager eyes are directed 
towards the starting-point, and a few brief sentences 
announce to the expectant throng that the riders are 
*' coming this way." In one moment the competitors 
are spread out in line ; the next they are hid from 
view by an intervening roll of the prairie, but the 
quick stroke of their horses' hoofs grow rapidly 
more distinct — ISTow they are close at hand — the 
excitement is at its height ; for the horses are neck 
and neck : so closely is the race contested that it is 
impossible to tell who will be the victor. 

The friends of the competitors yield to the im- 
pulse of the moment, and make bets ; throwing 
down robes, blankets, and guns in the most reckless 
manner. The riders lean forward until they lie 
almost flat upon their horses; yelling, thumping 
their heels into their sides, and using the heavy In- 
dian whip with a will. Fifty yards more will decide 
the race, and a breathless suspense prevails. Gath- 



HORSE RACE — INDIAN GIRLS 67 

ering all his energies for the decisive moment, the 
Crow-that-Flies shoots far ahead of the rest, amid 
the wildest exultations of his friends, and careers on 
at full speed, until within a few feet of the edge of 
the precipitous bank of the river. Then checking 
his horse so suddenly as to throw him back upon his 
haunches, he wheels sharply around, and canters 
back to receive the congratulations of his friends, 
who are loud in their praises of his black and white 
spotted steed. 

The young squaws are playing a game of ball, 
resembling shinny or football, inasmuch as curved 
sticks and feet are called into service. The girls are 
generally dressed in a metuJcee (petticoat) of blue or 
scarlet cloth, some being trimmed with rows of 
elk's teeth, a scarce and highly prized ornament, 
smce it is only the two tushes of an elk that are 
used. On account of the difficulty of obtaining 
them, the value of a dress ornamented with several 
hundred of these teeth is at once apparent. The 
crease of the hair is painted with vermilion, as is 
also a round spot on each cheek. The little boys 
amuse themselves in shooting at different objects 
with blunt arrows. 

In another direction we see three young Indian 
dandies dressed and painted in the height of fashion, 
with bunches of shells surmounted with small scarlet 



I 



68 AMONGTHEINDIANS. 

feathers fastened to a lock of hair on each side of their 
foreheads. They wear false hair ornamented with 
spots of red and white clay and ingeniously glued to 
their own, and sport bright scarlet blankets lavishly 
garnished with white and black or white and blue 
beads. The long fringes of their deerskin leggings 
trail their whole length, and a foxtail dragging from 
the heel of each moccasin, completes the costume. 

This trio of worthies is mounted upon a stout 
pony, whose plaited tail is adorned with eagle-feath- 
ers and the impress of a hand stamped with white 
clay upon his flanks. 

In this style they wend their way slowly through 
the village, the first one guiding and urging on the 
steed, who by his sluggish gait plainly shows his 
disapproval of this style of equitation. The middle 
one is singing at the top of his lungs, assisted by 
the third, whenever he is not obliged to give his 
whole attention to avoid sliding over the horse's tail. 

Those invaluable but greatly abused members of 
the community, the dogs, take advantage of the 
temporary inattention of the women to prowl among 
the lodges, in hopes of being able to steal something 
edible. One has found a slice of meat, and is bear- 
ing it off, foolishly thinking to enjoy it by himself. 
In an instant a hundred hungry, wolfish curs seize 
upon it, and there is a prodigious uproar, a grand 



I 



DARKNESS COMINa ON. 69 

flourisli of tails, and miicli snapping though but 
little biting. In the confusion, some cunning old 
dog, watching his chance, picks up the coveted 
morsel and bolts it down while the rest are blindly 
fighting for it. The disturbance, however slight, is 
sufficient to draw the attention of one of the squaws, 
who picks up whatever comes first to hand, be it a 
billet of wood, a kettle, or an axe, and hurls it at 
the assembly with the complimentary remark "I^ar- 
har-ah-suk-kuk," (Go away, you fools,) which advice 
is promptly heeded. 

When meat is plenty in camp, the dogs get fat 
and look well, but in times of scarcity they have to 
pick up whatever they can find, and are often driven 
to the most revolting means of satisfying their 
hunger. 

The sun has long since gone down, but the rays 
of his departing splendor illumine everything with 
a soft golden light. The tall cottonwoods across the 
river look fresh and green as in early spring-time. 
The prairie is deserted ; the last band of horses has 
disappeared within the picketed enclosure of the 
village ; the gates of the fort are closed and locked, 
and the sounds of life in the Indian camp grow 
fainter and fewer. Will night and darkness ever 
come? It is late, quite late, yet so pure is the 



(k 



70 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

atmosphere that one is still able to read by the light 
of the stars glittering in the calm, clear sky. 

A woman is wailing by the dead body of her hus- 
band on one of the scaflblds. The sound is mournful 
in the extreme, as if her heart was broken with a 
grief that could not be comforted. 

Her husband had fallen in a battle with the Sioux. 
More than twelve moons have waxed and waned 
since he started with his warriors on that fatal war- 
path. Her eyes are tearless, and there is little real 
sorrow in her lamentation. When she has cried 
long enough she will return to her lodge and enter 
into any domestic occupation or amusement that 
may be going on. Should there be a dance in the 
village, she will quickly rub a little vermilion on her 
cheeks and join in the revelry, to all appearances as 
gay as the gayest. 

As the sounds of grief die away, the voice of a 
young buck is heard singing a love-ditty, which an 
inexperienced ear might find difficult to distinguish 
from a lament for the dead. 

The night advances, and even these sounds are at 
length hushed. The perfect stillness that reigns 
over everything is broken only by the sullen, cease- 
less roar of the Missouri, or the occasional whistle 
of an elk, borne faintly on the evening breeze. 
Now and then a crash tells of some portion of the 



A 



A midsummer's night. 71 

river's bank, undermined by the rushing of the cur- 
rent, crumbling in, often bringing with it some 
noble forest- tree, which is swept into the whirl of 
angry waters to be carried along until, stripped of 
its fair proportions, it is cast a shapeless log on some 
distant sand-bar. 

The scene varies ; bright and dazzling the N'orth- 
ern Lights flash up high into the starlit sky, dim- 
ming the evening's early glories by their greater 
splendor. 

Gradually they too fade away, but the stars still 
glitter in the heavens, and the full beams of the 
rising ''harvest moon" shed their soft, silvery light 
over forest and prairie. Insensibly 

"Sleep and oblivion reign over all." 

Such were the scenes and such often the routine 
of a midsummer's day and night in the far-off wil- 
derness of the Northwest. » 



t 



CHAPTER VI. 

DESCRIPTION OF A TRADING-POST — DOMESTIC ECONOMY — 
buffalo! — BULL-BOATS — DEPARTURE OF THE INDIAN 
HUNTERS — THE "SURROUND" — "MAKING MEDICINE." 

FORT Atkinson was, at the time I speak of, a 
new erection and but partially finished. The 
buildings formerly occupied by the Company had 
been put up some years previously and had become 
so dilapidated with age and neglect, as to be almost 
unfit for use ; making their renewal an imperative 
necessity. The new Fort was one hundred and 
twenty feet square, which was sufficiently spacious 
for all the requirements of the trade. It was built 
on the lower end of the high blufiF bank, about two 
hundre'd feet from the river, and nearly the same 
distance from the Indian village. 

A row of four houses of hewn timber, one story 
high, was already completely finished. The first 
house was used as an "Indian room." Here the 
"pipe" was kept, and here the two interpreters, 
Paquenode and Malnouri, dwelt, with their Indian 
wives and half-breed progeny. Eude benches were 

(72) 



MY QUARTERS. 73 

placed around the sides to accommodate the Indian 
visitors, who constantly dropped in at all times to 
smoke and gossip. It was in short a kind of Ex- 
change, where the news of the day was retailed 
from one to another. The building adjoining was 
intended for the men's quarter, but at present was 
used as a storehouse. The one next above was the 
Bourgeois' house or headquarters. Here McBride 
and I dwelt in glorious independence. The interior 
arrangements of this abode were in a style suited 
to the place, and very cosy and comfortable. Two 
rough bedsteads of cottonwood slabs stood in oppo- 
site corners. The bedding consisted of buffalo 
robes, and the rough frames of the bedsteads were 
partially concealed by curtains of gaudy calico, 
which gave a certain finish to the interior. The 
wide-spreading horns of an elk occupied a conspicu- 
ous position on the wall, from the antlers of which 
hung powder-horns and bullet-pouches, with shoul- 
der-straps of scarlet cloth elaborately worked with 
beads. Bridles, "■ mountain " saddles, apishamores, 
lariats, and other equipments decorated the walls; 
from which were also suspended rifies and shot-guns, 
always loaded and ready for use, protected by fringed 
deerskin covers. There were also a few rou2:h 
chairs, the seats being formed of raw-hide cords ; 
these, with a clumsy table completed the furniture. 
7 



74 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

A barrel of water stood by the door, and a tin pan 
hanging from a nail close by, afforded a convenient 
substitute for a wash-bowl and appurtenances. The 
appearance of all the houses was greatly improved 
by being washed, both inside and out, with the 
white clay that abounds in this region, and is gen- 
erally used by the Indians to clean their robes and 
dresses from grease and dirt, also rendering them 
soft and pliable. 

Adjoining the Bourgeois' house was the kitchen 
and mess-room, the presiding genius of which 
seemed to take greater delight in declaiming against 
the Indians and waging war upon the innumerable 
flies, than in the discharge of his duties, about 
which, if the truth must be told, his knowledge was 
not over-extensive. On the opposite side of the 
area a row, of similar length, was building, intended 
as a storehouse for goods and furs. Material suf- 
ficient was on the ground to finish all these improve- 
ments before cold weather set in. Three sides of 
the fort were enclosed with a substantial stockade 
of hewn timbers, sixteen feet in height. Each 
picket had a face of about twelve inches by six in 
thickness, and was strongly set three feet in the 
ground, secured at the top by a heavy wooden plate 
or sill. The unenclosed side was occupied by the 
remaining buildings of the old fort, which eventually 



buffalo! — BULL-BOATS. 75 

would all be removed and rebuilt to correspond with 
the new part. The work was pushed on vigorously, 
exciting great interest among the crowd of idlers, 
who watched the proceedings with the untiring 
patience of the Indian. 

An Indian riding in hot haste towards the village 
one morning created a great excitement, while the 
guards at the same time could be seen hurrying in 
the horses from every direction. "The enemy! the 
enemy! " was the cry, and a general rush to arms 
followed. Whoops and yells resounded on all sides, 
and the alarm was fast spreading ; when the scout, 
dashing up on his foaming steed, announced that a 
laro-e band of buffalo had been discovered at some 
distance across the river. Preparations for the chase 
were at once actively begun, and in high glee at the 
anticipated feast of fresh meat, the squaws carried 
down to the water's edge the bull-boats in which to 
ferry the hunters over. These boats, which are neces- 
sary adjuncts to every Gros Ventre lodge, are made 
of the fresh hide of a buffalo-bull stretched over a 
framework of willow. As the hide dries, it shrinks, 
binding the whole together with great strength. In 
shape they resemble large wash-tubs, and will bear 
astonishing loads, considering the frail manner of 
their construction. 

With proper care in keeping the hide dry and free 



76 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

from holes, a well-made bull-boat will last a couple 
of years. They are ticklish craft to navigate, how- 
ever, and unless the voyager is extremely careful to 
preserve an equilibrium, he will suddenly and most 
unexpectedly find himself treated to a cold plunge. 
These bull-boats are always paddled by the squaws, 
and very laborious work it is, since the paddle is 
thrust into the water only about two feet in advance 
and drawn towards the boat, thus impelling it slowly 
forwards. 

In embarking in one of these frail canoes, the 
saddles, guns, and other equipments are carefully 
placed in the bottom ; the hunter next steps in, 
holding the ends of his horses' lariats, which are 
fastened with a double running noose around their 
lower jaws. 

The squaw then pushes the boat off, and wades 
out with it until the water becomes sufficiently deep, 
when, steadying herself with her paddle, she care- 
fully takes her place, and the horses, two or three 
of which are usually crossed at once, being urged 
into the river by the shouts and cries of the by- 
standers, slowly and reluctantly yield themselves to 
the guidance of their master. For a while, although 
the squaw paddles with all her might, the boat 
makes no headway, but whirls around like a top. 
The struggles and plunges of the unwilling and 



DEPARTURE OF THE HUNTERS. 77 

refractory horses retard its progress and momentarily 
threaten to upset the frail vessel, until the very vio- 
lence of their exertions carries them out into deep 
water. The strong current bears them swiftly along, 
and the horses, guided and supported by their master, 
swim after, only their heads and elevated tails being 
visible. 

The boats always start from the upper end of the 
village and strike directly across, but as soon as they 
get into the current are drifted down some distance 
before they can make the opposite shore. After 
effecting a landing, the squaw drags her boat out of 
the water and helps her hunter to saddle. 

He canters off on one of the pack-horses, leading 
his " runner" to keep him fresh for the chase; and 
striking through the timber, halts at a convenient 
rendezvous previously agreed upon. When all are 
assembled, the leader of the hunt takes command, 
and arranges the details. 

The squaws, inverting the bull-boats over their 
heads, carry them to a point above the village, and 
then set out on their return, reaching the shore con- 
siderably below the starting-place. The women with 
their boats over their heads resemble huge black 
beetles crawling along the sand-bar. 

An animated sight it was as the hunters cantered 
on their dripping steeds through the forest-glades, 
7* 



78 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

their bright-colored blankets and glittering equip- 
ments forming a strong contrast to the dark-green 
foliage of the cottonwoods and brighter hues of the 
red willows. The buffalo were in plain sight, feed- 
ing quietly, unconscious of the impending danger. 
They had divided into two bands, the smaller of 
which was much nearer than the other. Some were 
lying down, others were rolling and pawing the 
ground with their hoofs, causing a thin cloud of 
dust to float over the herds, while their deep bel- 
lowing sounded like distant thunder. Many of the 
bulls were butting and fighting each other. 

The band of hunters emerged from the timber, 
and after riding a few hundred yards out on the 
prairie, came to a halt. A party was now detached 
and sent against the wind, keeping parallel with the 
forest. These were mounted on the fastest horses : 
those able to " catch " buffalo under any circum- 
^ stances. The main body continued cautiously on, 
having two scouts in advance, so as to be instantly 
notified of any change in the position of the buffalo. 
A second party now made a flank movement on the 
small band and halted. The rest of the hunters 
rode on, and soon disappeared behind a heavy roll 
of the prairie. They then made a semicircular 
movement, which brought them close to the rear of 
the large herd. 



THE "SUKROUND." 79 

The pack-horses were now hobbled and left; 
blankets and every superfluous article laid aside, and 
all being ready, at a given signal the three parties 
dashed forwards at the top of their horses' speed. 

In an instant the buffalo appeared strung out in a 
long line, while the hunters, in an irregular body, 
dealt destruction everywhere. The fast horses soon 
distanced the others and brought their riders along- 
side of the ^'fattest meat." The dust raised by 
hundreds of hoofs hung in a thick, suffocating 
cloud, while the booming of guns, whizzing of 
arrows, and rush of the maddened herd, with the 
reckless riding of the excited Indians, formed a 
thrilling spectacle. 

The cloud rolled away, but many of that band of 
buffalo were lying dead upon the prairie, and the 
hunters busily engaged in butchering, their horses 
quietly feeding near with trailing lariats. A few 
survivors were fleeing rapidly over the hills, and 
here and there a wounded cow stood at bay, sav- 
agely charging at .her pursuer, while the well-trained 
horse skilfully avoided the shock. 

In a little while the pack-horses were loaded, and 
the hunters set out on their return. The close of the 
day saw them gathered on the sand bar, preparing 
to cross back to the village. Masses of reeking 
flesh were flung into the boats ; the saddles, apisha- 



80 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

mores (old buffalo rugs used under the saddles, 
soiled with blood and sweat) thrown on top with the 
rest of the equipments, and the hunters taking their 
places, recrossed ; the exhausted horses swimming 
passively behind. At the landing the squaws again 
saddle the horses and pack the meat, leaving the 
hunters to pick up their weapons, without giving 
themselves further concern. The shrill cries of 
the women scolding at one another, and driving 
away the dogs that are hovering around to snap at 
the meat hanging from the pack-saddles, add to 
the general confusion and excitement. When the 
returning hunters were first seen on the hills, fires 
were kindled in the lodges, over which the squaws 
hung kettles of water. Ko unnecessary time was 
therefore lost before a general feasting was in pro- 
gress throughout the entire camp. 

The very opportune supply of meat, which this 
hunt afforded, would however last but a few days, 
and another was therefore proposed, as soon as a 
war-party should return, which had been out for a 
long time, and for whose safety great apprehensions 
were felt. 

The next morning two white medicine flags were 
flying on the prairie, each bearing a rude painting 
in vermilion of the sun and moon, to which they 
were offerings. An Indian walked in a circle around 



"MAKING MEDICINE." 81 

them all day long, crying and praying to the Great 
Spirit, to grant him success in war and the chase. 
IsTear him was a small pile of human skulls, around 
each of which was bound a strip of scarlet cloth. 
His lance, thrust into the ground beside them, sup- 
ported his shield and medicine bag. During the 
time that he was making this "medicine " he durst 
not eat, nor speak to any one, for fear of breaking 
the spell, and thereby displeasing the Great Spirit. 

F 



CHAPTEEYIL 

RETURN OF A WAR-PARTY SONGS OP TRIUMPH — DANCES — 

ADVENTURES OF THE WAR-PARTY — CHIVALRY IN AM- 
BUSH — AN INDIAN MEDICO — DOCTOR E-TEN-AH-PEN-AH — 
BLACK MAIL. 

WE were enjoying the usual noontide siesta; 
the day was warm, and the village had quieted 
down to a state of general repose. A sudden dis- 
charge of firearms across the river changed the scene. 
In an instant all is excitement — warriors seize their 
weapons, and rush to the edge of the hluff, eagerly 
seeking the cause of alarm. Thirteen Indians have 
just made their appearance on the sand-bar opposite 
— it is the long looked-for war-party, — they are re- 
turning in triumph ! 

Their faces are painted black, and one carries a 
scalp on the end of his lance, while another leads a 
fine horse. They form a single rank, and march up 
and down the bar, singing and firing off" their fusees. 
Bull-boats are quickly sent across, in. one of which 
is the. Long-Hair, who, as soon as he hears the news, 
announces it across the river, and is heard without 

(82) 



REJOICINGS — DANCES. 83 

difficulty. Soon the whole party are brought over, 
and receive the warm congratulations of the old 
men, as well as the smiles of the squaws, and are 
objects of envy to the bannerets and boys who have 
not yet had or sought an opportunity of distinguish- 
ing themselves on the war-path. For the rest of 
the day, and all night, nothing else was thought of 
but singing and dancing the scalp. Towards sun- 
down the Long-Hair (so called from the length of 
his natural hair which trailed on the ground as he 
walked), celebrated as a haranguer, came into the 
fort at the head of a party of young squaws, to 
entertain us with the scalp- song and dance. All had 
painted their cheeks with vermilion and yellow clay, 
and wore their finest dresses. As they had been 
singing and dancing before every lodge in the vil- 
lage, the girls appeared rather tired, and the Long- 
Hair decidedly out of breath with his exertions. 
They danced around in a circle, with a jerking 
shuffling step ; the Long-Hair beating a drum which 
resembled a very large tambourine, and sino-iuo- 
"hi, hi, hi-yah, hi-yah," to which the squaws echoed 
shrilly, "he, he, he-ee, he-ee." 

This war-party had started out several weeks be- 
fore, in connection with a small band of Rees; 
making altogether about thirty young and daring 
braves. Their destination was Fort Pierre, in the 



84 AMONGTHEINDIANS. 

neighborhood of which a few lodges of Sioux were 
usually encamped, and they designed lurking around, 
until an opportunity offered to " count a coup ; " 
i. e., steal a horse or take a scalp ; in both of which 
they had been successful. 

Carefully and stealthily they made their way, sub- 
sisting upon dry pounded meat or toro, which had 
been prepared for them before leaving home. 
Lighting no fires when they camped, lest they 
should attract the notice of their enemies, they kept 
on, day by day, until, after a toilsome march, they 
beheld, from a distant bluff, the long sought Fort 
Pierre, and near it, eight or ten lodges of Sioux. 

Here they remained concealed until nightfall, 
quietly awaiting the decisive moment, when success 
or defeat w^ould attend them. It came at last ; — 
wdth cautious tread they crept within an arrow's 
flight of the lodges. 

The gray dawn is breaking, and before the 
inmates of the trading-post are astir, the Sioux have 
loosened their horses and are driving them off to 
pasture. The women take their kettles to the river's 
brink for water, and one old squaw comes uncon- 
sciously towards the lurking-place of her deadly 
foes to pick service-berries, which grew there in 
abundance. A start, and the hand extended to 
pluck the berries is motionless for an instant. In- 



CHIVALRY IN AMBUSH. 85 

stinctively she turns to flee, but the winged arrow is 
swifter, and she falls headlong, pierced through the 
heart. The scalp is torn off with a quick jerk of the 
knife, and each warrior strikes the body, thereby 
counting a coup, to be emblazoned on his battle- 
robe, and placed on the Indian roll of fame. Flushed 
with success, and heedless of the weary distance to 
be traversed before they see their own village again, 
the victors rapidly and warily begin their return. 

Dire will be the consternation that seizes on that 
little encampment when the mangled corpse shall 
be discovered. Who can tell but that her increasing 
age and feebleness would ere long have rendered 
her unfit to keep up with her people when they 
travelled, when she would have been abandoned to 
a fate more horrible. Better for her was instant 
death than to be deserted by her kin and left to 
perish miserably, or be torn piecemeal by wolves. 

Continuing their retreat, they found a very fine 
horse, which had probably been lost from some Indian 
camp, and was in good order, or as they expressed 
it, "rolling fat." Highly elated with their success, 
they returned in safety to their respective villages, 
where they met with a warm welcome, the more 
cordial since they had been given up for lost. After 
leaving the Rees village, every step of their route 
lay through an enemy's country, whose numerous 
8 



86 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

scouts and hunting-parties could hardly fail to dis- 
cover them. 

A season of comparative quiet now set in ; the 
horses were luxuriating upon the rich grass, and 
rapidly recovering from the fatigues of the last hunt. 
The squaws were hard at work hoeing their corn- 
fields, and exulting in the prospect of an abundant 
crop. Our storehouse was by this time completely 
finished. It was divided into three compartments; 
one for storing away the robes and peltries, and 
which was, of course, at this season nearly empty. 
The middle part was fitted up as a trade-store, with 
a high counter set back a few feet from the door, 
just giving space enough to admit two or three 
Indians at a time. Rude shelves of rough plank at 
the rear contained a small assortment of the various 
goods needed. Blankets, knives, gayly-ornamented 
bridles, fusees with their stocks profusely studded 
with brass tacks, blue and scarlet cloth, beads, cali- 
coes, and all the glittering trifles that please the 
savage taste. In the remaining apartment were kept 
the provisions and goods in bulk, from which the 
trade-store was supplied as its necessities required. 

After storing and arranging the goods, there was 
but little to do until the winter trade began. The 
work of enclosing the fort with pickets had been 
also completed, new and substantial gates hung, 



AN INDIAN MEDICO. 87 

and after the haying season was over, it was designed 
to put up an ice-house and ^' plunder-rooms." These 
improvements had done away with almost every 
vestige of the old fort. One magnificent structure 
alone remained. It was about eight feet by ten, 
with not space enough between the floor and roof to 
admit of a middle-sized man standing upright. 

This building was at present occupied by an old 
Santee (Sioux) named E-teu-ah-pen-ah, (the-Face- 
that-don't-run,) a highly accomplished sinner, and a 
worthy inhabitant of the old cabin. He was a 
boundless liar, but always told his stories with such 
a serio-comic air, that it was impossible to listen to 
him without being greatly amused. For many 
years he had dwelt among the Rees and Gros Ven- 
tres, and was regarded by them with great awe as a 
"Medicine-man," or doctor, of extraordinary skill. 
Besides his squaw, a rather fine-looking young 
Yancton woman, and his boy, there were four or 
five old hags, habitual attachees of his establish- 
ment, who made it their regular headquarters, and 
lived there with bag and baggage. So it is obvious 
that, from the very limited size of this dwelling, 
there could be but little room to spare. All day the 
old Doctor, as we st^ded him, would sit, surrounded 
by a coterie of his friends, regaling them with num- 
berless lies, but all so plausibly told that his delighted 
auditors listened with gaping attention. 



88 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

The kettle was constantly on the fire, for the Doc- 
tor's hospitality as a host was proverbial, and as long 
as there was anything in "the cabin" to eat, he 
entertained plenty of company. 

His son and heir, a hopeful urchin of three sum- 
mers, rejoiced in the title of the Muskrat, and was 
usually called in to finish the remains of the feasts, 
which, with the willing assistance of two or three 
puppies, his constant companions, he quickly and 
thoroughly accomplished. The Muskrat ran about 
with nothing but his own skin for a covering, which 
was generally spotted in a tasteful manner with 
white clay ; and after a meal his rotundity would 
assume such bursting proportions as to most justly 
entitle him to the enviable distinction of being a 
" Gros Ventre," regardless of his Dacotah parentage. 

Doctor E-ten-ah-pen-ah came into my room one 
morning and found me poring over a book. Here 
was a new idea ! If he could only get one ! Much 
amused, I presented him with it, and then, at his 
urgent solicitation, wrote some sentences in Sioux, 
which he dictated, on one of the pages ; and chuck- 
ling to himself over his prize, the old rascal hurried 
back to his abode. 

In the course of the morning, while strolling 
around, I noticed an unusual crowd in front of his 
residence, and curious to know what ceremony was 



DOCTOR E-TEN-AH-PEN-AH. 89 

in progress, looked in. There was the Doctor, with 
the book open before him, his eyes intently fixed 
upon the page, moving his lips as if reading, and 
occasionally turning over a leaf. He had on a pair 
of heavy silver-rimmed spectacles, and, as might be 
expected, looked profoundly wise. With difficulty 
suppressing my mirth, I was turning to go away, 
when one of his guests, who was evidently sceptical 
as to the Doctor's literary attainments, called me 
back, and asked me if he could read. Prompted by 
a glance from the Doctor, I nodded affirmatively, 
whereupon, with consummate adroitness, the old 
fellow repeated the lines I had written at his dicta- 
tion, and then pushing his glasses up over his fore- 
head, handed the book to me. I at once read off the 
same sentences, and his triumph was complete. 
After casting a quizzical glance at me, as if to say 
that we understood each other thoroughly, he closed 
the book, and looking around with an air of intense 
self-satisfaction, complacently received the undis- 
guised plaudits of his friends. So the Doctor con- 
tinued to flourish until it was necessary to pull down 
the architectural pile in which he dwelt, when he 
removed to the village and purchased a lodge, giving 
one of his two remaining horses for it. He was, 
however, constantly in the fort, and frequently got 
medicines from me, with which he performed some 
wonderful cures. 

8* 



90 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

About this time ^ve or six "big men" came into 
the Bourgeois' house and said that it had been 
determined in Council not to let the whites make 
hay this year. An interval of profound silence 
ensued, which was broken by one of the party asking 
that a kettle of tea be made for their refreshment. 
The interpreter was forthwith ordered to tell them 
that, as we were not to be allowed to cut hay this 
season, it would be necessary to save our tea to feed 
our horses on during the winter. This unexpected 
reply entirely upset their remaining ideas upon the 
subject, and after a short and awkward pause, they 
gathered their blankets around them and made a 
rather undignified exit. A day or so after, the Fat 
Fox, who was the principal spokesman on that 
memorable occasion, stopped in to see us in a most 
friendly way, and casually remarked that what had 
been said about not allowing us to cut hay, was 
merely a little fun — only "squaw's talk," and con- 
sequently nothing more must be thought of it. So 
this attempt to levy black mail from the luckless 
whites resulted in a complete failure. 

A drowned buffalo floated past, when some young 
Indians swam after, and succeeded in landing it 
about a mile down the river, where it was butchered. 
"When carried by, the meat was rank and almost 
putrid, but not too offensive for the delicate palates 
of the savages. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

GOING TO " NICKAWAY " — A PRUDENT GENERAL — AFFAIRS 

AT THE VILLAGE — SIOUX ABOUT LUDICROUS RAGE OF 

A FAT INDIAN — THE PANIC — RETREAT THE DRY 

pumpkin's HARANGUE HIS WARLIKE ANTECEDENTS — 

CAUSE OF THE ALARM EXPLAINED. 

GOroG to Mckaway* in two nights, near the 
Square Hills in the big bend." — So the Hawk 
told us when he came to beg some powder and balls, 
making the usual promises to pay liberally in meat 
when he returned. It was to be a general turn-out, 
he said, of all the able-bodied men, each accom- 
panied by one or two squaws, to cut up and jerk the 
meat. The old people, who would be compelled to 
remain behind, were already in great trepidation lest 
the Sioux, after reconnoitring and finding nearly all 
the men away, would devastate the cornfields, and 
perhaps the village itself. Even the " General," as 
we called the valiant Paquenaude, asked permission 

* When the Indians go on a single hunt, they call it a "surround;" 
when they go with their squaws, intending to make a number of 
surrounds, until they have secured as much dry meat as they want, 
they call it "going to Nickaway." 

(91) 



02 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

to accompany the hunting-party, for the sole pur- 
pose, as he said, of securing a supply of superior 
meat for the use of the fort ; but others, less chari- 
table, said it was simply a strategic move on his part. 

The whole morning resounded with the busy note 
of preparation. Towards afternoon the horses were 
driven up, and the work of crossing them com- 
menced. The confusion and bustle were at their 
height when Paquenaude began saddling up. He 
intended taking his squaw and child along, and as 
many of his effects as could be conveniently packed 
on his horses, three of which were loaned him from 
our stud, with the understanding that one half the 
meat they brought back was to be turned over to 
the Company. 

The *' General " put on his helmet, in the shape 
of a black handkerchief tied around his head, and 
shouldering his gun, when everything was ready, 
bade us farewell, with a lengthened countenance 
which was irresistibly ludicrous. No inducement 
could have been held out sufficient to keep him with 
us in the fort, while so many of the Indians were 
away. He took his departure with the settled con- 
viction that we were doomed men, and would 
undoubtedly fall victims to the immense war-party 
of Yanc-toh-wahs, which he knew was lurking near 
by, only waiting until the hunters got off' to make 



OFFTONICKAWAY. 93 

an onslaught upon the village, and expecting when 
he returned to find nothing but charred timbers and 
mangled corpses. 

By evening all the hunters were across the river, 
and everything had settled down into more than its 
wonted quiet. Our store was filled with Indian 
valuables temporarily deposited for safe-keeping, 
while many women and children, as well as old men, 
asked and obtained permission to share the security 
of the fort until their friends returned. 

The Mckaway people camped on the edge of the 
open prairie, where their cheerful fires at nightfall 
lit up the surrounding gloom. 

But few closed their eyes in the village that night. 
The slightest sound was anxiously listened for, and 
when morning broke and revealed no trace of the 
dreaded foe, the alarmed Indians breathed more 
freely, and felt as if a respite had been granted them. 

Relieved of the presence of so many idlers, our 
building was pushed on rapidly, and we congratu- 
lated ourselves on the prospect of having everything 
nearly finished before their return. They expected 
to be gone on this hunt about "one moon." 

The long line of the hunting-party had scarcely 
disappeared behind the swells of the distant prairie 
before a small war-party was discovered on the 
heights beyond the southern bend of the river. 



94 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

Their boldness in showing themselves in broad day- 
light led all to suppose that they were merely the 
scouts of a larger party, so numerous that they did 
not feel concealment necessary. The alarm w^as 
therefore great; the horses were hurried up to a safe 
distance, and every one prepared for the expected 
conflict. Another night of anxious suspense to the 
watchers in the village followed, and the morning 
light discovered three arrows shot into the body of 
a squaw upon one of the scaffolds. She had been 
the wife of old Ara-poo-she, the Rotten-Bear, an 
elderly Indian of immense corporation, and of the 
mildest and most inoff"ensive disposition possible. 

To the astonishment of every one, the Rotten- 
Bear appeared in a new character. Naked to the 
clout, with war-paint and weapons, he waddled 
around and harangued for all whose hearts were 
strong to follow him to glory or the grave, and 
avenge the wrong he had sustained in the insult 
offered to the body of his old woman. 

His futile rage and impassioned appeal to arms 
excited only laughter and ridicule ; for the Rotten- 
Bear was as harmless and far less off'ensive than his 
namesake could have been. Two or three turns 
around the village in the hot July sun took all 
martial spirit out of him, and when rallied about it, 
he seemed to consider it as rather a good joke than 
otherwise. 



PANIC. 95 

An interval of perfect quiet succeeded ; but it was 
the calm which precedes the storm. 

In the dead of night, (it was the tenth, I think, 
since the ISTickaway people had left,) we were all 
startled by a most unearthly noise and yelling in the 
village. It seemed as if every old hag and every 
dog had had their vocal powers strengthened a hun- 
dred-fold for the occasion, to say nothing of the yells 
of the men and reports of fire-arms. We concluded, 
as a matter of course, that our friends had one of 
their regular paroxysms of fear, when a number of 
guns were discharged in rapid succession, and amid 
the most tremendous uproar that I ever heard, we 
made out to learn that the hunters had been com- 
pletely routed by an immense war-party of Sioux, 
and a remnant only had succeeded in effecting their 
escape. 

Bull-boats were at once put into service, and the 
exhausted and panic-stricken fugitives were safely 
brought over. The " General's " eagerness to bring 
us the news was such that very few crossed before 
him. The poor fellow looked jaded and haggard, 
and the black handkerchief was disordered, as if by 
the sudden uprising of his hair. He was, in fact, 
completely demoralized. 

McBride, with the slighest possible approach to a 
smile, asked, ''Are all the horses back safe?" 



96 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

"Yes." "Did you bring a pretty good load of 
meat with you?" "I^one! I had to throw it all 
away when the Sionx faunced on us ? " "The Sioux 
faunced on you, did they, — how many did you kill 
of them? " (Great interest manifested by all of us 
to hear.) 

"Yesterday afternoon near sundown, we were 
camped near the Square Hills, when Red-Tail dis- 
covered the enemy rushing on us. Every Injin 
yelled and shouted and went on like mad, and some 
began to throw away their meat and got on their 
horses and mooshed for the village." "Did you yell 
any?" "Me! of course I did, — every one around 
was yell in' and screechin', and there was no use 
try in' to keep quiet." 

"I want to hear if any were killed." 

" Don't know. I let go my horses as fast as they 
could run: it was so dark you couldn't see ahead, 
and me and my woman fell into a deep hole ; it is 
terrible how my chest Is bruised." 

" Who was at the head of the party ? " 

" The Injins told a squaw to go ahead, as they 
could better spare a woman than a man if they fell 
into a trap." 

" You 've played on this hunt, sure," McBride 

remarked, — a conclusion to which we all assented, 
and left the "General" to take care of his inner 
man. 



THE DRY PUMPKIN HARANGUES. 97 

At early dawn the air resounded with the voice 
of the old Dry Pumpkin, haranguing, and calling 
upon every one to prepare to revenge the terrible 
defeat they had just sustained. 

" Men of the Hee-rae-an-seh, a black cloud covers 
our village with darkness. The Great Spirit is angry 
with us ; our hearts are buried deep in the ground. 
Where are our brave warriors ? Our women and 
children are crying. Rouse yourselves, sharpen 
your arrows and seek the enemy ! Strike them so 
hard with your tomahawks that both hands will 
hardly pull them out ! Make strong Medicine, and 
the Great Spirit will grant you a successful return 
with plenty of scalps and horses. Then will the 
women dance and not feel ashamed. Men of the 
Hee-rae-an-seh, if your hearts are strong, hear me ! 
It is I, the Dry Pumpkin, that speaks ; he is not a 
child any more ; his head is whitened with many 
snows. Rouse up, rouse up, young men ! if you are 
wise, listen to my words. Go and wipe out this dis- 
grace, or the Sioux will laugh at us and call us dogs 
and old women ! " 

In this strain the Dry Pumpkin continued ; walk- 
ing around the village, and occasionally mounting 
upon the tops of the lodges to make himself better 
heard. 

But unfortunately, his warlike antecedents were 
9 G 



98 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

by no means calculated to stir up a feeling of fiery- 
revenge among his people. In truth he might just 
as well have talked to the winds, for none listened 
to him. 

Years before, when a young man, as he was return- 
ing with his squaw and several Gros Ventres from a 
visit to the Crows on the Yellowstone, they were 
attacked by a war-party of Assinniboines. At the 
first sound of the conflict the Dry Pumpkin made 
off, and his hurry was such that he stopped not until 
he arrived at his village, where he told how his 
friends had been attacked by an overwhelming force 
of the enemy, and after a desperate struggle, he alone 
had effected his escape. It seems that the Dry 
Pumpkin ran away with such celerity that no arrow 
could possibly have flown fast enough to hit him, 
and his squaw, in attempting to keep him in sight, 
was overtaken, and ruthlessly butchered and scalped. 
As he had never ventured upon the war-path after 
this heroic achievement, his opinions and advice had 
very little weight. After haranguing until he was 
wellnigh exhausted, he came into my room complain- 
ing of feeling unwell, and asked for some medicine. 
I administered, accordingly, an enormous dose of 
Epsom salts, and saw nothing of him for several 
days, when he came crawling into my quarters again, 
leaning on a stick and looking considerably reduced. 



CAUSE OF THEPANIC. 99 

lie remarked simply that tlie medicine I had given 
him was " very strong." 

By-and-by the Gros Ventres showed signs of 
returning reason, and upon mustering their forces 
none were found missing ! All were safe, minus 
their stock of dry meat, which was lost owing to a 
senseless panic. They were in a splendid hunting- 
ground with every prospect of success, when one 
evening a smoke was discovered and also the form 
of a man, supposed to be a spy. 

The alarm was given, and the wildest confusion 
prevailed ; one frightened another, and amid the 
most heathenish yells and screams it was determined 
to move camp at once, and the pell-mell retreat com- 
menced. 

It was now ascertained that the fire had been 
kindled by one of their own hunters, who had been 
looking for a stray horse, and stopped to cook some 
deer's meat that he had killed. The ]N'ickaway was 
a complete failure ; their horses were run down and 
would require rest ; they had lost all their meat, and 
were in a starving condition again. 

U Of U 



CHAPTER IX. 

THE MANDANS MAKE THEIR GREAT BULL-MEDICINE — THE 
INVOCATION — THE MEDICINE LODGE — THE BULL-DANCE 

THE TORTURES — DIVERSIONS OF THE VILLAGERS 

INDIAN RELIGION. 

TO atone for the past, and in the hopes of pleasing 
the Great Spirit, so that He would send the 
buffalo close to their village again, the Indians 
determined to make their o:reat " Bull Medicine. " 

The necessary preparations for this important 
ceremony now engrossed the attention of the entire 
community. The squaws were busy in arranging 
a large and spacious lodge, and cleaning off the 
area in the centre of the village, where the princi- 
pal ceremonies and dances would take place. The 
making of this medicine occupies four days, during 
which time all who take part observe a strict fast. 

The first day, the old Mandan medicine man, 
A-mah-she-kee-ri-pe, the Buck Eagle, came into the 
fort, and seated himself upon a pile of lumber in the 
middle, followed by a crowd who arranged them- 
selves around at a respectful distance, while in a 

(100) 



THE MEDICINE LODGE. 101 

subdued and plaintive tone of voice he commenced 
an invocation to the Great Spirit. 

With the exception of a white wolf-skin over one 
shoulder, he was entirely naked. A fillet of the 
same was bound around each ankle, and two wolf's 
tails drasrsred from the heels of his moccasins. A 
cap made of a piece of white buftalo robe, trimmed 
with the claws and tail-feather of an eagle, covered 
his head; and his withered limbs were painted with 
red clay. Some trifling presents were placed before 
him, and after his adjuration was concluded, he 
gathered them carefully up and took his departure. 

In the afternoon of the second day, I went to the 
lodge where the ceremonies were going on. It was 
filled with young men, some of w^hom had passed 
•through the ordeal before, and w^ere now merely 
fasting. The others were those who were to undergo 
the terrible torture, and around the interior were 
arranged their shields, lances, and medicine bags. 
The men mostly reclined on their backs; and a few 
were even asleep. 

The Buck Eagle sat in the centre, near the 
embers of the fire, smoking a handsome pipe, and 
occasionally calling upon the Great Spirit. The 
warriors w^ho were to take part in the dance, w^ere 
painting their bodies with alternate bars of red and 
white, and dressing themselves in a piece of shaggy 

9* 



102 AMONG THE INDIANS. ' 

buffalo robe, with a large bunch of green willows 
bound on their backs, and smaller bunches in each 
hand. They represented the bulls, and were six in 
number. At regular intervals during the day, they 
came forth, and danced around the open area, or 
public square, in the middle of the village. In the 
centre of this area was a circular structure, resem- 
bling a very large hogshead. Suddenly the Buck 
Eagle appeared from the lodge, with his pipe in his 
hand, and leaning against the tub, commenced 
crying in a loud voice to the Great Spirit. Rattles 
sounded from within the lodge, and three men ran 
out in a crouching position, carrying drums garnished 
with feathers, and seated themselves on the ground 
close by him. Two others bearing rattles, followed ; 
and the signal was given for the dancers to appear, 
by a prolonged drumming and rattling. 

All the people of the village now congregated to 
witness this ceremony, which they considered their 
most important one (after the dance of the Calumet) 
and covered the tops of the surrounding lodges, 
from one of which I had an excellent view of the 
proceedings. The assemblage behaved with the 
utmost decorum ; there was no jostling or pushing, 
setting in this respect an example which could be 
followed with infinite advantage elsewhere. Then, 
from the medicine lodge, in pairs, with a jarring, 



THE BULL DANCE. 103 

shuffling step, in regular cadence, with their fantas- 
tic dresses of buffalo robes and willow boughs, came 
the bull-dancers, and commenced to circle slowly 
around the tub. On the afternoon of the third day, 
the most thrilling part of the ceremonies occurred. 
The rattles sounded, the drums beat, and the 
"bulls" executed their stamping, jarring dance 
with unwonted energy. The Raising-Heart con- 
ducted me to a seat upon a log among the dignita- 
ries of the tribe, and seated himself close by among 
some of his old cronies, with whom he kept up an 
animated conversation. All eyes were turned 
towards the Medicine Lodge, whence came pouring 
forth, and dispersing in all directions, a band of 
antelope, fifty or sixty in number. They were men 
and boys, of all sizes, entirely naked, and painted all 
over with white clay. Willow twigs were bound on 
their heads, in the shape of, and to represent horns. 
There were also frogs and several nondescript animals. 
After dancing for about twenty minutes, the bulls 
suddenly broke away in different directions, mostly ,. 
taking their course through the groups of women 
and young girls, who scattered upon their approach, 
with screams of laughter, to lodges, where refresh- 
ments, consisting chiefly of boiled mush, were pre- 
pared for them. Buck Eagle and his musicians 
returned at once to their lodge ; and after eating, the 



104 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

bulls followed their example, to repeat the dance 
within an interval of half an hour. 

The band of antelopes rushed hither and thither, 
anywhere and everywhere : one moment on the tops 
of the lodges, the next, dashing through the groups 
of squaws, and then clustered together, plotting fresh 
mischief. The frogs kept near the big tub, around 
which they danced and hopped in a most grotesque 
manner. An old woman now came forward with a 
large wooden bowl of mush, which she handed to 
one of the frogs ; but scarcely has he lifted it to his 
mouth ere it is snatched from him by an antelope, 
w^hen the rest of the band dash forward, and in the 
scuffle that follows, the earth receives most of it, 
while the old woman retreats with feigned indigna- 
tion to her lodge. 

In retaliation for this insult, and with more agility 
than one would suppose them to possess, the frogs 
pursue the antelopes ; but seldom succeed in over- 
taking them. Another old woman now comes for- 
ward with another bowl of mush ; but before she has 
advanced many steps, an antelope trots up quickly 
behind her, and suddenly snatching it out of her 
hands, attempts to swallow it, but is thwarted in 
this by his companions, and the mush is again spilt. 

Sometimes, however, the old woman, will turn 
suddenly round, and throw the mush over such 



THE TORTURES. 105 

antelopes as happen to be near; which exploit is 
hailed with intense satisfaction by the squaws. 

So the sports go bravely on ; while the bulls keep 
up their dance with unabated vigor. But there is a 
pause — as one by one, in Indian file, with slow and 
measured tread, forth from the Medicine Lodge 
come the young men who have been fasting. 

All are naked, with the exception of a scarlet 
breechcloth ; and their bodies and hmbs are painted 
with yellow clay. Each one carries a lance decorated 
with fluttering pennons, and war-eagle feathers, and a 
faneifully-painted and garnished shield is slung over 
the shoulder. 

They looked emaciated, but showed no si^ns of 
weariness, walking with a slow but firm step to the 
middle of the area, where they prostrated themselves 
in a regular line, with their faces flat to the ground, 
and continued thus in silent prayer to the Great 
Spirit for about a quarter of an hour. The bulls 
still kept up their dance; but the sports of the ante- 
lopes had for the time ceased, and they clustered in 
groups on the tops of the lodges, silent and attentive 
spectators. Slowly rising from the ground, the 
young men retraced their steps to the lodge. 

The bulls now exerted themselves vigorously, the 
antelopes resumed their pranks, and two old war- 
riors, Chae-shah-ou-ketty (the Bob-Tail Wolf), and 



106 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

Mush-shuka-hoy-tucky (the White Dog), emerged 
from the Medicine Lodge, closely followed by a couple 
of the young men. Going up to two stout poles 
about twelve feet high and firmly planted in the 
ground, they disengaged cords of raw hide hanging 
from them. One of the young men knelt at the foot 
1 of the pole, resting his thighs on his heels; and 
throwing his head back, and his breast forward, sup- 
ported himself in this position by his hands. The 
old men now, one on either side, with a common 
butcher-knife cut through the skin and flesh on each 
breast, and thrusting splints under the sinews, at- 
tached the thongs to them. The other young man 
was quickly served in the same way. 'Not a muscle 
of their countenances changed expression, and not 
a sound escaped their lips while this painful opera- 
tion was in progress. Each rose to his feet, and 
throwing the whole weight of his body upon the 
cords, with the blood streaming from the wounds, 
tried to tear himself loose.' One, as soon as he 
was left alone, sprang wildly to the full length 
of the cords, and then hanging with his full weight 
upon the sinews of his breast, swung back, striking 
the post violently. 

Again and again he swung himself off, and around 
the pole, calling in the most agonizing tones to the 
Great Spirit, and praying that he might hereafter be 



THE TORTURES. 107 

a successful warrior and hunter, and that his heart 
might be "made strong" to enable him to bear his 
present sufferings. After being self-tortured in this 
way for some time, he fainted, and hung, to all ap- 
pearances, entirely dead. 

The strain on the splints finally tore them out, and 
he fell to the ground ; when his relations came for- 
ward and took him in charge, carrying him off to a 
lodge, where, after he revived, food would be ready 
for him, and he might then receive the congratula- 
tions of his friends. 

The other youth uttered not a word ; he was quite 
young, not more than seventeen or eighteen, and 
for some time walked around the pole, shrinking 
from the fearful test. At last, having nerved him- 
self up to it, he suddenly swung off with all his 
strength ; and returning, struck the post with such' 
violence that he too fainted, and hung, a sickening 
si^ht, with the blood streaming from his self-inflicted 
wounds. 

In no instance can the splints be pulled out ; to do 
so would be fatal to the " medicine." In some 
ca«es where the sinew is very strong, it is necessary 
to suspend them entirely off their feet, and even 
increase the weight by hanging buffalo skulls to their 
limbs. One Indian was compelled to walk around 
for nearly an entire day, dragging after him six or 



108 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

eight buffalo skulls. All who can pass through 
this ordeal without flinching, are looked upon as 
brave men, and strong-hearted warriors and hunters. 
The Four-Bears himself had gone through it four 
or five times, as the scars on his breast and limbs 
testified. 

The fourth and closing day was mostly a repetition 
of the third. Those of the young men who had not 
succeeded in tearing themselves loose from the 
poles, were dragged in a circle by the hands, until 
the buffalo skulls fastened to their legs were torn 
out by the violence of the race ; and it has happened 
more than once, that the tough sinew defying every 
efibrt to break it, rendered it necessary for the 
unfortunate sufferer to crawl off on the prairie, and 
there remain until it had rotted completely out. 

It is not my purpose, beyond a few general 
remarks, to enter into any speculations or theories 
as to the origin of this, or other rites and ceremonies. 
I shall confine myself to narrating simply and accu- 
rately, such scenes and incidents in Indian life as 
came under mv notice ; for the reason that all such 
speculations and theories would be for the most 
part vague and unsatisfactory. 

There are of course exceptions, but the majority 
of the interpreters, through whom such information 
can only be obtained, are usually ignorant, unlettered 



INDIAN RELIGION. 109 

men, who have originally been brought into the 
country as common voyageurs, and after a time, 
preferring the lazy life of the Indians, they fall into 
their ways, and thus by degrees pick up enough of 
the language for ordinary intercourse. It cannot be 
expected, therefore, that interpreters of such limited 
intelligence would be able to enter into lengthened 
and profound explanations of these and kindred 
observances, however well fitted they may be to 
act the part of translators. 

When not in the employ of either company they 
live with the Indians, whose estimation of them is 
measured only by their ability to make presents, and 
keep their squaw-wives and their interminable set 
of " cousins" well dressed and provided for. 

The Bull Medicine is intended to ask the blessing 
of the Great Spirit upon the tribe, but more espe- 
cially upon the participants. That they may have ^ 
plenty of buffalo close to the village, so that they 
need not go far away and .be in danger from their 
enemies. Also that success in war and horse- 
stealing may be granted them, and they may thus 
become distinguished among their people. 

Their fasts and self-imposed tortures are public 

evidences of the sincerity of their belief, and faith 

in the power of the Great Spirit to support them in 

these terrible trials, and hear their supplications. 

10 



110 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

I have always considered the l^orth American In- 
dians a highly religious people, according to the 
light they have : they practise as well as preach. 

They all believe in an overruling Power, which 
they call the Great Spirit, and that He dwells in a 
beautiful country beyond the skies. To go to this 
beautiful country, or "Happy Hunting-Ground," is 
the crowning point of an Indian's hope ; it is his 
expected reward for the faithful fulfilment of his 
obligations to the Great Spirit during life, by steal- 
ing horses, taking scalps, and general success as a 
warrior and hunter. 

There he will be rewarded for all his trials and 
privations on earth; there it will be always early 
summer-time ; the grass will ever be green and fresh, 
watered by cool mountain springs. Game will abound 
in the greatest profusion, and the hunter need never 
fear the whizzing arrow or whistling bullet of 
his foe. His lodge will always be amply stored, his 
wives will raise abundant crops of corn and pump- 
kins, and his children never cry for hunger. All 
will be contentment and happiness. 

But, on the other hand, if he has excited the dis- 
pleasure of the Great Spirit by refusing to undergo 
the " Medicine " ordeal, by laziness in war and the 
chase, and by his general worthlessness and neglect 
of all his duties, he will go to a land abounding with 
enemies, where he will sufter hunger and cold. 



INDIAN RELIGION. Ill 

There, it is always night, and snow thickly covers 
the ground ; and as if to add to the horrors of his 
condition, he will be tantalized by the sight of the 
" happy hunting-grounds," whose secure enjoyments 
might have been his. 

Thus it will be seen that the Indians look to a 
future existence, either of weal or woe, as their con- 
duct during life may determine. Their numerous 
dances and ceremonies are but feasts and fasts to 
please the Great Spirit, and ask a continuance of 
blessings. 

Thus their religion is essentially the same as that 
of more enlightened nations, differing only in the 
mode of its observance. 



CHAPTER X. 

war's ALARUMS — PANIC AMONG THE SQUAWS — THE FORT 
INVADED — A MIXED-UP STATE OF AFFAIRS — " ALL 'S 
WELL." 

THE great " Bull Medicine " having been made to 
the satisfaction of all, it now remained to be 
seen what effect it would have upon the Great Spirit. 
Day after day passed, and still there was no sign of 
the near approach of buffalo. The chiefs and old 
men were generally of the same opinion : that the 
"medicine" was sufficiently strong, and the Great 
Spirit would soon send them an abundance. 

Many, on the other hand, including most of the 
young and impetuous braves, took an entirely dif- 
ferent view of it. It was, however, agreed that 
before any further steps were taken in the matter, a 
proper amount of patience and self-denial should be 
exercised, in consequence of which decision there 
was a brief period of general repose and inactivity. 
But it did not last long. 

One day, towards the middle of the afternoon, an 
alarm was raised that a large war-party of Sioux on 
horseback had been seen lurking among the distant 

fll2) 



war's alarums. 113 

bluffs that loomed up beyond the expanse of prairie 
in the rear of the village. An instant and terrible 
uproar was the natural consequence of this unex- 
pected discovery. 

The "medicine" was strong; of that there was 
no lono^er the slio^htest doubt. The buffalo had been 
sent; but the approach of this war-party had run 
them off. Universal consternation arose: the men 
yelled, the women screamed, and the dogs howled 
lustily, while the scouts and horse-guards were 
riding to and fro over the prairie with the utmost 
activity, collecting the scattered bands of horses, 
and rushing them at full speed towards the village. 

The clouds of dust raised by the hoofs of the 
excited horses partially obscured objects on the 
prairie, and the commotion soon reached the highest 
pitch. Powder, balls, and flints were in the greatest 
demand, and as the shades of evening closed around, 
the frightened squaws came into both forts, bringing 
their dresses, medicine-bags, and valuables for safe- 
keeping, looking upon the capture and plunder of 
their village as a settled thing. 

The Dry Pumpkin, the Snakeskin, and the Long 
Hair, went about and harangued for the fighting- 
men to '' strike for their altars and their fires," and 
teach the rascally Sioux a lesson that they would not 
forget for many a day. A dilapidated chimney, the 
10* H 



114 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

last remains of the old fort, was torn down by the 
squaws, by order of the Dry Pumpkin, so that "no 
enemy could be concealed behind it." 

Our corral was literally packed with as many 
horses as it could possibly hold. The gates of the 
fort were shut at the usual hour and strongly barri- 
caded, and every one looked well to his weapons, 
and prepared them for immediate service. It was 
not considered necessary for us to mount a regular 
guard, as all the Indians would be on the qui vive. 
Paquenaude got ready for action by tying his favorite 
black handkerchief round his head and giving his 
gun a fresh load, after which he took his station, 
fully prepared for the worst. 

The evening was remarkably beautiful. The soft 
moonlight fell with striking effect upon the wild 
figures in the area of the fort, and grim warriors 
stalked silently about grasping their ready weapons. 
The half-alarmed horses in the corral crowded rest- 
lessly together; the squaws and children huddled 
here and there in groups, with their valuables close 
by, and a retinue of their favorite dogs sleeping 
quietly beside them. The women talked in low 
tones about the expected attack, and expressed great 
fears lest their cornfields, upon which they had 
expended so much toil, would be destroyed by the 
ruthless invaders. 

As the evening wore on, they crowded into the 



A MIXED-UP AERANGEMENT. 115 

houses until all vacant nooks and corners were filled 
with valuables, and every available foot of space on 
the floors occupied by recumbent forms, too anxious 
to close their eyes in sleep. 

The Bourgeois' house was manifestly the favorite. 
" Crowd in " was the order, and it was carried out 
to the strictest letter, and with such a will that it 
was almost impossible to move without treading on 
the graceful proportions of some Indian maiden. 

The night was warm and close, and the effluvia 
arising from the closely packed bodies of the highly- 
scented squaws was infinitely stronger than agree- 
able. 

It was late when I thought of retiring, and found 
that beyond making my bed a general repository 
for miscellaneous articles, it was otherwise unen- 
cumbered. I laid down, after merely removing my 
pouch and powder-horn, and in trying to stretch out 
my feet, struck something which I took to be a buf- 
falo-robe closely folded, and without more cere- 
mony kicked it on the floor. In falling it struck 
with some violence the rotund form of an ancient 
squaw, and commenced crying out with a vigor that 
fully proved the strength of its lungs and general 
soundness of constitution. 

A commotion among the females was the natural 
consequence of my inadvertently kicking a baby out 
of bed, and all the other infants (of which I thought 



116 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

there was a goodly number) added their full quota 
of music to the concert. By degrees everything 
quieted down again, but I felt constrained to lie 
very quietly, not knowing but that the slightest 
movement on my part might result in a similar 
catastrophe, and the remaining bundles on my 
domain (whether living or otherwise) remained 
undisturbed. 

At midnight, Paquenaude came to the door and 
hurriedly whispered, "The Sioux are. coming!" 
An Indian had crept over from the village and 
reported that the enemy were now cutting and 
destroying the cornfields. All were immediately 
on the alert, and a sleepless vigilance was main- 
tained the rest of the night. The morning dawned 
bright and clear, and revealed no traces of the rav- 
ages of the foe. Not till the sun was high, how- 
ever, were the horses driven forth to feed, and even 
then they were not allowed to go more than a few 
hundred yards from the pickets of the village. 

The coi^fields were not disturbed in the least, 
and when the mounted scouts returned, after an 
extended reconnoissance, without having discovered 
the slightest trace of an enemy, it was generally 
admitted to have been another false alarm. 

A feeling of security being once more restored, 
the squaws removed their valuables to their lodges, 
and matters went on as usual. 



CHAPTER XL 

HUNTING — HARVESTING CORN — DRUDGERY OF THE SQUAWS 

ASSINNIBOINES ARRIVE — JOURNEY TO THEIR CAMP — 

INCIDENTS BY THE WAY — GAMBLING — TROUBLES OF A 

LAME ASSINNIBOINE — SQUAW MURDERS HER CHILD 

BUFFALO BULL KILLED — PRAIRIE DELICACIES WILD 

FOWL — A FAIRY DELL — CAMP DISCOVERED — ARRIVAL. 

IT was now the latter end of summer, and I passed 
a great deal of my time in hunting. It was, 
however, almost too early in the season, and from 
the numbers of Indian hunters on the range, game 
was very scarce and wild. 

About three miles above the village, after passing 
through a heavy forest of cottonwood, my favorite 
hunting- trail led out upon a beautiful prairie bottom 
with a swift watercourse flowing through it, which 
terminated in a lake. In the spring and fall, wild 
fowl in great numbers and of every variety, were 
here to be found, and Paquenaude and I enjoyed 
excellent sport. The ducks were now in their 
prime, as fat as butter, and made very acceptable 

additions to our larder. 

(117) 



118 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

The Indians went out to surround just often 
enough to keep from starving ; but the green corn 
was fast ripening, and, with the quantities of small 
game daily brought in by the hunters, we fared 
luxuriously. 

The only wild-prairie Indians that raise corn are 
the Riccarees, Mandans, and Minnetarees. It is a 
species of Canada corn, very hardy and of quick 
growth. It is of all colors ; red, black, blue, yellow, 
purple, and white ; sometimes a single ear presents 
a combination of all these hues. When boiled green, 
with rich buffalo marrow spread on it, (instead of 
butter,) it is very sweet, and truly delicious. 

The squaws have a busy time harvesting. It is a 
season of joy and festivity with them, when their 
long and patient labor is finally rewarded by an 
abundant crop. In the spring, as soon as the frost 
is out of the ground, the women break up their 
patches of land. Every foot must be turned up and 
loosened with the hoe, a slow and toilsome operation. 
After the corn is planted and begins to come up, 
slender fences of willow are necessary to prevent 
the horses from destroying the tender blades. These 
willows have to be carried on the backs of the 
women a long distance, a few at a time, until a suffi- 
cient quantity for the purpose is collected. While 
the operation of breaking ground, planting, and 



DRUDGERY OF THE SQUAWS. 119 

fencing is going on, wood has also to be carried for 
the lodges; for those great, round, earth-covered 
dwellings of the Minnetarees are very chilly during 
the early damp spring weather, requiring much fuel 
for warming, as well as cooking. 

Day after day, until it was gathered in, the corn 
must be regularly hoed, more to counteract the 
effect of drought than to keep down weeds. For on 
these dry and elevated plains, rain seldom falls 
after the spring has passed. 

All these duties devolve upon the women ; hence 
it will be seen that when an Indian has a plurality 
of wives he is enabled to live by the distribution of 
their labor in comparative ease and comfort. From 
early morn until sunset, the squaws, old and young, 
may be seen, passing to and from their cornfields, 
with rudely woven willow baskets slung on their 
backs, in which they carry the corn to their lodges. 

Fires are blazing in all directions ; around which 
gather merry groups to feast on boiled and roasted 
ears. When the harvest is gathered in, the ears of 
corn are plaited into a "trace " (like a rope of onions) 
and hung upon scaffolds to dry. The variegated 
hues of the often tastefully arranged " traces " hang- 
ing from the scaffolds, give the village a gay and 
holiday appearance. 

Each family reserves a number of the choicest 



120 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

ears to make sweet corn for winter use. It is first 
parboiled ; the grains are then carefully picked off 
the cob and dried in the sun upon a piece of lodge 
skin. Prepared thus, it retains all its juices and 
flavor, and will keep unimpaired almost any length 
of time. It is then put away in skin bags, and care- 
fully hoarded for use on special occasions, or in 
times of scarcity. The "trace" corn is cdched — a 
hole is dug in the ground usually near the lodge, 
some six or eight feet in depth ; small at the top, 
but widening as it deepens, much resembling a jug 
in shape. Hay is next strewn over the bottom and 
sides, and when the corn is thoroughly dried, it is 
taken down from the scaffolds and packed aw^ay. 
The cdche is filled up with hay, dirt is then thrown 
on and firmlj^ trodden down, and every sign care- 
fully obliterated. Each family has one or more of 
these eddies, and as they leave their summer vil- 
lage early in the fall for winter quarters, the corn 
remains undiscovered and undisturbed until their 
return in the spring. They also raise black beans, 
pumpkins, and squashes ; but in spite of these vege- 
table resources, hemmed in as they often are by 
enemies, and consequently unable to obtain by 
hunting a full supply of buffalo meat, they some- 
times suffer greatly for food. Well may the season 
of green corn be one of festivity and gladness, for it 



ASSINNIBOINES ARRIVE. 121 

is then only that the women enjoy a brief respite 
from their severe toil. 

About the middle of September, a party of thirty 
Assinniboines arrived to visit the Gros Ventres. 
The new-comers had been sent from a camp known 
as "the band of Canoes," by the chief, "Broken 
Arm," to beg a "little tobacco," (i. e. a handsome 
present) from the traders, and induce them, if pos- 
sible, to send to their camp on the River of Lakes, 
about three days travel, to traffic for such robes 
and skins as they had on hand at present, of which 
they declared of course that they had a great plenty. 
Quite a number of Gros Ventres decided to embrace 
this opportunity of visiting the Assinniboine camp, 
to smoke the pipe of peace and friendship, and 
exchange horses. Our Bourgeois thinking it would 
be profitable, determined also to send an expedition. 

That night, after closing the gates, we began pre- 
paring a small but well-assorted outfit, and drew 
rations for a ten days' journey, the length of time 
we expected to be gone. Roasting cofiee comprised 
most of this preparation, and we soon had every- 
thing in readiness to leave at daybreak. 

Bright and early we were up, the wagon loaded, 

and our horses harnessed and saddled, so that before 

the sun had fairly risen, we were several miles on 

our journey, taking a northerly direction. I had 

11 



122 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

charge of the party, which consisted of Paquenaude 
for interpreter, and a long-haired mountaineer named 
Bostwick. We soon overtook some of the Assinni- 
boines, who were all on foot, and travelled along 
together in the best possible humor. 

One old fellow took the lead, dragging a broken- 
down bay horse heavily packed with corn, the gift 
of his Gros Ventres friends. He kept up a measured 
jog the livelong day, with his eyes steadily fixed on 
a distant butte or pile of stones, landmarks by which 
he shaped his course, seemingly oblivious of the ex- 
istence of any beings beside himself and his forlorn 
steed. At noon we halted by a little spring of clear 
water, and turned the horses loose to graze at will, 
while we regaled ourselves with some cold meat, and 
after a short rest proceeded on our way. 

Our route led us through a rather uninteresting 
country, chiefly high rolling prairie, totally destitute 
of timber. 

Early in the afternoon, we crossed a fork of a creek 
called Rising Water, and encamped to await the 
arrival of the rest of our fellow-travellers, who had 
been detained by some dancing and other ceremonies 
at the village. 

Our horses were hobbled and turned loose-^with 
trailing lariats, so that they could be caught up at a 
moment's warning ; and resting our guns against the 



PREPARINGSUPPER. 123 

wagons, with powder-horns and bullet-pouches hang- 
ing from the muzzles, we began our preparations for 
supper. 

The Assinniboines who were in company had but 
the one forlorn steed to look after, and all of us were 
Boon busied in collecting dry buffalo chips for our 
camp-fire, there being no wood within miles. Before 
long it was blazing cheerily, and Paquenaude leav- 
ing Bostwick to pile on the chips, took the coffee 
pot and filled it with brackish water from the creek. 
Our coffee having been roasted before leaving the 
fort, I put a little into a leathern bag, and pounded 
it with an axe on the tire of a wheel, until it was 
crushed sufiSciently fine for our purpose. By our 
united exertions, our supper, consisting of co^ee 
and dry buffalo meat slightly warmed through, was 
soon ready, and as quickly dispatched. The Assinni- 
boines built a separate fire, and as they had no coffee 
to make, finished their meal before we did. At dusk 
the rest of our party joined us, consisting of sixty 
Gros Ventres, and the remaining Assinniboines, all 
well mounted, and leading extra pack-horses. 

The Four-Bears with his favorite squaw, the 
Hawk, and several other principal men, rode up. 
The^rst eager inquiry of the Four-Bears before un- 
saddling, was, "Have you made coffee yet? " 

The horses were driven up, and secured for the 



124 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

night by being either hobbled or picketed, our 
arms examined, and enough bufialo chips collected 
to keep a little fire throughout the night. The 
Assinniboines gathered around, and commenced 
playing a game of hand, while the Gros Ventres 
boiled a kettle of sweet corn, of which, after it was 
cooked, the whole party were invited to partake. 
Two of the Assinniboines were so absorbed in their 
game that they kept on playing in preference to in- 
dulging in the (to them) unwonted luxury of green 
corn. After the feast was over, we wrapped our- 
selves in our blankets ; and the last sounds I heard 
before losing consciousness were those made by the 
horses cropping the short rich grass, and the monot- 
onous chant "heh-ah-heh" of the gamblers. 

Toward morning we were roused up by a cold 
driving rain, and throwing fresh chips on the fire, 
prepared our breakfast of coffee and meat, so that 
by daylight we ^vere en route again. 

The morning was bitterly cold and raw; and we 
rode with our robes and blankets wrapped closely 
around us. We travelled at a rapid pace, and an 
old lame Assinniboine, who had been residing with 
his family among the Gros Ventres during the win- 
ter, and had embraced this opportunity of returning 
to his people, found it exceedingly difficult to hobble 
along fast enough. 



A CHILD MURDERED. 125 

He had one horse and a travee, upon which his 
three children and all his worldly goods were trans- 
ported. His squaw led the wretched animal, and 
old "Lousey," as the matter-of-fact Bostwick styled 
the unfortunate Assinniboine, toiled painfully along 
in the rear, using such exertions to keep up that the 
perspiration rolled in streams down his rueful coun- 
tenance, notwithstanding the chilliness of the morn- 
ing. All his efforts, however, were in vain, and he 
was finally left behind, loudly protesting against 
being abandoned in such a dangerous country, and 
so far from his people's camp. 

A squaw with three small children was also left; 
she carried one on her back, and another in her 
arms, while the eldest trotted along by her side. 
Some time after, a young Indian who had loitered 
behind came up and reported that the squaw had 
just killed the youngest *^ because it was too small 
to travel." 

A grizzly bear was discovered a short distance 

from the line of march, but the whole party were in 

too much of a hurry to run the risk of delay by 

attacking him, so he was not disturbed. Our course 

took us through a most barren and uninteresting 

country, abounding in rugged hills and dales, 

making it very laborious for the wagon-team. Our 

advance roused two lean old buffalo bulls, and the 
11* 



126 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

partisan or leader of the Assinniboines, the Eed 
Snow, gave chase, and killed one after a short and 
spirited dash. When we reached the place w^here 
the animal had fallen, only a few hundred yards off, 
he was already butchered, and half a dozen hungry 
savages stood over the carcass, greedily devouring 
the warm and quivering flesh. A halt was made, 
the horses turned loose, a fire of dried bufiklo dung 
kindled, and in almost the twinkling of an eye the 
kettle was boiling. The meat was so warm and 
fresh as to require very little cooking ; it was too 
fresh, in fact, to be good. 

As a titbit, the Four-Bears' squaw made a 
" houdin,*' i. e. an intestine filled with chopped meat 
like a sausage, but without seasoning of any kind. 
In the preparation of this dainty morceau, economy 
both of time and labor was well studied ; for, as the 
intestine was gradually filled up at one end, the 
original contents were forced out at the other. A 
few moments' immersion in the kettle sufficed to 
cook it, and a much shorter time was required for 
the surrounding epicures to discuss it, which they 
did with indescribable gusto. 

This delectable meal over, we were off again, 
leaving a fine feast for the wolves, whose forms could 
everywhere be seen sneaking over the adjacent hills. 
The whole affair — the run, the butchering, cooking, 
and eating — did not occupy an hour. 



CHEERLESS CAMP. 1^7 

We toiled on until afternoon, when a cold, driving 
storm of sleet and rain set in. At one time it was 
so severe that the horses turned their tails to it and 
refused to proceed; whereupon, wrapping our robes 
and blankets around us for protection, we patiently 
waited until it should abate a little. The Indians 
lit their pipes and enjoyed a social smoke, and as 
soon as the storm moderated we hastened on as 
quickly as possible to make up for lost time. When 
evening came, cold, tired, and hungry, we made our 
camp at the head of Shell Creek, the scanty fire of 
buffalo chips not warming us, but merely serving to 
boil some of the bull-meat and coffee. Quickly 
dispatching our supper, we turned in and slept 
soundly, with the exception of several of the 
Indians, whose fears led them to expect being 
rushed upon during the night by a war-party. My 
slumbers were not the less sound for having such 
vigilant sentinels 

We started early the next morning as usual, but 
in crossing Shell Creek one of the wagon-horses 
mired and fell, and was only extricated after much 
trouble and delay. The country still continued bad 
for wagons; it abounded in innumerable lakes or 
ponds of stagnant water, and all more or less highly 
flavored with buffalo urine. Wild fowl were present 
in countless numbers, and as they were very fat at 



128 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

this season, we enjoyed rare sport, and feasted in 
true hunter style. So plenty were they, and so 
tame, that it was like shooting into a flock of barn- 
yard fowls ; but no more were killed than we act- 
ually wanted. 

Buffalo were plenty about the head of Knife 
River, but no stop was made for hunting, as they 
were yet poor and thin, and plenty of ducks could 
be obtained with but little trouble. 

The sun, which had been hidden behind dark 
and threatening clouds all the morning, adding to 
the indescribable dreariness and desolation of the 
wild and barren landscape, suddenly shone out in 
all his splendor, just as we were about to leave the 
ridge and descend the sloping prairie to the crossing 
of the river, at this place not more than fifty feet 
wide. The grass looked greener and fresher than 
on the sterile plains we had quitted, and a few 
stunted trees growing on the margin of the little 
stream, the first which had been seen since leaving 
the Missouri, and the towering bluffs by which the 
valley was surrounded on all sides, added greatly to 
the extreme beauty of this fairy dell. I reined in 
my horse to admire its quiet and seclusion. Bands 
of buffalo were scattered here and there ; some 
grazing, others rolling, and evidently enjoying them- 
selves, while many were indolently lying down 



TOILET OF THE FOUR- BEARS. 129 

ruminating. A large band of antelopes started up 
and fled swiftly away. 

The wind was blowing from us, and the buffalo 
sniffing the tainted air, sprang to their feet, and 
rapidly disappeared over the distant bluffs. As we 
climbed the steep heights after crossing the river, I 
looked back. The scene was changed. The fairy 
dell was deserted, and had relapsed into its former 
stillness without sight or sound of animal life. Con- 
tinuing on, this enchanting scene was shut out from 
my sight, but not from my memory, by the rugged 
defiles through which our course lay. After wind- 
ing around lakes, and passing through gloomy 
ravines, we made our noon halt beside a pond of 
water, so brackish and stinking that our thirsty 
horses refused to drink. From here the Red- 
Snow said we ought soon to see the Assiuniboine 
camp, and the Indians busied themselves in making 
their toilets. Four-Bears painted the face of his 
favorite squaw (the only one that had accompanied 
him on this trip) with vermilion, and then his own in 
true warrior style. His long hair, which had been 
clubbed up behind for convenience, was loosened 
and carefully combed out. He then dressed him- 
self in his splendid shirt ornamented with long 
scalp-locks and dyed horse-hair. When all these 
preparations were completed, we resumed our jour- 



130 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

ney, and after some hard scrambling got clear of 
the "mauvaises terreSy" and stood upon the ^'coteau 
de prairie^'" the great dividing ridge that separates 
the tributaries of the Missouri from those of the 
Red River of the I^orth. 

Here the Red-Snow called a halt and consulted 
with his comrades as to where the camp was likely 
to be. A butte was pointed out a few hundred 
yards off*, near to which the chief expected to find 
it, but not a sign was visible. In vain our eyes 
swept the prairie, until dimmed with the intensity 
of our gaze we could no longer distinguish in the 
distance the faint line that marked the meeting of 
earth and sky. A pipe was lit and smoked ; after 
which we climbed to the top of the highest butte, 
whence by the aid of my spy-glass we had the 
satisfaction of discovering a number of barely dis- 
tinguishable points against the sky, which the 
Indians unhesitatingly pronounced to be the lodges 
of the Assinniboines. Whether we could reach 
them by nightfall was the question. They were a 
long distance off^ and our horses were jaded, but it 
was determined to make the attempt. The whole 
party pushed forward vigorously ; some of the 
Indians singing, and all rejoiced at the approaching 
termination of our trip. I was riding alongside of 
the Red-Snow, when he called up one of his young 



ARRIVE AT THE CAMP. 131 

men, and ordered him to precede 'us, and announce 
our coming at the camp. The fellow was on foot 
(like most of his party) and had been trotting along 
for the last hour at a brisk gait, but he immediately 
quickened his step and went on ahead. A dark 
line of trees marked our approach to a running 
stream, the River of Lakes ; it was a fork of Mouse 
River, and for a wonder in this part of the country, 
had a hard rocky bottom making a very good crossing. 
Toiling up the steep and stony bluffs on the opposite 
shore, we reached the Inroad plateau that stretches 
away to Mouse River, about half a day's further 
travel. Our party, instead of keeping in a compact 
body, was strung out over the prairie, the footmen 
well in advance and the special messenger far ahead 
of all. 

The conical skin lodges were now plainly in 
sight, not more than five miles off, and Indians 
galloped out from the camp to meet us and escort us 
in. Buffalo, they said, were plenty ; nearly all the 
hunters were away surrounding, and had not yet 
returned. Crowds of women and children rushed out, 
attracted by the novelty and rattling of the wagon 
as we drove up to the chief's lodge. The old man 
was out with the hunters, but his squaw stirred 
around and soon carried everything inside, so that 
when we returned from watering and picketing our 



132 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

horses near by, the kettle was already on the fire, 
and a delicious hos (or hump ribs) cooking. 

By the time supper was eaten the hunters returned, 
and the squaws were busy unloading the meat and 
taking care of the horses. The dogs, which were 
very numerous, as is particularly the case in an 
Assinniboine camp, hailed the arrival of so much 
meat with a series of prolonged howls. 

After smoking a pipe with our host, and briefly 
detailing to him the principal news, we rolled our- 
selves in our blankets ancj slept soundly, without 
being troubled by the abundant insect life with 
which an Assinniboine lodge is especially favored, 
or by the proximity of several squaws, members of 
the chief's family. 



CHAPTER XII. 

SCENES IN CAMP — FEAST — COUNCIL — TRADE — ON THE 
HOMEWARD TRAIL — DESOLATE COUNTRY — HOSTILE 

"signs" INDIAN CRAFT ^ THE COMET RETURN TO 

THE POST BATTLE WITH THE SIOUX — THE DOCTOR 

CARRIED IN A BLANKET. 

THE sun was high when we rose next morning, 
and after inspecting our horses (which were 
under the chiefs care), returned to the lodge for 
hreakfast. Large bands of bufialo were in plain 
sight from the encampment, and the hunters went 
out to surround again. The squaws were cutting 
up the meat which had been brought in, the day 
before, in thin sheets, and drying it on poles resting 
on crotches. Two or three of them would sit down 
with a piece of skin between them, upon which the 
meat was placed. They wore the usual elegant 
style of dress which appeared to be the mode with 
the ladies of the Canoe band of Assinniboines ; viz., 
a garment of skin originally ample, but from being 
frequently taxed to furnish material for patching 
moccasins, it had become very low in the neck, 

12 (133) 



134 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

very short in the sleeves, and of so scant a pattern 
that it was in many instances a mere apology for a 
covering. 

Chatting and laughing all the time, they cut the 
masses of meat with wonderful quickness and skill, 
into large and thin sheets, with the fat judiciously 
mixed, and then hung it over the poles to dry. 
After exposure for a couple of days to the sun and 
pure air of the prairies, the meat turns black and 
hard, and in this condition will keep for a long time 
perfectly good. The best meat is made in the win- 
ter; it is then fatter, and is partially dried in the 
smoke of the lodges, which greatly improves its 
flavor. 

The encampment was in the middle of an open 
plain, without a stick of timber in sight, and the 
superannuated squaws sat in the shade of the lodges, 
nursing the children and scolding at the dogs, who 
kept prowling around watching their chances to 
steal. Other squaws were scraping the hair from 
the buflfalo skins, and dressing them to make new 
lodges, of which by the way very many families 
were sadly in need. Some had cut down their 
lodges little by little to supply pressing demands, 
until there was barely enough lijft for a shelter. 
Sixteen skins sewed together with sinews, somewhat 
in the form of a cloak, and stretched over a frame- 



FEAST. 135 

work of poles, form a very fair-sized lodge, sufficiently 
large to accommodate eight or ten persons with 
their effects. But, owing to the scarcity of horses 
among this bandof Assinniboines, and the necessity 
of using dogs as their beasts of burden, most of the 
lodges consisted of from six to ten skins only. 

At this time they were comparatively rich, having 
recently concluded a treaty of peace with their old 
enemies the Gros Ventres of the Prairie, (a band of 
Blackfeet,) and obtained a number of horses from 
them in exchange for the annuities which they had 
received from Government. 

While strolling around, I caught a glimpse of 
Bostwick eating in one of the lodges, and trying to 
make himself agreeable to a rather fine-looking 
squaw. In the '' Broken Arm's " lodge, Paquenaude 
was preparing a "feast," to be given at the Council 
which we intended to hold with the principal men 
in the evening, after their return from the surround. 

When the feast was ready, the camp was ha- 
rangued, to call the " soldiers " to it. In a little while 
they came, each one bringing his bowl and cup, and 
the lodge was soon crowded to its utmost capacity. 
All sat with their knees huddled up to their chins, 
and deep in communion with their own thoughts. 

The feast, consisting of Indian sweet corn and tea, 
was set before them, and Paquenaude addressed 



136 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

•them, urging them to winter with the Gros Ventres, 
which they had some idea of doing ; telling them 
to give us all the trade they could, and concluded 
by laying before them half a dozen large plugs of 
tobacco. 

They all responded with hearty emphasis, "How- 
ow; " and then lifting their pans of tea to their lips, 
commenced sucking it in with a loud noise, more 
like a herd of swine feeding than anything else. 
After the tea had been drunk, the Broken Arm 
brought out his pipe, made of a soft black clay, and 
after carefully cleaning and charging it with a mix- 
ture of tobacco and a weed which grows plentifully 
on the northern prairies, and is used by the Assinni- 
boines and Blackfeet instead of the red willow, 
drew a few whiffs through it, and then handed it 
around. 

•When it had circulated a few times, the chief 
gave the signal that the feast was ended by smoking 
with the bowl of his pipe to the ground, and each 
one taking his pan of corn, quickly and quietly left 
the lodge. There were over thirty men crowded in 
that lodge during the feast, where there seemed 
barely room for four or five to move about comfort- 
ably. 

Large bands of buffalo were in sight next morning, 
and the hunters went out again. The whole country 



WOUNDED BULL. 13T 

seemed fairly alive with the moving herds. The 
squaws were kept very busy in consequence, and the 
dogs, gorged to repletion, lay sleepily basking in the 
sun, and, contrary to their usual custom, took not 
the slightest notice of me as I sauntered about. 

The old lame Assinniboine and his family, whom 
we left on the way hither, reached camp during the 
forenoon, all looking as if they had found it a very 
hard road to travel. Old "Lousey's" temper was 
not improved by the danger to which he had been 
subjected, by being abandoned on the prairie to 
shift for himself, and as soon as he gained the middle 
of the encampment, he commenced loudly exclaiming 
against those who had left him, and for w^hom, when 
they were young, and before he was an almost help- 
less cripple, he had hunted and assisted in defending 
against the enemy. Very little attention was paid 
to this harangue, and he was suffered to vent his 
indignation upon the four winds. 

A buffalo bull, furious with his wounds, was 
driven close to the camp, and his dying struggles 
attracted all the idlers to witness them. Weakened 
by the loss of blood streaming from several arrow 
wounds in his side and from his mouth, (a sure sign 
that he had received a vital shot,) he tottered feebly, 
and as his pursuer rode up to within a few paces, 
made a desperate lunge upon him, which was easily 
12 * 



138 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

avoided by the activity of the well-trained " huffalo " 
horse. Recovering himself with difficulty, the bull 
stood at bay, trembling with rage and maddened 
with pain. In a moment he fell gasping and strug- 
gling, but before the breath had fairly left his body 
the hide was torn off and the quivering flesh cut 
away with astonishing rapidity. The choice bits 
only were taken ; the proximity of the herds and 
the abundance of meat in camp making the savages 
dainty in their selections. A splendid feast was left 
for the dogs, numbers of which were skulking 
around eagerly waiting their turn. 

It came ; there was for an instant a prodigious 
uproar, a snapping of jaws and flourishing of tails, 
and the pack dispersed, leaving only the skull and 
some of the larger bones, and a patch of prairie 
clotted with gore to mark the place where the noble 
animal met his fate. 

The next morning the squaws picked out the 
dryest pieces of meat, and the trading began. The 
lodge was entirely cleared of Indians, except the 
chiefs and a couple of "soldiers," who sat at the 
entrance, as much to preserve order by preventing 
the squaws from rushing en masse, as for anything 
else. For the next three hours we had a lively time : 
powder, balls, knives, looking-glasses, hawk-bells, 
brass tacks, vermilion, awls, and other trifles, were 



EXCHANGE OF COUllTESIES. 139 

in demand ; and when we stopped trading, having 
obtained as much meat as the wagon could trans- 
port, the pressure became very great, the squaws 
fearing that our stock of goods would become 
exhausted before all were supplied. Many of the 
women were exceedingly angry when they found 
we would trade no more, and one old virago even 
went so far as to talk of cutting up our goods to 
shreds in revenge. A few trifles judiciously given, 
aided by the determined effort of the soldiers, 
finally quieted her down. The customary present 
to the chief for the use of his lodge was* made, to 
which were added a few trifles for his squaw, which 
pleased her immensely. 

The Gros Ventres were getting ready to return, 
and we then set about loading up the wagon and 
saddling our horses. When everything was ready, 
the Four-Bears and several others were called in to 
the Broken-Arm's lodge to eat and smoke before 
leaving. The Four-Bears and Broken- Arm ex- 
changed horses, the latter giving a fine one and 
receiving an indifferent animal in return. 

Making our way through the dense crowd, com- 
prising both sexes and all ages, we left the Assinni- 
boine camp, and struck out over the broad and 
sloping plain between the camp and the Riviere au 
'Lacs, when the conical lodges, with their wild popu- 



140 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

lation, were lost in the distance. Descending the 
rugged and stony bluffs, we recrossed the river and 
travelled on until sundown, when we encamped by 
1 a pool of brackish water so strongly flavored and 
discolored by buffalo urine, that it exceeded anything 
we had hitherto met with, and our coffee was, in 
consequence, scarcely drinkable. 

A beautiful starlit night succeeded, and I was 
glad to sleep in the fresh free air of the prairie, in 
exchange for the smoky and crowded lodge of the 
Assinniboine chief. The following day we plodded 
steadily on through an uninteresting country ; not a 
tree was visible ; no limpid, cooling streams, with 
their verdure-clad banks, gladdened the eye. We 
saw only innumerable sedgy lakes of stagnant rain- 
water, the edges muddy and trampled inio a quag- 
mire by the buffalo. 

'NesiY sundown we struck the pebbly shore of a 
very large lake of clear water, (the only one I had 
seen on this expedition,) and after proceeding some 
miles further, halted on Shell Creek, not very far 
from our old camping-place. After passing a quiet 
niglit, free from any alarm, we started again at early 
dawn, and soon leaving the rugged and desolate 
counby of lakes and hills, were once more on the 
broad rolling prairie. Buffalo had recently roamed 
here in great numbers, for the grass was eaten quite 



HOSTILE "SIGNS." 141 

short, and other traces were everywhere visible. 
Large flocks of swans and pelicans were continually 
passing over our heads in graceful, undulating flight, 
together with immense numbers of ducks and geese, 
all taking their departure for more southern climes. 
A few bulls lazily walked along the base of the dis- 
tant blufis, and sneaking wolves, roused from their 
lairs by our approach, trotted sulkily ofl* after stop- 
ping an instant to look at us. Animal life abounded ; 
it would have been delightful to have stopped and 
hunted for a few days, but the country was extremely 
dangerous, being constantly overrun by war-parties 
of Sioux, Assinniboines, and Chippeways, one of 
which might cross our path at any moment. 

Our Indians hurried on, and the Four-Bears would 
not allow a gun to be fired, since the sound could 
be heard a long distance in these still regions, and 
might be the means of discovering us to the enemy. 
The recent hoof-prints of a band of buffalo in full 
run were plainly distinguishable, which the Indians 
closely examined in great concern, and called a coun- 
cil of war. Buffalo never " raise " without cause ; 
therefore they must undoubtedly have been disturbed 
by a roving band of Indians, but whether friends 
or foes we could not tell ; most probably the latter, 
A young Gros Ventre crawled to the top of the 
next roll of the prairie, and took a long and careful 



142 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

survey. [N'othing was discovered, so we kept on, 
well together and ready for any emergency. At 
sundown we recrossed Rising- Water and bivouacked. 
"No fire was kindled, and each man looked well to 
his weapons. 'Not a sound, except the gentle ripple 
of the stream, broke the silence of the night. Bost- 
wick and I made our beds together, and laid down 
with our guns in our arms. Paquenaude spread his 
blankets close by, and we found much amusement 
in watching his preparations for the terrible conflict 
which he was sure was impending. His famous 
black handkerchief was tied tightly around his head, 
and his naturally sallow countenance looked ghastly 
enough by the light of the stars. He carefully re- 
loaded his gun, putting a half-ounce bullet in one 
barrel and nine buckshot in the other ; the latter he 
dropped in, one at a time, and as each rolled slowly 
down, it sounded ominous of danger. Woe to the 
"Injin"that should chance (by accident only) to 
get that charge into his "lights." The General's 
martial spirit was now aroused, and he was fully 
determined on counting such a " coup " as would 
make him glorious for the rest of his existence. 
Four-Bears crawled off quietly, and was quickly 
lost to view in the surrounding gloom. The Hawk, 
by command of his chief, sat a little apart, gun in 
hand, on the alert to detect any signs of enemies. 



THE COMET. 143 

The rest of the party lay scattered around, in seem- 
ingly careless groups of twos and threes. 

The Northern Lights flashed up and glowed until 
the prairies were almost as bright as iiay, and re- 
vealed the figure of a man seated upon the edge of 
the bank, guarding against surprise in that quarter. 
It was not the Hawk, for he was close by us ; could 
it be the Four-Bears ? It must be, for he had gone 
off in that direction early in the evening. 

But why is there such uneasiness among the In- 
dians ? Wherefore are they gazing so earnestly at 
the skies, and talking to one another in subdued 
whispers ? 

In the E'orth-East a comet, with its tail spreading 
over a vast arc of the heavens, was distinctly visible, 
and with all the surroundings, the bivouac on the 
lonely prairie, the startled groups of Indians, and 
the consciousness of impending danger, caused all 
that I had read of comets being the heralds of wars 
and tumults to flash through my mind, until I could 
not help sharing in the superstitious fears of the 
Indians, and wondering what it boded. 

Morning came at last, and roused us all into ac- 
tivity. A fire of buffalo chips was soon kindled, 
and we commenced preparing our breakfast, which, 
as it consisted of a piece of jerked meat, simply 
warmed, was not a tedious operation. 



144 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

I went down to the creek for a cup of water, and 
saw, as I thought, the Four-Bears still keeping guard 
upon the hank. 

On my return I passed close by, and was amused 
to find the supposed sentinel nothing more nor less 
than the robe and headdress of the chief, cunningly 
placed upon a stick, and so arranged that in an un- 
certain light it presented an admirable counterfeit 
of a human figure, well calculated to deceive and 
hold in check the advance of any foe from that direc- 
tion. The comet was the universal theme of con- 
versation, and the Indians expressed the liveliest 
apprehensions as to what might happen. Some even 
predicted an attack upon the village, and all showed 
anxiety to get back as soon as possible, which we 
hoped to do by afternoon. We travelled all the 
morning, and when within six or seven miles of the 
village, were discovered by some of the advance 
horse-guards, who, after signalling our approach to 
the rear, came riding toward us at their highest 
speed, dashing recklessly up and down hill. We 
drew up in a body to meet them, as they charged 
headlong towards us, without attempting to slacken 
their speed, until within a few paces, when they 
checked their horses so suddenly, as to throw them 
back on their haunches. 

A few hurried words to the Four-Bears, and an 



BATTLE WITH THE SIOUX. 145 

intense excitement was immediately visible through- 
out our party. All dismounted ; the pipe was lit and 
passed around, and the following news elicited. — 
The hunters had crossed the river the day before to 
surround, and after a very successful run, were re- 
turning in scattered parties heavily laden with meat. 
While passing through the belt of timber before 
coming out on the sand-bar, they were fired upon by 
a war-party of Sioux, in ambush, and several slightly 
wounded. The reports of the guns roused those 
who had remained in the village, and seizing their 
weapons they hurried across the river. Here they 
were strongly reinforced by the rest of the hunters 
who had hastened up at the first sounds of the fray, 
when the Gros Ventres became in their turn the 
assailants, and tracked the enemy through the woods 
to where they had intrenched themselves behind a 
rude breastwork of logs. 

Contrary to their usual customof advancing warily, 
the Minnetarees, maddened by the presence of their 
hated foes, and conscious that they had them in 
their power, rushed forward to the attack. After a 
short but desperate struggle, during which the 
forest rang with the rattling of arms and the whoops 
of the combatants, the assailants charged up to the 
breastwork and carried it, killing almost instantly 

its'brave defenders only nine in number. 

13 K >. 



^ 



146 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

Several Gros Ventres lost their lives, and a num- 
ber were wounded, — some mortally. While this 
information was being received, mounted Indians 
continued to arrive every moment, all riding as if 
their lives depended upon it. We kept on after a 
brief delay, leaving the Indians smoking, and relat- 
ing the particulars of the fight. Upon reaching the 
fort the reports we had heard were confirmed. 

The whole party of Yanctons, nine in all, were 
killed, and their bodies hacked to pieces. Each of 
the victors brought as trophies fragments of the 
bodies; fingers, ears, and scalps. A hand mounted 
on a pole was set up on the prairie, as a thank-ofi:er- 
ing to the Great Spirit. But the Gros Ventres paid 
dearly for their success; four were killed on the 
field of battle, and many wounded, some fatally. 
My esteemed friend Doctor E-ten-ah-pen-ah had 
sufifered severely. Although a Sioux, he had lived 
among the Gros Ventres many years, and was there- 
fore anxious, not only to prove the sincerity of his 
friendship for them, but also to display his prowess 
as a warrior. So he boldly sought the thickest of 
the fray. His left arm was badly shattered in two 
places, and he was so weakened by the loss of blood 
that he had to be carried in a blanket from the land- 
ing to his lodge by four sympathizing squaws. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

GOOSE MEDICINE GROS VENTRES RETURN FROM THE REES 

— ARRIVAL OF ONCPAPAS AND BLACKFEET SIOUX 

JEALOUSIES SCARCITY OF MEAT IN CAMP — CHANGING 

FACE OF NATURE. 

AFTER the corn had all been gathered in, the 
Mandan and Minnetaree squaws made their 
Goose Medicine on the level prairie behind the 
village. This dance is to remind the wild geese, 
now beginning their southward flight, that they 
have had plenty of good food all summer, and to 
entreat their return in the spring, when the rains 
come and the green grass begins to grow. 

The charms of most of the squaws in this " Goose 
Band " appeared to have faded long ago : they were 
evidently past the bloom of youth, and their voices 
and tempers had not improved in consequence. 
However, on this occasion they endeavored to look 
their best with the aid of paint and finery, in which 
respect they are not far behind their white sisters of 
more civilized climes. A row of poles resting upon 
forked sticks is put up, over which are hung in pro- 

(147) 



148 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

fusion pieces of fine, fat, dry meat, which have been 
carefully saved for this occasion. A band of four or 
■Q.ve drummers take their seats close to one end, and 
a double row of squaws next to them facing each 
other. Each woman carries a bunch of long seed- 
grass, the favorite food of the wild goose, and at 
intervals all get up and dance in a circle with a 
peculiar shuffling step, singing and keeping time to 
the taps of the drum. 

The spectators keep at a respectful distance and 
enjoy the fun, which consists in the attempts of 
some of the young men to steal the meat from the 
poles, in which however they are often thwarted by 
the vigilance of a few wise old ^' geese" who are 
constantly on the alert to prevent theft. If suc- 
cessful, the meat is carried off in great glee to some 
lodge, where they cook and eat it at their leisure. 
These exquisites are elaborately g(>tten up with 
bunches of raven plumes fluttering from their scalp- 
locks, and stripes of white and yellow clay upon 
their bodies, comprise their only covering. 

Finally, one of the old men (who have been 
thumping assiduously on the drums all the while) 
takes his place a few hundred yards off on the 
prairie, and a grand race by the whole goose band 
follows. All form in line together, and run around 
the old gander before returning to the starting-point. 



THE DOCTOR RECOVERS. 149 

The race over, tlie scaiFolds are taken down, a 
feast prepared, and the meat remaining on hand 
cooked and eaten. For the rest of the day the hand 
danced around among the different lodges, and of 
course paid a visit to the fort before concluding. 
On these occasions a few yards of calico or some 
trifling gifts are always expected to be thrown to 
the " Medicine " by the traders. 

Two more Indians died of their wounds, making 
the total loss by the fight six. The rest of the 
wounded were doing well, and in a fair way to re- 
cover. Doctor E-ten-ah-pen-ah made his appearance 
for the first time since the battle. His arm looked 
very badly, being broken in two places and poorly 
splintered. It was greatly discolored and smelt 
offensively, with every prospect of mortification 
speedily setting in. But this did not appear to 
trouble him in the least : his countenance wore an 
expression of the utmost self-satisfaction at the part 
he had taken in the fray, and he used his powers of 
romancing so judiciously, that, coupled with the 
appearance of the comet, which he claimed to know 
all about, many of the Gros Ventres began to look 
upon him with awe as one who w^as really gifted 
with supernatural powers. 

A large party of Gros Ventres had gone down to 
the Riccaree village, and their return was anxiously 

13* 



150 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

anticipated, as they were expected to bring tidings 
of the whereabouts of the Blackfoot and Onc-pa-pa 
bands of Sioux, Avho, being just now on friendly 
terms, were likely, since the corn was gathered in, 
to visit the Rees and Gros Ventres to maintain the 
entente cordiale. These two bands are very powerful 
and warlike, rich in everything that constitutes In- 
dian wealth ; and conscious of their superior strength, 
roam where they will, trespassing almost constantly 
on the hunting-grounds of the Riccarees, Minneta- 
rees, and Mandans, and sometimes even penetrating 
to the rich game country of their bitter enemies, 
the Crows, on the borders of the Yellowstone. 

The Gros Ventres returned from their visit to the 
Rees, and reported the Onc-pa-pas and Blackfeet 
camped on the head of Knife River, loaded down 
with meat and robes. It was expected, as they were 
distant only about two days' travel, that they would 
be in very shortly to trade. A " begging " party 
headed by the notorious partisan, the Black Moon, 
had already arrived at the Ree Village, and a simi- 
lar party might be looked for at our Post at any 

time. 

The next morning dawned bright and clear, and 
the sun had nearly reached the zenith when the In- 
dians discovered objects moving at a distance across 
the river, evidently rapidly coming towards it. 



BLACKFEET SIOUX. 151 

There was some speculation at first whether it was 
a herd of bufialo, which had been raised by the 
hunters from the Sioux camp, or the expected vis- 
itors. As they approached, the gleaming of their 
polished lances and the glitter of the small mirrors, 
which in true Indian fashion they carried suspended 
from their necks, proclaimed them the party of 
Sioux. 

While they boldly galloped down the bluffs that 
separated the high rolling prairie from the timbered 
bottom, and were hidden from view by the inter- 
vening forest, there was great activity in the village. 
Bull-boats were carried down to the water's edo-e. 
and the squaws prepared to cross over at a moment's 
notice. Soon the Sioux emerged at a gentle canter 
from the timber, upon the broad and smooth sand- 
bar ; and leisurely dismounting, unsaddled their 
horses, and shouted to their individual friends or 
comrades, declaring who they were, and asking to 
be crossed over. The Gros Ventres eagerly re- 
sponded to the call, and in a few minutes the sinewy 
arms of the squaws were urging their unwieldy 
boats over the turbulent Missouri. The saddles and 
equipments w^ere loaded in, and the guests, carefully 
taking their places in the frail vessels, were ferried 
over to the village. They were at once conducted 
to the lodges of their friends and something to eat 



152 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

set before them ; generally corn, of which they par- 
took eagerly, esteeming it a great luxury. 

Their horses were carefully crossed over by the 
Gros Ventres, and driven out to pasture, while all 
united in extending to their guests every hospitality 
which fear of a possible breach of friendship and 
the consequent evils of war could suggest. Ko 
sooner were the Sioux feasted in one lodg^e than 
they were called to another, and so it continued all 
day long. 

There were about thirty in this party, all warriors, 
tall, noble-looking men of symmetrical form. Their 
long black hair was carefully combed and gathered 
into a plait on each side of the head, bound with 
scarlet cloth, while the neatly-braided scalp-lock was 
adorned with a strip of otterskin. They were clothed 
in finely-dressed deerskin shirts, beautifully worked 
with stained porcupine quills of various colors, and 
fringed with scalp-locks and dyed horsehair. 

In form and feature these Indians seemed cast in 
one mould, and had a wild and game appearance, 
that told of a lordly spirit unsubdued, and the con- 
sciousness of superiority to the smaller tribes, who 
might be said to exist only by their sufferance, and 
to the "poor whites," to whom they traded those 
robes and peltries which they could neither " eat nor 
wear," and would otherwise throw away. Each one 
wore a white blanket, and was completely armed 



THE SIOUX FEASTED. 153 

with bow and arrows, fusee, tomahawk, and scalp, 
ing-knife; many also had lances in addition. The 
war-eagle feathers in their heads danced and flut- 
tered in the wind, and the hawk-hells and dried 
antelope-hoofs, with which their shirts and legc^ings 
were lavishly hung, tinkled and rattled with Ivery 
motion as they stalked proudly about, literally mon- 
archs of all they surveyed. 

Several wore the curiously striped and woven 
blankets of the Navajoes, obtained most probably 
m some freebooting excursion against the tribes 
south of the Platte. 

Our usual Gros Ventre levee was but slimly 
attended, the elegant and dashing strangers being 
the centres of attraction. The cook was able to per- 
form his regular duties without having the kitchen- 
windows darkened by the women curiously peering 
in, or the apartment invaded (if by chance the door 
was left open) by a crowd of impudent idlers, who 
m defiance of all the rules and regulations of the 
post, encamped around the fireplace until ordered 
out by the interpreter. 

Late in the- afternoon we called the Sioux to a 
"feast," and as it was politic to keep them in good- 
humor, in order to obtain as much of their trade as 
possible, McBride determined that the repast should 
be a substantial one. When they were all seated 
around the room, the cook set before' the chief -i 



154 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

large kettle of coffee, hard bread, and pans of corn 
and meat. A present was also added, consisting of 
blue and scarlet cloth, and a mirror and knife for 
each one. These liberal gifts caused the liveliest 
satisfaction, which they expressed by emphatically 
grunting "How!" The pipe was lit and passed 
around, and a brisk conversation followed. 

Running- Antelope (the partisan) said the Sioux 
camp was on the forks of Knife Kiver, about two 
days' travel from the post, and numbered over a 
thousand lodges. There were some Minne-con-gews 
and Yanc-toh-wahs with them. He also reported 
the buffalo very plenty, and added, " It is terrible 
how fat they are !" 

Our improvements in building excited their sur- 
prise and admiration, and the Crow's-Feather thus 
figuratively expressed himself: "These whites used 
to dwell in a dirty brown lodge, full of holes," (the 
old fort,) "but now they have a fine, large white one." 

They had noticed the comet, and were greatly 
concerned thereat, believing it to be a forerunner of 
wars and troubles. 

This party disclaimed all knowledge of the nine 
Sioux who had been recently killed by the Gros 
Ventres. The supposition was that they must have 
belonged either to the Two-Bears or Big-Head's 
bands, now camped somewhere on the Moreau. 

After the feast was ended, the majority of our 



DISSATISFACTION. 155 

guests returned to the village, but several of the 
principal men remained with us all night. The 
third day after their arrival the Sioux left for their 
camp, making the most extravagant promises as to 
how they would act in the coming trade. 

Two or three of our regular visitors commenced 
grumbling and finding fault, alleging that we 
"■ looked at the Sioux " (^. e. paid them unusual 
attention) more than at the Gros Ventres. A jealous 
feeling was evidently springing up, when the old 
Raising-Heart struck a blow upon the floor with his 
tomahawk to arrest attention, and declared "that 
the whites acted perfectly right in treating the Sioux 
well ; that they came only once, or at most, twice a 
year to see them, whereas the Gros Ventres were 
with them all the time, and begged and received 
presents far greater in the aggregate than the Sioux 
ever had." This matter-of-fact statement, made the 
more impressive by the emphatic flourish of the 
tomahawk, speedily brought the grumblers to their 
senses, and they tacitly admitted the force and justice 
of his reasoning. 

The day following the departure of the Sioux was 
cold and stormy, with occasional spits of snow. 
The Indians assembled in council, and determined 
to move into winter-quarters as soon as the Sioux 
should come in and make their trade. 

The squaws were making and repairing skin 



156 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

lodges, which, when completed, they pitched on the 
prairie to see if everything was in order. The sur- 
plus corn had been cdched, and the scarcity of buiialo 
around the summer village began to be severely felt. 
Had it not been for their crops the Indians would 
have been reduced to extreme hunger, and the 
supply of meat "so opportunely brought from the 
Assinniboine camp was in great demand. All that 
could be spared was traded for robes to the starving 
Indians. 

Summer was past. The autumn, with all its gor- 
geous splendor, had come. The grass on the prairie 
was bleached and withered ; and the leaves of the 
tall Cottonwood trees and the red willows on the 
sand-bar were day by day more brilliant and beau- 
tiful in their dying glories. 

Travelling on the plains at this season is delightful; 
the creeks and streams are low, the air clear and 
balmy, and the wild animals in prime condition for 
hunting. 

In a little while how changed will be the face of 
nature ! Snow will lie heavily on forest and prairie, 
on hill and valley ; the once impetuous, river will 
then slumber calmly in its icy bed, and the fierce 
northern blasts, sweeping across the naked plain, 
will drive the bands of buffalo to seek the shelter 
of the timbered bottoms. 



CHAPTER XIY. 

FIRST SNOW — POOR LIVING — TRADING PARTY OF SIOUX — 
BILLIARDS — DEATH OF THE FOUR-BEARS' SQUAW — PRE- 
PARATIONS FOR THE SIOUX TRADE BUILDING HOUSES 

CONFLICTING RUMORS — FINAL DEPARTURE OF THE SIOUX 
— REST 

THE first snow of the season ! October seventh 
dawned clear and cold, showing the ground 
covered with snow to the depth of three or four 
inches, but it soon disappeared under the influence 
of the noonday sun. 

About eight Gros Ventres mustered up sufficient 
courage to go hunting; they returned well laden 
with meat, and reported the bufiTalo plenty and close, 
moving in toward the river. Encouraged by this 
news, a large party went out the next day, but came 
back during the evening in great trepidation, fright- 
ened by a herd. They had discovered plenty of 
buffalo moving very rapidly towards them, and 
without any further evidence concluded that there 
were enemies about, and beat a hasty retreat. Buf- 
falo, as a general rule, never "raise" unless dis- 

14 (157) 



158 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

turbed by man, but at this season they are usually 
'very wild. The Indians say they smell the approach- 
ing storms of winter, and the slightest taint in the 
air alarms them. The hunters might, therefore, 
have invoked the aid of a little common sense before 
hurrying back in terror. 

Mahto-ta-ton-ka, the Bull-Bear, came in reporting 
an abundance of antelope close to the hills, about 
■^\e miles off, and said he w^as going out to hunt 
them. This is considered an unfailing sign of the 
proximity of buffalo. 

Just at dusk an Aricara Indian arrived from his 
village, and said that he had seen five large bands 
' of cows on the opposite side of the river, probably 
driven this way by the Sioux hunters. 

October passed slowly ; the Sioux were daily 
looked for, and our Indians did little or nothing, 
being unwilling to hunt until settled in their winter- 
quarters. The deer were now in fine condition, and 
the fat haunches of venison that sometimes o:raced 
our board furnished a most acceptable change from 
the dried buffalo-meat, some of which, having been 
accidentally exposed to wet, and not thoroughly 
dried afterwards, began to smell much stronger than 
was agreeable. Some pieces, indeed, became so full 
of animal life that it seemed almost impossible to 
keep them quiet on the mess-table. The share which 



POOR LIVING. 159 

fell to the lot of our Canadian voyageurs excited 
their loudly expressed disgust. They were under 
the impression, when they engaged with the Fur 
Company, that they were going to a land flowing 
with milk and honey, where, among other luxuries, 
they hoped one day to possess "a lodge in some vast 
wilderness." But to be regaled on maggoty dried 
meat, they considered beyond human endurance. 
Accordingly, one of their number, who had been a 
tailor somewhere, was constituted a committee to 
remonstrate with the Bourgeois. The latter gave 
the '' committee" such a stunning reply that, on its 
report to the "constituents," they wisely concluded 
to endure what they could not help. At all events, 
we heard no more complaints, and as we were sub- 
sisting on the same fare ourselves, there was no 
reason for them. 

An Indian arrived from the Sioux, and said they 
would be here in " five camps ; " seven or eight 
days. Pierre Garreau, the well-known interpreter, 
came up from Fort Clark, to assist in the coming 
trade at Fort Berthold, and to accompany the Gros 
Ventres to their winter-quarters. Of this noted 
character I will speak at greater length hereafter. 

Horse-racing continued to be the principal amuse- 
ment of the Indians in the afternoons ; while the 
favorite game appeared to be one which we called 



160 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

Billiards, and a space outside the pickets of the vil- 
lage was beaten as smooth and hard as a floor by 
those who engaged in it. This game is playud by 
couples ; the implements are a round stone and two 
sticks seven, or eight feet long, with bunches of 
feathers tied on at regular intervals. The players 
start together, each carrying his pole in a horizontal 
position, and run along until the one who has the 
stone, throws it, giving it a rolling motion, when 
each, watching his chance, throws his stick. The 
one who comes nearest (which is determined by the 
marks on the stick) has the stone for the next 
throw. Horses, blankets, robes, guns, &e., are 
staked at this game, and I have frequently seen 
Indians play until they had lost everything. 

The Pipe was a most inveterate player and usu- 
ally an unlucky one. His oldest squaw, a sour-look- 
ing Mandau woman, entirely disapproved of this 
mode of spending time, and would berate him so 
soundly that he w^as glad to go with her for the sake 
of peace, following meekly to the lodge where they 
stayed, for the poorwretchhadnoneof hisown. These 
exhibitions of conjugal discipline were always very 
amusing, and greatly enjoyed by his fellow-gamblers. 

Four-Bears came into my house one evening with 
his robe closely wrapped around him, and contrary 
to his usual custom, said not a word, but remained 



HEART BOWED DOWN. 161 

in an attitude of profound reflection. After a time 
he spoke : " My heart is in the ground ; my youngest 
wife is very sick ; her life is very small ; the breath 
has nearly left her nostrils." Upon being further 
questioned, he said his squaw was far advanced in 
pregnancy, and had complained of feeling unwell. 
Several old women undertook to treat her, which 
they did by kneading and punching her in the 
stomach (a favorite and universal remedy) until, as 
might have been expected, she was in a very criti- 
cal condition. 

Early the next morning the Raising-Heart knocked 
at the gates before they were opened, to inform us 
that the squaw was dead, and that he wanted a 
scarlet blanket for her winding-sheet. 

There was the usual wailing and gashing of flesh 
around the grave, by her relations, and the Four- 
Bears did not come for his regular cup of coffee. 
After the burial, old Doctor E-ten-ah-pen-ah dropped 
in, and said he was called in too late to save her, 
although there were several other " physicians " in 
attendance. His course of treatment was certainly 
original ; he wrapped her head in a blanket, and 
burned a piece of dried buffalo dung in her face, 
uttering meanwhile an incantation. She died, how- 
ever, in spite of all, but of course the Doctor waa 
not to blame. 

14* L 



162 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

Several fresh arrivals from the Sioux, bringing 
word that they had moved, and would be in for 
trade in two more camps. As there was now a 
certainty of their coming, the men were sent across 
the river to construct a temporary trading-house. 
An outfit of goods was prepared that everything 
might be in readiness at a moment's notice. 

The rival company also erected a post adjoining 
ours, and both parties were constantly on the alert, 
that they might not lose, even for an instant, any 
supposed advantage* The excitement among the 
whites communicated itself to the Indians, and 
countless rumors were in circulation, respecting the 
treachery of the Sioux, and apprehensions of a col- 
lision with them. 

Riding out just before dark, I passed near the 
newly-made grave of the Four-Bears' favorite squaw. 
Standing by it, and crying in the most heart-rend- 
ing tones, was the oldest wife. She was almost 
nude, having cut her garments to pieces, to testify 
to the intensity of her grief. Her hair was hacked 
off short, all over her head, and there was scarcely 
a spot on her arms and legs that was not gashed and 
bleeding from numerous self-inflicted wounds, made 
with a blunted butcher-knife which she held in her 
hand. Even her forehead was not spared, and 
altogether she presented a sickening appearance. 



SEVERE STORM. 163 

It is by no means uncommon in cases of violent 
grief, to sacrifice one, or even more fingers. The 
Four-Bears made his appearance for the first time 
in the evening. He too had cut short his long and 
valued hair, and looked much altered in conse- 
quence. Just before she died, he told his squaw 
that his heart would be buried in the ground with 
her, and that when he was an old man, and followed 
her to the Spirit-land, he would have her again for 
his wife and their happiness would be eternal. 

In the middle of the month a cold, driving snow- 
storm set in, and lasted all day. The horses left 
the open prairie, and huddled together in groups in 
sheltered places. At times the storm was so violent 
that we could not see the dead people on their scaf- 
folds, only two hundred yards from the gates. Out- 
door work was suspended, the men toasted them- 
selves by huge fires, and whiled away the time with 
song and story. 

In spite of the storm, a Mandan came from the 
Sioux camp, and confirmed the report of their being 
in shortly. He also said another party of visitors 
might be expected the next day. 

There was nearly a foot of snow on the ground 
when the storm abated. The old mountaineers 
considered it one of the most severe within their 
recollection at this season of the year, and the In- 



164 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

dians said that if the Sioux did not speedily come, 
they would delay no longer going into winter- 
quarters. 

Immense flocks of wild geese passed south all 
day, flying very low, and offering excellent shots. 
By sundown a number of small moving objects 
were distinctly seen on the whitened plain, coming 
rapidly towards us ; it was the expected party from 
the Sioux camp 

They did not reach the sand-bar till after dark, 
and while waiting to be ferried over, kindled blaz- 
ing fires ; which, with the groups of horses and 
riders, had a most picturesque effect, heightened by 
the surrounding snow-clad wilderness. 

Many Gros Ventres returned with this party, and 
were loud in their praises of the hospitality of the 
Sioux. The weather moderated ; the air became 
clear and balmy, and the snow melted rapidly away. 

The sun shone with dazzling brilliancy, and the 
reflection from the snow was extremely painful to 
the eyes. For several hours we were busy crossing 
over goods, and a party of men was detailed to re- 
main with them as guard. The Poor Wolf and 
Crow's Breast had a long talk with McBride, strongly 
urging him to extreme caution in his dealings with 
the Sioux, as they, were apprehensive of treachery. 
They advised Mm to choose three or four of the 



A SCARED CHIEFTAIN. 165 

most influential men for " soldiers," adding that the 
whites and Gros Ventres would make common cause 
in event of any difficulty arising, as their interests 
were identical — self-preservation. 

A spell of pleasant weather succeeded, and the 
camps had not appeared, although every day brought 
fresh arrivals and fresh reports. At last the Run- 
ning Antelope returned, saying that the Sioux were 
all coming in. The purpose of his visit was ^o con- 
fer with the Traders about prices, with the object 
of having them raised. And if their demands were 
not complied with, threats were freely hinted at, 
which the rascals were able and willing to execute. 

One night, after all of us were wrapped in slum- 
ber, Four-Bears came over from his lodge in hot 
haste, and said he was afraid to sleep there any more, 
for he had heard the sound of footsteps softly tread- 
ing outside, and directly, something was thrown at 
him, as he lay. Both of his women ran off imme- 
diately, but he declared he was so badly frightened 
that he could not stir for some time, and he w^as 
sure that it must have been the ghost of his dead 
squaw, come from her grave to trouble him, because 
he had not buried her as deep as he had promised. 

Bay after day passed, and every one was cursing 
Indian dilatoriness, and wishing the trade over. A 



166 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

few Sioux came from the camp and said, that to-mor- 
row, beyond doubt, they would be here. Several slept 
in our house, and the mice (of which there were 
plenty) troubled them so much by running over 
them, that they got up, lit their pipes and declared 
they could not sleep, because the mice were " Great 
Spirits." 

The next morning, bright and early, we were 
astir, and making all necessary preparations to con- 
duct the trade. The Indians were in a great state 
of excitement, and very busy, getting everything in 
readiness to receive their guests with all honor. 

A large flotilla of bull-boats was soon in active 
service, and Traders and Indians entered heartily 
into the business of the day. The sun was high in 
the heavens, when a long dark line came in sight 
on the southern prairies ; at first faint, but gradually 
becoming more distinct, until hidden from view by 
the forest, whence emerged a living stream upon 
the sand-bar. McBride had crossed over with his 
men early in the morning, and as soon as the Sioux 
appeared, I dispatched the Interpreter Mainour! to 
join him, and remained in the fort with only two 
men. ^N'ot an Indian was to be seen hanging around 
the kitchen-door ; all were engrossed with the prep- 
arations and attentions which they designed for 
their Sioux guests. 



SIOUX CAMP. Xg7 

As evening approached, matters assumed a very 
lively aspect on the sand-bar. JSTumerous camp-fires 
had been kindled, which threw into strong relief 
the groups of gayly dressed and bedizened Indians 
gathered around them. Huge fires were also made 
on the bank below the pickets of the village, illumi- 
nating the dark river, covered with bull-boats pass- 
ing and repassing, as well as the crowds assembled 
at the landing-place. The gates of the fort were 
closed at the usual hour, and for an interval there 
were no interruptions of any kind. 

A heavy knock at the gate, and a voice calling 
out, ''Coula! coula!" (my friend) attracted my at- 
tention. After a short parley to ascertain who it 
was, I unbarred the gates to admit the Tobacco 
(Mandan) and two of his Sioux friends. 

I received them in the usual manner, giving them 
the pipe to smoke, and a bowl of black medicine 
(cofiee) and hard bread. One of the strangers was 
called "He-who-uses-his-heart-for-all,"and had been 
appointedchief of the Onc-pa-pas, under the Bear's- 
Rib, by General Harney, at a treaty held with the 
Sioux near Fort Pierre in 1856. He showed me his 
certificate of the same, dated March 4th, which he 
carefully treasured in a leathern pouch wrapped in 
a piece of calico. He also had letters of recommen- 
dation from Mr. Charles Primeau and several other 



168 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

well-known Sioux traders-, testifying that "the 
bearer was a good young man, and a devoted friend 
to the whites." The usual result of giving a well- 
disposed Indian letters of this kind, is to make him 
an inveterate beggar, until his friendship is regu- 
lated by the amount of presents he receives. 

His companion claimed to be a comrade and inti- 
mate friend of Paquenaude, seeming to expect great 
attention on that account. After sitting and talking 
a while they took their leave, saying that they would 
return early in the morning to trade some robes. 

Paquenaude's friend, however, changed his mind 
as he was going out of the gate, and declared his 
intention of sleeping in the fort. He followed me 
closely when I made my tour of inspection to see 
that all was right, and finalfy wanted me to send 
him across the river again. I got rid of him at last 
by telling him to go to the bank and call for a bull- 
boat ; then closing the gates I went to sleep, leaving 
him to pound for admission, and yell " Coula" until 
he was tired. 

By early dawn a number of Indians who had 
finished their trading, came over to visit us, peering 
around and sharply scrutinizing everything. The 
Bourgeois, leaving Paquenaude in charge of the 
business on the other side, recrossed to finish the 
trade at the fort, chiefiy for such articles as had not 



HANDSOME WOMEN. 169 

been taken over. McBride reported that the Sioux 
had conducted themselves very quietly, despite their 
threatening talk, and that at least two-thirds went 
down to the Ree Village, where the bulk of their 
furs would be disposed of. The Gros Ventres ex- 
changed corn for dry meat, and were now well sup- 
plied for some time to come. 

I noticed a great many handsome women among 
the Sioux. As they have not such laborious work 
to perform as the Minnetaree squaws, they retain 
what beauty they possess much longer, and are gen- 
erally tall and straight, without the thick ankles, the 
ungainly walk, and the stooping shoulders of their 
less favored sisters. Taking them altogether, men 
and women, the wild, prairie Sioux have no superiors 
among the Indians in appearance and domestic vir- 
tues. 

In the afternoon they commenced moving camp, 
intending to join the rest of their band, at the Ree 
Village. Soon the long, black line, stretching away 
over the prairie, grew more and more indistinct, 
until it finally vanished in the distance. 

The robes and peltries were quickly ferried over, 
and stored carefully away ; and closing the gates, 
all gladly rested from the fatigue and excitement of 
the past two days, and the perplexities and uncer- 
tainties of the preceding three weeks. 
15 



CHAPTER XV. 

INDIAN SUMMER — GOING TO WINTER-QUARTERS — MAGNIFI- 
CENT SCENERY — THE CAMP MOVING — INCIDENTS ON THE 
WAY — A FAT EQUESTRIAN — A JOVIAL PARTY. 

IT was now the end of October, and the glorious 
balmy Indian summer had set in. The Gros 
Ventres were preparing to start for winter-quarters 
in a day or two, and were consequently in a world 
of bustle. The entire morning, a crowd of squaws 
surrounded the grindstone, waiting their turns to 
sharpen their axes. The store also was thronged 
by those who were supplying themselves with neces-. 
saries for the winter hunt; and by as many more 
trying to beg, or obtain on credit, such articles as 
they needed. A few of known probity were trusted 
with goods to the value of several robes ; while 
others of doubtful standing were obliged to deposit 
dresses, ornaments, and bonnets of eagle-feathers as 
securit}^ Thus, between the rival Trading-Posts, 
nearly every Indian was able to supply himself with 
an outfit. The men were employed in cleaning up 

(170) 



GOING TO WINTER QUARTERS. 171 

the fort, while we prepared an outfit for the trade 
at the winter camp. 

The next day was a busy one indeed ; the Indians 
were preparing to move away, and abandon their 
village to its winter solitude. Many deposited their 
valuables in our store for safe-keeping; and we soon 
had a motley array of medicine-bags, drums, rattles, 
lances, saddles, and other articles, useful and orna- 
mental. Dashing young bucks, decked out in all 
their finery, and painted in the most fashionable 
style, pranced about on their gayly caparisoned 
steeds, whose tinkling equipments could be heard 
in every direction ; while upon the squaws devolved 
the task of saddling and packing the horses with 
their household eftects. 

As each family was ready, its head led the way, 
followed by a train of pack and riding horses, 
travees, dogs, women and children. Thus, almost 
insensibly as it were, the village was deserted. As 
the last stragglers were departing, the Long-IIair 
ascended the roof of his lodge, dressed in his 
"chief's coat" of scarlet cloth, trimmed with gold 
and silver lace, and harangued his indignation at their 
going so far to winter-quarters, and leaving such a 
dangerous strip of country to be traversed if any 
of them should have occasion to visit the villaire 
and the forts. The Poor Wolf, the leader of the 



172 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

" soldier band," mounted upon his splendid black 
horse, remained behind to urge on the loiterers, so 
that before nightfall the village was entirely depopu- 
lated, and a feeling of loneliness overshadowed us 
all. Several families of Sioux had remained behind 
when their camp moved, intending to winter with 
the Gros Ventres. 

In the morning we started to overtake the camp 
and accompany it to winter-quarters. Our party 
consisted of myself, an interpreter and his family, 
four men, and two wagons loaded with goods. We 
intended remaining with the Gros Ventres to trade 
through the season. 

The day was beautiful, and the air soft as in 
spring.; the prairie was dry, the creeks low, and 
travelling was in consequence delightful. After a 
short delay while passing through the timber, caused 
by the tongue of one of the wagons breaking, we 
overtook the teams of the American Fur Company, 
in charge of Pierre Garreau, and travelled on to- 
gether in the most friendly manner. 

The Indians had made their first camp at the lake 
about five miles from the village; the ashes of their 
fires were still smouldering, and many little tempo- 
rary huts of willow-boughs standing. A short dis- 
tance further on, an Indian pony with a broken leg 
was lying by the trail, having been abandoned with 



MAGNIFICENT SCENERY. 173 

a strange kind of humanity — without being killed 
to put it out of misery. 

The poor animal raised its head and whinnied as 
we passed ; but we could afford it no relief, and to 
kill it would only be made a pretext for its owner to 
extort from us its full value. We were therefore 
compelled to leave it to its dreadful fate, which was 
easily foretold from the numbers of sneaking wolves 
that hovered around, just beyond gunshot. 

Our course on the high prairie was parallel with 
the river, though sometimes several miles from it, 
but always in full view of its wonderful scenery and 
tortuous windino^s. 

On one side the prairie stretched away, until it 
seemed to join the blue sky in the distance. On 
the other, were bold and precipitous bluffs of differ- 
ent-colored clay, interspersed with grass-covered 
hills sloping down to the edge of the forest, which, 
no longer clad in the gorgeous hues of autumn, 
looked dark and sombre. 

Beyond coursed the mighty Missouri; all the 
wild, rushing impetuosity of the early summer gone, 
and flowing slowly and silently, as if its bosom was 
already chilled by the cold embrace of winter. 
Further on, across the river, was another dark line 
of forest, from which lofty cliffs of fantastic shapes 
seemed to rise ; and beyond these again, others 



15* 



174 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

loftier still, reared their sharply defined crests to 
the sky. 

Before us extended a vast plain whose extreme 
boundary the eye could not reach. Behind us, the 
black hills which encircled the bend of the river 
below the village, apparently almost within reach, 
though in reality miles away ; from the tops of 
which the boundless prairie again unrolled itself. 
A thin smoke, barely visible to a practised eye, floated 
on the air ; the Indians said it arose from the Sioux 
camp on Knife River. 

The sun was already declining when we came in 
sight of the Indian camp, picturesquely located in 
a wooded ravine of the Mauvaises Terres, about a 
mile from the Missouri. A small creek, which after 
many windings emptied into the lake we had 
crossed in the morning, alForded a supply of water 
for the encampment. 

Our cattle were unyoked, and our horses unsad- 
dled, and driven down to drink; and then allowed 
to graze at will ; a fire was kindled, and our dinner 
(and supper) of dry meat, coffee, and hard bread 
soon in course of preparation. Before it was ready, 
I was called by the Bear-in-the-water (Mandan) to a 
" feast " in his lodge, which consisted solely of some 
very fine, fat dried meat. 

After doing justice to it, I returned with my 



INCIDENTS. 175 

entertainer to our camp-fire, and dispatched a 
second meal. 

The young hunters were ranging over the hills 
and through the ravines in search of game or traces 
of enemies. 

A group of the principal men stood upon a high 
black hill which overshadowed the camp, forming a 
conspicuous landmark for miles around, and dis- 
cussed their future movements. The red lio-ht of 
the declining sun shone upon the white conical 
lodges that dotted the prairie, and with all the 
accessories to the scene, made a wild and strik- 
ingly beautiful picture. 

Darkness coming on, the horses were driven up 
and picketed in front of the lodges, and our cattle 
securely tied to the wheels of the wagons. The 
noise of a drum in a distant lodge was soon the only 
sound that broke the stillness of the night. Having 
picketed my horse close by, I wrapped myself in my 
robe, with my saddle for a pillow, and fell asleep, to 
be repeatedly wakened by the starved Indian dogs 
tugging and gnawing at my covering. 

The morning broke cold and raw; the sharp, 
biting wind drove the horses to the dells for shelter 
as soon as they were released from their pickets. 
The squaws bustled about, shouting at the dogs and 
scolding the children, as they gathered fuel for 



176 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

cooking. For a long time everything was quiet; 
the smoke curled from the lodges, and no sign of 
preparation for departure was visible. When the 
hour for starting had come, the soldiers rode round 
the camp and harangued, "Pull down your lodges, 
and pack your horses ! " In a moment the lodges, 
which had been tightly stretched over the poles, 
fluttered in the wind ; a moment more, and they 
were flat on the prairie, and the squaws busy packing 
and loading their horses, which had been driven up 
in readiness by the boys. We also harnessed our 
teams, but durst not stir until the camp was ready 
and the word given. After saddling my horse, I 
could not help admiring the celerity and skill with 
which the squaws packed their "plunder," keeping 
up meanwhile a clattering accompaniment with 
their tongues. 

Not twenty steps from where I stood was pitched 
the lodge of the old Mandan "Buck-Eagle," before 
spoken of in connection with the Bull-Medicine. 
He was very aged and feeble, and could barely keep 
pace with the camp on the march ; and had we been 
constantly travelling like the Sioux, he must inevi- 
tably have been left behind and abandoned to his 
fate. The women of his lodge hustled the old 
fellow out of the way sans ceremome, and began 
packing their horses. 



AN IMPRO^MPTU MEAL. 177 

The Buck-Eagle took himself ofF a few paces, 
just far enough to be out of danger of being struck 
by a lodge-pole, and sitting down on his robe, delib- 
erately proceeded to divest himself of his shirt and 
leggings, and appeared, without any unusual exer- 
tion, to make a very hearty (though not very sub- 
stantial) meal upon the parasites that so thickly 
infested the seams of his garments. Leaving him 
to the enjoyment of his epicurean feast, I rode to 
the " black hill," whence I had a splendid bird's- 
eye view of the whole camp. 

When the head of the column moved, I rejoined 
the wagons ; and directly, Red-Tail, one of the sol- 
diers, galloped up, shouting, ^']N'ar-har-ah," (Go on.) 
We quickly fell in with the grand cavalcade of war- 
riors, mounted and on foot ; horses drawing loaded 
travees, upon which were sometimes tied two or three 
children, and as many puppies, clinging together 
with the most ludicrous tenacity. 

Dogs also dragged their full share upon miniature 
travees, occasionally joining in a grand skirmish with 
their unemployed companions, usually resulting in 
the complete rout of the latter. 

Indian dogs, like their wolfish progenitors, are 
exceedingly cowardly, all bark and none bite ; but the 
moment one is harnessed to his travee, conscious of 
the protection it affords him, he becomes very quar- 

M 



178 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

relsome, and when a number get together they make 
" the hair fly " to some purpose. 

The young colts and favorite "buffalo" horses 
ran at will, careering gayly over the plain and dash- 
ing through the crowds, frequently starting some 
well-behaved pack-horse to indulge in eccentricities 
until his load was disarranged, and required read- 
justment; the enraged women on whom the task 
devolved bestowing left-handed blessings on every- 
thing within earshot. Some of the young men 
played their game of billiards as the camp moved, 
and every one seemed to enjoy immensely the 
change from the staid life at the summer village. 

The^ soldiers rode about, hurrying up the strag- 
glers and checking the head of the column when it 
moved on too fast. Thus we travelled, a compact 
body in three parallel lines. 

I pressed to the head, and joined the old Raising- 
Heart and his family and relatives ; and as they were 
all supplied with fancy spotted horses, the clan made 
a gallant appearance. 

The old gentleman wore a felt hat, a gift from 
some of his white friends, and was urging on, by 
repeated applications of his whip, a very diminutive 
donkey, whose pack seemed nearly as large as itself. 
With every stroke of the whip the old man looked 
at me and smiled ; flourishing meanwhile a fan of 



INDIAN CAMP ON THE MARCH. 179 

eagle-feathers. Attached to his party was Ara-poo- 
shee, the Rotten-Bear, whose immense frame be- 
strode a little sorrel pony, that fairly staggered 
under its unwieldy load. The Rotten-Bear seldom 
ventured upon equestrian exercises, having a whole- 
some dread of a fall, and never travelled faster than 
a walk. He was obliged to give his undivided at- 
tention to preserving his equilibrium, and heeded 
not the many sharp jokes that were flung at him 
without mercy, as at every slight stumble made by 
his little horse, his countenance involuntarily as- 
sumed an air of the greatest solicitude and appre- 
hension, ludicrous in the extreme. 

Our course lay along the edge of the prairie over- 
looking the Mauvaises Terres. We were elevated 
many hundred feet above the wooded bottom of the 
river ; huge bluffs of clay, of every color (bright red 
predominating), and of every conceivable shape, 
reared their lofty turreted summits, suggesting the 
resemblance to ruins of colossal proportions. Upon 
these bluffs, and over acres of red clayey soil, not a 
blade of grass met the eye, their barren and desolate 
character well deserving the distinctive title of ''bad 
lands." 

The river made a sharp turn to the southwest, 
and the vista of rugged bluffs appeared interminable; 
dome after dome, and turret after turret rising up 



180 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

against the cold gray sky, presenting a scene of 
desolate grandeur beyond all powers of description. 

We had journeyed on in this manner for some 
time, when, leaving the high prairie, the motley 
crowd under the guidance of -the Poor- Wolf, passed 
quickly down into a well-wooded ravine, and halting, 
prepared to encamp. 

We did the same, being compelled, however, from 
the nature of the ground, to make a detour, in order 
to facilitate the descent of our teams. The high 
bluffs were a great protection against the cold winds, 
and we made a very comfortable camp. The hunters 
were soon roaming over the hills, and several fat 
deer were not long in finding their way to the 
lodges. A large band of elk was raised, but they 
were off in a twinkling ; their magnificent forms 
being in full view, as they rapidly dashed over the 
brow of a hill and were lost to sight. We built a 
huge blazing fire, and a number of our Indian friends 
helped to complete the jovial circle that gathered 
round it. 



CHAPTEE XYI. 

PIERRE GARREAU — l'EAU-QUI-MONT — BUILDING WINTER 
HOUSES — RETURN TO THE FORT. 

NOVEMBER set in raw, cloudy, and cold, present- 
ing a very great contrast to the delightful Indian 
summer we had just enjoyed. The soldiers having 
given us permission to travel on, independently of the 
movements of the camp, we made an early start, in- 
tending to reach the proposed wintering-place, near 
the mouth of Rising Water, by sundown. 

Pierre Garreau and myself rode ahead some dis- 
tance, in hopes of seeing a stray bull and giving 
chase. While jogging along, Pierre entertained me 
with many anecdotes of his early life, and the ex- 
citing scenes in which he had been a conspicuous 
actor. Pierre generally claims to be a half-breed, 
but such is not the case : he is a full-blood Aricara 
Indian, and has passed his entire life in the service 
of the American Fur Company, as interpreter. His 
mother being a very handsome squaw, was married 
shortly after her Indian husband died to a trader 

16 (181) 



182 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

named Garreau, who adopted as his own, the child 
to whom she soon gave birth, and afforded him every 
possible advantage. When a lad, he sent him to 
St. Louis, and had him apprenticed to one Page, a 
baker and confectioner, with whom he lived, as he 
expresses it, "four years in the brick houses," and 
thoroughly learned his business. 

But that fondness for wild life which can never be 
overcome by those who have once tasted of its pleas- 
ures, impelled him to return to the Indian country, 
where he has since steadily resided. He was now 
over sixty years of age, and his great pride was in his 
horses, of which he had some very fine ones. 

Pierre had three sons by different wives, all quiet, 
well-behaved young men, who, from having lived so 
much with the whites, were free from many objec- 
tionable Indian habits. He himself was very neat 
and particular in his person, and his clothes, guns, 
and equipments were always in perfect order. 

We reached the crossingof Rising Water at noon, 
when, leaving the wagons to follow, the Hawk and 
myself, with Pierre's three sons, rode rapidly over 
the hills, and finally came to a heavily timbered 
point about four miles above the creek, sheltered by 
high bluffs, and affording secure and excellent pas- 
turage. The Hawk made a cautious survey before 
entering the timber, and carefully examined the trail 



CAMP ARRIVES. 183 

for any suspicious '' sign." After threading a bridle- 
path for some distance, we came to a cleared space, 
where the Indians had once wintered, and found 
several cabins still standing, in a tolerable state of 
repair. 

We took possession of one, and tying our horses 
to the trees, kindled a fire and roasted a piece of 
venison that the Hawk had luckily brought with 
him, watching its progress with infinite satisfaction 
and keen appetites. When it was done, we drew 
our butcher-knives, and using a piece of bark for a 
platter, attacked it; nor rested, until it was com- 
pletely demolished. 

It was one of the sweetest morsels I ever tasted, 
seasoned as it was with that best of all sauces, 
hunger. 

The cries of the teamsters now heralded the ap- 
proach of the wagons, which had been delayed by 
the heavy growth of underbrush, through which it 
was necessary to clear a road before a passage could 
be made for them. 

After unloading and storing away the goods, the 
oxen were turned loose, and we betook ourselves to 
our robes and blankets and slept soundly. 

Toward noon of the next day, the Indians arrived, 
and all was then bustle and animation. As soon as 
the lodges were pitched, the squaws began chopping 



184 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

down trees, and the deep silence of the forest was 
rudely dissipated by the clattering of hundreds of 
axes. 

A child of the Red-Tail died, and the body was 
placed in a tree on the edge of the forest by the sor- 
rowing parents. 

The squaws worked diligently, and lodge after 
lodge filled the gaps left by the destruction of trees. 

Some of the hunters went out to reconnoitre, and 
reported buffalo plenty, moving in towards camp ; 
and a general surround was talked of in a day or so. 

One bright morning I shouldered my rifle, and 
set out for a stroll among the surrounding hills, to 
enjoy, if possible, the view from the top of one of the 
highest. 

My course lay through a low prairie bottom that 
nestled between the timber and the bluffs ; upon the 
sides of the latter the Indian horses were grazing, 
well secured against danger by the vigilant scouts 
posted on all the prominent hills, completely com- 
manding the possible approach of an enemy. I 
spent nearly half a day very pleasantly climbing 
among the rugged clay bluffs, and with the aid of 
my spy-glass saw distinctly, at a great distance, bands 
of buffalo quietly feeding. One very steep bluff, 
towering high above all the rest, attracted my atten- 
tion, and after a tough scramble, I gained the top. 



WILD SCENERY. 185 

A glorious view rewarded me. At my feet lay 
the timbered point in which the Indians were build- 
ing their winter encampment; the sharp strokes of 
the axe, softened by distance, saluted my ears, and 
occasionally a crashing and swaying among the trees, 
told that one more had fallen. 

Around me rose clay bluffs of every size and 
shape : some were black and gloomy, as if a fire had 
swept over them ; but the majority were tinted with 
a vermilion hue, vividly bright under the glancing 
rays of the sun. The Missouri swept the base of a 
range of cliffs even more picturesque, which towered 
on the opposite side. These receded gradually from 
the river in a graceful sweep, and returned again a 
few miles higher up, holding as it were, in their 
embrace, a most beautiful little prairie, upon which 
the Indians cast longing looks, wishing the river 
frozen over, that they might cross their horses, and 
pasture them on its rich grass. 

A mile or so further on, a dark line of timber 
showed where Shell Creek emptied into the Missouri. 
Here was the beginning or foot of the Grand 
Detour, and as it wound its tortuous way through 
the Mauvaises Terres, the Great Bend could be dis- 
tinctly traced until it was lost in the faint blue line 
that marked the hills of Knife Hiver. 

I could have enjoyed the view for hours, but the 

16* 



186 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

sun was getting low, and a sharpened appetite 
admonislied me that it was time to return. On my 
way I shot at a wolf that was loping along in an 
easy, impudent manner, and disturbed his peace of 
mind very materially. 

Our houses or cabins, for they were nothing more, 
were well advanced ; the rails laid, and rushes and 
dirt thrown on to finish the roofs. A chimney re- 
mained yet to be built of sticks and mud, and two 
days of hard work would complete everything. 

But we had reckoned without our host. The 
sticks forming the framework of the chimney were 
tied across at regular intervals to the four upright 
poles with thongs or cords of raw hide, and the end 
of one happened to project from the mixture of mud 
and grass that composed the walls of the chimney. 
This attracted the notice of some starving dogs, 
who, while we were all asleep in the adjoining cabin, 
tore the whole structure to pieces, and devoured the 
cords, leaving us to do our work over again. After 
this warning, a door was made to prevent any similar 
catastrophe. 

Our men, not daring to vent their anger on the 
dogs for fear of the squaws' interference, contented 
themselves with uttering unlimited " sacr-r-r-es 
chiens ! '' and, as if on purpose to increase their 
already unbounded disgust at everything Indian, the 



RETURN TO THE FORT. 187 

old Buck-Eagle came into the house just as they 
were ready to eat their suppers, and, without even 
saying "by your leave," picked up the coffee-pot 
and drank off its contents from the spout wdth the 
utmost sang froid. After draining it to the grounds, 
he pronounced it " suck-itts," (good,) and took his 
departure, leaving the "moshees" (whites) to reflect 
upon the uncertainty of all human expectations. 

The Indians built their village in three camps, 
about a quarter of a mile apart. Most of them had 
small log cabins close together, opening into a large 
round dirt-covered lodge, which was used in common 
as a stable for their horses. The majority of the 
Indians had finished their houses at the same time 
as ourselves, and the numerous well-beaten paths 
leading in all directions through the timber gave 
the place the appearance of having been long 
inhabited. 

I had now seen all things completed, and on the 
ninth day after our arrival started with the men and 
teams on my return, to bring back from the fort the 
remainder of the goods for the winter trade. 

At sundown we bivouacked on Eising Water ; our 
fire was kindled, and before long a side of fat, juicy 
ribs of buffalo-meat was roasting before it. The 
coffee was speedily made, the ribs done to a turn, 
and we were soon in the full enjoyment of a prairie 



188 AMONO THE INDIANS. 

supper. The sky was overcast, and the cold north 
winds swept fiercely over the open prairie. The 
oxen had been tied to the wheels of the wagons to 
prevent them from straying, and were thus partially 
sheltered; my horse came to the fire to share its 
warmth, and stood so near me, as I lay closely 
wrapped in my bufialo-robe, that my head some- 
times rested against his fore feet, and the breath from 
his nostrils blew into my face as he slept and nodded 
over me. 

The darkness grew more intense ; then the A urora 
flashed and faded in the northern sky until the 
prairies glowed as if on fire. "Wolves howled around 
us in numbers all night long, and the sparks from 
our camp-fire, scattered by the wind, fell among the 
grass, (which at this season is as dry as tinder,) 
causing it to blaze so furiously that it required our 
utmost exertions to prevent a conflagration. 

Mounting guard by turns, we passed the night. 
At daybreak we laid our course for the fort, distant 
about thirty miles, which, by hard pushing, we 
accomplished before evening. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

RETURN TO CAMP — A " POUDERIE " — LIFE IN THE WINTER 
CAMP — SEVERE TOIL OF THE SQUAWS — FIREWOOD BIL- 
LIARDS DANCES COTTONWOOD BARK FOR HORSE-FEED. 

WE were soon ready to return again to the 
winter camp. The wagons had been loaded, 
and all the necessary preparations made, when the 
weather became very cold, and a severe snowstorm 
set in. ]^ot caring to unload again, after consulting 
with the Bourgeois, I determined upon starting, and 
was fortunately able to secure the services of a Gros 
Ventre Indian, popularly known among the traders 
by the sobriquet of "Bonaparte," as guide. He 
was a stanch friend of the white man and a war- 
rior of tried prowess, and had also been a travelling 
companion in our expedition to the Assinniboine 
camp. 

For several miles our route lay through the timber, 
which sheltered us in great measure from the weather. 
But after crossing the lake, and ascending the 
hills to the high open prairie, the storm struck us 

in all its fury; the snow fell thick and fast, and 

ri89) 



190 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

already covered the ground to the depth of half a 
foot; while a driving north-east wind whirled it 
about and chilled us to the bone, in spite of our 
blanket capotes, leggings, capeshaws, and other 
wrappings. 

The snow deepened so rapidly that the cattle 
toiled heavily along, and were badly stalled more 
than once in crossing a hollow of the prairie, where 
the drift had accumulated. 

The storm was what is called in the mountains a 
*' pouderie," and so blinding that it was impossible 
to see more than a few yards ahead at any time. 
Night overtook us as we reached the ridge ; the 
wind had blown the snow away, and travelling was 
much easier in consequence. Our Indian guide led 
us to a sheltered place in the bad lands, where we 
encamped in a snug thicket of dry ash. The mo- 
ment we gained the friendly refuge of the encircling 
hills, and were protected from the chilling blasts to 
which we had been exposed all day, a feeling of 
warmth and security took possession of us, and all 
gayly set about '' making camp " without loss of 
time. Our oxen fared well on the huge bundles of 
hay we had brought with us, and after stripping my 
horse of his equipments, I led the noble animal to 
a cosy little dell, which was completely covered from 
the wind by the thickly interlaced and overhanging 



SNOW-BOUND. 191 

branches of the trees. Having supplied him with 
abundance of hay, I turned to where Bonaparte was 
scraping away the snow with his feet, and collecting 
dry leaves and twigs to kindle a fire. The pile was 
soon kindled into a blaze, and crackling branches 
piled on, until we had a huge, roaring fire. 

Water there was none ; but melted snow supplied 
a substitute, and we were thus enabled to enjoy that 
great luxury on the prairies, a cup of coffee. Our 
moccasins were hung on little forked sticks to dry, 
after which we spread our robes and blankets, and 
slept soundly, undisturbed by the howling of the 
storm, or the serenade with which the wolves fa- 
vored us. Bonaparte crept into a little hollow, by 
the roots of a tree, and made himself a very snuo- 
resting-place. 

When we awoke, the morning air was chill and 
raw, the fire had burned down, and everything was 
heavily covered with snow. As each man rolled 
out from his lair, shaking the white clouds from his 
robes, it seemed as though every snow-covered hil- 
lock around us would suddenly start up, and reveal 
a wild, uncouth-looking human form, hurrying to 
stir up the embers, and rekindle the almost expiring 
flames. More fuel was piled on ; the remainder of 
the hay fed to the animals, and our own breakfast 
soon prepared. 



192 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

We regained the ridge with difficulty ; and not 
until we had doubled the teams on each wagon, 
were we able to proceed on our way. A very large 
band of antelope was started by the creaking of the 
wheels, and their light airy forms flitted by us like 
shadows. We crossed the fresh trails of buftalo 
going in toward the river, probably driven by the 
storm ; and discovered a small band at a short dis- 
tance from our line of march. The close of the 
day brought us safely to the Indian camp. 

The paths leading in all directions through the 
timber were beaten hard and smooth as a floor, by 
the constant tread of moccasined feet, and the 
passage of numerous dog-travees loaded with wood. 

The lodges were finished, and the new-fallen snow 
lay pure and white on the rude cabins, making 
them look fresh and clean, and concealing from 
view aught that might ofi'end the eye. 

I found life in the winter camp very enjoyable; 
the constant stir and bustle, and the pleasures and 
excitements of the chase, causing time to pass by 
almost unheeded. 

Early on still, cold mornings, at the hour when 
the lodge-fires were being rekindled, the thick white 
smoke would rise up in a heavy column, and float 
away lazily, with scarcely any motion, resembling, 
except in color, the smoke from the busy foundries 



LIFE IN THE WINTER CAMP. 193 

in the haunts of civilized man. The effect was 
striking, and visible for a great distance. 

Before the sun was up, bands of horses were 
driven out to the most sheltered places among the 
hills, and the beautiful prairie across the river, 
which, admirably protected as it was from the winds, 
and abounding with rich grass, afforded the best 
winter pasturage for miles around. The whole face 
of the country was now well covered with snow, 
and when the sun's morning beams tinged with 
crimson the whitened hills and valleys, the frozen 
crystals sparkled and glistened with indescribable 
brilliancy. 

While the hunters ranged over the hills in quest 
of game, or watching their horses, the squaws went 
off to cut fuel for the lodges, and peel cottonwood 
bark for the food of the horses at night. They com- 
menced their preparations by belting their robes 
around them in such a manner, that, while affording 
a complete protection for their whole bodies, the 
free use of the arms was not interfered with. 

Then harnessing up some eight or ten dogs to as 
many travees, they shouldered their axes and led the 
van, followed by the dogs trotting demurely along 
in single file. Before long, the woods resounded 
with the dull strokes of the axes, mingled constantly 
with the shrill voices of the women, scolding their 

17 N 



194 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

dogs, who, very naturally, liked to vary the dull 
routine of every-day life by getting up a little rough- 
and-tumble fight among themselves. When a dog 
had his full load, he was led to the main pathway, 
and after receiving a couple of practical reminders 
on his head from the axe-handle, to attend to his own 
business, started for his lodge, dragging his travee 
with great steadiness. Unless caught on some ob- 
struction (in which case he patiently awaits his 
release), he quickly arrives at his destination, and 
finds some of the family ready to relieve him of his 
load and turn him loose to steal or fight among his 
brethren for his dinner. Several hours later, the 
squaws are seen coming back in parties, with a 
retinue of dogs, all loaded as heavily as possible. 

Each woman carries on her back, supported by a 
band passed around the shoulders, a bundle of wood 
of such size and weight that two would make a fair 
load for an Indian pony. Yet the women think 
nothing of it, and travel along, talking and laughing, 
as if it was play. Every day, year in and year out, 
this must be done ; and if the lodge is large, and the 
weather very cold, it is often necessary to make two, 
and sometimes three trips a day. A large camp will 
very soon consume all the small, dry wood in the 
vicinity, and the women are then compelled to go a 
long distance, often two miles before they can obtain 
the needed supply. 



PLURALITY OF WIVES. 195 

When they reach the lodges, the wood is thrown 
down and piled, the kettle put over the fire, and 
cookino^ o^oes on ae^ain. Then the cottonwood bark 
is to' be thawed, and peeled in thin strips to feed the 
horses ; moccasins have to be mended, and skins 
and robes dressed or handled. After a hunt, the 
labor is greatly increased, as the meat must be cut 
up and dried, and the fresh skins prepared for future 
dressing. 

An Indian who has three or four wives, gets along 
very comfortably, for, provided the women do not 
quarrel too much, they divide the labor between 
them. The Bear-Hunter, in whose lodge I lived the 
whole of one winter, had five squaws ; but as they 
were all sisters there was very little discord among 
them. His family lived well ; they had abundance 
of horses, and could always command the services 
of a o:ood hunter. 

Each of these five women belono-ed to a different 
"band," or society; and as the lodge was one of the 
largest in the village, it was in great demand as a 
rendezvous. The band of Bulls, the White-Cows, the 
Goose band, and other associations frequently assem- 
bled, and made night hideous with their vocal and 
instrumental accompaniments, while tripping the 
"light fantastic toe," putting sleep entirely out of 
the question. 



196 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

While the women patiently performed their daily 
drudgery, the men who were not guarding the 
horses, visited from lodge to lodge ; feasting, smok- 
ing, and relating long anecdotes of war and hunting 
exploits. Sometimes they gambled, playing their 
favorite game of hand, in which they would get so 
excited that time passed unheeded, until the sharp 
voice of an old squaw, vexed and angry at the losses 
her husband was sustaining, berated him so severely 
that they were often glad to bring their sports to a 
close. 

In order to enjoy their amusement of "billiards," 
some of its devotees cleared oft'a level piece of ground, 
between the two lower camps, and planted a line of 
bushes and underbrush, to form a partial barrier 
against the wind. Logs were placed on each side 
of the "alley," to keep the sticks (or cues) from 
glancing off. 

By constant use the table was soon beaten and 
polished as smooth as ice, and the game was played 
with greater satisfaction and spirit than ever. 

At any hour of the day, no matter how cold it 
was, or how keenly tlie wind blew, one might wit- 
ness a couple of fellows, clothed only in their breech- 
cloths, industriously following up the smooth rolling 
stone with their sticks, and measuring and disputing 
the success of the throw with the most intense 



AWINTER EVENING. 197 

eagerness. On the curbing the spectators sat, muf- 
fled in their shaggy robes, passing the indispensable 
pipe from one to another, and entering heartily into 
the spirit of the game, betting and losing with the 
same recklessness as the players. 

The mania for gambling was by no means con- 
fined to the men. The women and young girls were 
equally imbued with it; and, sitting down on a 
smooth place on the ice, they would roll a pebble 
from one to the other for hours together. Young 
infants were often kept on the ice all the while, their 
mothers, or those who had them in charge, being 
too much engrossed with their play to pay them any 
attention. 

When the sun had set, and while its departing 
rays grew fainter and dimmer, the sound of the 
horses' feet could be heard crunching the frozen 
snow-covered roads as they were driven home from 
pasture. While crossing the ice they drank from 
large holes cut for that purpose and constantly kept 
open. Cheerful fires were kindled in the lodges 
used for stables, and by their light the horses were 
carefully secured; the restive ones and young colts 
being separated from the others to prevent injury. 

The women passed to and from the river, bringing 
water for domestic purposes, and the dogs invariably 
curled themselves up at the entrance to the lodge, 
17* 



198 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

where, if one was not very careful, he could not 
avoid trampling on one or naore, apparently sleeping. 
For awhile all is quiet ; cooking is going on in every 
lodge, and during that important operation no one 
likes to be absent. When the meal is finished, the 
bustle and stir begin again ; the trader's house, the 
Exchange, where all the idlers congregate to hear 
the news, is then the great centre of attraction. 
Visits are exchanged from lodge to lodge, and the 
young bucks, dressed and painted, stroll about in 
parties, singing songs, or hover around the dwell- 
ings of their sweethearts, watching for them to 
answer the usual signal. 

The sound of the drum, and the yells and cries 
of the dancers, proclaim what is going on in another 
part of the camp, and the dogs, as if by a precon- 
certed arrangement, join in a general wailing cry, 
which lasts for several minutes, and gradually dies 
away. Just as one begins to hope for a brief interval 
of quiet, some young puppy, anxious to try his voice, 
indulges in a whine ; in an instant every dog is 
endeavoring to outdo his neighbor, who returns the 
compliment with untiring energy. 

It is late at night before all is quiet ; the bright 
sparks no longer fly thickly from the chimneys of 
the cabins, and every dweller in the camp is buried 
in slumber. 



COTTONWOOD BARK. 199 

When the snow lies deep on the ground, and ene- 
mies are less namerous, (from the fear of being 
easily tracked,) most of the horses are left out at 
night, and only brought up when wanted for hunting. 
If the grass is plenty, and they can get a fair allow- 
ance of Cottonwood bark, they maj- be kept in good 
order all winter; but if hard hunted, and brought 
up every night, by the time spring comes they are 
so reduced that only the very best horses can then 
"catch" buffalo. 

Cottonwood bark is very nourishing, and if judi- 
ciously fed, a horse will fatten on it. A tree is cut 
down, the tender boughs lopped off, and after warm- 
ing it to take out the frost, the bark is peeled and 
torn into strips of various lengths, resembling pine 
shavings ; the knots and rough pieces are carefully 
thrown away, and it is then ready for use. 



CHAPTEE XYIII. 

WOLF TRAPPING AT THE FORT — ANEW INVENTION — LUDI- 
CROUS INCIDENT — SPORTS IN WINTER — A " SELL " HUNT- 
ING ADVENTURE — STARVATION AMONG THE SIOUX 

ORIGIN OF THE FEUD BETWEEN THE GROS VENTRES AND 
SIOUX — ELK MEDICINE. 

AFTER remaining several weeks in the camp, I 
went down to the fort for additional supplies. 
The men were in the height of the trapping season, 
and had met with good success. I was fortunate 
enough to be in time for the trial of a new style of 
trap which one of them had contrived. It seems, 
he thought that catching wolves in the old-fashioned 
steel trap was slow and uncertain ; besides, from its 
bulk, a wolf of any sense would be sure to see it, 
and defeat the hopes of the trapper by declining to 
be caught. 

The simplicity of the new invention was one of 
its chief recommendations. It consisted merely of 
a stout iron hook, fastened to a chain, and well 
baited w^ith cracklings (leavings, after fiying out 
buftalo tallow). It was then to be secured to a post 

(200) 



TRAPPING WOLVES. 201 

most cunningly set in the ground, and covered with 
snow. Success seemed beyond doubt; every one 
commended this ingenious arrangement, and pre- 
dicted great results. It was set for the first time, 
on a raw and cloudy night, when the wind whistled 
and howled, and beat against the pickets with great 
fury. The other traps were set as usual ; but no 
one cared to go to bed until the new one was proved. 
At midnight the men sallied forth to make a tour ' 
of inspection, more particularly to see the practical 
working of Monsieur Gingras' patent wolf-hook. 

It was near the witching hour of twelve, when a 
feeble cry came from the direction in which this 
scientific masterpiece was planted ; and picking up 
their guns and hastily unbarring the gates, the men 
rushed forth in breathless haste. Monsieur G. in 
advance, with a heavy club to dash out the brains 
of the luckless wolf Sure enough, a small animal 
was impaled on the hook. <'A coyote ! a coyote ! " w^as 
the cry, — and rushing on it with uplifted club, he 
dealt a blow that stretched it lifeless. 

It was triumphantly carried to the fort, where the 
light of the fire in the men's quarters showed it to 
be an unfortunate little dog, which had been acci- 
dentally shut out in the evening. 

But the trap was a success; no one could gainsay 
that ; so, without heeding to any of the witticisms 



202 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

his coiiiravleb indulged in at his expense, he perse- 
vered for nearly a week, catching nothing ; while 
the old-fashioned trappers had their hands full, 
skinning wolves and foxes. McBride advised him 
to take his hook to the point ahove, and suspend it 
from the limb of a tree over a well-beaten deer-path, 
where, by using hay for bait, he might very probably 
succeed in catching a deer. 

This advice coincided exactly with his views, and 
he fixed his trap in a splendid place, about a mile 
from the fort, visiting it regularly morning and 
evening for several days, always carrying hay for 
new bait. 

The deer-tracks, he said, were very plenty, and 
very fresh, and how he failed to hook one was be- 
yond his comprehension. 

Finally he was induced to think that the first of 
April had been anticipated in his case, and aban- 
doned in disgust his attempt to catch wolves or deer 
with a cat-fish hook ! 

Around the fort it was dull and lonely ; for while 
it was certainly a relief to be free from Indian so- 
ciety, yet, when the village was inhabited, the con- 
stant stir going on served to break the monotony of 
the daily routine. 

It was a favorite amusement, on a bright moon- 
light night, to watch, gun in hand, upon the roof of 



NOCTURNAL AMUSEMENTS. 203 

one of the houses, in hopes of getting a shot at the 
wolves and foxes which were always prowlino- 
around. While thus keeping watch, one could not 
help contrasting the changed appearance of the 
village, since its desertion by the Indians. 

The once cheerful fires have burned to ashes ; the 
lodges are damp and chilly, and have an earthy, 
sepulchral smell. Tall medicine-poles, bearing of- 
ferings to the Great Spirit, rear their lofty tops like 
the spires and minarets of an Oriental city, while 
over all reigns a stillness, painful from its very in- 
tensity, broken perhaps by the melancholy wail of 
the wolves. 

^o one about the Post took a keener delio-ht in 
these nocturnal amusements than the cook. That 
worthy delighted to post himself, with his gun 
cocked and primed, to send a dose of lead into any 
wolf or fox that might be so foolhardy as to expose 
himself to the unerring aim of the accomplished 
^'maitre de cuisine." The frozen carcasses of the 
wolves, the men had trapped, after being skinned, 
were thrown into a pile outside the fort, where they 
often attracted the attention of their living brethren. 

The cook met with such success that he was 
induced to continue operations for several consecu- 
tive nights. McBride and myself were sitting be- 



204 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

fore a blazing fire, awaiting the cooking of a side 
of fat buffalo ribs by his squaw, (as only an Indian 
woman knows how,) when the conversation turned 
on trapping, and finally led to speculations on our 
cook's performances, and suggested a practical joke 
at his expense. While McBride went to the kitchen, 
ostensibly to give some directions, and detain him, 
I slipped out of the gate and propped up a large 
white dog, that had been crippled, and killed in 
consequence, a short time before. In the uncer- 
tain moonlight he looked for all the world like a 
wolf prowling among the carcasses. Before long 
the cook cautiously reconnoitred from his lookout, 
and catching sight of the intruder, thrust his gun 
through the pickets as far as possible, and after a 
most careful and deliberate aim, fired. 

To his unutterable horror, it moved not. He 
leaped back into the house, rolling his eyes wildly, 
and spluttering out exclamations and inquiries in 
such haste as to be totally unintelligible. The men, 
attracted by the report of the well-charged gun, 
rushed forth to see what he had shot, none more 
excited than '' the man who had been fishing for 
wolves." "Look! look!" he exclaimed, "he is run- 
ning ofif ! " Bang ! went the other barrel, and before 
the smoke cleared away, the gates were flung wide 
open, and a rush was made to bring back in triumph 
this new trophy of a sportsman's skill. 



A BUFFALO HUNT. 205 

As the J stood over the inanimate form, a few 
brief but powerful words were uttered. The cook, 
lifting up his fur cap, wiped away the sweat that was 
rolling down his face, and meekly returned, followed 
by a quiet and subdued party of men, to continue 
those slumbers which had been so rudely disturbed. 

A day or so after this exploit several bulls made 
their appearance on the bluiFs, not more than four 
or five miles off"; and as cords were needed to tie up 
the packs of robes and peltries which had accumu- 
lated, it seemed a favorable opportunity to get one 
or more skins, and have them cut into cords by the 
squaws. A hunting-party was soon made up, headed 
by Jeff Smith, a veteran of over thirty years expe- 
rience. He wore a close-fitting, white blanket skull- 
cap, coming low down over the forehead, beneath 
which peered the deep-set gray eyes and sharp coun- 
tenance of the old ''Kee-re-pe-tee-ah," or Big-Bull, 
as the Gros Ventres called him. A well-worn 
blanket capote, once white, but by exposure to the 
weather and the smoke of the lodges turned to a 
sickly yellow, with leggings and moccasins of elk- 
skin, completed his dress. An excellent rifle, in aplain 
skin cover, lay across the pommel of his saddle, and 
the handle of a long butcher-knife projected beyond 
the parfleche scabbard in his belt. 

Antoine, another member of the party, was buried 
18 



206 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

in an enormous nondescript headgear made of a 
piece of bufialo-robe, and wore an elkskin hunting- 
shirt, trimmed around the edge with otter. He car- 
ried one of Sharp's carbines slung on his back, and 
rode a little mustang, which had a peculiar knowing 
twinkle in his eye, and kept his ears pricked up Ske 
a rabbit. "We incontinently dubbed him "Rabbit," 
which name he retained until his death by drowning 
the following spring, while trying to cross a creek 
swollen by the melting snows from the mountains. 

In high good-humor we kept on together, laugh- 
ing at Antoine's wrath whenever his unfortunate 
Rosinante made a misstep, sometimes almost jerking 
him over his head. 

Old Jefi" volunteered the rather unnecessary infor- 
mation that he didn't intend to "run," but " kalki- 
lated on approachin'," in which, be it said, he was 
generally very successful. 

When as close to the bulls as we durst go without 
alarmiug them, we dismounted to tighten our girths, 
and see that the weapons were in readiness. Smith 
crawled some distance up the ravine and endeavored 
to approach near enough for a shot, but finding it 
impracticable, came back. 

Remounting, we rode forward, to the great joy of 
our horses, who, with uplifted heads and tails, were 
impatiently pawing the snow. Crossing a ridge, we 



A BUFFALO HUNT. 207 

came in sight of our game : five immense old bulls, 
who were feeding, rolling, and otherwise enjoying 
themselves with the greatest gusto. 

They sprang to their feet the moment we were 
discovered, and stood eying us attentively for an 
instant, when they scampered oft' with that peculiar, 
rolling gallop, which, awkward and clumsy as it 
appears, requires the best speed of an Indian horse 
to overtake. 

When they started, we gave our horses the rein, 
and dashed recklessly over the rough, uneven 
ground, as if the possibility of a fall was out of the 
question, each hunter pushing his horse to his 
utmost speed. Mainour! and I, being both splen- 
didly mounted,*went ahead, and rapidly neared the 
bulls. Selecting one that appeared to have the best 
robe, we followed him up, and soon separated him 
from the others, whereupon he plunged down a 
rugged defile, through w^hich we chased him at the 
top of our speed, clearing rocks and gullies as if 
they w^ere trifles. As the bull sprang upon a high 
ledge, I fired, and leaped my horse after, when the 
animal, closely pressed, and enraged at the wound, 
turned savagely on me, his horn, by a miracle, just 
missing my leg and my horse's flank. The well- 
trained horse skilfully avoided the shock and led 
the chase for a short distance, when the bull, feeling 



208 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

the effects of the ball, turned off and lumbered down 
the valley in a contrary direction. Malnouri had 
whipped up to intercept him, and was just raising 
his gun to fire, when Antoine, followed at a little 
distance by Smith, came galloping over the hill at a 
speed that was certainly surprising. 

Antoine was no rider, and less of a hunter ; more- 
over his horse was known to be afraid of buffalo. 
To our united astonishment, he rode straight for 
the bull, as if to bear him down by his impetus, and 
was within a few yards, when the latter suddenly 
stopped, and lowering his head, charged. In an 
instant *' Rabbit" wheeled on his hind legs, as if on 
a pivot, and hurried off in an opposite direction ; 
leaving Antoine to finish a somersault in the air, 
and land almost at the feet of the maddened brute. 

Seeing his imminent danger, we all pressed on, 
shouting at the top of our lungs, old Jeff exclaiming 
through his clenched teeth, " Run like , An- 
toine ! " a most timely piece of advice, which was in- 
stantly followed, Antoine making the snow fly in 
clouds with hands and feet ; and the bull continuing 
his flio:ht, he was soon out of harm's reach. All 
this passed in a few seconds, and leaving him to 
regain his breath, and hunt up his flying " Rabbit," 
we soon caught up with our bull, who was now well- 
nigh exhausted. His uplifted tail flirted wickedly 



AN OLD FEUD. 209 

from side to side, and his head was lowered, ready 
to charge. Malnouri incautiously attempting to 
cross his path, the bull made a lunge, and took his 
horse under the' flank. Horse and rider were both 
in' imminent peril, when Jeff wheeled short around, 
and drew the bull off by attacking him on the other 
side. He ran a few yards further into a hollow, and 
the blood poured from his mouth dyeing the snow 
crimson ; his eye-balls turned a brilliant red, and 
directly all was over. 

The horse, a fine pow^erful animal, had sustained 
very little injury, to our great surprise and Mal- 
nouri's unbounded joy ; the bull's horns being worn 
and blunt. We took only the skin and a few pieces 
of meat, and returned to the fort in good spirits 
over the incidents of the hunt. 

Parties of Riccarees frequently visited the Post, 
from their winter camp near the Ked Springs. Buf- 
falo were very scarce throughout the entire lower 
country, and there was a great deal of suffering 
among the Sioux on Heart River and Long Lake, 
in consequence. Many were obliged to kill their 
horses to avoid starvation, and there were rumors 
of the Medicine Bear's band desiring to make peace 
with the Rees and Gros Ventres, in order to procure 
corn. After which, it would not be long before 

the peace w^ould be broken. A couple of years 
18* 



210 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

previously, the Yanc-toli-wahs under Big-Head, after 
a long period of hostility, met the Gros Ventres at 
their village, and smoked the pipe of peace with 
them. While the big men were sitting together in 
social fellowship, sorhe of the young Sioux bucks 
'stole a large band of horses from the Gros Ventres, 
and made off with their booty. 

Such proceedings made the peace a mere farce, 
for neither party had sufficient confidence in the other 
to wish to keep it. 

The inextinguishable hatred between these two 
nations, Minnetarees and Yanc-toh-wahs, owed its 
immediate origin to an affair that happened some 
twenty years before, when the Gros Ventres, then 
quite a powerful tribe, lived on Knife River, just 
above the Mandan (now Riccaree) village. During 
a winter of unusual severity, a small party of Yanc- 
toh-wahs, numbering about sixteen lodges, came to 
the Gros Ventres to make peace, and relieve their 
pressing necessities by trading corn. Confiding in 
the friendship of the latter, the Sioux camped about 
a day's travel from the village, intending to remain 
until spring. A few of the ambitious spirits among 
the Gros Ventres thought it would be a glorious 
chance, by rubbing out these same lodges, to ^' count 
a big coup" upon their enemies; one that would 
"make them cry for many moons." It was done ; 



ELK MEDICINE. 211 

and since that time, all attempts to preserve a per- 
manent peace between the Gros Ventres and Yanc- 
toh-wahs, have been unavailing. The old sore still 
rankles. 

During one of the visits of the Eees, a young In- 
dian was seized with an epileptic fit in the night. 
He fainted, bloody foam oozed from his lips, and he 
whinnied like an elk. His comrades were afraid to 
remain with him, and one of them told the inter- 
preter that an elk had thrown his medicine upon 
him, and at certain changes of the moon he had 
these attacks, and imagined himself for the time 
being, that animal. The next morning he was ap- 
parently as well as ever, but before taking his de- 
parture, the rascal stole a scarlet blanket that was 
wrapped around one of the dead people ; an act of 
vandalism which would have been severely punished, 
had it been discovered by any of the deceased's 
relatives. The eftects of the dead are usually held 
sacred, except by open foes. 

Soon after these events I returned to camp, 
intending to remain there until spring. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

INDIANS MAKE "MEDICINE TO BRING THE BUFFALO" — PO- 
TENCY OF DREAMS — ORDERS OF THE SOLDIERS — A LARGE 

FAMILY — WHITE-COW BAND — STRONG MEDICINE A, BULL 

IN camp! TRIUMPHANT DANCE OF THE WHITE COWS — 

"plenty of BUFFALO !" 

WHILE at winter-quarters I made frequent 
hunting excursions through the neighboring 
points, and often extended mj tramps to a con- 
siderable distance. Deer were plenty, though very 
wild, from being so much hunted by the Indians. 
A fat haunch of venison was always a most accept- 
able addition to our larder, and now that all kinds 
of game were in their prime, we lived literally on 
the fat of the land. Prairie chickens were very 
abundant, and enough for a savory stew could be 
shot at almost any time, within a few hundred yards 
of the camp. In very cold weather they scarcely 
heeded the crack of a rifle, and I have killed several 
off the same tree, commencing at the lowest, that 
the falling body might not alarm the others. 

Herds of deer were often chased from the timber 
• . (212) 



MEDICINE TO BRING BUFFALO. 213 

on to the ice, by the wolves. The bufFalo, althouo-h 
very plenty, were at too great a distance to hunt 
and return the same day, and how to bring them 
closer was a subject of much anxious consultation 
among the Indians. 

Several young men, animated by the hopes of 
success, and the honors which it would confer upon 
them, made great exertions to achieve the desired 
result. Four-Bears was at the head of the ''bring 
buffalo" party; he was continually excusing his 
inefficiency by saying that he could not ''dream 
right," to which Iddy-weah-iddy-qush (the-one-that- 
strikes-the-women,) drily remarked that he would not 
dream right, until the weather turned cold and 
stormy, and drove the buffalo close to the shelter of 
the timber ; which was looking at the matter in a 
very practical light. 

A young man, the Red Cherry, next offered to 
bring the buffalo ; if successful, a horse, was to be 
the reward; but he wisely deferred the time of 
action as long as possible, thereby hoping to increase 
his chances of success. 

Meanwhile, all prayed that the Four-Bears might 
be able to dream to some purpose ; which he said 
he could not do, until a war-eagle of a certain size 
had been shot, and although every effort was made, 
it seemed impossible to secure one. 



214 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

Finally it was agreed to let the Red-Cherry try 
his powers. 

The next morning, hefore the sun rose, Red- 
Cherry went to the top of the highest butte that 
overlooked the camp, and began to cry and pray to 
the Great Spirit. He was to make his medicine for 
three days and nights, fasting all the while, at the 
expiration of which time, if it was good, the buffalo 
could not fail to come. 

That no counteracting influences might operate 
against him, the soldiers forbade the chopping or 
cutting of firewood by the squaws, and exercised the 
utmost vigilance to prevent all sounds. Any un- 
lucky squaw who was so forgetful or reckless of con- 
sequences as to venture to chop firewood, was sure 
to have her axe seized and her wood scattered ; and 
if she escaped a sound beating, might consider her- 
self remarkably fortunate. 

During this embargo, the onl}' fuel that could be 
obtained was dry brush or small twigs, which could 
be easily broken by hand without making much 
noise. Singing, and the everlasting sound of the 
drum, for a time ceased ; even the dogs seemed to 
know what was going on, and in a great measure 
suspended their vocal exercises. Travel and hunt- 
ing were strictly prohibited, and a young man who 
had gone after deer a few points below the camp, 



AN UNSUCCESSFUL MEDICINE-MAN. 215 

not far from the mouth of the Little Missouri, was 
met on his return by several of the soldiers, who 
whipped him severely, and destroyed his gun and 
bow and arrows, cutting his robe and meat to pieces. 
Scouts were kept stationed on the hills to discover, 
and two fine horses were ready to be given to the 
Red-Cherry in event of his medicine proving good 
and strong. 

The evening of the third day came, and brought 
no tidings of the approach of bufialo. Opinions 
began to be freely expressed that the "medicine" 
was worthless, and the Four-Bears, who had not yet 
been able to dream, was gloomy and despondent. 

There was no meat in camp ; some families began 
to experience the pangs of hunger, and the tide of 
popular feeling was setting in very strong against 
the would-be " Medicine man." 

The unsuccessful aspirant for medical distinction 
said, in self-defence, that if a spotted running horse 
had been offered him, instead of two common pack- 
horses, his medicine w^ould have worked to a charm, 
and the hearts of all the people in the village would 
have been made glad by seeing the surrounding 
prairies " black all over with a terrible plenty of 
buffalo." His friends (for he had many) began to 
think he might be correct, and were disposed to 
grant him further opportunity. 



216 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

I had been living for three days on parched corn, 
not even having coffee to help it down, and was 
extremely anxious that the buffalo should come in, 
without caring whether it was by the dreaming of 
the Four-Bears or the medicine of the Red-Cherry. 

The second attempt was prolonged over four days, 
when Ou-keh-shay (The-First-Feather-on-the-wing) 
announced that he had discovered something on the 
high hills in the direction of the lake. Every one's 
heart beat high with hope and joy ; the Red-Cherry's 
star was in the ascendant, when a more careful 
reconnoissance showed the objects to be a small 
band of horses that had been out in cdche, and were 
now being driven up by their owner. So Red- 
Cherry was again unsuccessful, and the Last-Stone 
intimated, in unmistakable terms, that he was a 
fool, a humbug, and even threatened to whip him. 

Something must be done ; already a few of the 
malcontents talked of scattering the camp, and 
moving about until they got into a better hunting' 
ground. 

In this emergency, when all was doubt and uncer- 
tainty, the White-Cow band, the corps du reserve, 
took the matter in hand, and as their medicine was 
never known to fail, a better and more cheerful 
feeling soon pervaded the entire camp. The restric- 
tions on cutting and chopping were removed, and 



THE WHITE- COW LODGE. 217 

everything soon fell into the old routine. The great 
secret of the success of the White-Cow band lay in 
the fact, that when they undertook to bring buffalo, 
tlie dancing was kept up vigorously night and day 
until buffalo came. 

The lodge of my host, the Bear-Hunter, was its 
headquarters, and his five squaws all belonged to the 
band. He had three log-cabins, opening into a spa- 
cious round earth lodge, whose dirt floor was beaten 
hard and smooth. His horses and mine, twenty-five 
head in all, were kept in one part, which was fenced 
off for the purpose, leaving ample space for the 
Terpsichorean exercises which were taking place 
almost every night; and so used did I become to 
the constant singing, drumming, and dancing, that 
I scarcely noticed it. On grand occasions the beauty 
and fashion of the village assembled here, and it 
was consequently the most popular and frequented 
locality in the camp. 

The ^YQ tongues of the old Bear-Hunter's squaws 
were unsurpassed for the ease and rapidity with 
which they reported all the news of the hour. Two 
dogs could not get into a fight at the farthest ex- 
tremity of the village without these women being 
almost instantly apprised of it. The charms of the 
second one had long since faded; she had lost an 
e^e and was quite lame, but her powers of speech 



218 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

remained unimpaired. In the blissful moments, 
like angels' visits few and far between, when a 
profound silence reigned in Bedlam, this female 
Cyclops would be sure to rise and kindle a blazing 
fire, and let loose her unruly member. 

It made not the slightest difference to her whether 
there were auditors or not ; the sound of her own 
charming voice was company enough. 

This lady was the presiding genius of the White 
Cows, and she had now a world of business to look 
after. Small boys, masked and disguised so that it 
was impossible to recognize them, and carefully 
muffled up in robes with the hairy side out, were 
sent from lodge to lodge in the evening, before the 
dance commenced. These were making medicine 
to ascertain where the buffalo might be found. On 
entering a lodge they would sit motionless and 
without uttering a word, until some trifling present 
was given to the medicine; when they jumped up, 
and after going through a short shuffling dance, 
took their departure. 

The different members of the White-Cow band 
began to assemble, and soon the regular taps of the 
drum notified the camp that the great and impor- 
tant ceremony was in full progress. At one end of 
the lodge sat the musicians or drummers, three in 
number, who were untiring in their efforts, and 



DANCE OF THE WHITE-COWS. 219 

aided their instrumentation by singing in a mo- 
notonous chanting strain. The women, comprising 
some forty or fifty matrons of the village, most of 
whose charms had unmistakably faded, were all 
attired in their quaintly garnished deer-skin dresses. 
Each had a spot of vermilion on either cheek, and 
their long black hair, which was carefully combed out 
and dressed with marrow grease, fell full and flow- 
ing over their shoulders, confined around the fore- 
head with a fillet of white buffalo cow-skin. One 
of them had a white robe (which is very scarce, and 
held in the highest esteem) wrapped around her. 
This white robe was the common property of the 
band, and in its great power as a " medicine " were 
centred their hopes of bringing in the buffalo. 

The dance was kept up at short intervals for over 
a week without any signs of success. Every night 
the lodge was densely crowded with eager and anx- 
ious spectators, and if good wishes exerted any in- 
fluence, the White-Cow band had them in abun- 
dance. On the surrounding hills the scouts directed 
their eyes toward all the points from which it was 
likely the herds would come. 

On the opposite side of the river was a lofty butte 
standing alone. It was several hundred feet high, 
and almost perpendicular on the face ; but was easily 
mounted from the rear by a long, gently sloping 



220 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

ascent. On the very summit were placed a couple 
of buffalo-skulls, with pieces of scarlet; cloth fastened 
around each horn. Two medicine poles were also 
set up, with pieces of calico flying from them, gifts 
to propitiate the Great Spirit, that he would send 
them plenty of buffalo. 

This butte was a famous lookout, commanding 
the prairies for many miles in every direction. 

The Black Hills near Knife River, marking the 
head of the Big Bend, were plainly visible, and 
appeared close at hand. 

Among the rugged bluffs that rose one above 
another, was a remarkable group, known and justly 
so, as the Square Hills, conspicuous and noted land- 
marks for miles around. The whole country on the 
opposite side from that on which the camp was 
located, seemed spread out at one's feet; while 
on either hand the view extended for miles, and 
any bands of buffalo coming down from the upper 
country were certain to be discovered. 

I was upon this butte one afternoon with several 
Indians, vainly hoping to discover something by 
aid of my glass. The Indians were pointing out 
various places of interest, scenes of encounters 
with the foe, or exploits of the chase. We spent 
several hours very agreeably in this manner, and 
returning to the lodge, I watched the dancers for a 



THE MEDICINE BULL. 221 

while ; then stretching myself on my robe, indulged 
in reverie, from which I was roused by an unearthly 
clamor among the dogs, and a general rush outside 
by the Indians. 

Hastily snatching up my gun, I ran out to learn 
the cause of the excitement. Strong Medicine ! A 
huge buffalo bull was charging wildly about, not 
twenty yards from the lodge wherein the White- 
Cow band were dancing ! The old fellow was bayed 
by fully one half the dogs in the village, and rushed 
hither and thither in his blind, impotent fury, tossing 
the dogs in front, and kicking and plunging to avoid 
those in his rear. He dashed headlong among the 
lodges, seeing only his canine tormentors, and, of 
course, paid no heed to the eager crowd of Indians. 

All were astonished and delighted beyond expres- 
sion at this remarkable answer of the Great Spirit 
to their prayers and offerings, and but one opinion 
prevailed, that the bull had been specially sent to 
show them that the efforts of the White-Cow band 
were not in vain. Directly the report of a fusee was 
heard, and lumbering on a little farther, the " Medi- 
cine Bull" fell on the sandbar and breathed his last; 
but while his limbs were yet quivering with recent 
life, a multitude of knives were busily at work, and 
in a few moments a pool of blood, Avhich the dogs 
were eagerly lapping up, only remained. 

19* 



222 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

The White-Cows came forth from their lodge and 
danced around the village. While thus engaged, a 
young man rode up at full speed and reported th5t a 
fine band of cows had just been discovered close to 
Rising Water. The soldiers at once directed old 
Snakeskin to harangue, forbidding any chopping or 
noise, and for the hunters to bring up all their 
horses, and be ready to surround in the morning. 

Hearty congratulations on the wonderful strength 
and efficacy of the medicine of the White-Cow band 
were exchanged on every side, and soon a tripod, 
over which was thrown the far-famed white robe, 
was set up on top of the lodge, and joy and gladness 
animated the entire camp. 

The next day the hunters went out and surrounded 
with success ; and it was well they did, for a terribly 
severe spell of wreath er succeeded, during which it 
stormed and snowed with such fury that none 
durst travel. When it cleared off, the whole prairie, 
from the dividing ridge near Knife River to the 
Rising Water, and beyond it as far as the eye could 
reach, was literally black with countless thousands of 
buffalo. 

The winter's hunt, thus auspiciously inaugurated, 
bid fair to be a complete success. Every few days 
the hunters went out, and returned late in the after- 
noon with their horses heavily packed with fat and 



PLENTY OF BUFFALO. 223 

delicious meat, which was soon cut into thin sheets 
and hung on the scaffolds to dry, out of reach of the 
dogs, whose well-filled sides showed that they too 
were making up for their involuntary fast. I went 
out frequently with the hunters, and the novelty 
having long since worn off, looked upon it as a 
regular business, and not merely an exciting 
pastime. 



CHAPTER XX. 

BUFFALO HUNT IN THE SNOW BUTCHERING FEASTING — 

DELICACIES — DEADLY EFFECTS OF THE INDIAN ARROW 

ACCIDENTS — SWEAT HOUSES CURING TONGUES. 



T 



IHE spectacle of a buffalo hunt when the ground 



was covered with snow was even more thrilling 
than in the summer-time. The danger was also 
greatly lessened by the soft, white carpet spread 
thickly over the prairie, serving to break the fall of 
any unfortunate hunter whose horse by a misstep 
might throw him. The night before a hunt takes 
place, the band of soldiers meet in their lodge and 
appoint some one of experience to head the party. 
The leader thus chosen has full authority for the 
time being, and every hunter must conform to his 
orders. 

No sooner is this settled than some long-winded 
old fellow is directed to harangue through the camp, 
"Bring up the horses, and prepare to go to the 
surround," naming the leader and the time of 
starting. 

The squaws bestir themselves to provide plenty 

(224) 



BUFFALO HUNT IN THE SNOW. 225 

of Cottonwood bark, that the horses may have some- 
thing to eat during the long night, and see that the 
saddles and apishamores are in complete order, 
taking care to tie a bundle of raw-hide cords to the 
horn of each pack-saddle, by which to secure the 
meat. The hunters look carefully to their weapons, 
and whet their butcher-knives to a keen edge. 

Long before daylight all are aroused by the cry, 
" Get up, get up, and saddle your horses ! " While 
the hunters eat their breakfast the women attend to 
this, and as soon as each one is ready, he starts off, 
leading his horses, sometimes accompanied by a 
squaw to assist in butchering and packing the meat. 

Every hunter takes from two to four horses, these 
being as many as he can properly manage. The 
favorite buffalo-horse trots along loose, carrying only 
a light skin pad stuffed with deer or antelope hair. 
The hunter rides one of his pack-horses, in order 
that his "runner" may be fresh for the severe labor 
of the chase. 

Arrived at the rendezvous previously designated 
by the leader, who is there with his lance or insignia 
of rank, they halt until the whole party has assem- 
bled. All now ride in a compact body, taking care 
never to press too closely on the leader, who, with 
several experienced friends, keeps well in advance, 
to discover the game before coming near enough to 



226 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

alarm it. The only sound that breaks the dead 
silence of these snow-clad plains is the crunching of 
the horses' feet as they break through the frozen 
crust, or the occasional jingle of the equipments. 

We ride steadily on until our leader comes to a 
sudden halt, and the hunters eagerly gather round 
him. The band of buffalo we intend to "run" is 
before us, and more than a mile distant; and the 
wind is very favorable, blowing from them to us. 

The customary deliberative pipe is lit, and a plan 
of attack agreed upon, and communicated to the 
hunters in a few words by the leader. We start 
again ; trotting and cantering along by turns more 
rapidly than we have yet done, each horse being 
fully alive to the exciting scenes that will soon be 
enacted. A wide detour is made, and under cover 
of a deep roll of the prairie, we approach as near as 
possible without alarming the herd. ISTot many 
words are uttered, for each one understands his 
business ; the pack-horses ai-e quicklj^ hobbled and 
left, together with everything superfluous. Mount- 
ing the runners, whose impatient restlessness can 
hardly be controlled, with bows and arrows grasped 
firmly in their hands, the hunters are ready for the 
onset. 

Many ride bareback, with only a lariat around the 
lower jaw to manage the horse, who is so well 



"hook- AH-HEH !" 227 

trained, and so perfectly understands his rider's 
wishes, that it usually hangs loose upon his neck or 
trails behind. 

We ride abreast, gradually extending our front 
like the horns of a crescent, to make the '^ surround" 
as perfect as possible. Insensibly we quicken our 
pace, and are careering forwards at full gallop. The 
horses snort impatiently, with heads and tails erect, 
and the quick glances of their eyes tell the excite- 
ment they fully share, evidently feeling, as the 
Indians say, " as if their hearts were glad." 

Faster and faster we go ; w^e are close on the herd, 
which, now thoroughly alarmed, huddle together for 
a brief instant, and then dash madly off, directing 
their course against the wind, the fattest cows lead- 
ing the van. Our leader's lance is lowered; now is 
the time, and every horse is stretched out at his 
utmost speed. The buffalo appear to rise out of the 
ground as we rush on, until what at first seemed but 
a small band has increased to an immense herd. In 
a few minutes the fastest horses have carried their 
riders among them in every direction ; and selecting 
their meat, they pursue it until killed. An occa- 
sional shot is heard, but the work of destruction is 
chiefly accomplished by the bow and arrow. 

In a few moments some of the cows fall behind, 
gradually slackening their speed until they come to 



228 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

V 

a stand-still. The blood flows freely from their 
mouths, and they soon lie down to rise no more. 
Perhaps, here and there a severely though not 
fatally wounded buffalo has been brought to bay, 
and shows fight, charging upon his pursuer when- 
ever he rides too close, and calling into play the 
agility of the horse, who, by skilfully wheeling, 
avoids the shock. A well-directed shot settles the 
question; and while bristling with impotent fury, 
the crimson tide gushes from her mouth, and she 
convulsively breathes her last. 

The white prairie is soon dotted with the black 
carcasses of the victims ; wolves skulk at a little 
distance, impatiently awaiting their anticipated feast; 
and flocks of ravens, flying low and croaking 
hoarsely, make their appearance so suddenly that 
no one knows whence they come. Here a hunter 
has been thrown, by his horse's getting his foot into 
one of the many holes with which the prairie is 
filled, but the thick carpet of snow has saved him 
from receiving serious injury. The more expert 
hunters will kill from three to five cows in a chase, 
and claim their game by the marks on their arrows. 

When the hunt is over, they return and look up 
their meat ; then driving up the pack-horses, begin 
the work of butchering. The buffalo generally falls 
in a natural position, as if lying down; and the 



BUTCHERING. 229 

hunter splits the skin down the back, and twisting 
the fingers of his left hand in the long hair of the 
hump, pulls the robe toward him, while he rapidly 
cuts the tissue with his knife. An Indian will 
skin a bulialo very rapidly, but always leaves 
more or less flesh adhering to it, which has to be 
removed by the women before dressing it. The 
meat is cut away from the bones in large pieces, 
Bome of them weighing over a hundred pounds. 
The two sides of ribs are taken oflE" and tied together 
by a cord to balance each other on the saddle. 

The tongue, heart, kidneys, liver, paunch, marrow- 
guts, "boudin" and brains, being esteemed great 
delicacies, are carefully saved. When there is plenty 
of meat, the large bones and coarse pieces are always 
thrown aside, but in times of scarcity there is ab- 
solutely nothing left but the head ; even the blood 
is regarded as a luxury and saved. The horses are 
next to be packed ; half of the green skin is thrown 
over the saddle, then the heavy boneless pieces of 
meat, after which come the ribs and miscellaneous 
portions, and over all the remaining half of the 
robe. The meat and robe of a cow is considered a 
fair load for a horse ; but I have often seen a cow 
and a half packed on, when the distance was short, 
or a cow, and a heavy man riding on top. This 
kind of work is very severe on both horses and 
•20 



230 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

men ; for, starting early they are generally a whole 
day in the cold without eating anything. 

From the huntmg-ground to the camp, the speed 
is a steady jog-trot, no matter what the distance 
may be, and party after party come together at the 
big trail made in the morning. As the sun gets 
low, the horses are urged on, and when within two 
or three miles of camp, the dogs, scenting the meat, 
rush out at full speed, noticing no one until they 
find their masters, when they trot along in company, 
occasionally tugging at the meat as it hangs tempt- 
ingly low. 

"When the party descended the bluffs, following 
the trail that led to the well-sheltered bottom in 
which the camp was pitched, the tired and heavily- 
laden horses often slipped and fell in the steep and 
icy path. 

Sparks from the lodge-fires greeted the hungry 
hunters, and the dogs, smelling the fresh meat from 
afar, began their usual howling. As each one ar- 
rived at his lodge, the squaws rushed out to take 
charge of the horses, unpacking the meat, removing 
the saddles, and placing a bountiful supply of cot- 
tonwood-bark before them. While the' tired hunter 
divests himself of his equipments, a choice piece 
of meat is cooking for him. A comfortable pipe 
succeeds, and as friends drop in, the feasting is 



DELICACIES. 231 

renewed, until all are fully satiated. The details of 
the morning hunt are given ; how many men were 
out, where the buffalo were first seen," whose horse 
was the fastest, and who had killed the fattest cow; 
all are discussed and commented upon with the 
greatest earnestness and gravity. 

The women seize upon the titbits with avidity, 
and roasting marrow-guts and making "boudin," 
keep them fully employed until a late hour. 

Indian squaws are the best cooks of meat in the 
world ; they know exactly when it is done ; that is, 
cooked thoroughly, yet retaining all the juicy rich- 
ness and flavor. The hump-ribs or bos are deli- 
cious when boiled, and a side of fat ribs carefully 
roasted ought to satisfy anybody. But one of the 
very best pieces on a buffalo is a thin strip of flesh 
on the inner side of the ribs ; it is simply thrown on 
a bed of coals ; the thick skin prevents the flesh 
from burning and the juice from escaping. 

The tongue, when roasted for several hours in a 
bed of ashes, is very fine ; but a j'oung calf before it 
is born, is considered the greatest delicacy of all. 
When first eaten, early in the winter, it is never 
larger than a kitten and gradually increases in size 
•until near spring, when it becomes too large and 
coarse. The idea of eating such a barbarous dish 
was at first revolting, but afterwards, when better 



232 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

able to appreciate these Indian luxuries, I found it 
very palatable, particularly the natural liquor or 
bi^oth in which it was boiled ; which with the addi- 
tion of salt and pepper made an excellent soup. 

After a hunt the horses are allowed a little much- 
needed rest ; the women find active employment in 
cutting and jerking the meat for future use, and 
stretching the skins to dry, after carefully removing 
the flesh which adheres. 

The men strolled from lodge to lodge, marvelling 
greatly at the remarkable strength of the medicine 
of the White-Cow band, relating anecdotes of the 
chase, and commenting upon the skill of some of 
the most noted hunters in the tribe. The Last- 
Stone, when younger, was one of the very best 
buffalo-hunters the Gros Ventres ever had. It was 
said of him that "■ he could kill on any kind of a 
horse," or, in other words, he depended more upon 
his skill as a marksman, to bring down his game at 
long distances, than upon the speed of his horse to 
carry him to close quarters. Last-Stone was a large 
fleshy man, and he told me that, when in the full 
prime and vigor of life, he could shoot an arrow on 
horseback entirely through the body of a buffalo, 
so that it would drop to the ground on the opposite 
side. The Indians also talked about '' The Yellow," 
(now dead,) who is said to have actually killed three 



ACCIDENTS. 2r,3 

COWS with a single arrow. He was of course riding 
close up when he shot ; the shaft passed entirely 
through the bodies of two cows, the point projecting 
several inches on the opposite side ; the third cow 
jostled against it in the general scamper, and the 
point penetrating her vitals caused her death. 

It has often been a matter of surprise to me that 
more accidents do not happen in buffalo-hunting, 
when we take into consideration the reckless speed 
at which they ride over the roughest and most rug- 
ged ground, the danger of getting accidentally shot, 
or of being impaled on the horns of an infuriated cow. 
In the autumn, when the ground is hard frozen 
and before it is covered with snow, the hunter is 
constantly liable to severe falls from the horse 
stepping into holes. In the spring also, when the 
snow has thawed away, leaving the ground soft and 
very slippery, buffalo-hunting is attended with much 
greater risk than in midwinter. 

The Indian horses are so well trained that they 
not only watch the buffalo to escape a colUsion, but 
also keep a sharp lookout for holes and bad places 
on the prairie, avoiding them with surprising skill. 
When the rider has picked out his cow, the horse 
follows it up with loosened rein, or lariat trailing 
behind him on the ground. He runs boldly up, on 
the right side, within a few feet ; and the instant the 
20* 



234 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

arrow is shot, swerves off to avoid the charge which 
is almost sure to follow. As soon as the cow 
resumes her course, he comes up again after giving 
the rider time to fit another shaft ; and no matter 
how fiercely the maddened animal turns upon him, 
skilfully wheels around, as if on a pivot, and allows 
the huffalo to pursue him, as it always does for a 
short distance. 

I often rode an old, well-trained horse, which we 
called " Mac," (after Owen McKenzie, who was one 
of the very best buffalo-hunters, white or red, on 
the prairies.) The old horse knew, by long experi- 
ence, exactly how far to avoid a lunge, and was no 
more afraid of closing up with a wounded cow than 
of joining his comrades on the plain. ITevertheless, 
in spite of all the skill of both horse and rider, the 
former is sometimes severely, if not fatally injured. 
The Poor-Wolf lost his splendid black steed in this 
way. He had wounded a cow, and closing up had 
given her another arrow, when at the moment of 
the charge the horse plunged up to his shoulders in 
a snow-drift, and was utterly powerless to escape. 
The Poor- Wolf was thrown, and the buffalo's horn 
made a terrible gash in the horse's flank. With a 
convulsive bound he sprang up and dashed wildly 
over the prairie, treading on and tearing out his 
entrails, and after running a short distance, fell 
dead. 



REMARKABLE ESCAPE. 235 

A similar accident happened at the very next 
hunt. A horse belonging to He-who-strikes-the- 
women was ridden by a young man who was con- 
sidered an excellent hunter, but the buffalo crowded 
on him so closely that he had no room to manoeuvre, 
and the sharp horn of a cow ripped the horse's 
belly, causing the entrails to protrude. -The horse 
was instantly stopped, and assistance coming up, he 
was thrown, the entrails replaced, and the rent 
sewed up with a sinew ; after which he was able to 
be led back to the camp several miles distant, fed 
as usual, and eventually recovered. I saw him fre- 
quently afterwards ; a scarcely perceptible scar was 
the only remaining trace of the accident, and this 
would not be noticed, even by a careful observer, 
unless specially pointed out. The horse ran as well, 
and seemed to be in every respect as valuable as 

before. 

After returning from a hunt, the sweat-houses are 
freely used, the hunters seeking by this means to 
invigorate themselves after their exhausting efforts. 
Nearly every lodge is provided with one, being 
merely a low hut of willow-boughs, just large 
enough to admit one or two in a stooping posture. 
When used, it is covered w^ith skins, stones are 
heated in the fire, and placed inside ; the occupant 
divests himself of his clothing, and the opening 



236 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 



being carefully closed, raises a vapor by pouring 
water from a kettle on the hot stones. After re- 
maining inside until nearly suffocated, and sweating 
profusely from every pore, he comes out and rubs 
himself over with snow, or, if the river is open, 
plunges in ; then retires to his lodge, and wrapping 
himself in his robe, enjoys a refreshing sleep. 

Upon returning from a hunt of more than usual 
severity, and complaining of fatigue to the Bear- 
Hunter, he insisted upon my trying a "sweat." I 
found the effect far beyond my utmost anticipa- 
tions, and afterwards resorted to it whenever ex- 
periencing over-fatigue, always with the happiest 
results. 

There was considerable rivalry at this time between 
the two companies, on the subject of trading buffalo- 
tongues from the Indians, and the prices went up 
accordingly. The Indians were the gainers of course, 
and were shrewd enough to make good use of their 
advantage. 

For several days after a hunt the traders for both 
parties were constantly on the alert to get all the 
tongues they could ; and so recklessly was the 
competition carried on that profit was totally lost 
sight of. An Indian having two or three tongues 
would stop at one trading-house and mention the 
fact, to ascertain what he could get for them ; then 



SALTING TONGUES. 237 

going to the other would tell the same story, of 
course magnifying the price offered. Having 
obtained another bid, he would return to the first 
parties and report; the original price would be 
increased, and perhaps after a good deal of talking, 
the trade would be pretty equally divided, the 
Indians saying that it was to their interest to sup- 
port "two whites;" which it certainly was. 

The tongues are salted by the traders (not by the 
Indians, as is generally supposed), and after being 
dried are sometimes painted over with molasses and 
water, to improve their appearance, and give them 
a dark smoky color. They are shipped to St. Louis 
in the spring, together with the robes and peltries, 
and are eagerly sought after as great delicacies. 



CHAPTEK XXI. 

AN ABODE IN THE WINTER CAMP — MAKING MEAT — MY 
COMRADE THE BOBTAIL WOLF — HIS LESSONS IN THE 
LANGUAGE — HONESTY OP THE GROS VENTRES — THEIR 
PAST HISTORY — MATRIMONIAL RAVAGES OF THE SMALL- 
POX — AFFECTING INCIDENT. 

THE buffalo still continued very plenty around 
the winter-quarters, and were often in plain 
sight. 

The clean, well-trodden paths, the curling smoke 
from the lodges, and the scaffolds heavily laden 
with the choicest pieces of meat drying for future 
use, presented a very comfortable appearance. 
Every one appeared satisfied, and a genial feeling 
pervaded the whole camp. 

The lodge in which I dwelt was filled inside and 
out with meat ; and when there was no more room 
on the scaffolds, poles were stretched across the in- 
terior of the cabin, heavily loaded with additional 
supplies. As fast as that on the scaffolds was fit to 
pack away, the meat inside would take its place, 
thus leaving room for fresh pieces. 

(238) 



THE BOBTAIL- WOLF. 239 

I was constrained to crawl on my hands and 
knees sometimes to get to my corner, where I liked 
to recline upon my robe, and listen to the gossip of 
the hour. The crowded condition of thins-s had 
one advantage : it kept away all idlers ; and those 
who had anything to trade, never hung around, as 
was their custom, after transacting business. 

Nearly every day I went to the lodge of my com- 
rade and friend the Bobtail- Wolf. The old chief 
was not such a politician as the Four-Bears, but 
was still respected and listened to by all. He was 
very fond of teaching me the language, which I 
wrote down as he pronounced it, and by this means 
made rapid progress. He would unweariedly repeat 
a word over and over again, until I had caught the 
correct pronunciation. Many of the principal men 
made his lodge their head-quarters, and the talk 
was always about Indian fashions or customs, very 
seldom degenerating into mere gossip. His squaw 
invariably provided something for us to eat, and 
many a piece of calf, or boudin, or bos did we 
enjoy at her hands. When at the summer villag-e, 
the old man spent the best part of his time in my 
house, and he was ever welcome, for he had plenty 
to talk about, and was an excellent hand to enter- 
tain the visitors that were constantly dropping in. 

During the whole time that I lived among the 



240 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

Gros Ventres I never missed a single article, although 
I took no trouble to keep my things out of sight. 
My house would often be crowded with Indians ; 
sometimes only one or two would be present; yet 
if called away, I felt satisfied that on my return I 
would find everything just as I left it. 

But when any Rees or Crows were about, it was 
very difierent. They would steal anything they 
could lay hands on, and required constant watching ; 
even the Gros Ventres frequently complained of 
their thieving proclivities. 

The old chief Bobtail-Wolf was exceedingly 
Bolicitous for me to take unto myself a wife, and 
had settled upon several squaws whom he considered 
eligible. I put him oW from day to day until he 
began to think it was high time for me to make a 
decided move in the matrimonial direction. " My 
son," said he one morning, after the customary pan 
of bouillon, ''it is time for you to take a wife. 
There is the Long-Hair's daughter, a good young 
woman who garnishes moccasins well, works hard 
for her father's lodge, dresses robes and carries 
wood. You told me that you had the heart of a 
Gros Ventre ; that your blood was red like ours. 
Why don't you make your words good ? " 

This was certainly bringing matters to a point ; 
and after due deliberation I replied that what he 



PAST HISTORY OF THE GROS VENTRES. 241^ 

said was good and true. — the Long-Hair's daughter 
was all that he claimed for her, but I did not feel 
like taking such a responsibility at present. ''But," 
said I, stripping up the sleeve of my shirt and show- 
in<2: him the difference between the white skin and 
the part tanned by exposure to wind and weather, 
''you see my arm is gradually turning darker and 
darker, becoming like an Indian's. When I am 
changed all over, I will be ready to marrj^ the Long- 
Hair's daughter." 

This ridiculous answer, strange as it may seem, 
pleased the old man amazingly, and from that mo- 
ment he looked upon my marriage as a settled fact, 
the question being only of time. 

On one occasion some of the old men were talk- 
ing about the changes that had taken place in their 
nation. Many snows ago they were a part of the 
Crows and left them because they were too numerous. 
Their language is essentially the same, with such 
modifications as a long residence with the Mandans 
and Riccarees would be likely to make. They once 
occupied five villages, and the Bobtail- Wolf was 
chief of one. Incursions of their enemies, and the 
fearful ravages of small-pox and cholera so reduced 
their number that they formed at last but one village 

and dwelt upon the banks of Knife River, above the 
21 Q 



242 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

old Mandan (Riccaree) village. At last they deter- 
mined to seek the Crows and unite with them 
again. They deserted their village, abandoned 
their corn-fields, left the bones of those once loved 
and lost, and severing all old ties, crossed to the 
east shore of the Missouri, and started on their 
pilgrimage. 

It was in the fall when they arrived at the site of . 
the present village. The Four-Bears thought it 
would be a good place to winter in, and they accord- 
ingly prepared to remain until spring. When spring 
came, the Fur Company's steamboat arrived, and at 
the urgent solicitation of the Indians, a trader was 
left with a few goods. He took up his quarters in 
the Four-Bears' lodge. 

The squaws cut and dragged timber for a fort ; 
the Gros Ventres gave up their idea of rejoining the 
Crows, and Fort Berthold was built. In time, the 
Opposition Company took the field, and established 
^a post on the lower side of the village. With their 
"whites" on either side of them, and protected in 
their stockaded village, the Gros Ventres had little 
reason to fear the incursions of their enemies so 
long as they remained at home. 

But the small-pox was an enemy that neither 
stockades nor bravery could keep away. That 
frightful disease is peculiarly fatal to the Indians, 



SMALL-POX. 243 

and was unknown to them previous to the advent 
of the white man. The Mandans, from a large 
nation, have become reduced to a mere handfuL 
All the tribes have suflered, but the Sioux have 
escaped with the least loss, as they immediately, 
upon the appearance of the disease, scattered in 
small camps throughout their country, and thus con- 
fined it to a single locality. 

The last time the small-pox made its appearance 
on the Upper Missouri was in 1856, and the accounts 
I received from eye-witnesses were truly heart-rend- 
ing. The Gros Ventres and Mandans suffered, of 
course, although not so severely as in former times, 
as they scattered immediately upon its breaking out. 
Around Fort William the Assinniboines lay en- 
camped, threatening the whites with justly-merited 
vengeance. The houses in the fort were crowded 
with Indians in every stage of the disease. The 
moment they were attacked they sought the whites, 
feeling, doubtless, that as the latter had brought the^# 
pestilence, it was but just they should suflTer some 
of the inconvenience. 

Few, if any, of the employes of the Fur Com- 
pany were attacked by the disease. The houses 
were kept as warm as possible, and many of the 
Indians who avoided exposure to the cold and snow, 
ultimately recovered. One case was peculiarly dis- 



244 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

tressing. A whole family had been carried off; the 
mother had just died, leaving an infant of a few 
months old. The well had as much as they could 
attend to, and there was no one able or willing to 
take charge of the little orphan. It was placed in 
the arms of its dead mother, enveloped in blankets 
and a buffalo-robe, and set up on a scaffold, in the 
usual manner of burying the dead. Its cries were 
heard for some time ; at last they grew fainter, and 
finally were stilled altogether in the cold embrace 
of death, with the north wind sounding its requiem 
and the wolves howling in the surrounding gloom 
a fitting dirge for so sad a fate. !N"evermore in the 
happy Spirit-land would that mother and her child 
\iG parted. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

STARTLING NEWS THE THREE GARREAUS KILLED THEIR 

BODIES RECOVERED — DANGEROUS TRIP — CHRISTMAS IN 
CAMP — GRAND FEAST — APPROACH A BULL — NARROW 
ESCAPE. 



P 



lERRE GAEREAU'S three sons, who had gone 
out with the hunters, full of life and spirits, 
splendidly equipped, and mounted on their bounding 
steeds, were waylaid, killed, and scalped by a Sioux 
war-party. At one fell blow were swept away the 
young men and nine as fine horses as the Gros 
Ventre camp could boast of. 

They were returning after a successful hunt, and 
when within only five or six miles of the camp, one 
of their pack-horses threw his load of meat and ran 
away. The brothers stopped behind the main body 
of the hunters to recover the truant steed. 

Night came; the hunters were all in; fat ribs 
were roasting before blazing fires in the different 
lodges, and festivity and gladness prevailed, except 
in one. The next morning, a numerous and well- 
armed party, with Pierre Garreau at the head, 

21* (245) 



246 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

started out to learn, if possible, the fate of the miss- 
ing hunters. Near the place where the bojs turned 
back, a flock of ravens was seen circling in the air. 
The party proceeded cautiouslj^, yet with anxious 
hearts, toward the spot. Their worst fears were 
realized, — there lay John, the youngest boy, scalped 
and gory, stripped of his ornaments. He was com- 
pletely riddled with arrows, but they were all 
front wounds, showing that he had made a gallant 
defence. A little farther on, the remaining two 
were found, similarly butchered. Curses, not loud, 
but deep, came from the hearts of that warrior-band, 
and they swore that when the early spring-time 
came, they would strike such a blow as would cause 
a terrible wail in the camp of the foe, and would 
make them remember for many a day the revenge 
which they had brought upon themselves. 

Without manifesting any emotion, Pierre directed 
the bodies to be conveyed to camp, and they were 
temporarily buried on a mound at the entrance of 
the trail leading through the timber. 

The horses were gone of course, and from the 
marks on the arrows, the enemy were known to be 
Sioux. 

Word was immediately sent to Pierre's relatives 
at the Ree village, and the moody silence through- 
out the camp expressed far more forcibly than 



A SAD BURIAL. . 247 

words the vengeance that would be taken upon the 
perpetrators of the outrage as soon as the plains 
should be free from snow. 

Pierre gave away niost of his property, as is the 
usual custom among Indians, and his two wives, 
although not the mothers of the deceased, cut their 
hair in token of grief. 

Pierre was soon recalled to Fort Berthold, his 
great affliction rendering him totally unfit to remain 
in camp as a trader ; and his place was supplied by 
Paquenaude who was then living as a free trapper. 
After Pierre's return to the fort, he had the bodies 
of his three boys brought down from camp, and 
reinterred in the presence of the whites from both 
posts. ISTot a sound broke the stillness, as the 
bodies were carefully lowered to their last resting- 
place ; but when the m.en commenced throwing on 
the earth, the Indian women burst forth into their 
mournful cry. Pierre turned, and thanking those 
present for the kindness and sympathy w^hich they had 
extended to him, said that it was a common feeling 
among all mankind, whether white or red, to wish 
their bones laid among those of their kindred, and 
not scattered to the four winds in some distant land. 

No news of the reinterment was sent to the Pee 
camp until it was over ; as Pierre did not want a 
vast concourse of his relations, cryilig and making 
a distressing affair of it. 



248 AMONa THE INDIANS. 

Many moons had waxed and waned, the snows 
had long disappeared, and the air was soft and 
balmy, before Pierre Garreau became as of old, and 
his conversation continually turned upon the ven- 
geance that would be taken upon the Sioux. 

It was on one of the coldest days I ever remember, 
when I started to return to camp, after a brief 
sojourn at the post. Getting clear of the timber, a 
sharp, cutting head-wind whirled the frozen crystals 
of snow through the air, and all the exposed parts 
of my face were cut, as if by a knife. I was obliged 
to dismount, and leaving the trail turned into the 
bad lands, where I could make a snug camp, and 
remain until the wind lulled and travelling became 
more comfortable. I had left the trail with this 
idea but a short distance, when a faint column of 
smoke curling up from the middle of a point of 
timber, on the opposite side of the river, met my 
eye. I at once concluded that it was the lurking, 
place of a war-party, being midway between the 
forts and the winter-quarters, and an excellent posi- 
tion from which to discover. 

Without a second thought I remounted, and 
travelled through the deep snow as fast as my horse 
could carry me, and late in the evening arrived at 
the camp, but not until my nose and cheeks were 



CHRISTMAS. 249 

slightly frozen, in spite of my fur wrappings. TVith 
one exception, I never felt the cold so severely as 
on this trip, and the Indians expressed great sur- 
prise at my travelling in such a head-v^ind, for none 
of them had left the shelter of the valley during the 
day. I mentioned what I had seen, and a party 
hurried off that same night to make further dis- 
coveries, but returned the following day without 
having seen an}i:hing. A couple of nights after- 
wards, however, a mule and three horses were 
missing, and the moccasin tracks left no doubt as 
to their having been stolen. 

Christmas, the " Big Medicine " day of the whites, 
was fast approaching, and the Indians eagerly looked 
forward to it. For several years past it had been 
the custom of the traders to make a grand feast 
to the different bands, and the Indians usually 
acknowledged the compliment by "throwing" robes 
or other articles of value to the traders in return. 

We made our feast a few days before Christmas, 
and the rivalry between the whites as to who would 
give the grandest entertainment, made it unusually 
interesting. Each band was called separately, and 
it was a good day's work to go the rounds. Our 
guests, while loud in their praises of our liberality, 
usually plead poverty as an excuse for not throwing 
robes as freely as they would like, which same plea 



250 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

was as strongly urged by ourselves as an additional 
reason for their extending substantial patronage to us. 

At the fort they celebrated the day with great 
spirit. The grand feature of the occasion was the 
dinner, at which ample justice was done to the 
prairie-chicken and rabbit pot-pies, bufialo-steaks, 
and puddings and dried-apple pie ; the whole making 
a very fair spread-out for the "mountains." The 
men of the rival posts joined forces in the evening, 
and enjoj^ed a regular frolic, which they kept up 
until the small hours, one by one fairly dropping 
upon the floor from exhaustion and overloaded 
stomachs. Several dressed up as squaws, and took 
the part of women in the dance. 

The day was remarkably fine, and the celebration 
passed off with eclat, A young dog had been fat- 
tening for some time to supply the place of a turkey; 
but unfortunately, just a few days before, he was run 
over by the wood-wagon, and crushed to death, 
which the squaws lamented bitterly. 

The Gros Ventres seldom or never eat dog ; but 
the Sioux consider it the very greatest delicacy, and 
to be "called" or invited to a dog-feast is a high 
compliment to a stranger. 

Buffalo were as plenty and close to the camp as 
ever, but the Indians surrounded less frequently, as 
the severe work was beginning to tell on their 



APPROACH A BULL. 251 

horses. The weather, too, was extremely cold, and 
at the last hunt, when the Wolf's-Eye was partisan, 
many of the Indians had their fingers frozen, and 
several were considerably hurt by their horses falling 
with violence. The Hawk had his ankle so much 
injured that it was several weeks before he was able 
to mount his horse again. Only about forty cows were 
killed, and even of these many were left untouched 
on the prairie, it being too cold to butcher them. 

I was at the lake, about six miles distant from the 
camp, looking after some horses which we had in 
edche there, and finding them all right, crossed over 
to Shell Creek to inspect some beaver-lodges, with 
which the stream was filled. When about returning, 
a buffalo-bull emerged from the willows, not more 
than a quarter of a mile from me, and leisurely 
started across the prairie, stopping occasionally to 
paw away the snow and feed. The wind was very 
favorable, and I determined to approach him. 
Taking advantage of every inequality of the ground, 
I crawled on my hands and knees, dragging along 
my rifle, (protected from the snow by a skin cover,) 
and having a white blanket capote, with capeshaw 
of the same drawn over my head, at a little distance 
looked too much like a white wolf to excite the 
slightest apprehension in the bull, who continued 
cropping the grass in the most unconcerned manner. 



252 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

I was gradually getting closer and closer to him, 
when a slight noise, made in breaking through the 
crust of the snow, alarmed him. He stopped and 
looked around, but seeing nothing to justify his 
fears, went on feeding, gradually making his way 
toward some coolies or ravines not very far distant. 
I followed as fast as was prudent, and soon had the 
satisfaction of seeing the bull climb a butte, and 
disappear on the other side. 

Following after as fast as possible, I gained the 
butte, and crawling cautiously up, looked over the 
brow, and saw my bull eating away with the most 
perfect unconcern not twenty yards distant. I had 
by this time crawled nearly half a mile, and was not 
at all grieved by the prospect of bringing my labors 
to a termination. 

The first ball struck the bull fair in his " lights ; " 
he gave a slight jump, and then stood still. The 
blood poured from his mouth, and tottering forward 
a few paces he sank quietly down upon his knees. 
I watched him, and seeing no further motion, con- 
cluded that, if not dead already, he was very near it, 
and accordingly moved directly towards him, when, 
to my horror and amazement he suddenly sprang 
to his feet, lowered his head, and made for me. I 
turned and fled with all possible haste as far as I 
could go, through snow up to my knees, and would 



THE TABLES TURNED. 253 

have fared badly had not the friendly butte inter- 
posed and hid me from his sight, just when I was 
expecting to feel his horn in my back. Stopping 
only from sheer exhaustion, I looked back, and saw 
him stretched out in the last agonies. Making sure 
this time that he was actually dead, I returned and 
took his tongue as a trophy, leaving the rest of his 
carcass for the wolves, who were already in attend- 
ance in considerable numbers, and only waiting for 
my departure to begin their feast. 

Eavens too were circling in the air, and when all 
had eaten their fill, the remains of the bull would 
be scanty indeed. 

22 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

ECLIPSE OF THE MOON — INDIAN IDEAS — THUNDER, LIGHT- 
NING, AND RAIN PRIMITIVE WAYS EXPRESS ARRIVES 

— TRAVEL IN A " POUDERIE " — TEDIOUS TRIP — LAMB 
HORSE — RETURN TO POST. 

IT was time to return to the Fort again with the 
robes, tongues, and peltries which had accumu- 
lated since m}^ last trip. Early on the morning I 
expected to start we were roused by a great uproar 
in camp ; men firing guns, women crying, and the 
dogs of course contributing their share to the gen- 
eral racket. I hurried out of the lodge to see what 
it was all about. 

The night was clear and beautiful, but the silvery 
beams of the full moon did not fall as brightly as 
usual. Darkness was slowly drawing its veil over 
the scene. 

The old men harangued, and when the shadow 
passed away, and the moon shone brilliantly out 
again, a general yell of exultation arose at the 
strength of the medicine, which had appeased the 
anger of the Great Spirit. The Indians have no 

(254) 



TRAVELLINa. 255 

idea. of what causes an eclipse, and believe that the 
shadow would always remain unless they drove it 
away by the power and strength of their medicine. 

We had a toilsome journey to the fort, as the snow 
lay very deep in places, rendering it necessary some- 
times to unload everything in order to extricate the 
animals. When the crust is frozen hard, it is a 
pleasure to travel, but it is very wearisome when 
the sun's rays have sufficient power to soften this 
crust, so that one step will be firm, and the next 
break through, oftentimes up to the horse's belly. 

I was always glad when the promontory upon 
which the forts and village were built, came in sight, 
although at a distance of five or six miles ; and the 
tired horses moved more briskly, knowing well that 
their labors, for the present at least, would soon be 
over. 

A party of Gros Ventres, chiefly squaws, came 
down from camp at the same time, bringing with 
them the body of the Black Parflesh, who had died 
a day or so since, and must, according to custom, be 
buried on a scafibld in the rear of the village. 

The weather was intensely cold, and the squaws 
experienced considerable difficulty in digging holes 
in the hard frozen earth, to set up the scaffi^ld. It 
was in fact necessary to build a fire and thaw the 
ground before this could be done. 



256 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

Doctor E-ten-ah-pen-ah was of the party, and 
stated that the ghost of the Black Parflesh appeared 
as he passed by his lodge in the village, and beck- 
oned to him. The Doctor said that he felt his hair 
.gradually rising up, and cocking both barrels of his 
gun he ran away as fast as he could. 

Returning to camp, I found the buffalo beginning 
to scatter, and the hunters had consequently much 
farther to go " for meat." Scarcely had I unsaddled, 
ere the Four-Bears called me to a feast at his lodge, 
and on obeying the summons I found some eight or 
ten Indians assembled, while a splendid side of fat 
roasted ribs was being skilfully cut up by the senior 
Mrs. Four-Bears. After the well-picked bones had 
been carried away, and the pipe lit and passed 
around, the Four-Bears inquired what the Rees 
were doing, and if any later intelligence had been 
received from the Sioux camp. I gave all the infor- 
mation I possessed, and the conversation then took 
an entirely different turn. 

My comrade, the Bobtail- Wolf, asked me if it was 
not almost time for the wild geese to return, for 
thunder and lightning, and the river to open. I 
replied, that nearly three moons must wane before 
those events would happen ; and inquired if he could 
tell me what caused thunder and lightning. 



THUNDER-BIRD. 257 

He said that there was, high in air, far out of 
sight, flying continually and never resting, an eagle 
of terrible size. Upon his back he carries a lake 
full of water. "When this aerial monster is out of 
humor, he flaps his wings, and loud peals of thunder 
roll over the prairie ; when he winks his eyes, it 
lightens ; -and when he wags his tail, the waters of 
the lake on his back overflow, producing rain. 

I admiringly assented to this philosophical ex- 
planation, and for several moments nothing was 
said, when the silence was broken by the Poor-Elk, 
declaring that the whites were bad ; they brought 
sickness among the Indians; they were much better 
without the whites than with them. What need 
had they of traders ? Did not the buffalo supply 
them with all they required ? When their ammuni- 
tion was expended, could they not fall back upon 
their bows and arrows ? They were not raised like 
the whites to drink sugar and coffee, and it was ter- 
rible to see how fond they had become of it. Now, 
their young men would sooner sit in the whites' 
lodges, hoping to get a cup of coffee, than follow on 
the war-path or hunt the buffklo ; they would soon 
be no better than women. He was in favor of 
driving all the traders out of the country. 

" My friend," I replied, "you have no sense; you 
speak with a woman's tongue. It is very true that 



22* 



R 



258 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

you did without the whites once ; but that was many 
snows ago, when you were but a few summers old. 
!Now, if you were to drive them away, when your 
powder and balls were expended, you would fall 
back upon your bows and arrows. The arrows 
would not last forever, and when you wanted new 
ones, where would you get iron for the points? 
When your kettles wore out, what would your 
women do ? Many snows have whitened the prairie 
since your people last made pots of clay ; you have 
almost forgotten about them. When your knives 
were gone, the young men would find it very dif- 
ferent from begging their whites for new ones, to 
use sharp stones, (flints,) as they did in the long ago.'* 

"What the Yellow-Hair says is true," Four-Bears 
remarked ; " we would find it very hard to do as we 
once did before we had whites. We are now a small 
people ; our enemies are many and strong. We are 
almost afraid to go out on our own prairies to hunt 
the buffalo for fear our village might be attacked, 
and our women and children killed during our 
absence. We have got the whites (traders); we 
can't do without them, and we must take pity on 
them and give them life," (^. e. trade with them, 
and support them.) 

These remarks silenced the Poor-Elk, who, in 
truth, did not mean what he said ; only a little out 



POTTERY. 259 

of humor at being refused something which he had 
asked, and took this method of venting his dis- 
pleasure. 

Indians who have been long accustomed to enjoy 
the many little comforts supplied by the traders, 
would, if wholly deprived of them, find it almost 
impossible to exist. Many years ago, it is true, when 
some of the patriarchs of the tribe were young men, 
and before the traders came among them, they lived 
in the most primitive style. Their knives and arrow- 
points were of flint, and many tribes had no cooking- 
utensils. 

The Eiccarees and Gros Ventres were, however, 
in more respects than one, in advance of the other 
prairie Indians. Out of a peculiar kind of clay they 
fashioned large pots of various shapes ; after a time, 
from the effects of heat and use, these became hard, 
and black like iron, and so strong that an ordinary 
blow with a stick or stone caused no injury. Some 
of the Rees still possess a few of these curious ves- 
sels, and regard them as relics of great value. 

The arrival of the mnter Express, bringing de- 
spatches from Mr. Clark, at the Blackfoot Post, 
although expected for some time, was an interesting 
event. The Indians were anxious to learn the move- 
ments of the Blackfeet, Crows, and Assinniboines, 



260 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

and whether buffalo were plenty between the camp 
and the Yellowstone. The Express was brought 
thus far by a half-breed named Dauphiny, with one 
other man. They were to proceed as far as our 
fort, whence they would return, and the Express be 
forwarded by us to the Ree Post, on its way to St. 
Louis. From the Rees it would be dispatched to 
Fort Pierre, thence to Fort Randall, (a U. S. Post,) 
thence to Sioux City, where it would be put into 
the mail. Its route for many hundred miles lay 
through a wilderness, infested by hostile Indians, by 
whom, if discovered, the carriers' lives would be 
held of little account. 

After resting over night, the Express continued 
on to the forts, and I went along, as it would devolve 
on me to carry it to the Rees. A day was spent in 
writing letters and preparing the requisition for 
goods for the coming year's outfit. The weather 
was cold and disagreeable ; but having secured the 
services of a young Indian, the Pretty- Wing, as 
guide, I felt no hesitation about starting. 

"We left early, for we had a long and fatiguing 
ride before us, the snow being verj^ deep in many 
places. For a few miles we travelled under the 
bluifs, which sheltered us from the wind ; but when 
we crossed the river and gained the high prairie, 
the chilling northern blasts had full sweep, blowing 



CARRY THE EXPRESS. 261 

the light snow in clouds, and making it utterly- 
impossible to see m6re than a few yards in any direc- 
tion. Fortunately, it was a back wind, which greatly 
lessened its effects. 

We plodded steadil}^ on, making our way, some- 
times with great dif&culty, through the numerous 
ravines or coolies filled with snow ; and more than 
once were compelled to take a detour to find a suit- 
able crossing-place. Instead of following the sum- 
mer trail across the open prairie, my guide kept the 
river in sight the whole time. This made the road 
a great deal longer ; but to have attempted crossing 
the plain in that driving '' pouderie,^' would have 
been madness. Had we been foolish enough to have 
tried it, we might have lost our course in the blind- 
ing storm, and perished on the open prairie. 

We had progressed well on our dreary journey 
when we encountered a large party of Rees, moving 
from their winter camp at the Eed Springs, on 
account of the scarcity of buffalo, in search of a 
better hunting-ground. They were all completely 
enveloped in their robes ; and hurried on, anxious 
to gain the shelter of the timber, for they had the 
driving storm directly in their faces. 

We kept on for some distance further, when the 
high bluffs and sheltered dells told us that we could 
not be far from the Red Springs, where more than 



262 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

half the Rees were still encamped. Soon we saw 
horses feeding here and there on the hillsides, a 
cheerful contrast to the dreary waste through which 
we had passed ; and descending a steep hill, found 
ourselves in the timber, with the lodges of the Ric- 
carees close at hand. Very few Indians were stir- 
ring ; even the dogs took no notice of us as we rode 
through the village, stopping only long enough for 
our guide to ask some questions concerning the best 
route to the Ree Post, where we arrived, hungry 
and tired, long after dark. 

Major Hamilton soon had a hot cup of coffee 
ready, and after a substantial supper, we sat until a 
late hour, talking over the different items of news. 
Several Yanc-toh-wahs from their camp at the 
Painted Woods, twenty-five miles distant, were in 
the fort. They had suffered severely for want of 
food, and many were compelled to live upon horse- 
flesh. The Oucpapas and Blackfeet had not been 
heard of for some time, but were supposed to be in 
the vicinity of the Thin Hills with plenty of buffalo, 
the great depth of snow in the intervening country 
preventing communication between the camps. The 
Sioux expressed themselves very anxious to make 
peace with the Rees and Gros Ventres, as they in- 
variably do when starving, in order to trade corn ; 
but the latter placed no confidence in their Punic 
faith. 



AN OLD MOUNTAINEER. 263 

The next day we laid over to rest our horses, and 
passed it in visiting. Mr. Hodgkiss of the American 
Fur Company entertained me with interesting rem- 
iniscences of his life, he being one of the veteran 
mountaineers, having come up in 1832 as clerk for 
Captain Bonneville, whose graphic narrative is be- 
fore the world. 

Long before daylight on the following morning 
we were in the saddle ; I found, to my inexpressible 
regret, that my horse, from some cause or other, 
was so lame in one foot as to be scarcely able to put 
it to the ground, and the Major gave me the com- 
forting assurance that I would have to leave him on 
the road. As I was unable, from the scarcity of 
horses at the Post, to obtain a substitute, I deter- 
mined to push on as fast as possible, trusting to 
luck to get through. 

There are few things so discouraging to a travel- 
ler as to find his horse unfit for duty at the very 
time his best powers are required. In this unpleas- 
ant state of affairs we commenced our homeward 
journey, and as if in sympathy with our rather for- 
lorn condition, the sky was overcast with dull, leaden 
clouds, while the wind whistled in a way that told 
of a rising storm. "While recrossing the river at 
the little Man dan village, my lame horse lost his 
footing on the smooth ice, and after a struggle fell. 



264 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

The difficulty of getting him on his feet again, de- 
layed us a little ; but when we reached the shelter 
of the bluffs, and the hard frozen crust of the snow 
bore up our horses, we pushed on at a good gait. 
By the time we got to the Red Springs we were in 
a regular storm and '^ pouderie,'" the wind dead 
ahead of us, and intensely cold. Not a human 
being was stirring in the Indian camp, and we passed 
through without attracting the slightest attention. 
But when we emerged from the shelter of the high 
hills, the fierce, wintry blast burst upon us with all 
its fury, fairly taking away our breath, and with 
great difficulty our horses were made to face it. 

All signs of the trail were completely lost in the 
drifting snow; but nevertheless, my Indian guide 
kept on his way without an instant's hesitation. 
Once only, for a short time did we lose our proper 
direction ; so terrible was the storm that the figure 
of my companion, though only a length ahead, was 
at times invisible. I drew my fox-skin cap close 
over my eyes, and with my capeshaw pulled over 
that, was well protected. 

As the shades of evening gathered, the storm 
lulled for a while, and leaving the high prairie, our 
route lay through a sheltered bottom which was 
thickly populated by a village of prairie dogs. 
About ten miles below our destination we again 



HOME AGAIN. 265 

crossed the river, and overtook half a dozen lodges 
of Rees travelling up to the Gros Ventres. We 
were almost within sight of the forts, when the 
storm, as if it had gathered fresh strength by its 
temporary lull, commenced with renewed violence ; 
and although we had so nearly completed our jour- 
ney, it was next to impossible to proceed. 

The next morning I examined my horse's foot, 
and found he had " snas^s^ed " himself in the sole. 
All efforts to extract it being unavailing, a dressing 
was applied and he was turned out to rest and re- 
cruit. It was not until green grass came, that sup- 
puration set in, and the snag could be taken out, 
after which old " Mac " was as well as ever. 

"With but a single exception, that was the hardest 
day's travel I ever experienced ; not from distance, 
though that was about fifty miles by the course we 
were compelled to take, but from the long exposure 
to such a terrible storm. 

23 



CHAPTER XXIY. 

BUFFALO HAMSTRUNG BY WOLVES — CAMP BEGINS TO BREAK 

UP HORSES STOLEN — MANDAN KILLED IN CAMP BY THE 

SIOUX — DARING ESCAPE — AN INDIAN HEROINE — A SEA- 
SON OF PERIL. 

IFOUKD on my return to the camp that the buf- 
falo had been driven in close by the severe 
weather, and the Indians went out to surround al- 
most every other day. 

On one of these hunts I wounded a fat young 
COW, and although well-mounted, she seemed for a 
short time to defy the speed of my horse. As we 
dashed on, the cow in advance, I saw her slip and 
fall as she climbed a butte, and not willing to run 
that risk myself, I rode rapidly around it, expecting 
from the advantage her fall gave me, to catch her 
on the opposite side. My horse was at his best 
speed to cut her off, my pistol drawn, ready for use, 
when we came suddenly upon a ravine right before 
us. It was wide, and its depth was hard to tell, 
since it was nearly filled by a snow-drift. To stop 
in time was impossible, from the speed I was going, 

(266) 



BUFFALO HAMSTRUNG BY WOLVES. 267 

SO giving my horse every assistance with leg and 
rein, he threw his energies into the leap, and just 
cleared it. My pistol was still in my hand, and 
having taken off a mitten to use it, I found my 
forefinger (which had pressed against the cold iron) 
slightly frozen. To dismount, and restore the cir- 
culation by rubbing it with snow, was the work of 
a few moments, and then I galloped on after my 
cow, knowing she was pretty well run down by this 
time. 

Following hard on her tracks, I at length came 
up with her, and was surprised beyond all expression, 
to find her at bay, surrounded by a gang of wolves. 
Some were tearing large pieces of flesh from her, 
as the poor animal toiled slowly and painfully on, 
dragging her hindquarters ; for she had been ham- 
strung by these sneaking wretches. The blood 
streamed from the gaping wounds, and many of the 
wolves were smeared with gore. 

I had read of scenes like this, and given them 
partial credence only; but here was the reality 
being enacted before me. 

When I rode within a few paces, the cow bristled 
up, flirting her tail, and essayed a charge, but fell 
upon her knees. A friendly bullet cut short her 
misery; and taking her tongue, I rode off, a short 
distance to watch the actions of the wolves, who. 



268 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

unintimidated by my presence, could hardly be 
driven away. The instant my back was turned they 
rushed upon the body. In an incredibly short time 
there was but little left beside the head, and the 
wolves sat around, complacently licking their chops. 
As a parting benediction, I favored one gentleman 
with a leaden pill to aid his digestion ; and then re- 
joined the hunters who were busy butchering. My 
friend the Bobtail- Wolf and his relations were 
loading their horses, and enjoying a great luxury in 
the way of a piece of fresh raw liver. The blood 
streaming over their faces, made me think that the 
difference between two-legged and four-legged 
wolves was not so great after all. 

Towards the end of February a spell of mild 
weather set in, the trails around the camp became 
wet and slushy, while the melting snow covered the 
ice with water. This created alarm in the minds of 
some of the Indians, lest by the speedy breaking up 
of the river, the low point upon which the camp 
was located might be flooded and cause destruction 
of property. Some of the more timid ones worked 
themselves into a perfect fever, and were almost 
afraid to sleep at night. 

The mild weather had the effect of making the 
buffalo triavel out into the " large," and moving 
camp was talked of in consequence. Meanwhile 



CAMP BREAKING UP. 269 

the thaw continued, and there was so much water 
on the ice that the Indians were afraid to cross their 
horses. Some were in favor of going to the bluffs 
just back of the point, others of moving down to 
an eligible place midway between their present 
camp and the summer village. For a time no 
determination was reached ; until one morning the 
Last -Stone's horses were brought up, and his 
women began packing their effects. By noon, he 
with his relations, numbering altogether some thirty 
or forty men, women and children, started off, 
announcing their intention of going down to the 
bad lands, and there remaining until the river 
should break up; when, the winter hunt beinff 
fully over, all would return to the summer village. 
This was the beginning of the exodus. Every day 
one or more families departed to join the Last-Stone, 
and as their deserted cabins were immediately 
seized for firewood, in a short time the size of the 
camp was perceptibly diminished, and our circle of 
visitors had fallen off wonderfully. 

There was little or no trading going on ; the 
snow melted rapidly, (although there was still 
plenty on the prairie,) and the inspiriting sound of 
the Indian drum was heard only at intervals. The 
numerous vacant places, with perhaps a chimney 
standing where a cabin had been, looked desolate 

23* 



270 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

enough, making one regret the bustling, lively 
times in the early winter. 

More families continued to leave, until there 
was not more than half the original camp remaining. 
The " soldiers " did not move, and the headquarters 
were here as long as they stayed. 

An Indian arrived one day from the lower camp, 
and reported that ten horses had been stolen by the 
enemy the night before. This news caused much 
alarm among the Indians, and nothing would do, 
but all must retreat to the lower camp and join 
forces. The soldiers held a council, and harangued 
that none should move away, under penalty of 
having their property cut to pieces, and perhaps 
their horses killed. This effectually put a stop to 
any further stampeding, and the horse-guards exer- 
cised redoubled vigilance. 

Fresh meat began to get scarce again, and the 
Indians were loth to break in upon their dried 
stores. 

Another hunt was therefore arranged, comprising 
all the able-bodied warriors, and leaving no one 
behind but the women, children, and superannuated 
men. 

Now was a time of great tribulation; suppose 
the camp should be attacked while its defenders 
were away ? The people were in constant terror ; 



MANDAN KILLED. 271 

my spy-glass would be borrowed a dozen times a 
da}^, by somebody who imagined he had "seen some- 
thing;" and there were certainly few who slept at 
night without having at least one eye and ear open. 
This delectable state of affairs was much increased 
by the arrival in the night of a couple of messengers 
from the Riccarees, who came in hot haste to say 
that the Tobacco, a Mandan, while quietly going 
from one camp to the other, a distance perhaps of 
two or three hundred yards, was shot down by a 
war-party of Sioux, who, with a yell of defiance, 
made good their escape. 

The camp was instantly aroused, and a party 
mounted and took the trail. When the messengers 
left, they had not returned, and strong hopes were 
indulged that they had been successful in overtaking 
their hated foe and inflicting terrible vengeance. 

This startling news created a profound sensation, 
and comments were freely exchanged among young 
and old. The daring of the Sioux was beyond all 
precedent ; to attack and kill in the very heart as it 
were of their enemy's camp, within sight and hear- 
ing of hundreds of their mortal foes. " What would 
they do next?" Every one asked this question of 
himself. 

After this there was no running from lodge to 
lodge; when darkness came, all kept within doors, 
though not without a strong feeling of appre- 



272 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

hension. The squaws barricaded the entrances 
with firewood and lumber, to prevent their being 
rudely opened, for a feeling of insecurity was ever 
present in the minds of all. Ho one ventured far 
from the encampment, and further intelligence from 
the Rees was eagerly awaited. 

"We afterwards learned that the pursuing party 
followed the Sioux beyond the forks of Knife River, 
when a snow-storm set in, blinding the tracks, and 
compelled them to give up the chase after travelling 
nearly twenty hours. At one time they were so 
near that they could see the buffalo dividing on 
either side as the Sioux made their way through 
them. So hot was the pursuit that the Sioux had 
not made a single halt from the moment they com- 
menced their retreat. There were but two of them, 
and this veiy fact contributed to their escape. 

The Rees returned in moody temper, and breath- 
ing vows of vengeance, with their horses badly used 
up. Another large party immediately started out, 
determined not to come back until they had accom- 
plished something. 

Among them was a young Riccaree squaw, whose 
husband had been killed some time since in battle. 
This heroine announced her intention of going on 
the war-path, and marrying the first of the party 
who should strike or kill a foe. The Tobacco was 
a very quiet Indian, and a universal favorite among 



A SEASON OF PERIL. 273 

his companions. He very rarely came around the 
whites unless he had something to trade. His skin 
was much fairer than the generality of Indians, and 
his hair had a yellowish tinge. Many said he was a 
half-breed, and he certainly looked like one. As is 
generally the case, the quiet and inoffensive Indians 
are picked off, and the rascals live on and flourish. 

More pleasant, spring-like weather prevailed, and 
the Indians began to be uneasy again lest the river 
should suddenly break its icy fetters and overflow 
their camp. Eemoving was a subject of constant 
discussion, and everything pertaining to the chase 
was totally lost sight of. The band of soldiers 
decided not to join the lower camp, but to move out 
to the hills, where they would have the same ad- 
vantages of pasturage and game which they had 
enjoyed throughout the winter. In a few days the 
cabins were deserted, and the skin lodges pitched 
on the prairie at the edge of the bluffs, about a mile 
distant. The squaws took advantage of the fine 
weather to dress as many skins as possible before 
returning to the summer village. 

Several horses were stolen, biit they belonged to 
Indians who had incautiously left them out all night. 
The snow was rapidly disappearing, and it was the 
season when war-parties might be expected to hover 
around ; untiring watchfulness was therefore neces- 
sary, s 



CHAPTER XXV. 

SKIN LODGES — NARROW ESCAPE FROM A WAR-PARTY — 
FINAL BREAKING UP OF THE WINTER CAMP — SCENES ON 
THE ROAD — HOME AGAIN — END OF THE WINTER HUNT. 

IT was now the latter end of March. The buffalo 
were getting poor in flesh, as it was near the 
time to calve. The hair on their skins was becoming 
loose, and falling off where the animals rubbed 
themselves, making what is known as a spotted 
robe, and of far less value than one killed in the 
depth of winter, when the hair is firm and black. 
The horses also w^ere well run down, and many 
which had been prime runners in the fall were now 
hardly able to " catch a cow," although the speed 
of the latter, as might naturally be supposed, was 
greatly reduced. The women had a comparatively 
easy time, for the skin lodges did not require much 
fuel to make them comfortable. 

We lay encamped in this manner almost four 
weeks. The w^eather was occasionally quite spring- 
like, and then again cold and stormy, with heavy 

( ^74) 



A NARROW ESCAPE. 275 

falls of snow. At times there would be so mucli 
water on the ice that no Indian would venture to 
cross, and perhaps in a few days it would be frozen 
seemingly as hard as in midwinter. 

Whenever there was an air-hole of any magni- 
tude, crowds of both sexes would resort to it for a 
bath, sublimely indifferent to the chilling state of the 
water and atmosphere. These hardy people seem 
perfectly insensible to cold ; their constant exposure 
from infancy upwards rendering their bodies as 
callous as their faces. A Mandan, the Big-Left- 
Hand, told me that, when a comparatively young 
man, he could hunt the buffalo on horseback in the 
coldest weather, with no other protection than a 
breechcloth. 

Having occasion to make another trip to the fort, 
I started early in the morning with a voyageur of 
the American Fur Company, who was going down 
to Fort Berthold. We travelled rapidly, and when 
within a mile or so of the lower camp, (though it 
was out of sight among the Mauvaises Terres,) we 
dismounted to rest. We could plainly see the Indian 
horses feeding among the hills, and when after resum- 
ing our saddles, we came in sight of the lodges, a great 
commotion was evident. Mounted Indians galloped 
to and fro, gathering up their horses and hurrying 



276 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

them into camp, and as we drew near, the warriora 
dashed past us in full battle-array. 

A few words explained everything. "While we 
were quietly resting on the ridge, a small war-party 
of Sioux, five in all, were stealthily approaching us 
under cover of a ravine, and were preparing to fire, 
when they were discovered by the scouts from the 
Gros Ventre camp. The alarm was instantly 
signalled, resulting, as we have seen, in the gathering 
in of the horses, and the starting out of the warriors. 
Finding themselves discovered, the Sioux, knowing 
that immediate pursuit would take place, retreated 
precipitately ; while we, unconscious of our narrow 
escape, leisurely remounted our horses and con- 
tinued on our way, until we met the Indians hurrying 
forth. 

We remained in camp all night, to learn the result 
of the pursuit. The following forenoon the warriors 
returned, having followed the tracks a long distance, 
until they feared from the direction that they might 
fall into an ambuscade, and concluded to abandon 
the chase. We then proceeded on our journey, and 
arrived at the fort without further adventure. 

Upon my return to camp I found that the soldiers, 
*fter a consultation, had harangued to move in 
three days, and every one was busied with prepara- 
tions. The teams had been sent from the fort to 



SCENES BY THE WAY. 277 

move down all the goods, peltries, and other " plun- 
der" remaining on hand, and now, that uncertainty 
as to their future movements was at an end, a better 
feeling prevailed among the Indians. 

On the day appointed to move camp, the squaws 
were early astir ; horses were driven up and saddled, 
and all awaited the order to pull down the lodges. 

One by one started off and took up the line of 
march, which was headed by the Poor- Wolf, who 
" carried the pipe " on this occasion. Soon all 
were in motion, pressing forward with glee, amid the 
incidents peculiar to an Indian camp on the march. 

The gay young ''•bannerets'' caracoled about on 
their fancy horses, and seemed to enjoy greatly this 
opportunity of displaying themselves. Sometimes 
the load of a pack-horse would become disarranged, 
when off he would go, plunging and kicking, fol- 
lowed by two or three squaws, whose shrill exclama- 
tions of anger were ill calculated to quiet him. 
Then again would occur a melee, in which fifty or a 
hundred dogs, harnessed to their travees, participated, 
to the great detriment of their loads, but very little 
to their own, the harness and travees protecting 
them. These combats would be as suddenly ended 
by the squaws rushing in among them and dealing 
their blows right and left, changing the fierce snarls 
to a succession of deprecatory yells and cries. 
24 



278 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

Our second day's march led us through a rolling 
prairie, and along the ridge, almost within sight of 
the winter-quarters formerly occupied by a portion 
of the camp. But no horses were feeding among 
the hills, no smoke curling up from the lodges 
floated softly in the air. The camp was deserted, 
and its occupants had gone to the summer village, 
where we were soon to join them. 

We camped that evening on a little creek, called 
by the Indians, Blue Water. Fuel was plenty, and 
the pasturage so luxuriant that our horses did not 
wander off a hundred yards. 

A spark from one of the fires, wafted by the air, 
kindled the dry grass into a flame, and fanned by 
the wind it blazed furiously on every side. 

Quick as thought the alarm was given, and every 
one rushed forth to fight the fire with whatever 
happened to be at hand. One picked up a robe, 
another a blanket, a third an apishamore, others 
trampled it out with their feet; while several squaws 
used large pieces of dry meat, which they were pre- 
paring for the kettles, with excellent effect. The 
flames were soon extinguished by these combined 
and vigorous exertions. In a few seconds more 
the fire would have spread beyond control, and the 
whole camp have been laid in ashes. The grass 
was as dry and inflammable as tinder, and when 



NIGHT ALARMS. 279 

once under headway, would have burnt furiously. 
This excitement having subsided, quiet reigned 
once more, but the night was not suffered to pass 
without further alarms. 

The whole camp was thrown into sudden commo- 
tion by the rapid discharge of two or three guns, 
followed by an attempted stampede of the horses ; 
several broke from their fastenings and rushed 
through the camp, but were luckily stopped and 
secured. The women and dogs added the music of 
their voices to the general clamor, and for a short 
time the confusion was indescribable. When quiet 
was restored, it was ascertained that nothing was 
missing, although one of the young men who fired 
the alarm, confidently declared that he had seen 
something creeping through a cooley towards some 
horses. 

1^0 reconnoissance was attempted, for it would 
have been madness, if not impracticable, and a 
posture of defence was maintained until daylight, 
when hostile footprints were discovered crossing the 
bed of the creek. ^N'o enemy being in sight, how- 
ever, the horses were released from their fastenino-s, 
and the camp fell into its regular routine. 

While descending the slope leading into the tim- 
bered bottom below the village, a bull was discovered, 
and successfully run by nearly one half the mounted 



280 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

men, who appeared to enter into the fun with all 
their hearts. As we entered the trail through the 
timber, each one seemed animated by a desire to 
press forward as quickly as possible, and, as a natu- 
ral consequence^ collisions and jars in the dense 
thickets were of constant occurrence. 

Soon the gay cavalcade emerged from the forest 
glades, and crossed the broad sand-bar left bare by 
the receding waters of the previous autumn ; and 
climbing up the steep bluff upon which their village 
was built, were once again at home, in their favorite 
summer haunt. 

The dull monotony that had ruled since their de- 
parture in the fall, was at an end. Droves of horses 
scattered forth on the prairies, and the rival forts 
were thronged with crowds of visitors, each one 
intent on getting a cup of coffee in the Indian room, 
according to the usual custom when they returned 
from winter-quarters. 

The busy squaws were hard at work, putting the 
large, round dirt lodges in habitable order, carrying 
firewood, and cooking. 

Their lords and masters, after watering and driv- 
ing the horses out upon the prairie, sauntered from 
one fort to the other, and from lodge to lodge, eating 
their fill, and spending their time in royal ease. 

The Winter Hunt was at an end. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

SPRING — MAKING PACKS — DANCING — BUFFALO EVERY- 
WHERE MEDICINE PICTURES ASSINNIBOINES ON THE 

WAR-PATH — A SUCCESSFUL PARTISAN — KINDLING THE 

WAR-SPIRIT GRIM MEETING OF HOSTILE INDIANS — WILD 

FOWL — BREAKING UP OF THE ICE — EXCITING SCENES. 

SPREN'G had come. The Indians had made an 
excellent hunt, and we expected to have in con- 
sequence a very good trade. But the squaws were 
so busy repairing their dirt lodges, in addition to 
their ordinary domestic duties, that they had as yet 
dressed but few robes, except those which they 
traded to supply immediate wants. But, upon the 
strength of what they would do when their robes 
were dressed, the men lounged between the two 
forts, begging all they could from one Company, and 
threatening in case of refusal to give their patronage 
to the other. 

Every Indian who had any robes at his disposal, 
was therefore courted and treated with the greatest 
consideration. Each morning a large camp-kettle, 
full of well-boiled coffee and liberally sweetened, 

24* (281) 



282 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

was set out in the Indian room, with an accompany- 
ing pan of small biscuit, each about the size of a 
Spanish dollar. To each one that came in was given 
a biscuit, and a tin-cup full of the beverage ; and if 
desirable to pay special attention, he was invited 
into the Bourgeois' room, where his cup of coffee 
was infinitely more worthy of the name, and the 
biscuit considerably larger. 

This daily morning reception took place at both 
Posts, and, as may well be imagined, was extensively 
attended by the notabilities of the Minnetaree camp. 
The sum and substance of their conversation was 
" mahts-ee-quoah," (sugar,) and how many cups of it 
they could get for a robe. 

The first thing I heard after the gates were opened, 
was the inquiry if the "mahts-ee-quoah" was ready, 
and the last thing before closing them for the night 
was "mahts-ee-quoah." 

McBride lost all patience at this state of affairs. 

"D these Indians," he would say, "it's setoh- 

minne mahts-ee-quoah" (sugar all the time with 
them). 

The weather was cold and the river still frozen, 
although there was plenty of water on the ice. But 
the wild fowl commencing to fly northward, gave 
assurance that spring was at hand, and on all the 
lakes and creeks around, the shooting was capital. 



MAKING PACKS — DANCES. 283 

We were busy for several days in making packs ; 
i. e., tying up our robes and peltries into bales, for 
shipment to the States. Ten buffalo robes are put 
into a pack, and securely tied with cords cut out of 
a raw hide. Wolf, fox, elk, deer, and beaver skins 
are also tied into packs, containing various numbers 
according to size. 

We were also occupied in salting and curing the 
remainder of the buffalo tongues on hand, and 
packing them up into barrels. ^ 

The Indians gambled as vigorously as ever, and 
many robes and guns, and sometimes horses, changed 
hands in the course of the day. The various bands 
or societies had also their season of dances. That 
galaxy of beauty, the Wild-Goose band, was the 
first to indulge in a fete champetre, which example 
was quickly followed by the others. 

Some of the dances were wild and very picturesque, 
that of the Lance Band in particular, being com- 
posed of warriors in the prime of life, splendidly 
arrayed, with bonnets or head-dresses of war-eagle 
feathers, and bearing lances decorated with plumes, 
and pennons of scarlet and blue cloth. They of 
course paid us a visit, and danced in the fort, singing 
and firing off their fusees in the air. A present was 
given them after the dance was finished, as is the 
custom. 



284 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

'" The "Strong Hearts" also took an opportunity 
to display themselves; conspicuous among them 
was my friend Doctor E-ten-ah-pen-ah, who, dressed 
and painted in a style indescribably grotesque, en- 
acted his part as if the whole burden of success 
rested upon his shoulders. He wore a number of 
small wood shavings stained with vermilion in his 
hair, each the symbol of a wound received. 

Every time a dance came off in the fort, a present 
was^iven or thrown to the participants, whereupon 
they danced more vigorously, and redoubled their 
shouts and yells ; and as these festivities were of 
daily occurrence, our liberality was heavily taxed. 

Horse-racing in the evenings became again the 
popular amusement. On one occasion a difficulty 
arose as to the allotment of the stakes, and from 
words they came to blows, until finally one of the 
disputants put an arrow through the heart of the 
winning horse. Thi-s act made a great talk in the 
village, but as the aggressor belonged to a powerful 
clan, the insult was suffered to pass by without 
further notice. 

The next day not a vestige of the horse remained, 
the dogs having enjoyed a grand feast during the 
night. 

As if by magic, one morning the vast expanse of 
prairie on the opposite side of the river was dis- 



BUFFALO EVERYWHERE. 285 

covered to be, as the Indians expressed it, "Black 
everywhere with a terrible plenty of buftalo." 
Some of the herds came down to the very edge of 
the timber, and every one rejoiced at the sight. The 
soldiers harangued in the village to stop all un- 
necessary noise, and get ready for the surround. 

The houses in the fort were patronized by the 
idlers, who discussed the appearance of the buffalo, 
and speculated upon it in their own deliberate way. 
It was not policy to object to this wholesale invasion 
of our quarters, for they regarded the traders sim- 
ply in the light of a convenience, eagerly seeking for 
the very articles which these lords of the forest and 
prairie had no use for. They could not wear all 
the skins their women dressed, nor could they eat 
them. If the traders were not here to buy them, 
giving in exchange blankets and cloth and other 
desirable luxuries, they would have to leave them 
on the prairie. And by sitting around the huge 
blazing fires in the houses of the whites, they saved 
fuel in their own lodges, and spared the squaws the 
labor of carrying so much firewood. Moreover the 
pipes of chash-hash-ash they so freely indulged in, 
cost them nothing; therefore entertaining these 
ideas, it was hardly a matter of surprise that they 
looked upon the fort as greatly honored by their 
presence. 



286 AMONG THE INDIANS 

The Indian room was particularly favored, and as 
the Interpreter in charge was exceedingly averse to 
this state of affairs, and was at no pains to conceal 
his dislike, the young bucks especially found great 
delight in purposely tormenting him. My room 
was the headquarters of many of the principal men ; 
Old Eaising-Heart, the Bobtail- Wolf, Snakeskin, 
the Hawk, and Doctor E-ten-ah-pen-ah were regu- 
larly in attendance. 

My comrade, the Bobtail-Wolf, continued his 
lessons in the language, repeating over and over 
words and phrases until I had got them correctly 
and written them down, to his intense satisfaction 
and the astonishment of the rest of my red-skinned 
friends. After an animated conversation, (almost 
always enlivened by a cup of coffee,) the coterie 
would disperse to attend to their horses, or some 
public business in the village. The Bobtail- Wolf 
usually remained behind to enjoy a quiet sleep, and 
should I have occasion to leave my house, sometimes 
for hours, the old gentleman would always stay 
to do the honors to any visitors dropping in. The 
greatest treat I could give my friend, was a large 
pan of bouillon, or broth, in which fresh meat had 
been boiled, well seasoned with salt and pepper, to 
which latter condiment he was especially partial. 

I had decorated the log walls of my room with 



MEDICINE PICTURES — SURROUND. 287 

several colored prints representing buffalo hunts, 
which were a source of great interest to my visitors. 
Everything was carefully and truthfully criticised; 
any defect in attitude or shape ; any error of cos- 
tume or weapons; all these little minuti^ were 
regularly and accurately commented on. 

Often was I importuned to sell these pictures, but 
I objected, for they seemed a connecting link be- 
tween the refinements of civilization and the 
roughness of savage life. "When the buffalo made 
their appearance, as before related, in such prodi- 
gious numbers, I said that I knew they were com- 
ing, that my pictures were strong medicine, and so 
long as I kept them on the walls, buffalo would be 
close and plenty. This announcement made quite 
a sensation among my hearers, and the virtues of 
my pictures were at once admitted. 

The " surround " was made, the Indians crossing 
over on the ice, which was still strong enough to 
bear them, except at the banks, where an open strip 
of a few yards often caused a great deal of trouble. 
The heavily laden pack-horses would struggle fear- 
fully and sometimes have to be unloaded before 
they could be extricated. The buffalo remained for 
several weeks apparently as plenty as ever; but 
after a few surrounds, the crossing became so bad 
that many ifunters would not risk their horses, and 



288 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

a regularly organized system was accordingly aban- 
doned, all being at liberty to hunt as they pleased. 
Many crossed over, and " approached " with great suc- 
cess. One of these small parties returned early in 
the morning in hot haste, and recrossed with the 
utmost celerity. 

They reported having discovered a party of Sioux 
making their way towards the timber, evidently 
with the intention of laying in ambush for some 
one of the many hunters that were constantly 
straggling through the forest. 

Avoiding them by a detour, they arrived first at 
the river, and crossing, gave the alarm. In an in- 
stant the excitement in the village was terrible, and 
the warriors were soon armed and on the ice, dis- 
appearing in a dense body through the timber. 

A short interval of anxious suspense ensued, 
when the silence was broken by the rattling of 
arms, and all the yells and cries that accompany an 
Indian battle. Expectation was raised to the high- 
est pitch, when suddenly the warriors appeared on 
the bar, escorting a small party of men in white 
blanket capotes. Almost everybody rushed down 
to the landing-place to receive them, and as they 
drew near they proved to be a portion of a large 
Assinniboine war-party against the O^cpapas and 
Blackfeet. They had been detached from the 



WAE-PARTr OF A S S I N N IB IN E S. 



289 



mam body to bring to the Gros Ventre village one 
of their number, who had been taken sick and was 
unfit for continuing on the war-path. The firing 
&c., was therefore intended merely as a salute to 
the strangers, who were invited into the lodges, and 
treated with all possible hospitality. Thev said 
that over three hundred lodges of Assinniboines, 
trees, and a few Chippeways were coming down to 
the Gros Ventres when the green grass came, to 
unite with them in making the great Sun Medicine 
The Sioux had been harassing their camp (just 
below the mouth of the Yellowstone) all winter 
and had recently made an attack by which they 
had lost seven of their warriors, and had a number 
. severely wounded, but still able to make their 
escape. 

The excitement that attended the arrival of these 
warriors was not sufl^ered to die out ; for the next 
afternoon two more of the party who had gone on 
arrived m great glee, with three horses and a colt 
they had stolen. They reported that the number 
of Sioux lodges in the bad lands of Heart Eiver 
was "terrible "-all the horses tied close at night, 
and every precaution taken to avoid surprise. Just 
as they were about to give up their attempt in 
despair, they came upon three lodges a little apart ~ 
from the main body, and were fortunate enough to 
26 r 



290 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

Bteal the horses. The rest of the party (from whom 
they had separated) had not been seen, and they 
could not afford to lose any time in hunting them 
up. The prairie had been set on fire by the Sioux, 
and the fate of their comrades was very uncertain. 
The Assinniboines made a very short stay, and 
hurried on to their camp, now supposed to be on 
White River. 

Two others arrived before night, without any 
spoils or any tidings of their companions; but early 
the following day the three remaining Assinniboines 
appeared in great triumph, driving before them 
eleven fine horses in excellent condition. There 
were now only two more of the party to be ac- 
counted for, and there seemed hardly a possibility ' 
of their escape. 

The successful partisan of this foray was quite a 
young, handsome fellow, dressed, as is the usual 
custom when going to war, in a white blanket 
capote and capeshaw. As he proudly ascended 
the bank, his horses led, and weapons carried, by 
officious friends, gazed at admiringly by all the 
young squaws, envy was rife in the breasts of the 
Minnetaree warriors, who now burned to distinguish 
themselves on the war-path. War was indeed in 
every one's head, and nothing but war-parties was 
thought of or talked about. Pierre Garreau, who 



KINDLING THE WAR-SPIRIT. 291 

had been unceasingly urging upon the young m-en 
to avenge his sons' death, and wipe out the insult 
offered to their people, and had got no satisfaction 
but promises, now found the tide of public feeling 
turned on war, with a force and fury he had little 
anticipated. After giving a couple of their horses 
to the Gros Ventres, the successful warriors started 
for their camp, but it seemed that the blaze which was 
now burning fiercely should suffer no diminution. 

The same evening a party of thirty-eight Assinni- 
boines arrived, with proposals that the Gros Ventres 
should unite with them in a general war against 
the Sioux. Hardly had they told their tale, ere the 
remaining two, who had been given up for lost, 
came in, completely jaded and worn-out. They 
also had been fortunate in stealing five horses the 
night after the eleven were taken, when the Sioux 
were exercising their utmost vigilance. But so 
sharp was the pursuit that they were compelled to 
abandon their spoils ; and so close upon them were 
the Sioux at one time, that they could hear them 
calling from one to another, " Where are the dogs 
that eat dirt ? " They secreted themselves in a hole, 
and remained there all that night and the next day, 
but succeeded the following evening in eluding 
their foes and effecting their escape. 



292 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

While the buffalo were so near, the hunters deter- 
mined upon having one more surround before the 
breaking up of the river. 

Thej crossed in the afternoon, intending to 
bivouac on the other side, and have their horses 
fresh for the hunt in the morning. 

The next day there was an alarm of Sioux, and 
for a short time the usual confusion prevailed ; but 
the matter was partially explained when the hunters 
made their appearance on the bar, and prepared to 
recross, having abandoned the idea of hunting. 
Two Sioux from the Oncpapa camp were with them. 
It seems that a son of the Crow's-Breast, while 
taking his horses to pasture, found a couple of 
Indians sleeping. The tramp of hoofs aroused them, 
and they sprang to their feet and called out to him. 
But he, mortally scared, ran back whooping and 
yelling to the hunters, who, rushing forward, dis- 
covered their error. They came to the Gros Ventres 
from their own camp at the forks of Knife River, to 
ascertain where was the camp of the Assinniboines 
who had stolen their horses. Finding a fat cow the 
afternoon previous, badly wounded with an arrow, 
they killed her for meat. This detained them so 
late that they slept in the timber, not caring about 
entering the village at night. The Sioux were 
received, belonging as they did to the Oncpapas, 



GRIM MEETING. 293 

who were on friendly terms, with all hospitality. 
The Gros Yentres showed their appreciation of the 
rights of neutrals, by preventing any demonstration 
by either Sioux or Assinniboines, who scowled at 
each other when they met, but attempted no vio- 
lence. The Oncpapas however gave the Assinni- 
boines to understand that a large war-party, consist- 
ing of nearly all the fighting-men, would take the 
field immediately on their return, and that they 
would "rub out" the whole Assinniboine camp. This 
put the latter in an immense excitement, and they 
were in the utmost hurry to get back as soon as 
possible, and give the alarm, that they could retrace 
their steps to the heart of their own country for 
safety. 

Taking advantage of the excitement in the villao-e. 
a w^ar-party of eight Gros Ventres under the Eound- 
Man as partisan, stole ofiT in the dead of night, 
against the orders of the soldier band. 

The two Sioux remained a day, and then returned 
to their own camp, saying that a large party might 
be expected in to trade after the river broke, which 
from the quantity of water on the ice, and the 
general thaw that had set in, could not be far off. 

The wild fowl in immense numbers began to fly 
north, a sure sign that the icy grasp of winter would 
soon be loosed. The next day the river com- 
2d* 



294 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

menced rising with great rapidity, and there was so 
much water now on the ice that it was impossible 
to cross. 

In the afternoon of the second day the ice com- 
menced breaking up, and moved down several hun- 
dred yards, when it formed a gorge and stuck fast, 
but the river rising rapidly, bid fair to start it again 
in a few hours. 

Everybody had been watching for its first move- 
ment, and when the dull, crushing sound that accom- 
panied it struck the ear, the excitement and joy were 
universal. The men in the fort dropped their work 
and rushed to the river's brink, along with hundreds 
of Indians; while the tops of the lodges were 
crowded with eager, excited groups, and the dogs 
of course testified their entire approbation by pro- 
longed and vigorous howls. 

By nightfall the gorge broke, and the ice rushed 
by, whirling, crushing, and grinding in huge cakes 
and masses, intermixed with floating tree-tops, and 
logs of all shapes and sizes. 

Through the night the sullen noise, as of distant 
thunder, continued, and morning revealed the river 
full from bank to bank, and running by with im- 
petuous current. 

It was a strange and interesting sight, and one 
could spend hours along the bank watching the 



ICE BREAKS UP. 295 

rush of waters, the floating cakes of ice, and the 
whirling logs, carried off from sand-bars where they 
had been snugly reposing since the fall of the flood 
in the previous summer, now for hundreds of miles 
to be bruised by constant contact with the ice, until 
battered and almost shapeless, they would be borne 
upon distant waters. 

The graceful regularity with which the vast float- 
ing fields of ice followed the bends of the river, and 
the glittering of the sun's rays upon their surface, 
were well worth watching. 

Young Indians, out of bravado, just before the 
river finally gave way, sprang on the moving masses 
of ice, and leaped from one to another, until they 
gained the shore ; others plunged into the chilling 
water where an eddy was comparatively free, while 
others again fired their guns and joined in the gen- 
eral outcry. 



CHAPTER XXYII. 

ARRIVAL OF THE SPRING EXPRESS — COLD SWIM — WINDS — 

ON THE WAR-PATH — HORSES STOLEN DRESSING ROBES 

— COMPETITION BLACKFOOT CHIEFTAIN PRAIRIES ON 

FIRE — DENSE SMOKE — DANCE OF THE CALUMET. 

THE arrival of Major Clark from his Post among 
the Blackfeet Indians, with the Company's 
Express for St. Louis, was the next event after the • 
breaking up of the river. He had a comfortable, 
covered Mackinaw boat, forty feet in length, with a 
crew of ten men, and was running day and night. 
The Major remair^ed with us only long enough to 
get the news at the Post, and examine into the state 
of the trade, with a view to making up the outfit for 
the ensuing year, to be brought up on the annual 
steamboat. 

The principal chiefs of the Blackfeet sent an invi- 
tation through him to the Gros Ventres to meet 
them in friendly council at the mouth of Milk River. 

After staying a little over an hour, Major Clark 
continued his voyage, his stout oarsmen plying their 
long sweeps vigorously, and running their frail 

(296) 



IIIGHWINDS. 297 

barge through the ice at the rate of fully fifteen 
miles an hour. By the next day the river had fallen 
several feet, and was comparatively free from ice. 
Drowned buffaloes floated by, and two young men 
swam out after one, and succeeded in landing it 
upon a point of the sand-bar, fully a mile below the 
village, where they proceeded to butcher it, without 
appearing in the least inconvenienced by their chill- 
ing swim. 

The early spring weather was exceedingly dis- 
agreeable. With an occasional clear, calm day, for 
over six weeks storms prevailed; the wind usually 
commenced blowing at sunrise, and only lulled at 
nightfall, filling the air with fine particles from the 
extensive sand-bars opposite the village. All day 
'the wind beat against the pickets of the fort with 
such tremendous force as to incline them consider- 
ably from the perpendicular. Often would the 
sand be driven in such clouds that it was impos- 
sible to see a dozen yards. At such times no work 
could be accomplished, and everybody stayed within 
doors, even the Indians keeping close to their lodges. 

It was during a storm of this kind that a very 
large war-party of Yanctohwah Sioux ran off a 
band of nearly two hundred horses from the Eees, 
embracing many of the very finest in the village, 



298 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

and thus struck a blow which crippled them seri- 
ously for a long time. I was in the camp a few 
days after their loss, and it was pitiable to see the 
straits to which many were reduced for food. Those 
who had horses shared the proceeds of their hunt 
with those who had none ; some families had but 
one or two remaining out of a large band, and with 
all their exertions, a surround barely furnished a 
full meal to each dweller in the camp. I was with 
them three days, and felt quite satisfied to get one 
scanty meal per diem. 

Out on the prairie, a couple of miles from the 
river, the wind was as strong as elsewhere, but 
without the annoyances of sand. It was far pleas- 
anter to remain there among the horse-guards than 
to stay within doors ; for the sand drove through the 
gaping chinks of the logs, and covered everything 
with a thick, substantial coating of dust, which put 
any approach to personal comfort out of the question. 

After the usual amount of preparation, two par- 
ties, comprising in all about sixty warriors, were 
ready for the war-path. The largest one, under 
the leadership of the Red-Tail, intended to cross 
the river and strike through the Sioux country 
until they reached Fort Pierre, where they had 
hopes of cutting off some of the lodges of Sioux 



THE WAR-SPIRIT RUNNING HIGH. 299 

always encamped in that vicinity. The other, under 
the First-Feather, was to keep on this side of the 
river, on the lookout for the camps of Yanctoh- 
wahs generally to be found there in the summer. 

Trade went on very briskly ; the squaws were 
dressing and bartering their robes as fast as pos- 
sible, and the men were supplying themselves with 
everything necessary to fit them for war. White 
blankets (to make capotes) were in the greatest 
demand, and so unusual was the rush for them 
that we began to fear we would not have enough 
left for the Sioux trade, their fancy also running 
on white, which is the favorite color for war-parties. 
Hitherto, scarlet and blue blankets had been the 
rage, but they were now not even looked at. 

Guns and ammunition were of course in request, 
and instead of the usual listless idling around, or 
the evening promenade and equestrian exercises 
of the young bucks, nothing was heard but the 
trumpet-cry of war. Those who were too old to go, 
exerted themselves to fan the martial spirit of the 
3^oung men, and one and all seemed fully imbued 
with the prevailing excitement. 

Party after party started ofi*, and there was a very 
perceptible diminution of men in the village, to be 
still further reduced when the principal expedition 
of the season should take the field. This was to 



300 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

comprise the very flower of the village, men who 
had often and successfully trodden the war-path; 
and the fact of the Four-Bears intending to accom- 
pany it, inspired those who were a little doubtful 
with fresh courage. 

It now became a serious question whether there 
would be fighting-men enough left in camp to 
guard it; and the old Dry-Pumpkin was already 
going about, haranguing not to leave the women 
and children unprotected. So thoroughly was 
everybody imbued with the fighting mania that 
even the Gambler, whose life was perfectly blame- 
less of any attempt to take human blood, declared 
his intention of going, an announcement that 
caused more surprise and remark than any yet 
made. A scarred and war-worn veteran, the Wolf's- 
Eye, was to be the partisan ; he carried the pipe ; 
and no matter what member of the party stole a 
horse, or "counted a coup," the partisan received 
the credit, for it was through his medicine that the 
deed was done. 

An interval of comparative quiet followed ; much 
was to be done in the coming moon ; the Oncpapas 
and Blackfeet would be in to trade, and returning 
war-parties might be looked for at any moment. 
We were very busy between building a boat to cross 
the trading-parties of Sioux when they should come 



DRESSING ROBES. 301 

in, erecting a bastion for the defence of our post, 
and clearing up the rubbish that had necessarily 
accumulated during the winter. 

The snow had entirely disappeared, except in a 
few sheltered places among the hills, and the Indian 
women were gathering willows to repair the fences 
around their cornfields, preparatory to breaking the 
ground for the coming crop. 

The camp was still abundantly supplied with 
meat, so there was no necessity (and very little in- 
clination, if the truth were known) for the hunters to 
go out. Every bright sunny day groups of women 
were scattered over the prairie close to the pickets 
of the village, with their children playing near them 
and their dogs of course lying around, dressing and 
preparing their robes, either for domestic use or 
trade. Those for themselves were dressed as soft 
and white as possible, while very little pains was 
taken with the skins intended for the traders. So 
keen was the rivalry between the American Fur 
Company and the Opposition, that anything with 
hair on, from an apishamore up, was eagerly taken, 
and helped to swell the number of packs. 

There is a great deal of work to be done before a 
buffalo-robe is fit for use. When it is in a green 
(or raw) state, it is stretched on a frame of poles, 
roughly but strongly lashed together in a corner of 

26 



302 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

the lodge, and the flesh adhering is carefully scraped 
off*. It is then left to dry, when it is taken down 
and put away until wanted; for during the busy 
hunting-season it is as much as a squaw can do to 
flesh the robes without finishing them. When the 
hide is to be dressed, it is laid upon the ground, and 
"scratched" with a sharpened piece of hoop-iron, 
tied to an elkhorn for a handle; this leaves it in 
a condition to be " brained," ^. e., sprinkled with 
water, and then well smeared over with buflalo 
brains and grease. After being thoroughly dried, it 
is rubbed on a cord of twisted sinew, which makes 
it soft and pliable. The two sides are then sewed 
together with sinew, and the robe is ready to be 
traded. From every robe, before sewing it, the 
squaws cut a strip down each half, the length of 
the skin, and about twelve inches wide. When a 
sufficient number accumulates, these pieces are 
sewed together and used for beds, apishamores, etc., 
of course reducing the size of the skin very 
considerably. 

The camp was thrown into a great state of excite- 
ment by the unexpected arrival of a small boat from 
Fort Union, bringing the White-Calf-that-disappears, 
Chief of the Blood Indians, a band of the Blackfeet. 
He was splendidly dressed, and had a magnificent 
bonnet of war-eagle feathers, falling to his feet; 



BLACKFOOT CHIEFTAIN. 303' 

and was accompanied by his squaw, a fine-looking 
woman. 

He had intended to await at Fort Union the ar- 
rival of the American Fur Company's steamboat, and 
greet his brother-in-law, the well-known Major Cul- 
bertson ; but Mr. Kipp the Bourgeois, fearing trouble 
from the Crows encamped close by, sent his distin- 
guished guest to Fort Berthold, where he would be 
comparatively safe. The bustle attending his arrival 
was not suffered to subside, for that night fourteen 
horses were stolen, and the next, twenty-three more, 
showing conclusively that if their war-parties had 
gone forth, the Sioux were not a whit behind ; and 
great was the panic. The camp was harangued to 
have the' pickets strengthened and filled up, and the 
Poor- Wolf, as head of the soldier band, going his 
rounds to see that these orders were obeyed, knocked 
down with his tomahawk several women who did 
not seem disposed to heed them. 

The dry rushes in the prairie bottom had been 
set on fire, and were burning steadily, threatening 
to spread far and wide. This was a fresh cause of 
alarm, for by the destruction of their pasturage the 
Indians would be compelled to drive their horses to 
a great distance, thereby increasing the risk of their 
capture. The fire burned on, sometimes feebly 
struggling for existence in the short crisp grass of 



304 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

the prairie, but blazing furiously in the dry rushes 
around the lakes and streams. 

In the course of two or three days the whole 
country seemed wrapped in flames on both sides of 
the river ; and its appearance at night, viewed from 
the bastion, was beautiful in the extreme. A high 
wind prevailed, and the flames climbed over the 
buttes, and rushed through the long grass bottoms 
with lightning speed, leaving behind them in the 
black and smoking prairie a sad scene of desolation. 
The whole atmosphere was filled with smoke, at 
times so dense that it was impossible to see any dis- 
tance, although the fire was by that time many miles 
away. While the prairies were burning close to us, 
I rode out to look up a couple of horses that had 
strayed off" from the band, and in the course of my 
hunt was obliged to cross the line of fire. Fortu- 
nately the grass on the hills was short, and burned 
slowly ; and after several unsuccessful attempts to 
force my horse over, I threw my blanket over his 
head, and covering my powder-horn with the skirt 
of my hunting-shirt, crossed the flames. 

The burning would facilitate the sprouting of the 
green grass, and had the excellent effect of causing 
several copious showers. After each of these, while 
it was clearing, some of the young men would start 
off on a foot-race, naked to the clout, amid yells and 
firing of guns. ^ 



"medicine" not neglected. 305 

JtsTotwithstanding all the wars and rumors of wars, 
the ludians did not neglect making important 
"medicines." The Bobtail- Wolf and his father-in- 
law, old Missouri, danced around the village, the 
old man wearing a robe and mask to represent a 
buffalo. In whatever lodge they danced, it was ex- 
pected that something would be "thrown" or given 
to the "medicine;" and whoever did this, received 
in return from the bull, a pan of toro or pemmican. 
This medicine was for the purpose of bringing 
buffalo, by which the old Missouri's family should 
be immediately benefited. 

The Long-Hair was also preparing to dance the 
Calumet or Pipe of Peace to the Eed-Cow. The 
whole camp talked about it : the Long-Hair bustled 
around, buying ribbons and beads to garnish the 
stem of the Pipe of Peace, and making every possible 
preparation to give eclat to the ceremony. The Red- 
Cow remained within his lodge, assisting his medi- 
tations by smokhig abundance of " Kinne-kinik." 
The young men watched the proceedings attentively, 
the young squaws put an extra touch of vermilion 
on their cheeks; while the principal men made 
medicine to decide the auspicious time for this 
most important ceremony. 

Finally the day was chosen. About noon the 
Bad-Brave and Joint appeared on the roof of the 
26* u 



306 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

Long-Hair's lodge, dressed and painted with the 
strictest regard for the occasion. 

Chanting an invocation to the Great Spirit, and 
shaking their medicine- rattles, they waved the Cal- 
umets with their sky-blue stems beautifully gar- 
nished, and war-eagle feathers fluttering from them. 
They made their medicine, first to the rising, and 
then to the setting sun ; after which they descended 
from the lodge and went inside. 

At the farthest extremity of the spacious earth- 
covered lodge, four of the principal men in the vil- 
lage, the Poor- Wolf, Crow's-Breast, Bear-Hunter, 
and Little-Fox, were singing and drumming with 
untiring vigor. Before each were placed some 
medicine-sticks. The Bad-Brave and Joint danced, 
waving the Calumets and shaking the rattles ; the 
Long-Hair sat by the fire in the centre, over which 
a kettle of buffalo-meat was cooking, smoking ; and 
as the fragrant smoke of the " kinne-kinik " was 
blown in clouds from his mouth and nostrils, he ex- 
pressed his complete satisfaction with everything, by 
the simple monosyllable, " How ! " At stated in- 
tervals the invocation from the top of the lodge was 
repeated. These ceremonies continued four days. 

On the afternoon of the fifth day the important 
finale took place. After the invocation from the 
top of the lodge and the dance inside, all adjourned 



DANCE OF THE CALUMET. 307 

to the prairie, carryiog two buffalo-skulls painted 
with vermilion. Seating themselves in a row, the 
musicians sang and drummed, and the pipe waa 
passed around. 

When it was smoked out, the party repaired to the 
lodge of the Little-Left-Hand. It was crowded with 
as many as could be accommodated without infring- 
ing on the space required for dancing. 

The oldest man and the oldest woman in the camp 
were there, as well as children in arms. 

There was no crowding ; no ugly bonnets or huge 
fans getting continually in the line of vision ; all re- 
spected the place, all were perfectly quiet, save when > 
some young and pretty squaw happened to be 
squeezed a little in passing through the crowd of 
plumed and painted braves around the door. 

By the politeness of the Little-Left-Hand I had a 
luxurious seat on a pile of robes, in the midst of the 
principal men, close by the musicians, with the 
Long-Hair on my right. 

After an introductory song and dance, a deputa- 
tion, including the musicians, went to conduct the 
Red-Cow to the lodge. In a short time they returned, 
and the procession marched several times around 
the fireplace in the following order : 

The Long-Hair; the two dancers, each carrying a 
Calumet ; Red-Cow, looking fully conscious of the 



308 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

honor paid him, yet trying to maintain a proper 
expression of countenance, supported on either side 
by the Four-Times and the Bobtail- Wolf ; next 
came his family and relations; the musicians brought 
up the rear. 

After they were seated at the head of the lodge 
the music commenced, the Bad-Brave sprang to his 
feet shaking his rattle and waving his Calumet, and 
danced with a peculiar jarring step ; the Snakeskin 
stood up and harangued, calling upon the by-standers 
to throw to the Medicine. They responded by 
coming forward one at a time, and giving guns, 
blankets, calico, scarlet and blue cloth, &c. "When 
all the presents had been given, the dancing stopped, 
and the crowd dispersed, while the Long-IIair began 
to distribute the presents he had received, among 
the Big-Dog Band. 

This is probably one of the most important of 
all the dances and medicine feasts among the 
North American Indians,. It is in fact a kind of 
baptism ; the person thus honored being distin- 
guished ever after. The Great Spirit is supposed 
to take special care of him; he will count many 
coups, and take many scalps in battle ; will be suc- 
cessful in stealing numerous fine horses from his 
enemies, and always enjoy abundance of buffalo. 



CHAPTER XXYIII. 

THE SIOUX TRADE — RETURN OP A DEFEATED WAR-PARTY — 
MORE REVERSES — FORTITUDE — INDIAN BELIEF — AR-, 
RIVAL OF CROWS. 

A SMALL party of Sioux arrived from the Ouc- 
papa camp. The leading men among them 
were the Four-Horns, Hawk-with-a-loud-voice, Yel- 
low-Thunder, Iron- Wing, War-Eagle-that-fLies-in- 
the-air, and Heart-of-Fire. They left their camp of 
many lodges on the forks of Knife River, about a 
day's journey, and said they were so loaded down 
with meat that they could hardly travel. Much 
excitement and a great deal of angry talk prevailed 
in their camp, at Pierre Garreau's pushing the Gros 
Ventres to war against the Yanctohwahs ; "for,'* 
said they, "it is the same as going to war against 
us, for we are all one people." The Sioux said their 
large war-party against the Assinniboines had been 
deferred until they should make their trade, and the 
camp moved off to the Black Hills, where, far 
removed from the din of war, in the fastnesses of their 

(309) . 



310 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

own country, the women and children could dwell 
in safety, while the warriors sought the foe. 

"The Assinniboines are dogs," they said; "we 
will hunt them until we find them ; for they cannot 
hide in the ground like a snake, nor in the water 
like a fish, nor fiy in the air like a bird ; they must 
be on the prairie, and we will find them." 

A large party was coming in a few days to talk 
about the trade, and the Gros Ventres in the village 
worked themselves up into a perfect fever of alarm, 
lest the Sioux should take advantage of the absence 
of nearly all the fighting-men to wipe out old scores. 
They were as anxious for their warriors to return 
as they had been for them to go to war ; but it was 
now too late if hostilities were designed by the 
Sioux. 

This begging party remained two days ; on the 
morning of the third they departed, promising that 
the camp would be in to trade in five or six days, 
which of course meant, not until they were ready, 
and probably as many weeks would elapse. 

A party of Indians on foot was discovered a few 
days succeeding the above events, coming up the 
sand-bar quietly, as if they wished to attract as 
little attention as possible, but the anxious inhab- 
itants soon divined the cause. It was one of the 



DEFEATED WAR-PARTY. 311 

war-parties that had started off not long since, eager 
and confident that victory would attend their arms. 
But they returned in mourning, having lost their 
partisan the First-Feather. They had long been on 
the lookout for the enemy, when one day they saw at a 
distance three buffaloes running. Halting his party, 
the First-Feather went ahead to reconnoitre ; he had 
been gone but a short time when firing was heard, 
and his warriors rushed forward — to find their 
leader dead, and the gun of a Sioux lying near him. 
They judged by the tracks that the attacking party 
was about thirteen or fourteen strong. Disheartened 
by this unlooked-for reverse, they returned in^mourn- 
ing to the village. 

The same evening an alarm was given that ^'peo- 
ple were coming." A forlorn and straggling party 
was seen approaching the village ; at the head 
walked with feeble step and evident difficulty, the 
Eound-man. All were in a most' forlorn plight; 
no blankets or moccasins, in fact, nothing but their 
weapons and breechcloths. The whole village 
turned out to meet them ; and as they came up, 
their wives and female relatives rushed to kiss them, 
while the friends of the slain warrior set up the 
mournful Indian wail of woe and despair. 

Their tale was soon told. They had penetrated 
the Sioujf country as far as Horsehead Point, near 



312 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

Long Lake, below the Cannonball River, where 
thej discovered a large camp of Yanc-toh-wahs. 
Around it they hovered, lying concealed by day, 
and prowling about in the dead of night. The in- 
habitants of the camp were busily engaged around 
a circle of fires, dancing a scalp which they had 
just taken, probably the First-Feather's. With 
infinite daring the Gros Ventre warriors stole in 
among the lodges and cut loose nine horses and 
&ve mules, with which they commenced their re- 
treat. But one of the horses, a white one, escaped, 
and ran back to camp. This gave the alarm, result- 
ing in p. hot pursuit. The Gros Ventres retreated 
in a northeasterly direction, as if they were making 
for the Red River, thereby hoping to deceive the 
enemy into the belief that they were either Chippe- 
ways or half-breeds. Being hard pressed, they aban- 
doned their horses, keejjing only one apiece to ride, 
and threw away everything except their weapons. 
In the midst of their retreat they unexpectedly en- 
countered a party of Sioux returning from an ex- 
pedition against the Assinniboines. Their horses 
began to give out, and one of their number was 
shot and scalped. ISTearly all were now more or less 
disabled ; the Round-man was shot in the mouth, 
and wounded in three other places, and fearing he 
could not hold out, told his comrades to leave him 



MORE REVERSES. 313 

to his fate and bear witness that he died like a man. 
Bat his warriors were true and stood by him ; and one 
by one the Sioux gave up the chase, as their horses 
were completely ridden down, and they had secured 
a scalp without any loss. Stripped of horses, blan- 
kets, and provisions, their ammunition and arrows 
all expended during the running fight, and crippled 
by wounds, the survivors kept on with true Indian 
fortitude; and eking out a scanty subsistence on 
roots and berries, arrived at last in forlorn plight at 
their villao^e. 

The friends and relations of the dead sat by the 
medicine poles on the prairie, cutting and gashing 
themselves, and crying to the Great Spirit. 

The Bobtail- Wolf told me that the First-Feather 
had been making medicine, and crying to the Great 
Spirit all winter ; even promising to give a robe in 
event of success in war. He made two cardinal 
errors, my informant said : First, in promising the 
robe after crying all winter; and secondly, in not 
giving it before he started. 

These unexpected reverses cast quite a gloom 
over the village; the warriors stalked moodily 
about with downcast glances, and the chiefs held 
solemn conclave in the council-lodge. 

Meanwhile every day or so there would be arri- 
vals fror- tLe Sioux. The camp itself came in sight 
27 



314 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

one afternoon, numbering several hundred lodges, 
and pitched in the prairie bottom, just beyond the 
timber. 

Very little trade of course was done the first day, 
which was one of general visiting. As several of 
the Sioux were to dance the Calumet to the Gros 
Ventres, it of course engrossed a great deal of their 
attention. 

The Sioux came over early, and traded actively 
until they were stopped by the soldiers from bring- 
ing any more robes, hoping thus to induce the trad- 
ers to cross the river with a view to robbing them. 
They found however that this artifice would not 
succeed, and allowed matters to go on as before. 

The traffic over, they departed to join the other 
division, trading with the Rees. They proposed to 
rendezvous at the forks of Knife River, and then 
move out to the Thin Hills. In spite of their threat- 
ening talk, the Sioux traded comparatively little 
ammunition. 

Beyond all doubt, had we crossed the river, we 
would have been robbed, to say the least, for at the 
E-ee Post they behaved outrageously. Moise Ar- 
can came up thence with despatches, and said that 
during a residence of over thirty years in the Indian 
country, chiefly among the Sioux, he had never 
knowil them so bad. More than two-thirds were 
in favor of hostilities, and several of the chiefs 



CROWS ARRIVE. 315 

advised all the old traders to leave the country 
soon, as war would inevitably break out. They 
said they did not want to kill those who had lived 
so long with them, and had become in a measure 
identified with themselves. 

When making their trade with us, the Sioux 
reported, all through their country towards the 
Platte, the elk, deer, bufialo, bear, and wolf dying 
in great numbers from some sickness among them, 
caused by the ^'medicine " of the whites. 

A couple of logs, lashed together to form a raft, 
such as a war-party might use to cross the river, 
floated down, and was caught, causing much specu- 
lation and anxiety among the Gros Ventres. 

Some Crows also arrived from their camp at the 
Elkhorn prairie, in search of a child which the 
Spotted-Horse (a Crow living with the Gros Ven- 
tres) had redeemed from the Sioux three summers 
before. The Sioux, in an attack upon one of the 
Crow camps, among other spoils took this child 
prisoner. The Spotted - Horse succeeded in re- 
deeming hinl for a very liberal ransom, and now 
his relatives having heard of it were anxious to 
recover him, which they did, after giving six fine 
horses, robes, and goods. They said, when the 
next moon was dead, a large party of Crows might 
be expected down to visit their relations, the Gros 
Ventres. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

THE FORT COMPLETED — RAISE THE AMERICAN FLAG — 
WARRIORS RETURN IN TRIUMPH — REJOICINGS — SCALP- 
DANCE. 

IT was now almost the middle of May, and the 
Indian women were busy hoeing their corn- 
fields, and planting ; grass was springing up every- 
where, and the burnt prairie was covered with a 
beautiful carpet of velvet-green. All the trees and 
bushes were clothed in the bright, fresh hues of 
early summer, and the balmy air was filled with 
the cheerful notes of birds. The glorious golden 
sun shone with a brilliancy and vigor which we 
had vainly longed for in the short, dark days of 
the dreary winter. The young May moon brought 
clear and calm skies, and a few weeks of active 
work completed Fort Atkinson. 

On the Sunday following, I had the honor of 
hoisting for the first time on the bastion flagstaff 
our national flag with its stars and stripes, amid the 
cheers and congratulations of the men. Little did 

(316) 



ON THE WAR-PATH AGAIN. 317* 

we think, as we watched it proudly floating over 
forest and prairie, that in scarcely a year from that 
time, that glorious banner would be trailed in the 
dust by the leaders of the most infamous rebellion 
the world ever saw. 

The war-spirit was burning as fiercely as ever, 
spite of the reverses that had befallen the Gros 
Ventres. The Eoundman had recovered from his 
wounds, and in a dream saw scalps close to the Ree 
village. He thereupon declared he was going to 
war again, and told his friends to "black their 
faces." 

The old Wolf's-Head said he thought his medi- 
cine would fool him again, for he had not cut his 
hair after losing one of his warriors, as is the duty 
of a leader. 

In a few days this redoubtable party started, in- 
tending to go as far as the Dog Buttes, in the vi- 
cinity of which they expected successfully to en- 
counter their foe, if their partisan's medicine was 
good for anything. 

Shots were suddenly heard on the prairie, and 
every one rushed forth, gun in hand, to see what 
they meant. Over the plain careered at full speed 
a band of warriors with blackened faces, whooping 
and yelling, and firing their guns. The excitement 
in the village was intense ; it was the grand war- 
27* 



318 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

party returning in triumph, bearing four scalps on 
the points of their lances. All the inhabitants 
rushed forth to greet them, the squaws singing and 
dancing in the exuberance of their joy. The vic- 
tors formed into line, and rode in a close body up 
to the village, where they halted to receive the 
praises and congratulations to which they were en- 
titled. The leaders, in the intoxication of success, 
gave away horses and guns. A pole, with hair at- 
tached, was quickly set up over the spot where the 
relatives of First-Feather and Wolf's-Eye's brother 
had bewailed them. The drum was sounded, and 
the scalp-dance commenced in the village, while 
joy and gladness reigned supreme. 

Only the evening before they had discovered a 
small party of ten, near the Dog Buttes, coming 
towards them with their arms slung, evidently not 
expecting to meet enemies. 

The Gros Ventres rushed on them; and the 
Gambler having a long lance, struck the first 
"coup" in his life. Three of the Sioux were in- 
stantly killed, and one badly wounded. But four 
scalps were taken ; they could have dispatched all, 
but the Wolf's-Eye, fearing that some cf his own 
warriors might be lost, and spoil the dancing when 
they returned to the village, called out to stop, and 
then hurried back to celebrate the victory. 



REJOICINGS. 319 

All that night and the next day the rejoicings 
continued, and the scalp-dancers flourished around 
the village. Headed by the Wolf's-Eye, the men in 
a dense group sounded their rattles, singing and 
drumming, while the squaws shuffled in a circle 
around them witli three scalps on poles, (the fourth 
having been sent down to the Rees, in order that 
they too might participate in the rejoicings,) scream- 
ing in shrill tones the scalp-song. 

The faces of all were blackened, and they looked 
like fiends of darkness let loose. 

Pierre Garreau's sons were avenged. 

In the evening the Roundman's party returned, 
straggling in a few at a time. Had they gone only 
a short distance further, they would have seen the 
enemy, but all agreed that their partisan's medicine 
was very strong and good. 



CHAPTER XXX. 

JUNE RISE — INDIAN TALK — ''MEDICINE" — THE HERMIT 
OF THE BLACK HILLS — MANDANS LEAVE FOR THEIR OLD 
VILLAGE — WOLF HUNT — CROWS ARRIVE — THEIR THIEV- 
ING PROPENSITIES — OUR HORSES LOST — CROWS DEPART 
FOR THE WIND RIVER MOUNTAINS. 

THE leafj montli of June had come, and the 
prairie was clothed in a beautiful dark-green. 
The thickets of service-berries were loaded with 
fruit, and the wild roses shed a delicious perfume 
on the summer air. 

The Indian horses, luxuriating in a respite after 
the incessant toil of the winter hunt, were begin- 
ning to show, by their sleek and glossy appearance, 
that the herbage of the plains was most grateful to 
them. 

The Missouri commenced to feel the melting of 
the snows in its mountain tributaries, fioci its swollen 
and turbid waters rushed and foamed wildly around 
the base of the lofty promontory upon which the 
village was built. 

(320) 



JUNE RISE. 321 

Great quantities of drift-wood and floating trees 
were caught in the whirling eddy below the fort, 
and gave constant employment to the women and 
girls, who put out in their bull-boats, and thus se- 
cured plenty of fuel. In a short time the road 
leading down to the water was completely blocked 
up with piles of wood, and the ladies were in high 
glee at the labor saved in having their firewood 
brought to their very doors, as it were. 

The bank against which the water beat was rap- 
idly undermined, and falling in almost hourly with 
a loud crash. Cornfields that, when planted, were 
fully fifty feet from the river, were nov more than 
half washed away, and many a squaw looked with 
rueful countenance on the patch of ground, where 
she had bestowed so much toil and expected such 
good results, quickly disappearing before her gaze. 

With high water the arrival of the steamboat 
began to be agitated, and many inquiries were con- 
stantly made in how many nights the " fire-canoe " 
would be here. 

To the whites it was a season of ease and indo- 
lence. The houses had been washed inside and out 
with white clay, and the area being well cleaned 
and swept, the fort presented a very neat appearance. 
The men had now little to do, and mostly passed 
their time in hunting and fishing. 

V 



822 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

Our provisions were nearly exhausted ; the small 
stock on band being used with the utmost care to 
last as long as possible, until the annual boat would 
bring a fresh supply. Consequently the usual enter- 
tainment to the coffee-loving Indians was given up 
for want of means, causing a great falling off in the 
attendance at meal-time. 

The Four-Bears called occasionally, but was not 
at all. regular in his habits, now that there was 
nothing to be made by it. But my old comrade, 
the Bobtail- Wolf, visited me as ever, and always 
received his pan of bouillon, well peppered and 
salted, which he infinitely preferred. Doctor E-ten- 
ah-pen-ah also continued to make my house his 
headquarters, and as the days grew longer and 
lono-er, till it often seemed that darkness would 
never come, I derived great amusement in listening 
to the conversation of these worthies, and occasion- 
ally taking part. They were discussing the causes 
which led to the defeat of several of the war-parties 
that had gone out in the spring. 

The Wolf said to the Doctor, " My brother, your 
medicine is strong ; it is very stronp- ; all the He- 
rae-an-seh acknowledge it to be so. I beg you not 
to throw any of it on the Gros Ventres, and thereby 
cause defeat and losses of various kinds in war and 
hunting. I am a chief; when I talk to the Gros 



HERMIT OF. THE BLACK HILLS. 323 

Ventres, what I say goes straight to their ears ; my 
speech is always straight, not forked or travelling in 
two ways. Heed what I say, and I will exert my 
influence among the Gros Ventres in your behalf." 

The Doctor listened to this earnest harangue with 
becoming gravity, but when I caught his eye, there 
was a certain sly twinkle in its corner, that showed 
the old rascal was fully aware of his power, and 
intended to improve it. I sometimes amused myself 
by the exhibition of a few trifling sleight-of-hand 
tricks, which greatly excited the wonder of my 
spectators. That which had the strongest " medi- 
cinal " eflect consisted simply in putting three 
wafers on one side of a knife and causing them to 
appear and disappear at will. 

This performance never failed to create the utmost 
astonishment in my friends, and the Doctor was 
especially anxious to add it to his list of medicines. 

The Grindstone, an old Oncpapa Sioux, who with 
his family resided among the Gros Ventres, frequently 
talked about a white hermit in the pines among 
the Black Hills. He had a hut on the summit of 
some towering rocks, — no one had seen him, but 
they knew him to be a very tall man, because they 
(the Sioux) found a deer which he had killed and 
hung up in the top of a lofty pine-tree. He is the 
person, they think, who poisoned all the creqks and 



324 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

streams, causing such distress among the wild 
animals. There had been no thunder this spring, 
and it was currently believed that he had killed the 
thunder-bird. 

The previous summer, when on a visit to the 
Crows, the Wolf painted a young Crow warrior, and 
said he gave him half his medicine ; he was a chief, 
and he gave him the same chance to become one. 
The young man took the name of the Black-Cloud 
and painted half his shield black ; he then went to 
war and stole two horses, when he sent word down 
that they were for the Wolf, — his medicine was 
good, and he wanted his shield black all over. 

The Mandans began to agitate the question of 
returning to their old village, close by the Riccarees, 
to plant corn in the same fields they had tilled years 
ago, when their nation was strong and powerful, 
and the terror of its arms extended far and wide. 
Some thirty families prepared to move away ; the 
squaws loaded their effects in bull-boats, and started 
off by water, while the men drove the horses across 
the country. 

One afternoon the Roundixiaii came to propose 
going on a wolf-hunt, saying that he had found 
close by a cave in which a she-wolf was suckling 
her p^ps. As there was no inducement to do any- 
thing else, I assented, and shouldering my gun, we 



WOLF-HUNT. 325 

started off. Crossing a wide strip of prairie, we 
came to the hills, and after a much longer walk 
than I had any reason to expect, descended the 
steep sides of a ravine, at the base of which the 
Roundman pointed out a hole in the ground, which 
he said was the entrance to the wolf's den. We 
stopped, like prudent hunters, to thoroughly survey 
our ground before commencing operations, and a 
pipe was smoked to propitiate the Wolf Spirit in 
our behalf. The Roundman threw in stones, while 
I stood with my gun ready to shoot the wolf as soon 
as she made her appearance. The stones rolled 
one after another to the bottom of the den, with a 
dull, heavy sound, without provoking any response. 
'Next a long pole was thrust down, and vigorously 
poked about, but without producing any better 
result. At last, as there was no other alternative, 
we commenced cutting away the bushes at the 
entrance, to widen it, keeping a sharp lookout all 
the while, lest madam should unexpectedly make 
her appearance. After expending some labor, we 
made the hole wide enough to admit of the passage 
of the Roundman, who, stripping himself to the 
clout, crawled in head foremost, with his knife in 
one hand, and his tomahawk in the other. I listened 
anxiously for the startled growl, but none came ; 
and directly my friend backed out of the den, 

28 



326 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

reporting that the wolves had left their lair, and 
that but recently. We hunted all the rest of the 
afternoon, but were unsuccessful in finding them. 
A few days earlier, before the pups were able to 
run about, our enterprise would undoubtedly have 
resulted differently. 

The scouts on the hills signalled the approach of 
mounted Indians, men and women, from " above." 
Directly a motley crowd went forth to meet and 
escort the visitors (supposed to be Crows) to the 
village, while the squaws hurried to fill their kettles 
and made every preparation to feast their guests. 
Soon the wild procession came in sight on the crest 
of a hill, and descending into the plain, halted to 
smoke with the dashing blades of the Gros Ventres. 
The latter rode around their visitors in high feather, 
while the Crows, with their strongly-marked aqui- 
line features, and profusely garnished skin dresses, 
burnt and blackened by exposure to wind and 
weather, looked Indians all over. 

The men were tall and powerful, and all were finely 
mounted. Fully one-half of the party were women, 
who took charge of the extra horses, and in point of 
numbers the cavalcade presented a goodly appearance. 

The squaws were very large and coarse, with long, 
tangled, black hair, which, falling free and uncon- 
fiiied over their shoulders, did not add to their 
attractions in the least. 



LIGHT-FINGERED GENTRY. 327 

Ko sooner had they disappeared within the enclos- 
ure of the village, than I went straightway to my 
quarters and put all my possessions under lock and 
key, as the Crows' ideas of meum and tuum, unlike 
my Gros Ventres friends, were strangely confused, 
and I had conscientious scruples about placing 
temptation in their Avay. 

Of course, after going through a round of feasting, 
the next places to visit were the Trading-Posts, and 
until the gates were closed, they peered into every 
nook and corner with a pertinacity that was not to 
be bluffed off, and which onlj^a Crow can equal. The 
women were especially annoying, and in spite of 
our vigilance, quite a number of knives and other 
small articles were stolen, chiefly from the men's 
quarters, who anathematized " Injins " in general, 
but the Crows in particular. 

Like all prairie Indians who visit a trading-post 
only at long intervals, everything is strange and 
new, and in satisfying their very strong curiosity, 
they often become exceedingly troublesome. 

The band of horses belonging to the Post had 
been for some time under the care of an Indian who 
usually performed his duties as guard with great 
fidelity. In common ho"\v"ever with the rest of his 
comrades, he rode off to greet the Crows, and on 
returning where he had left the horses quietly feed- 



328 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

ing, but two only could be seen. This was unlucky, 
shotild we not succeed in finding them on the 
morrow, as there were a number of very fine animals 
belonffino- to individuals connected with the Post. 

Early the next morning, Malnouri and myself 
mounted the two remaining horses and started ofiT, 
determined to recover them, if they had only strayed, 
and not been stolen by a war-party of Sioux, who 
w^ere nearly always lurking in the neighborhood. 
We each took a dififerent trail, appointing a place 
to rendezvous, in event of either one being success- 
ful. l!Toon came, and saw us refreshing ourselves 
at a cool spring, which gurgled through the hills. 
Both had ridden over a wide expanse of prairie, 
without discovering the slightest trace of our missing 
caballada, nor had anything been seen by the scouts 
of the village. After a short halt we renewed our 
search, taking as before a difierent circuit. I struck 
into an old buffalo-path, which led me through the 
ravines, and over the hills for miles, until it was 
lost on a high, sloping prairie, whose vast expanse 
swept far away to the northward. 

Here I halted, and dismounting, took a careful 
survey of the prairie with my glass, and was just 
able to distinguish a group of some kind a long 
distance off. It might be either Indians, buffalo, 
or the missing band. I proceeded cautiously, until 



THE RUNAWAYS RECOVERED. 329 

I was able to distinguish clearly that they were 
horses. It was our band, crowded close together, 
with dishevelled manes and raised tails, surrounded 
by a large gang of gray wolves who were induced 
to fall back a little on my approach by the discharge 
of a pistol. Right glad was I to see old Mac again, 
and starting the band off at a gallop, I had the 
satisfaction of reaching the fort just after Malnouri 
had arrived with rueful countenance, which was 
quickly cheered by the trampling hoofs, as the 
horses, his two favorite "runners" among them, 
dashed into the corral, the gate of which securely 
fastened, precluded all possibility of a further stam- 
pede that night. 

After spending a couple of weeks, and thoroughly 
wearing out their welcome, so far as the whites 
were concerned, the Crow horde took their depart- 
ure for the camp of their tribe on the Yellowstone, 
in great tribulation lest they should meet with a 
party of either of their deadly foes, the Sioux or 
Blackfeet, which we most devoutly wished they 
might. They feared also lest their camp, finding 
the Yellowstone country too hot for them, would 
move oft' to a more secure hunting-ground in the 
Wind-River Mountains, and thus their small body 
would be compelled to traverse a long and very 
dangerous road. 

28* 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

AN INDIAN MUSICIAN — TRIP TO THE REES — CHASED BY A 
WAR-PARTY — CLOSE QUARTERS — A RIDE FOR LIFE — IN- 
DIAN STRATEGY. 

THE old adage, '^ Music hath charms to soothe the 
savage breast," was not exemplified in the case 
of the " Crane," a G-ros Ventre Indian of exceedingly 
tall stature — hence his name. A violin belonging 
to me attracted his fancy, and nothing would do 
until he obtained possession, giving far more than 
its value, in fine, painted robes, and stalked off* with 
his prize, in triumph, to his lodge. I felicitated 
myself on the capital trade I had made, and imag- 
ined the Crane entertaining his guests with dulcet 
strains from his fiddle. Several days elapsed, and 
I saw one morning the tall form of the Crane ap- 
proaching, with lowering brow and measured tread. 
"Borraquoi," (my friend,) said he, "my squaw's 
heart is bad towards me. She calls me a fool, and 
says the robes she dressed were to be traded for 
blankets, and she can't sleep because of the noise I 

(330) 



A DISTKACTED WIFE. 331 

make; — take your fiddle, and give me back my 
robes." 

I could not help sympathizing with his squaw in 
the annoyance his attempts to extract music at all 
hours of the day and niglit must have caused, but 
declined trading back on any terms. The Crane, 
after sitting a while, got up without another word 
and retired to the village. But the end was not 
yet. In a short time I saw his squaw coming to- 
ward the fort, carrying the luckless violin on her 
back, after the usual fashion of Indian women. I 
quickly fastened the door of my room, and watched 
her through the window. She laid the cause of her 
unhappiness at my door, and retired around the 
corner, where I allowed her to wait, until despairing 
of my appearance, she picked up her treasure, with 
every manifestation of anger, and departed. 

I went back to my room, and influenced by one 
of those impulses which cannot always be controlled, 
and are often unaccountable, took down my revolver 
and double-barrelled gun, and proceeded to place 
fresh caps upon them. 

While thus engaged, the door was opened, and in 
marched the Crane, evidently carrying the violin 
under his robe. He halted upon seeing the nature 
of my occupation, and ejaculated ^'llow!" — I replied, 
inviting him to sit down, which he did, with a black 



832 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

cloud upon his brow. Mj pistol was by this time 
capped, and carelessly throwing my gun into the 
hollow of my arm, I dropped the muzzle, as if 
merely by accident, full upon the Crane, who sat at 
the opposite side of the room. " Click, click," 
went the lock of one barrel ; " click, click," the 
lock of the other. The Crane's countenance changed 
expression, and he slightly moved his seat. I picked 
up a piece of buckskin to polish the mountings, 
and in doing so, as if by chance, brought the muz- 
zle again to bear upon the Crane. This had now 
continued several minutes, and I began to be con- 
cerned as to how it would end, when his counte- 
nance brightened, as if his mind was made up and 
greatly relieved thereat. 

With the simple remark that "women were 
fools," with which laudation of the sex I thought 
proper to coincide, he gathered up his robe, and 
left in very good humor; and from that to the 
day of his death, some two years after, neither he 
nor his squaw ever alluded to the subject again. 
How they compromised matters I know not, — 
whether the Crane pursued his musical studies in 
peace, or whether he abandoned them altogether 
out of regard for the comfort and domestic tran- 
quillity of his famil}'. I was very glad it ended as 
it did, for neither of us wished to push matters to 
extremities. 



A TRIP TO THE REES. 333 

It was now about the time when the annual 
steamboat might be daily looked for ; and expect- 
ing it almost hourly, as it were, the days seemed 
interminable, and we were fairly at our wit's end 
to devise means to pass away the time. N'ot a 
white cloud appeared in the direction from which 
the chimneys of the approaching steamer would 
first show themselves that was not mistaken for the 
steam from the escape-pipes, giving rise to the very 
natural excitement consequent upon the announce- 
ment that the " Mahti-shee-sheesh" was coming. 
To sleep all the time was impossible, and from the 
slender amount of provisions on hand, our mess- 
table was by no means attractive, corn-coffee being, 
in the estimation of a mountaineer, a forlorn sub- 
stitute for the genuine beverage. 

This being the state of affairs, I gladly availed 
myself of the opportunity presented to join a party 
of Gros Ventres going down to the Eees. William 
Fisher, one of our men, increased our strength to 
seventeen, all mounted on picked horses. Our trip 
was accomplished without any incident, and after 
spending a couple of days very pleasantly at the 
Ree village, we started, on our return. At the 
upper crossing of Little Knife River, the Indians 
stopped to smoke, and let their horses graze. 

But the halt was destined to be of short duration ; 



334 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

a large band of Sioux suddenly appeared on the 
hills not more than two miles off, and dashed to- 
wards us, evidently with the intention of " cutting" 
our trail. The instant they were discovered we 
rushed for our horses, and mounting, made for the 
broken land on the Missouri. A warrior named 
the Wood was our leader, and we strung out in 
Indian file, each one's place being regulated simply 
by the speed of his horse, who was kept at his 
fastest pace, with but the one thought, to get away 
from the pursuers. For the first few miles the race 
was closely contested, neither party getting the 
advantage; but when our foaming horses gained 
the broken land, our leader's superior skill was 
evident. 

^Never before had I been so forcibly impressed 
with the instinctive, unerring sagacity of the In- 
dian. Knowing every foot of the country, without 
slackening speed, he carefully avoided the ridges, 
following up the ravines, completely concealing us 
from our pursuers. The hard, sun-baked soil of 
the prairie gave not the faintest hoof-print; and we 
now had greatly the advantage, since the chances 
of the Sioux finding us in those innumerable 
ravines were materially lessened. At one time we 
were almost within gunshot, and halting suddenly, 
scarcely breathed until they had ridden past. 



A SKILFUL LEADER. 335 

The race had continued some ten miles, and we 
were near the Red Springs, when the "Wood halted 
us to "discover." Crawling cautiously to the top 
of the nearest knoll, we could see the Sioux riding 
about in a confused group, as if they had lost us, 
and were trying to come upon the trail again. Our 
spirits rose greatly, and the Wood announced his 
intention of going to some deserted winter-lodges 
not far off, where we could intrench ourselves, 
adding, that if we were discovered before we 
reached them, our only resource was to make for 
the Missouri, and trust to its waters. 

Swiftly and cautiously we hurried on, until the 
friendly shelter of the forest near the Eed Springs 
was gained. A couple of large, round lodges, in a 
tolerable state of preservation, were selected, close 
to the river. Into one of these we secured our 
horses, and, after fortifying the other with a breast- 
work of logs, kept a sleepless watch all night, the 
Indians listening anxiously for the slightest sounds. 

Morning broke at last, but no traces of our pur- 
suers were visible. All that day we laid close in 
our retreat, and at nightfall resumed our saddles. 
The Wood, leaving the usual trail across the prairie, 
followed the river, keeping under cover of the 
broken land as much as possible, and morning 
found us on the sand-bar waiting for the bull-boats 



336 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

to take US over. Even now we dreaded lest the 
Sioux, having anticipated our destination, should 
make a sudden onslaught, but our fears were for- 
tunately without foundation. 

JSTeither our horses nor ourselves had eaten any- 
thing since leaving the Ree village, nearly three 
days before. The poor animals had suffered se- 
verely, and it was pleasant to see them feeding on 
the rich grass, and indemnifying themselves for 
past hardships. 



I 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

FALSE ALARMS — ''THE STEAMBOAT" — ANNUAL CARNIVAL 
— QUIET ONCE MORE FATHER DE SMET. 

A FEW nights after this adventure we were 
roused by a violent pounding at the gate, and 
voices shouting for the " whites to get up, the steam- 
boat was coming ! " 

Without loss of time, every one was out, and 
eager inquiries passed around. It seems that an 
Indian had arrived on the other side, calling for a 
bull-boat, whereupon several of our friends hurried 
at once to the fort, telling us that he had news of 
the steamboat. 

The squaws were afraid to cross over in their bull- 
boats, fearing it might be a trick of the Sioux to 
lure them into an ambuscade ; but some of our men, 
in their eagerness, went over in the skiff; and when 
they returned, quite a large crowd gathered around 
the new-comer to hear what he had to say. He had 
heard nothing, seen nothing — it was merely a ruse 
to get him crossed, as none of the squaws would 

venture. A very quiet and subdued party of white 
29 w (3373 



338 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

men returned to their Fort, and slept soundly the 
remainder of the night. 

But our disappointment was not doomed to be of 
long duration, for the very next afternoon an unusual 
outcry was heard in the camp, and every one rushed 
out, expecting to see nothing less than an immense 
war-party of Yanctohwahs, debouching from the 
hills on horseback, to give the Gros Ventres battle. 
But soon the word was ''Fire-canoe," and sure 
enough, against the bluffs that lined the southern 
shore of the river, was seen what at first appeared 
to be a faint white cloud floating on the summer 
air, but by the regular puffs we knew must be the 
escape from a steamboat. 

All was now bustle and commotion; the Stars 
and Stripes were run up on the flag-staff, and each 
man made the most careful toilet his limited ward- 
robe would admit of. The Indians, too, shared the 
general excitement, and the bannerets made their 
appearance, painted and decked out in all the colors 
of the rainbow. 

The tops of the tall black chimneys now became 
visible above the elm-point, and soon after, the 
boat itself came into full view, slowly but steadily 
breasting the strong current. Which boat was it, 
ours, or the American Fur Company's, was anxiously 
questioned. She turned the bend, not more than a 



GREAT EXCITEMENT. 339 

mile off, and was now coming directly towards us. 
Nearer and nearer she steamed ; the paddle-wheels 
could be distinctly heard; then a white wreath of 
smoke enveloped her bows, and directly the report 
of a cannon was borne on the air. The salute was 
promptly returned, and continued until she lay at 
the landing within a stone's throw of the Post. All 
doubt was at an end ; the boat was our own, direct 
from St. Louis, with a full equipment for the ensu- 
ing year. 

It seemed strange to see civilization, as typified 
by the steamboat, in the heart of the wilderness. 
The Indians, grouped on the brow of the bluff, 
were interested spectators of the scene. There 
were yet many among them who remembered the 
first steamboat that ever ploughed the waters of the 
Upper Missouri, and the dreadful scourge that soon 
after broke out in their midst, and has proved so 
signally fatal to the race. 

Mountaineers greeted acquaintances, and hurried 
away with mysterious black bottles secreted about 
their persons ; the deck-hands unloaded the freight, 
and all was bustle and excitement. 

The teams were soon busily engaged in hauling 
up the supplies to the Fort, and after staying only 
long enough to put off the freight intended for us, 
the steamer continued her voyage. 



340 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

It was midnight before the last wagon-load was 
stored away, and then, securely locking the gates, 
we left the new hands to be initiated into the 
mysteries of mountain life by the old ones. 

I opened, with hesitating eagerness, the large 
package of letters and papers, to learn of all that 
had happened during the past year in the civilized 
world, and the tidings from the loved ones in their 
far-off home. 

The following^day was one of continued bustle. 
Indians thronged the store, bringing furs, which 
they had reserved to trade until the boats should 
arrive with fresh goods. Packages were hastily 
opened, and anything wanted was sure to be found 
at the bottom. For two days we had the monopoly 
of the trade, but on the third, the boat of the 
American Fur Company arrived, having the Indian 
agent and annuities on board. 

The Agent held the usual Council ; gave the usual 
stereotyped advice, " to love their Great Father, 
and their enemies," to which they responded with 
the usual grunt; and the Council broke up, without 
the Indians having a very exalted opinion of the 
Agent, or his ability. The annuities were landed ; 
and, compared with the preceding year, the pile 
was beautifully less, so insignificant, in fact, that 
the Indians considered it rather an insult than 
otherwise. 



THE ANNUAL CARNIVAL. 341 

The Government appropriations are supposed to 
be liberal ; but it so happens that by the time they 
reach their destination, they have, and not myste- 
riously either, dwindled down into a paltry present. 

During the time that the boats were up the river, 
the new voyageurs, mangeurs du lard, (pork-eaters,) as 
they were termed the first year of their novitiate, 
were becoming,^ully initiated into the charms of 
mountain life, and the old hands, whose time had 
expired, and who were going down to the settle- 
ments, were busy taking farewell of their Indian 
sweethearts, and loading their trunks with mocca- 
sins, and trash generally. Whiskey, smuggled by 
the deck hands, was not wanting, and the carousal 
was at its height. 

In less than ten days after leaving us, our steam- 
boat returned from Fort Stuart, eighty miles above 
the mouth of the Yellowstone ; and after shipping 
the packs of robes and peltries, took her departure 
for St. Louis. 

In the changes that were made, I was placed in 
charge of the Post until the arrival of one of the 
partners of the Company from the lower country, 
w^hich would not be until late in the fall. 

In a few days the American Fur Company's boat 
also returned, and it was with a feeling of relief 
that we saw her smoke-stacks disappearing behind 

29* 



342 AM ONGTHE INDIANS. 

the forest, as she pursued her way down the river. 
The annual carnival was at an end, — the reign of 
Minne-bae-tah (fire-water) was over for another 
year, — and in our voluntary seclusion we would be 
undisturbed by the throbs and throes of the civilized 
world. 

The Gros Ventres returned in due time from 
their visit to the Crows, having obtained from them 
a supply of horses, of which the Crows possess 
immense numbers. Our friends the Sioux paid us 
occasional visits, doing no damage beyond stealing a 
few horses and keeping us constantly on the qui vive. 

In the fall, the Reverend Father De Smet, the 
celebrated Apostle of the Indians, arrived from the 
Blackfeet, in a small boat, with four men. The 
Reverend Father was one of our passengers on the 
Twilight, as far as Fort Leavenworth, where he left 
to join the Utah Expedition. He had crossed the 
Rocky Mountains, and visited the missions on the 
Columbia River among the Flatheads, Kez Perces, 
and other tribes; and having completed his tour, 
was now on his way to St. Louis. Father De Smet 
is universally revered by all the Indian nations, and 
known far and wide. Among the rude mountain- 
eers he commands the utmost respect by his gentle, 
winning manners, and the practical, common-sense 



FATHER DE SMET. 343 

view he takes of the errors in their mode of life. 
Many strange and true stories are told of his won- 
derful adventures among hostile tribes, and the 
almost supernatural awe in which they hold him. 
The whole of a long life has been devoted to the 
welfare of the Indians, and they have no truer or 
abler advocate. 

Father De Smet remained with us over night, and 
baptized five or six half-breeds, children of some of 
the retainers of the Post, as well as a number of 
Indian children in the Four-Bears' lodge, to all of 
whom he gave a medal. 

The morning sun saw the Father on his voyage, 
with his stores replenished to the best of our abil- 
ity, and the heartfelt good wishes of all. 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

WINTER-QUARTERS — NO TRADERS IN CAMP — A FRIEND IN 

NEED SERIOUS DIFFICULTY WITH THE RICCAREES 

ALMOST A MASSACRE — HOMOEOPATHY VS. STRYCHNINE — 
BAD INFLUENCE OF AN UNPRINCIPLED WHITE MAN. 

THE beautiful Indian summer had come again, 
with its delightful weather and hazy skies. 
Vast flocks of wild fowl were flying South, and 
^Nature's signs admonished the Indians that it would 
soon be time to seek their winter-quarters. Pre- 
parations were rife throughout the camp, skin 
lodges were put in order, and a day appointed to 
move. 

The Poor-Wolf and Crow's-Breast, of the soldier 
band, came to me and said that it had been decided 
not to allow traders in camp, unless they increased 
the price of a bufialo-robe to ten cups of sugar, 
other goods in proportion, asking a considerable 
advance over present rates, which were already 
uncommonly high. 

Deeming it politic to keep them in good humor, 
pending the arrival of the new Bourgeois, Mr. 

(344) 



WINTER-QUARTERS. 345 

"Wickhani, I held a council, and gave a feast to the 
Gros Ventres, to ascertain exactly their views about 
the coming trade. The Four-Bears, Crow's-Breast, 
and Snakeskin were the principal speakers. They 
unanimously declared that if one Company went 
the other should go too ; but in no case should 
either go, unless they agreed to give the increased 
price demanded. In expectation of Mr. Wickham's 
speedy arrival, I deferred an answer for the present, 
and the council broke up in the best of humor, but 
with the understanding that, as matters stood, there 
would be no traders allowed in camp that winter. 

So the Gros Ventres went away to their winter- 
quarters ; but hardly were the last of them out of 
sight, ere a party of Rees rode up, and reported 
their camp also on the way to winter-quarters, 
which were to^be established in a fine point of 
timber about ten miles below us. 

The agreeable prospect therefore presented itself 
of daily arrivals from the camp of these undesirable 
neighbors, coming ostensibly to trade, but in reality 
to beg and steal. Like the Gros Ventres, they too 
determined to exact the highest rates for their 
robes, and were likely to leave no means untried to 
compass their ends. 

Such was the position of afiairs when Mr. Wick- 
ham arrived, with a couple of teams from Fort 



846 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

Pierre. As soon as the Eees learned that he had 
come, a messenger was sent to tell him that a large 
party would be up in two days to hold a grand 
"talk," and establish the prices for the ensuing 
season. From the threatening tone of the message, 
and excited feelings of the Indians, there was every 
indication of trouble, perhaps bloodshed, if their 
** requests" were not complied with. 

After deliberating upon the subject, Wickham 
vowed he " would not be browbeat by a party of 
beggarly Indians," and even contemplated reducing 
the present rates. 

Every preparation was made for the council. 
Huge kettles of coffee, barrels of hard bread, with 
blankets, scarlet cloth, calico, knives, ammunition, 
and tobacco, — a goodly pile. 

At last an Indian is seen riding up at a gallop. 
He proves to be the White-Face-Bear, one of the 
greatest rascals among the Riccarees. The White- 
Face-Bear grasps each one of us cordially by the 
hand, and says his people are in sight, and will be 
here shortly ; that they have very few women with 
them, and are for peace ; or war if their " reasonable 
demands " are not complied with. He further de- 
clares that he loves the whites, and has loaded his 
fusee with nine balls, intending to fight for us if it 
comes to the worst. 



TROUBLE BREWING. 347 

Matters began to assume a most threatening 
aspect. The Kees were now in sight, each band by 
itself, painted and armed, to signify that the choice, 
peace or war, lay with us. JS'earer and nearer they 
came, halting frequently, to smoke and deliberate 
among themselves. It was almost determined at 
one time to close the gates, and defy them to their 
utmost; but on reflection this course was aban- 
doned, as it was our policy to conciliate the savages 
instead of exasperating them. 

I stepped into my room a moment, and turning 
to go out met the White-Face-Bear, who said he 
was going to remain there, and keep out all in- 
truders. There were but few small articles lying 
around, and I had no time to object, so leaving him 
there, hurried to the gate. The Eees were now 
within a few hundred yards, advancing in close 
order. Wickham, anxious and uncertain as to the 
result of the council, with his interpreter, seated 
himself in front of the Indian room. To begin by 
showing distrust would provoke and hasten hos- 
tilities ; to meet them as friends, might mollify and 
quiet them. The latter course was finally resolved 
upon. 

The Indians had halted about fifty yards from 
the gates, upon which I advanced to meet them 
with the pipe, always an emblem of peace. I had 
got to within twenty paces of them, when they 



348 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

came on with fierce and startling whoops and yells, 
brandishing their weapons with menacing gestures. 
Guns w^ere discharged in every direction; bullets 
flew around me, and buried themselves in the 
ground close to my feet, and arrows whizzed by in 
uncomfortable proximity to my head. 

A warrior raised his tomahawk to strike me, but 
his arm was arrested by the Son-of-the-starry-robe, 
who, halting in front of me, looked me full in the 
eye. I met him with a gaze as steady, and the 
White-Parflesh coming up, placed himself by my 
side, and simply remarked, "Your heart is strong." 
The Indians divided on either side, and passed 
through the gates into the Fort. My protectors 
brought up the rear, and we entered the yard 
together. 

Human forme, closely muffled in robes and blan- 
kets, were seated forming a hollow square. Sullen 
looks and fierce scowls greeted the men who brought 
in the heavy kettles of steaming coflee, and placed 
them before the Bourgeois. 

The feast and liberal presents accompanying it, 
elicited not the slightest token of interest ; much 
less, the usual grunt of approbation. 

A pause followed — the silence was profound, 
and full of boding. Never did Nature' look more 
radiantly lovely than on this bright day in the 
golden autumn. 



THE COUNCIL. 349 

The nerves of all were strung to their highest 
tension, when the painful silence was broken by the 
White-Parflesh rising to address the assemblage. 
He said they had all come to greet the Yellow- 
Beard, (Wickham,) and get him "to make a road for 
them," i. e., give them advice, which they promised 
to follow. The White-Parflesh had known the 
traders for many snows, and felt drawn towards 
them. He loved them, and would like to wTap 
them up in his robe. Would not the Yellow-Beard 
take pity upon his sincere friends the Rees, and 
trade easier with them? — give them life, — pay a little 
more for their robes, which their women dressed 
with so much toil — ten cups of sugar, just for one 
day only ? 

Wickham replied that the traders were giving all 
they could, and a further advance in price was im- 
possible ; and in Indian fashion, begged in his turn 
that the Rees would take pity upon him, and let 
him travel in the road that his predecessors had 
made. The Star-Robe followed, and continued at 
length in a similar strain. 

Other speeches were made to the same effect, 
and a number of handsome robes were thrown or 
given, as evidences of good feeling on the part of 
the Indians. The Yellow-Beard remained inflexible, 

30 



350 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

and the Eees changed their tone to one of anger 
and threatening. 

Several hours had thus been consumed, during 
which we remained sitting in the open air. Wick- 
ham feeling chilly, stepped into the Indian room 
close at hand, to warm himself for a few minutes, 
while the Bear's-Ear, an Indian totally destitute of 
any good qualities, was speaking. 

No sooner had he gone in, than the Star-Eobe 
followed, and told him to return and listen to the 
speeches. He at once resumed his place, when the 
Pointed-Horns commenced a harangue in a most 
excited manner, gesticulating energetically all the 
while. At length he paused for a reply, amid a 
general shout of approbation from his people, when 
the interpreter, a most contemptible creature named 
Elien, whose Indian sobriquet of the Jaw fully 
illustrated his character, took upon himself to tell 
them (as we subsequently learned) that it was no 
use talking any longer. That the Yellow-Beard's 
heart was with the Sioux, with whom he had 
always lived ; that he did not like the Eees, and 
that was why he would not " look at them." 

This foolish remark was at once taken up. The 
Eees, always ripe for mischief when the whites were 
concerned, became inflamed in an instant; and 
before any one had the slightest suspicion, the 



THE EXCITEMENT QUELLED. 351 

Bear's-Ear sprang to his feet, and discharged his 
fusee into the barrel of bread, blowing it to pieces. 
In a moment a crowd rushed up, guns were dis- 
charged, the kettles of coffee overturned and 
pounded out of all shape. The blankets and cloth 
were torn into shreds, and a couple of our dogs, 
who unfortunately happened to come in the way, 
were killed. 

Their blood was fully aroused, and moments 
seemed ages of anxious suspense, when several of 
the chiefs interfered, and aided by the soldiers, with 
much trouble drove the Indians out. They retired 
doggedly, and halted once, as if they intended to 
return and finish their work. N"o sooner was the 
last one out than the gates were securely shut and 
barred, and we felt relieved from the danger that 
had threatened. 

"Wickham was an entire stranger to these Indians. 
He had been a number of years among the Sioux at 
Fort Pierre, however, and was well acquainted with 
Indian character, but unfortunately his interpreter 
on this occasion was culpably inefficient, or else the 
difficulty might have been altogether avoided. It 
was only owing to the fact of dissensions springing 
up among themselves, at the very time they should 
have been united, that prevented the massacre at 
Fort Atkinson. 

The Rees did not visit the American Fur Com- 



352 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

paiiy's Post, and Wickham always insisted — and 
subsequent events proved him correct — that they 
were pushed to extreme measures hy a renegade white 
man living among them. 

The following day some half dozen Rees made 
their appearance, riding at full speed toward the 
Fort. As they drew near we recognized the White- 
Parflesh and Iron-Bear, and speculation was rife as 
to the reason of their coming so soon after the dif- 
ficulty of the day before. Their lowering brows 
and sullen demeanor soon showed that "their 
hearts still felt bad towards us," and the question at 
once asked by them did not help to clear up matters 
in the least. 

The delegation had come up expressly to know 
why I had given the White-Face-Bear a bottle of 
wolf medicine, (strychnine,) to make all the Indians 
sick ? 

After some trouble I learned that the Indian in 
question had returned to the Ree Camp, and ex- 
hibited a bottle, which he said contained wolf medi- 
cine, and proclaimed his intention of poisoning all 
who made themselves obnoxious to him. 

At length it occurred to me that my Homoeopathic 
medicine-chest was standing on the table in my 
room when the White-Face Bear came in the day 
before, to extend his "protection " in anticipation of 
the difficulty which was soon after raised, and I 



A SERIOUSAFFAIR. 353 

began to suspect the true state of affairs. My sus- 
picions were confirmed, when upon examining my 
medicine-chest, I found one of the vials missing. 

Everything was then easily explained. I took a 
portion of the contents of several vials, to prove 
their utter harmlessness, and the delegation, after 
waiting a sufficient time to see what effect it would 
have upon me, returned to camp, relieved of great 
anxiety, and myself of what might have been a 
very serious affair attributed to my agency, and how 
it might have terminated, is difficult to say. 

The Indians were aware of the appearance and 
deadly properties of strychnine, from its being of 
late years so extensively used by the trapperl to 
take wolves, almost superseding the old-fashioned 
trap. It has nevertheless to be used stealthily, and 
with exceeding great care, as the Indians, with the 
superstitious notions to which they are prone, and 
the ravages of the small-pox and cholera brought 
among them by the white men, fresh in their minds, 
entertain great fears of a general taint and sickness 
arising from the poisoned carcasses. 

Thus happily ended our misunderstanding with 
the Rees, which at one time bid fair to lead to a 
most serious, if not disastrous termination, and 
which beyond doubt was instigated by an unprin- ' 
cipled white man to gratify a personal feeling. 
30^ X 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

OFF FOR THE MOUNTAINS — THE BORDER — CONDITION OF 
AFFAIRS — INDIAN TROUBLES — MURDER OF FRIENDLY 
INDIANS — DESERTED VILLAGE — OLD MEMORIES — 
AMONG THE GROS VENTRES — OLD FRIENDS — HORSES 
STOLEN BY THE SIOUX. 

IN the spring of 1863 I was on jboard of the 
steamer Robert Campbell, again bound for the 
head-waters of the Missouri. Her consort, the 
Shreveport, a much smaller boat, had preceded us 
several weeks, intending to return and lighten us 
before we reached the upper river. The boat was 
under the command of Captain Joseph Labarge, 
who had for a long period of years been in the 
employ of the American Fur Company in their 
annual expeditions up the river. Jerry Millington, 
the clerk, and McKinney, the pilot of the old Twi- 
light, were also on board in a similar capacity. 
The passengers consisted of two Indian agents, the 
veteran trader. Col. Alexander Culbertson and his 
Blackfoot wife, a few mountaineers, and a number 
of adventurers, the latter bound for the newly- 
discovered gold fields of Montana. The river was 

(354) 



FORT PIERRE. 355 

unusually low, but beyond annoying detentions on 
the numerous sand-bars, which sadly impeded our 
progress, we arrived at Sioux City without any note- 
worthy incident. Here was encamped an army, 
preparing to take the field, and inflict upon the 
savage foe signal punishment. 

The army took the field — the bugles were blown, 
the antelope, badly frightened, sped over the hills, 

while from distant blufiTs *'the d d redskins" 

defiantly waved their breech-clouts. Some few 
squaws were captured, and the army went into 
winter-quarters, the Indians having gone out of 
sight, and the safety of the frontiers thus being 
assured. 

At Fort Pierre were stationed several companies 
of cavalry, and Mr. Primeau reported the Indians 
very bad above there. This information, coming as 
it did from a trader of his reliability and experi- 
ence, was not to be lightly treated. A few Sioux 
were encamped close by, to receive their annuities, 
and have a talk inflicted upon them by their 
"Father," who happened this year to be a Major 
Latta. The speeches were ably interpreted by 
Francois La Fromboise, but the Indians certainly 
had all the powers of argument and oratory on their 
side. They begged for arms and ammunition on 
the plea of procuring subsistence for their families. 



356 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

and complained bitterly of the murder of eight 
friendly Indians at Fort Randall by United States 
Volunteers a short time previously. 

It was a great relief to all when the " talk " was 
over, and we once more steamed up the mighty 
river. The cannon on board was carefully loaded ; 
extra ammunition provided, and every man prepared 
himself to act on the defensive. At night the boat 
would be always anchored in the middle of the 
stream, and great caution was exercised while wood- 
ing, to avoid a surprise. 

At Grand River, the remains of a bull-boat and 
numerous fresh tracks showed that a large party of 
Indians had but recently crossed. G-ame was unusu- 
ally abundant, bands of buffalo being in sight nearly 
all the time. 

At Heart River Island, in backing down to 
find a channel, the rudder broke, requiring a day's 
work to repair it. 

While laying up for this purpose, the Shreveport 
hove in sight, having ascended as high as Cow 
Island, below Fort Benton, where she discharged 
her freight, and hurried down to meet us. Part of 
our cargo was at once transferred to her, and the 
repairs being completed by sundown, both boats 
steamed on a few miles before anchoring. 

By evening of the following day we landed at 



SAD MEMORIES. 357 

the deserted village of the Mandans and Riccarees. 
While the deck-hands were tearing down some of 
the lodges that were still standing for firewood, I 
strolled around among the familiar places. 

What a change since I first ascended the river in 
1858 ! Not a vestige was left of either Trading- 
Post, save a pile of stones which marked the spot 
where the cheerful fires once blazed in the chim- 
neys. The ice-house, nearly filled up with rubbish, 
and the lonely graves of those white men who had 
died while in the Company's employ, were almost 
concealed by a rank wilderness of weeds. 

Instead of the closely-cropped, bare appearance 
it presented when the Indian horses pastured there, 
the surrounding prairie was covered with a luxuri- 
ant growth of grass. One or two scafiFolds of the 
dead were still standing, but the medicine-poles no 
longer reared their outlines against the sky, and 
the circles of human skulls were scattered and fast 
disappearing. 

The devastating marks of the ruthless Sioux 
were everywhere visible. An open grave attracted 
my attention ; it contained the form of an Indian 
in a perfect state of preservation, and the expression 
of his vermilion-painted face was strikingly natural. 
Years ago the Mandans dwelt here, a happy and 
thriving people, until the terrible small-pox almost 



358 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

obliterated them as a tribe, and the Riccarees 
moving up from their village on Grand Eiver, took 
possession. 

The cholera and small-pox again spread desola- 
tion among them, but they remained until the 
traders abandoned their Posts, when the Sioux, 
taking advantage of their absence at winter-quar- 
ters, burned the Forts (now become the property of 
the Indians) and many of their lodges. The old 
associations being thus in a measure broken up, 
they moved to the Gros Ventre village, and built 
for themselves new homes. 

It was with a feeling of sadness that I wandered 
amid the well-known scenes, and I felt relieved 
when the tolling of the bell summoned all on board. 

By afternoon of the following day, the familiar 
bluffs and prairies of the Gros Ventres came into 
view. 

The sand-bar in the river was larger, and caused 
some delay before a landing could be effected in 
the eddy below the village. Many changes had 
taken place during my absence of a few months. 

The united tribes of Rees, Gros Ventres, and 
Man dans, made a very large village, and the new 
lodges greatly altered the appearance of the place. 
Old Fort Berthold had been burned down by the 
Sioux, and Fort Atkinson (now called Berthold) 



HOSPITABLY TREATED. 359 

was occupied by the American Fur Company. It 
narrowly escaped being captured by an overwhelm- 
ing force of Sioux while the Gros Ventres were yet 
at winter-quarters ; and if a party of the latter had 
not chanced to be present when the attack was 
made, the handful of traders would have been 
overpowered. The bullet-marks in the stockade 
and bastions showed how fierce the fight had been. 
My Indian friends welcomed me back, and I was 
called to feasts in a number of lodges, and fifteen 
handsomely painted robes given me. When they 
found I was going on to Fort Union, they expressed 
great regret, and made me promise to return to them 
in the following spring, which I fully expected to do. 
Here again we heard further confirmation of the 
gathering of hostile Sioux on the river, and if at- 
tacked at all, it would be most probably this side of 
the Yellowstone. 

The next day we continued on, the Shreveport in 
advance, to find the channel, and by noon arrived 
at the mouth of Rising Water, not far below the 
point on which the old winter-quarters were located. 
The boat landed soon after by a sand-bar which 
was covered with drift-wood, to take in a supply. 

While thus engaged, several Indians appeared 
on the opposite bank, and called out in the Gros 
Ventre tongue for a boat, and they would send 



360 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

back some fresh buffalo-meat. They proved to 
be old acquaintances, one of them being my 
friend "Bonaparte," and were on this hunting trip 
with no companions but two squaws. Bonaparte 
was a daring man, and it was nothing uncommon 
for him to start off on j ust such perilous expeditions 
as this. 

They had been out for nearly two weeks, had 
"made plenty of meat," and were just preparing to 
cross the river, and return to their village, when 
the steamboats hove in sight. After trading sugar 
and coffee for a supply of meat, they returned to 
shore; the young Gros Ventre drove the horses up 
to water, and then turned them loose upon the 
prairie to feed, while the squaws were preparing to 
cross over their "plunder" in a bull-boat they had 
just completed. 

The signal-taps on the CamplelVs bell had been 
given, when suddenly the Indian women uttered a 
piercing scream. From the ravines, about a quar- 
ter of a mile distant, dashed forth at full speed a 
Sioux Indian, mounted on a white steed, waving a 
scarlet blanket, and making directly for the Gros 
Ventres' horses, followed at a little distance by 
some fifteen or twenty others, who with whoop 
and yell, drove off the frightened animals, and dis- 
appeared with almost the quickness of thought. 



AN UNEXPECTED ATTACK. 361 

A large body now showed themselves as re- 
serves, but they were not needed, for the terrified 
squaws were paddling their canoe for dear life, and 
had almost gained the middle of the river. Bona- 
parte and his comrade, mcunting their horses, 
which they fortunately held by the lariats, dashed 
through the willows, and made for a point where 
we could intercept them. 

The Campbell moved swiftly around the bend, 
when the Gros Ventres appeared in sight, and made 
for the sand-bar, looking over their shoulders as if 
expecting immediate pursuit. The stage-plank was 
run out, and a dozen willing hands helped to get 
the panting horses on board. 

The^oor Indians had, by this one fell swoop, lost 
nearly all they possessed; horses, blankets, saddles, 
meat, all gone ; and their lives would also have 
been forfeited, had it not been for the timely assist- 
ance of the steamer. Ammunition, clothing, and 
provisions were liberally contributed by the passen- 
gers, and they were safely landed on the opposite 
shore, to make their way to their village, which 
they doubtless effected in safety. 

This incident carried conviction to everybody; 

even to those who, because they did not see Indians 

constantly, were disposed to regard precautionary 

measures as useless. So it always is; the more 

31 



362 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

ignorant persons are of Indian habits and warfare, 
the more they afiect to despise them. The old 
traders and trappers, who have often been harassed 
and hunted, and their slumbers rudely broken by 
the terrible war-whoop in its startling reality, esti- 
mate rightly their savage foe, and their excessive 
caution from this very fact sometimes verges on 
what might almost be termed cowardice. 

The place where this raid occurred was at a point 
in the river called the "E'arrows," directly opposite 
the old winter-quarters ; and the high butte, around 
the base of which the Sioux swept with their cap- 
tured horses, was the one from which I had often 
"discovered" for buffalo with my Indian comrades. 



I 



CHAPTER XXXY. 

TROUBLE AHEAD — THE STEAMBOATS ATTACKED BY SIOUX — 
STRANGE PROCEEDINGS DECK-HANDS MASSACRED BUR- 
IAL — AVENGED — OLD FORT WILLIAM — FORT UNION. 

LEAVII^G Bonaparte and his companion to re- 
join their squaws, and trusting to their perfect 
knowledge of the country to make good their es- 
cape, the Robert Campbell continued her course up 
the river, and after rounding the point below Shell 
Creek, came in sight of the Shreveport wooding. 
As we drew near, a sudden commotion was appar- 
ent among her deck-hands, who rushed wildly on 
board ; when she backed out into the stream, and 
made for the other shore. We followed, as a matter 
of course, and both steamers were soon made fast 
alongside of a broad sandbar. We then learned 
that the Shreveport had stopped to wood ; and 
Dauphin, a well-known hunter on board, went out, 
as was his wont, to look for game. He had pro- 
ceeded but a short distance, when he discovered a 
large party of Sioux making their way through the 

(363) 



364 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

dense forest, towards the boat. He hurried back 
and gave the alarm ; the hawser was hastily cut, 
and the boat backed off as we have seen, though 
not a moment too soon. The rest of the afternoon 
was spent in piling sacks of flour on the boiler- 
deck, so as to make an efficient breastwork, and 
otherwise preparing for defence, as it seemed with- 
out doubt that an attack would be attempted every 
time a stoppage was made for wood. 

The next morning soon after sunrise, while run- 
ning close in shore, a shot was fired, and the ball 
passed through the pilot-house, narrowly missing 
Atkins, who was at the wheel. 

Later in the morning, Mrs. Culbertson's eagle-eye 
discovered objects crossing a ridge at a great dis- 
tance, which, before our glasses could be brought to 
bear, passed out of sight, leaving us in doubt 
whether they were elk or mounted Indians. But 
we were not suffered to remain long in uncertainty. 
Soon a numerous band of Indians appeared, head- 
ing in a direction to intercept our course, and rode 
along the bank, parallel with the boat. We counted 
over two hundred, as they appeared strung out in 
line, which did not seem to be much more than 
half the number. 

The Shreveport was some distance ahead, but on 
dicovering the Indians, dropped down, and both 



A LARGE WAR-PARTY. f365 

boats were made fast by a sandbar not far from the 
mouth of a creek called Tobacco Garden. 

The Sioux gathered on the river-bank protected 
and partially concealed by the thick forest of Cot- 
tonwood trees. 

There was not the slightest attempt at discipline 
on board of the Campbell. Every one seemed 
acting on his own responsibility, which, in the case 
of the few mountaineers on board, was decidedly 
the best possible policy, but highly questionable 
with the great majority of the passengers to whom 
Indian fighting was a new experience. 

The Indians called out for the whites to come 
ashore, and be killed ; that they wanted provisions, 
arms and ammunition ; that the whites were doers, 
and only fit to be killed. 

There were at least half a dozen on board who 
understood Sioux, besides Mrs. Culbertson, herself 
an Indian woman ; therefore there could be no 
possible misunderstanding as to their designs. 
Somebody suggested the plan of sending out a 
boat to bring several of the leading men on board, 
to " talk " with them, and as neither of the Indian 
Agents appeared to have any ideas of their own to 
advance, this extraordinarily senseless advice was 
acted upon. Meanwhile, the Indians gathered on 
the bank, shouting forth their defiance and taunts 



366 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

to the whites. All the passengers had taken posi- 
tion behind the breastwork of flour-sacks ; Jerry 
Millington, (who had formerly been a trader on the 
Platte,) Louis EUe, myself, and several other moun- 
taineers, were close together ; Col. Culbertson and 
his wife a short distance from us. 

Presently, to the unutterable surprise of nearly 
every one on board, a boat put off from the steamer, 
and headed for the bank upon which the Indians 
were gathered. To our greater surprise, the Agent, 
who should gladly have embraced this opportunity 
of ascertaining the views of his ^'red children," 
and inflicting upon them an edifying "talk," was 
not along. When the boat first left the steamer, 
Mrs. Culbertson called out to the hands, " Come 
back, come back! you'll all be killed;" but her 
remonstrance was unheeded or unheard. The men 
bent to their oars lustily, and neared the fatal shore. 
As the boat touched, the Indians crowded together 
in an ominous manner. Millington remarked to 
me, as we stood side by side, with our guns levelled, 
" There '11 be h 11 raised shortly." 

The Chief springs from the bank, and entering 
the boat, shakes hands cordially with the crew as 
he passes along. But in a moment a score of dusky 
forms leap after him. A puff' of white smoke — 
the gleaming of weapons — the falling of the 



ATTACK ON THE STEAMBOATS. 367 

slaughtered men, tell the tale. The fire is opened 
from both steamers, and kept up actively for several 
minutes. When the smoke clears away, we know 
by the hurried movement among the Indians that 
the fire has not been without efi*ect. 

Water would be hastily brought from the river, 
to allay the thirst of the wounded, and dead and 
struggling horses could be distinctly seen. The 
boat was drifting down stream, and a cry was raised 
that one man was clinging to the stern. Another boat, 
manned by willing hands, was soon in pursuit, and 
overtaking, returned with it and its melancholy 
load of gory corpses, which were carefully brought 
on board, shot and mangled in a horrible manner. 
Two only of the crew escaped : one, badly wounded, 
who by falling feigned death ; and the steersman, 
who with wonderful presence of mind threw him- 
self overboard, and clinging to the stern of the 
boat with one hand, supported himself as he floated 
down, until rescued. The prompt fire from the 
steamers covered his retreat. 

So reluctant were these unfortunate men to start 
on that fatal trip, that the mate was obliged to drive 
them into the yawl with an axe. He himself was 
afterwards killed in a street brawl in Cincinnati. 
The wounded man, as I learned the following year 
from Millingtou, contrary to all expectation, re- 
covered. 



368 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

Occasional shots were thrown into the point, and 
at last the Indians left, and halted upon the open 
bank, about half a mile below. They seemed to 
be taking care of their wounded, of whom they 
must have had quite a number ; but the small rifled 
cannon of the Shreveport sent its balls so close, that 
ere long a heavy cloud of dnst betokened their de- 
parture in the direction of their camp. 

The following day the dead were given a decent 
sepulture by the river's bank, and stones piled on 
their lonely graves to protect them from the wolves. 
The eight Indians murdered near Fort Eandall 
were avenged. 

Many ludicrous incidents occurred during the 
skirmish, but with few exceptions, all behaved with 
great coolness and steadiness. It was certa;inly a 
miracle that no one was injured on board, for a 
great many guns were discharged without their 
owners being always ready, but invariably with 
deadly effect, if their own statements could be de- 
pended on. A burly Irishman, who had taken 
position just behind Millington and myself, closed 
his eyes, and turning his head, discharged his re- 
volver with the firm conviction that he was materi- 
ally aiding to repulse the savages. Four of the six 
balls penetrated a sack of flour between us. We 
almost held our breath while this was going on, 
and Louis Elle, totally disregarding the Indians in 



I 



FORT UNION. 369 

front, attentively watched this fresh danger in the 
rear, and relieved his pent-up indignation after it 
was all over, by a volley of " sacr-r-res " at the ex- 
pense of the unfortunate Hibernian. 

The mouth of the Yellowstone was reached with- 
out any further adventures. Of old Fort William 
nothing was standing save a chimney or two, and 
portions of the crumbling adobe walls. 

Fort Union became the termination of the voyage, 
as the river had fallen too low to venture higher 
up, and the freight having all been landed and 
stored in the Fort, the steamers turned their bows 
homewards, and were soon out of sight. 

Mr. Hodgkiss (formerly in charge of Fort Clark) 
was now in command of this Post, and in the kind- 
est manner tendered all the hospitality and assist- 
ance in his power, to those passengers who were 
disappointed in getting to Fort Benton by steamer. 



CHAPTER XXXYI. 

FORT UNION AS IT WAS — SCENERY — A SOCIAL CIRCLE — 
DANGEROUS HUNTING-GROUNDS — GRIZZLY BEARS — IN- 
DIANS AROUND — HORSES STOLEN — IN A BAD PREDICA- 
MENT — AFOOT I 

FORT Union is built on a high gravelly bank, 
about six miles above the mouth of the Yel- 
lowstone. It was formerly, during the palmy days 
of the Fur Company, the great distributing Post 
for the Northwest, and in the spring of the year, 
when the Traders from the Crow and Blackfeet 
Indians would rendezvous with the proceeds of the 
winter's hunt, was the centre of the greatest bustle 
and activity. The wild mountaineers held high 
carnival, which reached its culmination upon the 
arrival of the annual steamboat, after which they 
took their departure for their respective Posts, with 
their supplies in Mackinaw boats drawn by the 
tedious cordelle, to enter anew upon their perilous 
calling. 

But these times have passed away. The gradual 

(370) 



FORT UNION AS IT WAS. 371 

approacli of civilization, the increasing ease with 
which steamers navigate the river, the competition 
of rival companies, have gradually changed the 
character of the trade. Fort Union, in 1863, was 
(and had been for several years past) simply a Post 
for the Assinniboine Indians, and as they are no- 
toriously poor robe-makers, its trade had fallen 
away very considerably. 

Enough men only were retained to take care of 
the Post, and the constant presence of Sioux war- 
parties rendered it impossible to keep stock of any 
kind, or even to venture out with safety. 

The Fort had been erected with great care and 
strength. The bastions were of stone, and the 
massive and substantial pickets were braced and 
secured in the strongest manner. The Bourgeois' 
house and offices, an ornamental two-storied build- 
ing, fronted on the large and spacious area. Around 
its hospitable board and on its balcony, during the 
pleasant summer evenings, was gathered a social 
circle. The Bourgeois, Mr. Hodgkiss, and his son 
William, (who had been educated in St. Louis by 
Father De Smet, and was now acting as clerk,) 
Col. Culbertson and his wife. Col. Vaughan, Jack 
Culbertson, and myself Stories of wild adventure, 
varied by songs from the ever-ready Col. Vaughan, 
beguiled the time, and it was late before we thought 



372 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

of retiring, leaving no one astir but the guard, as 
tie made his solitary rounds. 

The quarters assigned to me were in the bastion, 
which commanded a most extensive and delightful 
view. Below the Fort was a heavily wooded point, 
while above the large timber had been nearly all 
cut away for fuel and building materials. At my 
feet rolled the Missouri, — beyond, a growth of 
cottonwoods, walled in by high and steep bluifs. 
In another direction aline of trees marked the wind- 
ing course of the Yellowstone. A beautiful prairie 
stretched away to the rear, until it was lost at the 
base of a line of sloping hills. One of the loftiest 
of these was known as McKenzie's Butte, after the 
late Kenneth McKenzie of St. Louis, who ruled 
supreme at Fort Union in the early days of the Fur 
Company. 

From its summit the- smoke of the annual steam- 
boat could be seen nearly two days before she 
reached the Fort, as she wound her devious way up 
the river. The ruins of Fort William were in plain 
sight, and the mountaineers spoke regretfully of the 
good old times when both Posts were in the full 
tide of success, and of the hospitalities that were so 
freely exchanged between them when the trading 
season was over. At one time quite a herd of 
cows was kept here, and the luxury of fresh butter 



I 



PERILOUS HUNTING. 373 

was indulged in. A garden was also cultivated by 
the employes, and potatoes, melons, and vegetables 
generally were raised without difficulty, and in 
sufficient abundance to vary agreeably the regular 
diet of buffiilo-meat. 

But the attacks of the Sioux became more and 
more frequent, the remainder of the cattle were sent 
to Fort Benton, and the little garden abandoned 
and overscrown with weeds. 

Mr. Hodgkiss was a very agreeable companion, 
having been in this country many years. He first 
came up as clerk for Captain Bonneville, and was an 
active participant in many exciting scenes in early 
trapping-days, having been stationed at nearly every 
Post on the river. He was in charge of Fort Clark, 
at the Riccaree Village, when I came into the country 
in 1858. As there were no Indians encamped in the 
vicinity of the Fort, we were entirely dependent 
upon the hunters of the Post for fresh meat. This 
was a service of real danger, for we never knew, 
when they went forth in the morning, whether we 
should see them return again at night. Buffalo 
were usually found quite close, but as the prairies 
around had been burned by the Sioux, it was neces- 
sary to go some distance. 

John Wallace was the principal hunter since old 
Jose Eamisie had lost one of his hands by the burst- 
32 



374 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

ing of his gun. Previous to that accident, Jos^ waa 
one of the very best "runners" in that part of the 
country. Wallace was brave even to foolhardiness, 
and the following spring paid the penalty of his 
rashness with his life. 

He, Jack Culbertson, and myself, with a voyageur to 
drive the cart, made frequent hunting excursions, and 
always went out with the chances pretty even of 
falling in with Indians or buffalo. Yet sucli is the 
fascination of this kind of life that we preferred 
taking these chances occasionally, to being always 
confined to the Fort. On one of these expeditions, 
about eight miles from the Post, we passed by a pile 
of stones painted with vermilion, and surmounted 
by a bundle of arrows and a buffalo-skull, which 
had been erected by the Assinniboines as a land- 
mark. A short distance beyond, we fell in with 
buffalo. An indefinable sense of danger seemed 
common to us all. Jack and I carefully swept the 
country with our glasses to discover danger, while 
Wallace undertook to "approach." The buffalo 
seemed unaccountably wild, and after a vain attempt 
to get within range, he came back and expressed 
his fears that there were Indians about. We accord- 
ingly determined to give up the hunt for that day, 
and returned. When we struck the trail leading to 
the Fort, and came to the pile of stones before 



GRIZZLY BEAR. 375 

noticed, we found that our apprehensions had not 
proved groundless. The stones were scattered 
ahout, the skull thrown to one side, and the arrows 
broken and strewn around, showing conclusively 
that a war-party had passed by, and narrowly missed 
us. They might, or might not be close by. 'We 
moved on cautiously, and taking advantage of the 
country, succeeded in safely regaining the Post 
long after nightfall. 

It was perilous to go any distance, no matter how 
short, without being fully armed, and a guard was 
kept up night and day. Still, in spite of all this 
vi2:ilance, several of the men had hair-breadth 
escapes. 

The river was falling fast, and the broad sand- 
bars became daily more exposed, upon which the 
carcasses of bufialoes frequently lodged, offering a 
tempting bait to the grizzly bears, which were 
abundant in the points around the Yellowstone. 

On one occasion a huge grizzly ventured so close 
to the ''cut" bank below the Fort, that some half- 
dozen of us, seizing our rifles, approached, covered 
by the thick undergrowth, and the only intimation 
the monster had of our proximity was a discharge 
of w^eapons, which stretched him out at the first 
fire. Well it might, for the distance was only a 
few paces, and the thick bushes and steep bank 
<='.ffectually prevented him from seeing us. 



376 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 



The small band of horses, some seventeen head, 
were objects of constant solicitude. They were 
guarded by a couple of Indian boys, and were kept 
in the bottom not more than a quarter of a mile 
distant. It was only when they were safely corralled 
for the night that we felt as if they really belonged 
to "US. Two were my individual property, and I 
was anxious to get them in good order, preparatory 
to making a trip to Fort Benton and over the 
mountains. Jack Culbertson and Wallace intended 
accompanying me, and \^re likewise saving up 
their horses for the journey. 

The band had been driven up at noon to water, 
and the guards delayed unusually long in taking 
them back to pasture. Mr. Hodgkiss finally came 
from his ofiice, and after briefly expressing his 
opinion as to the impossibility of horses getting very 
fat upon gravel-stones, hurried the boys oft' with their 
charge. As they passed through the gates, Jack 
proposed to me to see how the feed was where the 
horses were kept, and throwing our rifles over our 
shoulders we sallied forth. We spent more than 
an hour with them, and felicitated ourselves upon 
the prospect of being able to start upon our con- 
templated journey in the course of two weeks. On 
our way back we set up an old buflfalo-skuU for a 
target, and amused ourselves for a while shooting 



HORSES stolen! 377 

at it; and then leisurely sauntering back to the 
Fort, betook ourselves to our respective quarters. 

In the course of an hour Jack came over to the 
bastion, and taking my spy-glass "discovered" 
a while. In answer to my inquiry, he replied that 
nearly all the horses were in sight quietly feeding. 
After some further conversation we spread our 
robes, and were soon indulging in a comfortable 
nap. 

For some time no traces of Indians had been 
noticed; all seemed lulled into a sense of security; 
and I Relieve that every man around the Fort had 
retired to enjoy the dolce far niente, leaving no one 
about, except some of the squaws, whose gossiping 
propensities and Indian restlessness kept them per- 
petually on the go. 

Suddenly a shrill cry from the women aroused 
all hands, w^ho rushed forth to see what new excite- 
ment they had succeeded in getting up on such 
short notice. 

The first objects that met our gaze were the two 
Indian boys running at full speed towards the Fort, 
stopping every few paces to wave their blankets 
over their heads. 

By this time the alarm had become general, and 
all were at the gates, instinctively feeling what had 
happened. " The Sioux have stolen the horses ! " 

32* 



878 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

In a few minutes the panting and frightened boys 
ran up, and breathlessly told their story. The 
horses had become a little scattered, and they had 
just gathered them together, when a number of 
naked Indians ran out of the bushes and drove the 
whole band off. One tall warrior told the boys 
that they did not wish to hurt them ; they might 
make their escape, but must run fast, as there were 
plenty of Sioux in the bushes. The boys did not 
stand an instant on the order of their going, but 
went at once, and with the utmost possible dispatch, 
arriving as narrated above. 

Here was an unlooked-for state of affairs; — afoot 
totally ; not a beast of burden left. Our trip to the 
Blackfeet must of necessity be abandoned for the 
present, and the loss of the animals would be seri- 
ously felt at the Post. 

In this dilemma, now that the horses were stolen, 
the next best thing was to lock the gates, which 
was accordingly done ; and this last bold foray of 
the Sioux wholly engrossed the conversation. 
After being thoroughly talked over, it was the 
universal opinion that they would take their de- 
parture, as there was nothing further to be gained ; 
and all we could do would be to await the develop- 
ment of events. 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 

CAUGHT NAPPING — THE FORT SURPRISED — NARROW ES- 
CAPE — GROS VENTRES OP THE PRAIRIE — ANNUITIES 

DEMANDED — INDIAN AGENTS — OBTAIN HORSES LEAVE 

THE INDIAN COUNTRY ARRIVE AT THE GOLD MINES OP 

MONTANA. 

NOIN'E slept the less soundly, and the guards 
reported the next morning that nothing had 
transpired on their watches. After breakfast, all 
recollection of the raid of the previous day seemed 
to have faded away, and the situation was tacitly 
accepted by everyone. Some of the men went to the 
lower point to cut firewood as usual ; Col. Culbert- 
son started for his customary walk out on the prairie, 
with his little son Joe, and the rest disposed of 
themselves as best suited their convenience. I 
retired to my favorite place in the bastion, and 
began cleaning my weapons, more for occupation 
than because they really needed it. My revolver 
first claimed my care, and having reloaded it, I took 
my gun apart, and after washing the barrels 

thoroughly, left them to dry. While waiting, I 

(379) 



380 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

reclined on my robe and revolved in my mind the 
chances of some Assinniboines making their appear- 
ance, and our being possibly able thereby to obtain 
more horses. It was the autumn of the year — the 
latter part of September — and flocks of wild fowl 
were flying south every day, so there was nothing 
strange or unusual in the sounds that saluted my 
ears. The little half-breed children were playing 
around the bastion, and as it was the most natural 
thing in the world for them to have a crying spell 
for some real or imaginary grief, I reclined on my 
robe, and freely indulged in speculations. But all 
at once it occurred to me that the wild fowl were 
very slow in passing over, and the children seemed 
to have taken to crying most lustily in chorus. In 
a half-hesitating manner I stepped out upon the 
gallery. What a sight met my gaze ! The whole 
sandbar seemed literally alive with naked savages, 
who, with bounding strides, were making directly 
for the Fort ! It was from them that the cry of the 
wild-fowl proceeded, and a most life-like imitation it 
was. It was their startling appearance that caused 
the little children to huddle in a frightened, crying 
group under the bastion. But there were human 
beings in a still more perilous situation ! The cook 
had gone out to the edge of the sandbar with a 
couple of large kettles, to get his usual supply of 



THE FORT ATTACKED. 381 

water for culinary purposes. His squaw accompanied 
him, carrying her small infant on her back, after 
the fashion of Indian women. They had reached 
the river, when a casual glance discovered the 
Sioux coming out of the upper point, and crawling 
under cover of the high bank, intending to surprise 
the Fort, which the unexpected appearance of the 
cook alone prevented. With piercing screams they 
turned to flee, but in spite of their utmost efforts 
the Sioux were rapidly gaining on them. The 
terrified children screamed in chorus, and stood 
paralyzed with fright. 

This was the position of affairs when I appeared 
on the gallery. Unfortunately my gun was not in 
order for service, but hastily snatching my revolver, 
I fired. 

From my elevation, and the hurried aim, the ball 
dropped a little, striking one of the Sioux on the 
leg, and inflicting a flesh-wound only. I rapidly 
discharged the remaining barrels at the Indians who 
were nearest the unfortunate fugitives. One brawny 
fellow had even raised his tomahawk to strike the 
woman, when my balls whistling close to his head, 
checked him in full career. The shots and outcries 
roused the men, who seizing their guns, rushed out 
and began firing away with a will. 

The instant they found themselves discovered, the 



382 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

Sioux retreated for the cover of the bank, and were 
soon safe, except a few who were compelled to run 
the gauntlet across the sandbar. The extraordinary 
leaps they took, alone saved their lives ; as it was, 
the balls whistled extremely close. One seemed to 
bear a charmed life, for he effected his escape not- 
withstanding a dozen shots were sent specially for 
him. 

The wood-choppers hearing the fray, came hurry- 
ing back in wild alarm, and when the particulars 
were fully known, the escape of all seemed miracu- 
lous. Godereau, the blacksmith, and another man 
had gone up in the point that very morning to 
hunt, and had not returned a great while before 
the attack was made. The Indians in ambush 
most probably saw them, but did not wish to dis- 
cover themselves, or run the risk of giving an 
alarm, when the opportunity of taking the Fort was 
before them. 

Old Jose Eamisie was off fishing, about midway 
between the Fort and the upper point, whence he 
was slowly returning. Passing up a small hollow, 
he happened to look behind, when he saw several 
Sioux stealing upon him. He ran as fast as he 
could, and when the firing from the bastion checked 
the enemy, he eluded the pursuit. 

The cook with his squaw and child had truly a 



ADDING INSULT TO INJURY. 383 

most narrow escape. A moment more, and they 
had been butchered, and the Indians once inside 
the Fort, would have had everything their own way. 
They had laid their plans well, and had nearly 
caught us napping, so confident were we that they 
had gone oflT after stealing our horses. 

By afternoon the Sioux crossed the river above, 
and soon after showed themselves on the heights 
opposite, though of course far out of reach. • They 
made the most taunting signals by flashing back 
the sun's rays from the small mirrors they carried 
suspended from their necks, to the luckless whites 
they had unhorsed. By the aid of a glass, we 
could easily recognize our own horses, and I had 
the sorry satisfaction of seeing a Sioux warrior most 
complacently bestriding my bonnie bay ; while Wal- 
lace's imprecations upon the race in general, when 
he beheld a brawny Indian on his favorite mule, 
would have been highly edifying under almost any 
other circumstances. 

The squaws in the Fort were greatly exercised by 
all these proceedings, and the one whose life I had 
so opportunely been instrumental in saving, pre- 
sented me with an elegantly garnished pair of moc- 
casins. In a few days everything quieted down as 
usual, and although no Indians showed themselves, 
still that was no reason why they might not be 



384 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

hovering around. We had no more horses for them 
to steal, and were unable to go off to hunt. 

This is only another instance to show the neces- 
sity of untiring vigilance in the Indian Country. 
Every person connected with the Post had more or 
less experience in Indian habits, and so sure did we 
feel that they had gone off, that the very next morning 
after our horses had been stolen, the gates of the 
Fort were opened as usual, and the men dispersed 
to their ordinary employments. 

During the whole of my residence in the West, 
both before and since, this was the only time that 
my weapons were not all in order for instant service. 
I had only emptied my gun to clean it, and was 
drying it when the attack was made, not more than 
an interval of twenty minutes. 

The Indians knew the moment they were dis- 
covered, that there was not the slightest chance for 
them to get inside the Fort ; but had they succeeded, 
no resistance, however desperate, would have been 
of the slightest avail. The whole affair was over 
in a few minutes, and as living in scenes of constant 
danger quickly becomes second nature, the excite- 
ment it caused soon subsided, and was regarded as 
rather a pleasant break in the monotony of the 
daily routine. Not long after these events, a large 
party of mounted Indians was discovered slowly 



ADILEMMA. 38 



r 



approaching. They proved to be Gros Ventres of 
the Prairie, (a band of Blackfeet,) under their cele-' 
brated chief the Femme-AssiL and had come a Ions: 
distance, through an enemy's countr}^, expressly to 
receive their annuities, which, consequent upon the 
faihire of the boat to get to Fort Benton, were 
stored in Fort Union. 

Being a friendly tribe, they were of course re- 
ceived inside the Fort; Col. Culbertson, and his 
wife Mrs. IN'o-ta-wis-ta Culbertson, were well known 
to them. The Gros Ventres,' it seems, only a few 
days before, while on their way, fell in with and 
defeated a large war-party of Sioux, who had doubt- 
less been hovering in the vicinity of the Yellowstone. 

The Agent for these Indians, the Eev. Mr. Reed, 

had returned on the Campbell, leaving the annuities 

here simply on storage. In this dilemma, what was 

to be done ? The Indians had come a long- distance, 

through a dangerous country, expressly to receive 

their annuities, and to refuse them would be to 

invite consequences which we were not prepared to 

meet. They had every right to expect to see the 

accredited Agent of the Government ; but that 

official had hurried back to the more peaceful 

scenes of civilized life. The Indians were bes^in- 

ning to be pressing in their demands, and finally 

Col. Vaughan drew up a paper to be forwarded to 
83 z 



386 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

the Department, detailing the state of the case, and 
the necessity of delivering the annuities, which was 
also signed by Col. Culbertson and myself. 

Mr. Hodgkiss then turned over the annuities to 
the Femme-Assit, who, aided by his chiefs, pro- 
ceeded to distribute them, without the stereotyped 
talk of their "Father;" upon which deliverance 
they might well be congratulated. We were fortu- 
nate in obtaining from them a few animals, to par- 
tially supply the places of those we had recently 
lost. 

This leaving the country and the Traders at the 
very time the services of an Indian Agent were 
most needed, requires no comment. 

Not long after this, I left the Yellowstone country 
for the Western slope of the Rocky Mountains, and 
the new gold-fields of Idaho, (now Montana.) No 
Indians were seen, until we fell in with a Crow 
camp on Milk River. These thieving vagabonds 
were very troublesome, and nothing prevented a 
serious difficulty but the proximity of the Femme- 
Assit's camp, some thirty miles higher up. Extri- 
cating ourselves from these fellows, we arrived 
safely at Fort Benton, and going on to Sun River, 
some sixty miles further, stopped with Malcolm 
Clark, to rest our horses a few days before crossing 
the mountains. The lofty peaks of the Rocky 



DEER LODGE — GOLD DIGGINGS. 387 

Mountains, majestic in their winter scenery, were 
passed. The temperature was delightful ; and shel- 
tered from the fierce winds of the bleak and open 
plains, it seemed as though we were approaching a 
more southern clime. Lingering, by pleasant streams 
filled with abundance of the finest trout, we reached 
the beautiful valley of the Deer Lodge. Then on 
again, until another spur of the Mountains is 
crossed; past the "Big Hole,'' where the river 
seems to have tunnelled itself a passage under the 
mountain, and the fertile valley of the Stinking 
"Water is spread out before our eyes. 

Ranches are dotted over its surface, and long ox- 
trains move slowly to and fro. Up the narrow 
Alder Gulch, until the cabins hastily erected here 
and there, and the piles of upturned earth, show 
that' at last we are among the Gold-Diggers. 



CHAPTEE XXXVIII. 

MINING CAMPS — "ROAD AGENTS" — A CONVIVIAL GATHER- 
ING — INNOCENT PASTIMES — THE CLIMAX — THE VIGI- 
LANCE COMMITTEE — THE FINALE — PROSPEROUS TIMES — 
SALT LAKE CITY. 

I]N" July, 1863, a few tents and brush shanties, 
scattered throughout Alder Gulch, marked the. 
beginning of a settlement. The magic touch of 
gold soon reared two bustling towns, with stores, 
saloons, and the usual accompaniments of " civili- 
zation." 

The first was IN'evada City, and one mile from it, 
higher up the gulch, another and larger place was 
fast springing up. It was at first decided to call 
this new settlement Verena^ after the wife of Jeff*. 
Davis, but more sensible counsels prevailed, and it 
was finally changed to Virginia City. As there 
was a bustling town of the same name in the Terri- 
tory (now State) of !N"evada, this was not the most 
judicious selection that could have been made. 

In the restless, eager population, the great ma- 

(388) 



CONVIVIAL GATHERING. 389 

joritj gathered from the frontiers, from Colorado, 
California, and Oregon, the '^ rough" element pre- 
dominated. Highway robberies were committed 
with alarming frequency; and one of the most for- 
midable bands of "Eoad Agents" ever organized 
made it a hazardous undertaking to leave the Terri- 
tory with gold dust, without being plundered, per- 
haps murdered. 

After dark, the respectable portion of the popu- 
lation remained indoors, leaving the roughs in un- 
disputed possession of the streets and saloons. 
These worthies had it all their own way, dis- 
charging pistols right and left with the most reck- 
less indifference. 

On one occasion, just before the culminating 
point was reached, the "Idaho Billiard Hall" was 
the scene of a "gay and infestive" gatherinof. 
Every passer-by was laid hold of and invited in to 
"take a drink;" and no excuses being available, 
complaisance was the only alternative. The ''fun" 
after a while took another turn, and waxed fast and 
furious. Pistols were discharged, glasses shivered, 
and a generous rivalry ensued as to who could dis- 
play the greatest accuracy in shooting a ball through 
his neighbor's hat without "raising a hair." The 
barkeeper, with pallid face and lips forced into a 
ghastly smile, waited upon his guests with well- 
33* 



390 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

simulated alacrity, as if he really enjoyed these 
Pandemonium revels ; and when a ^' tough cuss " 
requested him to " charge that ere, will you," never 
for an instant questioned his credit. 

While these festivities were in progress, business 
was of course paralyzed. The merchants devoutly 
wished that the ruffians might in this case emulate 
the praiseworthy example of the Kilkenny cats, 
and the "honest miners" shook their heads most 
ominously. At the theatre, (for even at that early 
day Thespis too had her votaries,) startling brawls 
were of frequent occurrence, and the click of the 
ready pistol was the signal for a tumultuous rush to 
the doors, and general scattering of the audience. 
So bold had these outlaws become in their un- 
checked excesses, that they planned a general pil- 
lage of every store in the place that was supposed 
to contain any amount of gold dust. 

Matters had reached such a pass that it was now 
simply a question whether order and decency should 
prevail, or the town be given up to the mercy of 
outlaws and desperadoes. A few of the leading 
men met together; the initiatory steps w^ere taken; 
and in December, 1863, the celebrated Vigilance 
Committee was fully organized, embracing among 
its members the stanchest and truest of the mer- 
chants and miners; for if the young Territory was 



VIGILANCE COMMITTEE. 391 

degraded by the presence of many who were the 
vilest refuse of the frontiers, she could proudly 
claim also many high-toned, honorable men, to 
whose self-sacrificing efforts alone is due the credit 
of reducing order out of chaos. The greatest care 
was taken in the selection and admission of mem- 
bers; and the proceedings of the Committee were 
always characterized by the coolest judgment and 
calmest deliberation. 

One evening shortly before the time selected for 
the general pillaging of the stores, there was an 
unusual gathering of roughs, and several disturb- 
ances occurred at the theatre. By the following 
morning every avenue leading from the town, and 
all the surrounding heights, were so guarded that it 
was impossible to pass unchallenged. Determined 
countenances appeared on the streets. Bands of 
armed men began to gather; from the Summit, 
from the Highlands, from Kevada they came, 
earnest and serious, for a grave duty lay before 
them. Business of every kind was suspended — 
the miners left the sluices — the gamblers the 
saloons. The roughs, with a vague feeling of un- 
easiness at this unexpected turn of affairs, became 
as gentle as lambs inquiring most innocently, — 
"What's up? — What's the matter?" Those 
who knew, said nothing ; those who did not, ap- 



392 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

peared apprehensive, and more than one individual, 
whose only error was ' in being ^' hail fellow well 
met " with everj^hody, kept closely within-doors, 
on the plea of "not feeling well" and "having 
taken a dose of physic recently." 

Directly squads of men start off to search certain 
houses, and in a short time return, dragging with 
them the objects of their hunt. 

Five have been secured, and are taken under 
strong guard to a store which has been selected as 
headquarters for this occasion. Their doom was 
sealed before they were arrested. Time is given 
these miserable wretches to prepare for the last 
great change. From a partially finished building, 
chosen as the place of execution, -Q.ve nooses are 
already hanging 

At last the sad procession moves, surrounded by 
a strong guard to prevent any possibility of rescue. 
The condemned are led to the gallows, and ^ve 
corpses are soon swinging, a terrible but just warn- 
ing to all. 

But the efforts of the Committee did not rest 
here. The country was scoured in every direction, 
some being pursued as far as Oregon before they 
were overtaken, and a long rope and short shrift 
was given to the ruffians and desperadoes. It was 
not however until after the execution of Henry 



PROSPEROUS TIMES. 393 

Plummer, who was filling tlie office of sheriff at 
Bannock City, and who was also at the same time the 
secret head of the organized band of robbers, that 
the citizens became fullj aware of the wide-spread 
danger that had threatened, and from which they had 
just escaped, solely through the exertions of the 
Vigilantes, to whom Montana owes a lastino; debt of 
gratitude. Order reigned supreme ; the streets be- 
came as quiet and safe as those in any old-settled 
country, and the carrying of deadly weapons, which 
had been the universal practice, was discouraged 
and discountenanced by the better class of citizens. 
In course of time, when civil law extended its 
sway, the Committee, without disbanding and with- 
out solicitation, gracefully yielded to the legal 
authorities. But red tape was too slow to grasp 
with the fast rising evil, and the Vigilantes, com- 
pelled to resume active operations, soon quelled the 
growing lawlessness. 

Buildings went up like magic. Alder Gulch was 
yielding its treasure in fabulous quantities, and the 
palmy days of the Golden State seemed to be re- 
vived. Everybody had money; everybody was 
rich ; a ragged miner would pour his gold from a 
plethoric sack, and bet at faro, well knowing that 
his rich claim would soon reimburse him for his 
losses. 



394 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

In February, 1864, I started for Salt Lake, with a 
party sufficiently strong to bid defiance to any Road 
Agents we might chance to meet, and after a toil- 
some journey of fourteen days arrived at the City 
of the Saints. 

Several of the party as well as animals suffered 
severely from snow-blindness, and in the whole dis- 
tance of nearly four hundred and fifty miles (by the 
then travelled route) there were but three ranches 
after leaving the mining "settlements." Our pro- 
visions became completely exhausted three days 
before we reached the Mormon settlements on Bear 
River. 

Late at night, after a most toilsome journey 
through the deep snow, we were greeted by the 
welcome sight of sparks flying from the chimneys. 

Our hardships were at an end, and before a blaz- 
ing fire, and around the well-spread board of a 
hospitable Mormon, we quickly forgot past trials, 
while our jaded animals regaled themselves with 
the unwonted luxuries of hay and oats. 



CHAPTER XXXIX. 

THE MORMONS — BRIGHAM YOUNG — A PROFITABLE RELIGION 

THE SALT LAKE HOUSE — GETTING OVER A DIFFICULTY 

— THE GENTILE CLUB — EVIDENCES OF INCREASING PROS- 
PERITY. 

TOO much praise cannot be awarded to the Mor- 
mons for the beautiful city they have reared 
upon a desert site. Twenty years ago the weary 
travellers halted, and determined that here they 
would establish a new home for themselves, one in 
which they hoped to remain in undisturbed seclu- 
sion. Among them w^ere artificers in the various 
trades, and year after year their settlement grew, 
until it became a city of goodly proportions. 

Adobe houses took the place of tents, and in 
course of time stores and dwellings of imposing 
dimensions were erected. As years rolled round, 
and the Northern mines began to yield up their 
golden treasure, the Gentiles found the more 
temperate climate of Utah, and the hospitalities of 
its saintly city, an agreeable change from the mo- 
notony of their own snow-bound land. 

(395) 



396 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

Brigham Young, with the keen forethought cha- 
racteristic of him, was quick to perceive the advan- 
tages that must ensue from this liberal expenditure 
of Gentile gold. With this end in view, the Presi- 
dency purchased the Salt Lake House, and sent 
Townsend, its former proprietor, on a three-yeai-s 
mission to England to obtain proselytes. The hotel 
was now in the hands of the " Church," and Fer- 
amorz Little, a son-in-law of the Prophet, installed 
as host. A comfortable homelike inn it was, with a 
table bountifully supplied with substantial cheer. 

But there was still a great deficiency, which how- 
ever was not long suffered to remain un supplied. 
The Mormon regulation against the sale of spiritu- 
ous liquors is very stringent, and it was only the 
initiated few who were able to procure their rations 
of ''valley tan," as the native distilled whiskey is 
called. But the Presidency soon cut this Gordian 
knot. As the hotel where the Gentiles most did 
congregate was now under the fostering care of the 
Church, why should not its revenue be increased by 
all possible expedients ? Did not the end justify 
the means ? A bar-room was accordingly opened, 
where, by appointment of the Prophet of the Church 
of Jesus Christ of Latter-Pay Saints, a Mormon bar- 
keeper dispensed "valley tan " and other spirituous 
compounds to thirsty Gentiles. Several years later, 



THE GENTILE CLUB. 397 

when, instead of a solitary stranger, the overland 
stages from the East and from California, and 
Idaho and Montana, rolled into Salt Lake, loaded 
with passengers, the Gentiles felt the need of a place 
of resort, where they could assemble entirely free 
from the restraints of Mormon espionage. An 
enterprising genius, in the winter of 1866, started a 
club-room, to which none but properly introduced 
Gentiles were admitted. American drinks were 
dispensed in American fashion, and the club was 
not suftered to languish for want of billiard and 
card tables. A " constitution " was adopted which 
all were expected to sign. The worthy proprietor 
or manager sat by the door, which he kept securely 
fastened, reconnoitring all comers through a small 
wicket, and admitting none but regularly qualified 
members. The Mormons were greatly exercised 
about this club, which was after all nothing but a 
social exchange where the Gentiles could meet and 
enjoy themselves without restraint. Outside it 
behooved them to be guarded in both words and 
actions, as the admirable Mormon police, undis- 
tinguishable by badge or uniform, were always 
hovering around, silent and watchful. 

The beautiful theatre, whose stage and appoint- 
ments will compare favorably with the opera-houses 

34 



898 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

of our Eastern cities, is also a religious institution, 
being under the fostering care of the Church. 

During my different visits to Salt Lake- 1 noticed 
each time indications of growing prosperity through- 
out the valley. The great increase of population in 
the [N'orthern mines opened up a new and remuner- 
ative outlet for their produce. Around their farms 
comforts greatly multiplied. Fabrics of Eastern 
make began to take the place of the coarse but 
serviceable homespun. The women in particular 
eagerly availed themselves of their increasing wealth 
to purchase suitable clothing, and comfortable petti- 
coats took the place of skirts made of coffee-sacks. 
The worn-out wagons that had conveyed their 
effects from the States years before, were thrown 
aside to be replaced by new ones, whose owner 
having disposed of his freight at the mines, was 
glad to sell his wagons and cattle before returning 
to the East for a new outfit. Thrift was every- 
where apparent. 



CHAPTER XL. 

APPEARANCE OP SALT LAKE CITY — COMMERCIAL ADVAN- 
TAGES — MORMON POETRY — GRAND TEMPLE — MORMON 
SERMONS — BRIGHAM YOUNG — GEO. A. SMITH — HEBER C 
KIMBALL — A SPECIMEN OP MORMON PREACHING. 

AT no time of the year does Salt Lake City 
appear to greater advantage than in the leafy 
month of June. On each side of the hroad ave- 
nues, bordered with rows of shade-trees, the crystal 
streams from the mountains flow through asequias 
to irrigate the gardens with their life-giving waters. 
Fruits and vegetables of every variety and the 
finest quality are raised in profusion. 

The blocks of splendid stone stores, and the 
elegant villas of the leading Mormons, are sure 
indications of increasing wealth and prosperity, and 
will compare favorably with those in any of our 
large Eastern cities. 

From its geographical position, its proximity to 
the gold regions of Idaho and Montana, and lying 
in the track of the Pacific Railroad, Salt Lake City 

(399) 



400 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

seems to combine all the requisites for a great com- 
mercial centre. 

The increasing influx of strangers, and the 

authority which it is to be hoped Government will 

exercise, must render Gentile life and property 

comparatively safe. The feeling against the Gentiles 

is very strong on the part of the men, while the 

women usually look upon them with especial favor, 

and seem to think the entire possession of one 

Gentile far preferable to a small and uncertain 

share of a Latter-Day Saint. The Patriarchs regard 

the purity of their harems with a jealous eye, and 

a strict watch is kept upon the movements of the 

women. 

A ditty, which had its origin about the time 
General Johnston's expedition was on its march to 
Utah, was extremely popular with the young men, 
who took particular pleasure in chanting it upon all 
occasions. It was set to a jingling tune, and the 
refrain of each verse was — 

" The Mormon question in the East is exciting great attention, 
The subject is, to say the least, too tough for their digestion." 

In which, I regret to say, there is more truth than 
poetry. 

The Tabernacle, in which the Saints at present 
worship, is an immense hall, with an organ at one 
end, and platform and reading-desk at the other. 



TABERNACLE — SERMONS. 401 

It will easily hold over three thousand persons. 
The men and women sit separately, and behave 
with great decorum, although a hearty laugh at 
some witticism from the pulpit (almost invariably 
at the expense of the Gentiles) is never considered 
out of order. The massive foundations of the 
Grand Temple are necessarily progressing slowly 
from the solid and substantial character of the 
work. It will stand, if ever completed, as one of 
the wonders of the nineteenth century. 

Truly original, and scarcely worthy of the name, 
the sermons are usually resumes of the doings of 
the Saints in diiFerent parts of the Territory, and 
of the recent travelling adventures of the Bishops, 
laying special stress upon the bountiful cheer, and 
always alluding to the banners, flags, and bands of 
music with which the people turned out to welcome 
those dignitaries. Vindictive allusions to the Gen- 
tiles, verging strongly on bufibonery and vulgarity, 
and scathing denunciations of apostasy, are always 
keenly relished. 

President Young occasionally delivers himself 
of the most extraordinary discourses; his disgusting 
and obscene tirade against the Mormon women 
wearing that ^^ Gentile abomination of hoops," will 
never be forgotten by those who heard it. 
34 * 2 A 



402 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

Bishop George A. Smith, a saint of ponderous 
dimensions, usually appeals to the people to "sup- 
port the priesthood, that everything depends upon 
them;" and his portly, well-fed appearance shows 
that these exhortations are not in vain. 

Heber C. Kimball, who ranks second only to 
Brigham Young, rarely allows a service to close 
without displaying his peculiar oratory. During 
the preceding exercises he is comfortably ensconced 
in an arm-chair, with his legs elevated in bar-room 
style upon the railing in front. A huge, red ban- 
danna handkerchief is in constant use, and when 
not actively employed in keeping off the flies, 
reverently covers his bald pate. The first time I 
had the pleasure of hearing him preach, he arose, 
a thin, spare man, dressed in decorous black, and 
taking a text, began his discourse in an orthodox 
style, and full of the same platitudes that have 
been uttered from time immemorial. I said to 
myself, "Is it possible that we are going to have an 
old-fashioned sermon after all?" when, with a 
defiant wave of the red bandanna, and without the 
slightest connection with his preceding remarks, 
he fairly shrieked out, "And they slew Joseph!" 
(alluding to the expulsion from Nauvoo,) and went 
on in a bitter and vindictive tirade against all Gen- 
tiles, working himself up into a perfect frenzy, as 



A MORMON "SERMON." 403 

one might suppose a howling dervish of the East 
would do. 

Such a storm of mingled irony, abuse, and black- 
guardism it has never been my lot to hear before, 
and yet this was the usual character of his sermons ! 

In the midst of his fiercest denunciations, several 
Mormons who occupied the bench in front of me, 
turned round with a triumphant look, as much as 
to say, "Them's our sentiments." 

After continuing in this strain for some twenty- 
five minutes, he concluded in a tone that sounded 
supernaturally calm when contrasted with his pre- 
vious shrieks, by saying, " I am a Yankee, thank 
God, but a Yankee of the good old sort ; not a 
Yankee Abolitionist, for a Yankee Abolitionist is 
the meanest of II 11. Amen." 

The prelate then sat down quite exhausted, as 
well he might be, and wiped away the perspiration 
that so copiously streamed down his face with the 
now glorious red bandanna. A hymn exceedingly 
well sung by the choir was followed by the bene- 
diction, and the vast congregation dispersed. 



CHAPTER XLI. 

THE PRESIDENCY ON THEIR TRAVELS — THE PROPHEt's BAR- 
BER—AN EVENING WITH PRESIDENTS YOUNG AND KIM- 
BALL— FUTURE OP MORMONISM— WHAT THE MORMONS 
HAVE DONE — THEY ARE ENTITLED TO GREAT PRAISE — 
OVERLAND STAGES —DRIVERS AND ATTACHES — COMFORTS 
OF HOME STATIONS — DRIVING MULES — CHAIN WHIPS — 
MUSTANG HORSES — WONDERFUL ENDURANCE OF A COLT. 

OK one of my journeys through the settlements 
I halted for the night at Ogden City, forty 
miles from Salt Lake. The only public-house in 
the place was kept by Bishop C. W. West, and a 
most excellent one it was too. Clean and comfort- 
able, with substantial cheer, it was not hard for the 
traveller to imagine himself in a pleasant village in 
one of the far-off Atlantic States. It so happened 
that Presidents Young and Kimball had just arrived 
with their retinue on a circular trip through a por- 
tion of the territory. The people turned out as 
usual to welcome them with flags, banners, and 
music. Highly gratified were the Presidency with 
the cordiality of their reception, while the people 

f404) 



THE prophet's BARBER. 405 

in their turn were profoundly impressed with the 
affkbility of the Prophet and the interest he mani- 
fested in their well-being. Pretty, quiet Ogden 
City was greatly excited by this distinguished visi- 
tation, and the yeomanry from the surrounding 
districts, in their holiday attire, thronged the streets 
and congregated on the corners, talking over the 
events of the day. The Prophet's barber (without 
which functionary he never travels) seemed to re- 
gard himself with peculiar complacency, and strutted 
around with swelling importance, treated by all 
with unbounded respect, and looked upon by many 
as holding a position but little short of First Coun- 
cillor and Confidential Adviser to the High Priest 
and Prophet of the " Church of Jesus Christ of 
Latter-Day Saints." 

During the evening both Brigham Young and 
Heber C. Kimball came into the general sitting- 
room and entered into conversation with those 
present. Heber remained some time after the 
Prophet had retired, talking in his characteristic 
style, and freely expressing his dislike at so many 
Gentiles having taken up their abode in Salt Lake. 
I replied that I thought the Mormons would be 
immensely benefited by the mining region north of 
them, and that for several years to come the miners 
would be in a great degree dependent upon the 



406 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

products of Utah for subsistence. "Yes," lie re- 
plied, he supposed they would have to supply them 
with breadstuffs, " and thank God they had enough 
for all." 

It was very evident, in spite of the pains he took 
to conceal it, that he viewed the constantly increas- 
ing travel through Utah, and the foothold the Gen- 
tiles were aiming to secure, with extreme solicitude. 

The crafty leaders of the Mormon community 
have good reason to entertain the liveliest appre- 
hensions for their future. Everything seems to 
tend to the speedy downfall of Mormonism, and 
that hitherto vexed question will ofler its own 
solution. 

If female suffrage ever extends to Utah, polygamy 
will certainly be disposed of in the briefest possible 
time. When Brigham Young dies, there is no one 
capable of exerting the rare administrative abilities 
he possesses in so eminent a degree. The whole 
fabric must fall to the ground. 

Some will doubtless emigrate to the Sandwich 
Islands, where they have founded a colony, in view 
probably of the time when Salt Lake will no longer 
be a refuge for them. Disaffections and dissensions 
among the leaders have already reached alarming 
proportions, and the first whistle of the locomotive 
in the Salt Lake Valley will sound the knell of 
Mormonism. 



OVERLAND STAGE. 407 

Their bitterest opponents must however concede 
tTiat too much credit cannot be awarded to the 
Mormons for having, by dint of stern perseverance 
and industry, overcome all difficulties and converted 
the desert into a fertile land; peopled it with a 
thrifty community, and reared cities and towns, the 
chief of which must at no distant day stand in the 
same rank as [N'ew York, St. Louis, and San Fran- 
cisco, embodiments of American enterprise. 

The journey in the overland stage is not now the 
formidable undertaking that it once was. The 
service has greatly improved, and the distance is 
being lessened every day by the rapid advance of 
the Pacific Railroad. 

A race of drivers and attaches grew up with it, 
whose exciting and dangerous calling became a 
second nature to them. Summer and winter, day 
and night, sunshine or shadow, reckless of danger, 
the "tough cusses," as these knights of the whip 
delighted to style themselves, were always ready for 
the road. 

The stock stations averaged about twelve miles, 
and at the end of every route, usually fifty miles, 
where the drivers were changed, the place was 
dignified with the appellation of " Home Station." 
Here the traveller would have an opportunity of 



408 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

getting a meal and paying a good round price for it 
too, which meal seldom consisted of anything more 
than bacon, bread and coffee. The teams on part of 
the road were very good ; but through the Bitter Creek 
country, a desert region abounding in sage brush, 
and alkali flats, mules were mostly used. These 
poor animals had a hard time of it, as the country 
afforded very limited supplies of hay, and the pit- 
tance of corn fed to them was just enough for a 
tantalizing reminder of the well-filled mangers of 
old Missouri. And for a good part of the way they 
did not even fare so well, but eked out a scanty 
living upon the sparsely scattered blades of grass. 

The question would very naturally arise as to 
how they contrived to make time with such forlorn 
teams. The mule-drivers have reduced it to a per- 
fect science. While the stock-tenders are harness- 
ing the team, the driver fills the front boot with a 
supply of small stones or " rocks," as they are techni- 
cally termed. The six mules are then attached; 
the driver gathers up the reins, and with a yell, off 
they start on a run, which soon settles down to a 
very sober trot. Kow the science of mule-driving 
is manifested. "With an accuracy only attained by 
long practice, Jehu throws stones at his leaders, 
rarely failing to hit them just exactly where he 
wants to, applies the whip vigorously to the 



CHAIN WHIPS — MUSTANGS. 409 

"smngs" or middle span, and then belabors the 
wheelers with a ehain-wMp, an instrument of torture 
composed of a short handle and a few links of chain 
for a lash. By the active exercise of these com- 
bined efforts the team is worried over the road at 
an astonishing pace. 

The driver of a mule-team on the Bitter Creek 
country felt highly promoted when transferred to 
another portion of the route, and a regularly fed 
string of horse stock was given him. 

The California half-breed horses are invaluable in 
all services where fleet and hardy animals are needed. 
-Lough and wiry, combining the endurance of the 
mustang with the size and strength of the American 
horse, and moreover easily kept, they form the 
only stage-teams in many parts of California, and 
will run over a ten or fifteen mile route where the 
same speed would completely use up larger and 
heavier stock. They have tempers of their own 
however and usually start off kicking, plunging,' 
and bucking. But once off, they keep up th^; 
speed without flagging. 

In the spring of 1866, I was bringing a band of 
mustang half-breeds from California. The Mallade 
R.ver was very high, and the usual ford impassable. 
After considerable diflSculty we got the horses over 
and were delayed a couple of hours longer, building 



410 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

a raft and crossing the saddles and baggage. While 
thus employed, a cold rain set in, and when ready 
to start, I found that one of the mares had dropped 
a foal. We drove on about ten miles further before 
encamping for the night, crossing several creeks 
breast-high for the horses, but which the little colt 
was obliged to swim. The next day he was as well 
as ever, and travelled on with sublime indifference 
to anything save the gratification of his keen little 
appetite. When we started I thought it would be 
impossible for him to keep up, and drew out my 
revolver to shoot him. Twice did I raise it, but 
the little fellow trotted on so cheerily that my heart 
failed me, and I returned it to the holster. From 
that time I resolved to take him through, thinking 
it would never do to destroy an animal of so much 
pluck. Little " Sage-brush," as I named him, 
swam every stream, flinched from nothing, and 
arrived in good order in Montana, a distance of 
three hundred miles, having travelled every day, 
from the time he was half an hour old ! 



CHAPTER XLII. 

PAST AND PRESENT CHANGES PALMY DAYS OF ALDER 

GULCH FORT BENTON FORT UNION — AMONG THE GROS 

VENTRES ONCE MORE — SAD CHANGES — FAREWELL TO THE 
INDIAN COUNTRY — DOWN THE RIVER — GLIMPSES OF CIV- 
ILIZATION — ARRIVAL AT ST. LOUIS END OF MY WAN- 
DERINGS. 

WHE:N'EVER gold has been discovered, the 
intermediate changes from the virgin wilder- 
ness to a settled country have succeeded each other 
with magical rapidity. It is not many years since 
California was almost unknown except in name. 
1^0 w she is regarded as an old settled State, self- 
supporting, and even exporting largely of her boun- 
teous harvests to supply the necessities of the Old 
World. All within a few years ! But of the early 
settlers in a new country, how few see their golden 
visions fully realized. The profusion of treasure — 
the reckless expenditure — the ever shifting, popula- 
tion, carry them along in their whirl. 

ItTowhere do these reflections appear more forcible 
than in Montana. This young territory, nestled as 
it were in the very he^rt of the Rocky Mountains, 
ill the shelter of whose grassy valleys the trapping 

(411) 



412 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

" brigades " loved to winter. Game abounded on 
every side ; the rippling streams were full of deli- 
cious trout, and the winter passed in happy seclusion, 
varied occasionally by an encounter with some 
predatory band of Indians. How eagerly would 
they await the arrival of the annual supplies trans- 
ported from St. Louis on pack-animals, at an ex- 
penditure of toil and hardship which the traveller 
of the present day by steam-car and mail-stage can 
scarcely realize. 

Throughout these "happy hunting-grounds," and 
on the sides of the snowy mountains, populous 
mining towns have arisen. The whistle of the 
steam-engine and the clangor of the quartz-mill are 
the sounds that now break the silence of the wilder- 
ness, instead of the whoop of the mountaineer, and 
the war-cry of the Indian. 

On many of the dimpled trout-streams saw-mills 
are located, and the fair and smiling valleys are 
dotted with ranches and herds of cattle, the first 
step to farm-houses and cultivated fields. 

No longer do the snow-clad barriers of the Rocky 
Mountains deter the traveller from attempting their 
passage in midwinter, and daily stages, with ranches 
every few miles, deprive the journey of its hardships. 
Stately steamers ply on the Columbia River, once 
navigated only by the barge of the Fur-traders, 



TRIP FOR TOURISTS. 413 

amid difficulties so graphically described by Lewis 
and Clark, and Irving in "Astoria," and Bonne- 
ville's "Far West." 

The Great Salt Lake, once regarded almost as a 
myth, is now the centre of a populous and thrifty 
community. In a few years, when the Pacific Rail- 
road will be completed, a tour to the magnificent 
domes of the Yo-Semite and the mysterious Falls 
of Snake River ought to be more popular than the 
hackneyed trip across the ocean to the old, old world, 
with its cities and scenes the same to-day as they 
were centuries ago.* 

Towns have sprung up in these new countries 
like magic — and have gone down as rapidly. Vir- 
ginia City and its twin sister, Nevada, during the 
summer of 1864, were the embodiments of prosper- 
ous mining camps. Few, if any, gulches in the 
whole history of gold-mining have ever proved richer 
than the famous Alder Gulch in its palmy days. 

The sluices " cleaned up" enormously, the miners 
were prodigal in their expenditure, all classes of 
trade flourished, and the saloons and dance-houses 
were crowded to overflowing. With the approach 
of winter this was changed. Mining was impracti- 
cable until the return of spring ; many left for the 
States and Salt Lake, and parties scattered forth in 
various directions to prospect. 

35* 



414 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

New placer diggings were found ; new towns 
sprang up, and the sparse population of the terri- 
tory was still further scattered. 

With the opening of spring, the miners anticipated 
another prosperous season. But the snows of 
winter lay heavily on the mountains at the head of 
Alder Gulch. The increasing power of the sun's 
rays melted them rapidly and swelled the creek to 
an impetuous torrent. Claims were filled up with 
gravel, and ruined in a single night. 

Piles of pay-dirt ready for the sluices were swept 
away and mingled with the debris of former seasons. 
The whole gulch from the summit to the mouth 
was one vast scene of ruin. Mines that had paid 
handsome returns were abandoned, as the expense 
of getting them in order was perhaps greater than 
the gold they contained. Thousands of miners were 
thus thrown out of employment, and went to the 
other gulches or prospected on their own account. 
jN'evada was almost wholly abandoned, — its deserted 
houses were gradually torn down for firewood, and 
the contrast from the former busy, driving season 
was sad to contemplate. 

The following year the same experience was 
repeated, spite of all efibrts to protect the few 
claims in working order, and the gulch was virtually 
abandoned. Virginia City, with its many large and 



FORT BENTON. 415 

handsome buildings, resembled a deserted village — 
the mines by which it was supported were ruined. 

But the surrounding mountains are rich in gold 
and silver quartz, and when skill and capital aid in 
their development, will doubtless yield abundantly. 



FortBenton, in the summer of 1866, was no longer 
the solitary Trading-Post in the very heart of the 
wilderness. The populous mining town of Helena 
was only a hundred and fifty miles distant ; ware- 
houses and stores, to accommodate the vast amount 
of freight constantly being landed here during the 
season of navigation, had been erected, and instead 
of the camps of Blackfeet Indians, large trains of 
freight-wagons were corralled, awaiting their turn 
to load. The American Fur Company had disposed 
of all their interest in the country, and the sun of 
the Fur Traders had set forever. 

Swiftly down-stream sped the steamer on which 

/ I had embarked, passing the wild and weird scenery 

for which the Upper Missouri is so justly celebrated. 

At Fort Union, where we landed for a few minutes 
only, there was very little apparent change, and 
some few of the old retainers were still about. 

The mouth of the Yellowstone was passed, and 
on the site of old Fort William soldiers were en- 
camped building a new Post, Fort Buford. 



416 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

Down the river, past familiar scenes, until the 
well-remembered village of the Minnetarees came 
in sight. Here the hand of change was most mani- 
fest. Soldiers were quartered in our old Fort, and 
the armed sentinel pacing before its closed gates, 
presented a strange contrast to the times when the 
Indians came and went as thej pleased 

During the short time we remained here I had the 
pleasure of greeting many of my former acquaint- 
ances. Pierre Garreau, Malnouri, and old Jeff 
Smith were still living where they had passed so 
many years. My Gros Ventre friends gathered 
around me asking a thousand questions, and were 
extremely solicitous for me to return to them again. 
Death had made many sad changes. The Four- 
Bears had been killed by a party of Sioux while 
bathing in the little creek about a mile back of the 
village. They made a sudden charge, and the 
high banks prevented his seeing them until they 
wore close upon him. True to his name and warrior- 
training, he fought desperately, and was slain almost 
in sight of his own lodge 

Doctor E-ten-ah-pen-ah was drowned while swim- 
ming the Missouri, in a vain attempt to escape from 
the enemy. The Raising-Heart, old Snakeskin, 
the Bobtail- Wolf and Bear-Hunter were also dead, 
and several of the younger warriors and squaws. 



FAREWJi]LL! — RETURN HOME. 417 

Many who had been my intimate associates were 
gone, and the Trading-Post was occupied by soldiers. 

The Indians, despondent about their future, com- 
plained bitterly of the increasing scarcity of buffalo 
and the number of their enemies. 

An hour slips by unheeded, but the hawsers are 
at length cast loose, and with a hurried shake of 
the hand I leap aboard. 

Farewell — perhaps forever. Until the bend of 
the river at last shuts out the elm-point, the stretch 
of prairie, the grazing bands of horses, do I stead- 
fastly fix my gaze on the well-remembered scene. 

Down, down the river. jN'ot a stick left of the 
once large and populous Riccaree village. The 
prairie, green and grassy, as if it had never afforded 
sustenance to hundreds of Indian horses. Of old Fort 
Pierre not a vestige could be seen. I^o skin lodges 
dotted the prairie, — no Indian squaw followed her 
warrior with a load of robes to trade,— no sio-n of 
life save a solitary raven, dark and dreary, flying 
ominously about. 

Down, down the river. The cabins of the settlers 
begin to appear. Fences and fields of corn — towns 
and villages— Omaha City with its Pacific Railroad, 
and at last the boat rounds to at the broad levee at 
St. Louis. The passengers scatter on their respec- 
tive ways, and my eight years of wandering in the 
West are ended. 2 b 



CHAPTEE XLIII. 

THE INDIAN QUESTION. 

« I beheld the westward marches 
Of the unknown, crowded nations. 
All the land was full of people, 
Restless, struggling, toiling, striving, 
Speaking many tongues, yet feeling 
But one heart-beat in their bosoms. 
In the woodlands rang their axes, 
Smoked their towns in all the valleys, 
Over all their lakes and rivers 
Rushed their great canoes of thunder. 

Then a darker, drearier vision 
Passed before me, vague and cloud-like: 
I beheld our nations scattered, 
All forgetful of my counsels. 
Weakened, warring with each other ; 
Saw the remnants of our people 
Sweeping westward wild and woful. 
Like the cloud-rack of a tempest, 
Like the withered leaves of autumn ! " 

THE unfortunate accident of having been born 
with a black skin, while it does not of itself 
imply the deficiency of human attributes, has never- 
theless been made a pretext for oppressing a race 
of fellow-beings, whose claims were unheeded 

(418) 



THE INDIAN QUESTION. 419 

until triumphantly vindicated by the result of a 
long and bloody civil war. Scarcely has the country 
begun to recover from the exhausting conflict, ere 
another race, whose kindred misfortune it is to 
have a red skin, demands aid and protection. Lin- 
eal descendants of the original possessors of the 
soil, instead of passively suffering under the lash 
of the taskmaster, they have dared defend their 
rights. Backwards, backwards have they been 
driven, until they now present the sublime spectacle 
of a people battling for their very existence, as it 
were, with the heroic energy of despair. 

For thus battling for his rights, the Indian has 
been called a "bloodthirsty savage," and interested 
parties, frontier squatters, and speculating contract- 
ors are doing their utmost to make good this im- 
pression. 

An Indian war of growing magnitude is devas- 
tating the border, and shocking outrages have been 
committed, but a careful investigation will show 
that the whites have so far taken the lead in '* blood- 
thirsty atrocities " of every kind. In what single 
instance has the Government carried out in good 
faith and to the letter the promises made through 
its accredited agents ? Has not even the Flag of 
that Government been stained with the blood of 
defenceless Indians, men, women, and children, who 



420 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

had voluntarily placed themselves under its pro- 
tecting folds, only to he cruelly murdered hy the 
monster Chivington ? 

Have the tortures inflicted hy the Indians upon 
their unfortunate captives ever equalled the refined 
cruelties and horrors practised upon the thousands of 
wretched prisoners in Andersonville and Salisbury 
hy the '^ chivalry " into whose hands they had fallen? 
It is notorious that in Texas, and later on our 
"Western frontiers, white men, viler than any red- 
skin, have assumed his dress and paint ; as also in 
Utah, where the Indian disguise has been frequently 
adopted hy the Mormon "Danites," or destroying 
Angels, to aid in carrying out foul designs of plun- 
der and murder. 

In all their dealings with the Government the 
Indians have been recognized as an independent 
people, over whom it had no control, beyond such 
as they chose to concede by treaty. Around every 
camp, and with every tribe, there are always men, 
either in their dotage, or else too lazy and worthless 
to have any standing whatever among their people. 
— With such worthies as these, (of whom I have 
given a fair description in the Dry-Pumpkin,) impor- 
tant treaties are often negotiated. Contemptible 
themselves, and envious of the leading spirits of 
their nation, this is the only course by which they 



THE INDIAN QUESTION. 421 

can hope to achieve distinction. How can it be 
expected that treaties thus concluded will be recog- 
nized by the principal chiefs, and regarded as bind- 
ing by the tribe at large ! 

And for some (perhaps imaginary) breach of faith, 
the stipulated annuities are frequently withheld in 
whole or part; for to defraud the Indians is too often 
regarded as a strictly Jegitimate business operation. 

From the actual commencement of these difficul- 
ties (as far back as 1853) the whites have invariably 
been the aggressors. Desperadoes in the early 
emigration across the plains deemed their record 
incomplete until they had killed an " Injin," heed- 
less of the consequences of their reckless acts. 

At the treaty of the Platte in 1855, General Har- 
ney on behalf of the Government stipulated that 
the white men should have the right of way only 
on the old California trail, and the navigation of 
the Missouri River. -The settlements in the new 
territories, the numerous roads that have been 
opened up, and the game wantonly destroyed, con- 
clusively show how this treaty has been kept. 

The Atlantic and Pacific States are rapidly ap- 
proaching each other. The various Indian nations 
are yearly becoming more and more crowded 
together, and in self-preservation, the first law of 
nature, they will make common cause against those 

36 



422 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

who are ruthlessly depriving them of all they hold 
dear. And after forbearance has long ceased to be 
a virtue, and the oppressed turn on the oppressor, 
the cry is raised, "Extermination ! " 

This experiment was tried in Florida, where a 
handful of Seminoles cost the government millions 
of dollars and many hundreds of valuable lives. 
An Indian war is too costly an amusement for the 
trifling results gained. So far the Indians have had 
decidedly the advantage from their perfect acquaint- 
ance with the country, and knowledge of the 
numbers and position of the pursuing troops, who, 
with enormous transportation, march hundreds of 
miles, and capture perhaps an abandoned camp of 
old, worn-out lodges, the former occupants of which 
are complacently hunting the bujffalo, or playing 
hide-and-seek in the neighboring hills. 

Such at least was the experience of one army, 
during a campaign carried on with all the pomp 
and panoply of glorious war, which culminated in 
the brilliant charge upon an abandoned Cheyenne 
camp. 

That campaign cost the Government, it is true, a 
million or so of dollars ; but what is a million or 
even millions of dollars in comparison with the 
important results gained — the complete destruction 
of those worn-out lodges ! 



THE INDIAN QUESTION. 423 

The Indians are well armed and equipped, and 
almost every warrior of standing is provided with a 
spy-glass, thus adding the assistance of the white 
man's art to his own matchless vision. Their tough 
and active ponies give them an advantage, too, over 
the heavily equipped and grain-fed chargers of the 
soldiers. In almost every instance in which troops 
have been sent against them to demand the return 
of stolen property, the force sent has been absurdly 
small. Defeat and disaster are the natural results 
of all such attempts to enforce demands, and a 
constantly increasing contempt for the power of the 
Government is fostered. 

An army officer * of many years' experience on 
the frontiers says: "Our little army, scattered as 
it has been over the vast area of our possessions, in 
small garrisons of one or two companies each, has 
seldom been in a situation to act successfully on the 
offensive against large numbers of these marauders, 
and has often been condemned to hold itself almost 
exclusively upon the defensive. 

"The morale of the troops must thereby necessarily 
be seriously impaired, and the confidence of the 
savages correspondingly augmented. The system 
of small garrisons has a tendency to disorganize the 



* General Randolph B. Marcy. 



424 AMONGTHE INDIANS. 

troops in proportion as tliey are scattered, and 
renders them correspondingly inefficient. The 
same results have been observed by the French 
army in Algeria, where, in 1845, their troops were, 
like ours, disseminated over a vast space, and broken 
up into small detachments, stationed in numerous 
intrenched posts. Upon the sudden appearance of 
Abd-el-Kader in the plain of Mitidja, they were 
defeated with serious losses, and were from day to 
day obliged to abandon these useless stations, with 
all the supplies they contained. A French writer, 
in discussing this subj ect, says : 

"*We have now abandoned the fatal idea of 
defending Algeria by small intrenched posts. In 
studying the character of the war, the nature of the 
men who are to oppose us, and of the countrj- in 
which we are to operate, we must be convinced of 
the danger in admitting any other system of fortifi- 
cation than that which is to receive our grand 
depots, our magazines, and to serve as places to 
recruit and rest our troops when exhausted by 
long expeditionary movements." 

'' ' These fortifications should be established in the 
midst of the centres of action, so as to command 
the principal routes, and serve as pivots to expedi- 
tionary columns. 

" 'We owe our success to a system of war which 



THE INDIAN QUESTION. 425 

has its proofs in twice changing our relations with 
the Arabs. This system consists altogether in the 
great mobility we have given to our troops. Instead 
of disseminating our soldiers with the vain hope of 
protecting our frontiers with a line of small posts, 
we have concentrated them, to have them at all 
times ready for emergencies, and since then the 
fortune of the Arabs has waned, and we have 
marched from victory to victory. 

" ' This system, which has thus far succeeded, 
ought to succeed always, and to conduct us, God 
willing, to the peaceful possession of the country.' " 

In thus briefly treating of the Indian Question, 
I do not wish it understood that, while desirous of 
seeing justice done them, I regard the Indians as 
possessed of those high and noble attributes 'with 
which romance has invested them. 

The Indians are only Indians; men of violent 
impulse for good and evil, who lead the life of their 
warrior ancestors in untrammelled freedom. Their 
wild nature and habits cannot be eradicated, but 
they may be improved. In the natural course of 
events, the tribes must retire before the advancing 
tide of emigration, but it is a serious question how 
we shall amend the present disgraceful condition of 
alFairs on the border. 

36* 



426 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

A war of extermination is a far more srieantic 
affair than we can manage, to say nothing of the 
stigma such an undertaking woulcf cast upon the 
Government in the eyes of the civilized world. 
Although such a war would be doubtless exceed- 
ingly profitable to a few interested parties, the 
nation at large, groaning under the burden of a 
heavy taxation, would hardly care to have that 
burden indefinitely increased, as it must be, should 
such a course be adopted, when the evil can be 
reached by less costly measures. 

Peace can be secured only by a strict and faithful 
adherence to the treaties which should be made. 
Whatever rights the Indians yield, should not be 
transgressed ; whatever rights Government guaran- 
tees them, should be faithfully secured. All treaty 
violations must be promptly and severely punished. 
Not by making new treaties, with perhaps only a 
partial representation from the offending tribe or 
tribes, and distributing as 2i peace-offering ^ arms and 
munitions of war, but by such a demonstration as 
would speedily convince them that the Government 
was a power not to be trifled with. And on the 
other hand, the military would be quite as neces- 
sary to keep the whites from trespassing against 
the Indiana, as the Indians against the whites. 

I see no reason why the condition of the Indians 



THE INDIAN QUESTION. 427 

should not be greatly ameliorated. I^ot by making 
treaties and extravagant promises, which would 
either be imperfectly kept, or wholly ignored; — 
nor could it be done in a day, or in a year either; 
the confidence so cruelly abused must be restored, 
and this would be of itself a work of time. It 
would be impossible to bring the roving Indians at 
once to the dull routine of civilized life. But thev 
may be persuaded to take the intermediate step; 
and in the course of time, being reconciled to a 
new mode of life, they may become a pastoral 
people. Furnish them with flocks and herds ; they 
could then travel as of old; their stock would in- 
crease on their hands, and they would not be wholly 
dependent upon game for their subsistence. Then 
in time they would, if fairly dealt with, appreciate 
the advantages to be derived. 

This experiment must be made on a liberal scale, 
and with an ample supply of stock, to command 
their respect and attention, and persevered in faith- 
fully, — not for a year or so only, but until the end 
has been accomplished. The money spent in 
waging war against them for one month, would go 
very far toward a successful experiment. 

Farms (I had almost written farces) have been 
nominally established among several of the Mis- 
souri tribes; but from bad management the Indians 



428 AMONG THE INDIANS. 

have received little if any benefit from them, and 
it is therefore unjust to brand the system as a 
failure. When they become necessary, let farms in 
reality as well as name be established, but not for 
the personal benefit of a few interested officials, to 
the exceeding detriment of the Indians. 

I consider the Gros Ventres, Rees, and Mandans 
the best fitted to commence with. They have a 
permanent village, raise corn, and regard the whites 
as their allies. They are ripe for the experiment. 
Protection against other nations would be neces- 
sary, and should be affi)rded. 

This Indian war, in spite of its many evils, has 
been productive of one good — it has drawn public 
attention to the many abuses connected with our 
present Indian wzsmanagement. 

As the affiliation of the two races is impossible, 
the extinction of the Indian is a question of time. 
But how much more worthy would it be of a 
powerful Government to extend every aid and pro- 
tection to the remnants of the original owners of 
the soil, until the Great Spirit calls them to their 
long home. 

THE END. 






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